Ortgies 32acp barrel bulge.

[bigdan420us]

I resently aquired an old German ortgies 32acp that was locked up in the open position. I have enclosed a picture of the barrel. Any ideas on repair?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180112/2bb406aa168f95a394db518db2f9a6b1.jpg

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[dubber123]

Easiest would be to see if Numrich/Gunparts corp or another has a replacement barrel, or it would be possible to build a tool with rollers to physically iron out the bulge, assuming of course there are no splits in the bulged area. I heard of a fellow who was a machinist, and simply turned the bulge off on a 1911 barrel just to try it. He claimed it shot just the same as before.

[Texas by God]

Try taking the cutting blade out of a good set of tubing cutters and roll and squeeze carefully. It might help to drive a long .30 cal cast bullet down the barrel for support. Just a thought.

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[John Taylor]

Gun parts is out of the 32ACP barrel but they do have a 25. I have seen a few guns that shoot OK with a bulge, you could turn the barrel down over this area. Or have a new barrel made.

[waksupi]

I know a guy who used an anvil and ball peen hammer to fix a bulge. Darned thing shot just as good as it ever did.

[bigdan420us]

Gun parts is out of the 32ACP barrel but they do have a 25. I have seen a few guns that shoot OK with a bulge, you could turn the barrel down over this area. Or have a new barrel made.I was wondering if a gunsmith might cut off the old barrel about flush with the chamber. Then drill and tap .500x28ef seating new barrel at the end of the firing chamber.

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[dubber123]

I was wondering if a gunsmith might cut off the old barrel about flush with the chamber. Then drill and tap .500x28ef seating new barrel at the end of the firing chamber.

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John is probably the man for the job :)

[Petrol & Powder]

Try taking the cutting blade out of a good set of tubing cutters and roll and squeeze carefully. It might help to drive a long .30 cal cast bullet down the barrel for support. Just a thought.

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Not a bad idea. I wonder if squeezing that displaced metal back down would make the barrel longer? Not saying it wouldn't work, just curious if it would lengthen the assembly.

Some Browning Hi-Powers had two piece barrels that had the barrel tube silver soldered into the breach section. It was cheaper to build them that way and they held up just fine. Maybe the barrel could be cut off of this one and the breach section reamed out to accept a new barrel with a reduced shank on the breach end? Not sure if it would work but not much to lose at this point.

[john.k]

Make a pair of swage blocks and press the bulge back into place.......guys do this kind of thing all the time on motorbike forks

[texassako]

There is a barrel on gunbroker. I would get it as backup to one of these solutions. If you get the original barrel shooting well, just resell it.

[LAGS]

I have replaced bad barrels on several pistols by cutting off the barrel , then machining it out to fit a replacement barrel with the shank of the new barrel turned down slightly. ( no need for threading )
Old Lugers were done that way when you couldn't find barrels.The barrels were simply silver soldered into the original Barrel Boss and then rechambered.
And if there was enough meet on the barrel and boss, a cross pin can be added.
But if you make a Mandral to fit the inside of the barrel, and you place it in a lathe, the bulge could be Rolled out.
But the strength of the barrel may be in question after it is done, But if you do a chamber or full barrel cast afterwords, you can see if the rifling is effected.

[Outpost75]

Might want to check the OD of a piece of .32-20 barrel liner, you may be able to use the old barrel for a monobloc and just sleeve it. Or do a stub refit with a turned down piece of .303 or .30 cal. rifle barrel. I have a 10-inch twist .32 ACP done with a chunk of .30 cal. rifle barrel which shoots wonderfully and is more accurate than was the original pistol.

If you don't have a .32 ACP reamer you can use the front of a .30 M1 carbine reamer stopped short.

[John Taylor]

One of the barrels is new made 30 Luger to replace a 9mm

211891

[bigdan420us]

One of the barrels is new made 30 Luger to replace a 9mm

211891Did you make this new barrel?

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[Outpost75]

Expect he did. John has done several for me, including this James Bond Bunny Gun rig:

211926211927211928

[skeettx]

Currently two on a non-specified auction site

John Taylor
I have a Star Super A in 9mm Largo
are you making barrels in 9mm Luger for these guns?

Thank you
Mike

[John Taylor]

Did you make this new barrel?

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Yes. First one like it that I have done.

[Mgderf]

O.P. I just happen to own one of those old Ortgies .32acp's.
It is not in the best of shape overall, but the barrel is in great shape.
Grips are cracked/broken, I can't even remember without digging it out.
One magazine.

Give me a pm if interested.
I don't want much for it.

[John Taylor]

Currently two on a non-specified auction site

John Taylor
I have a Star Super A in 9mm Largo
are you making barrels in 9mm Luger for these guns?

Thank you
Mike

Have not done one yet.

[LAGS]

Many years back , i came across a bunch of Astra 9mm Largos for dirt cheap in almost new condition.
I converted them to 9 mm Luger by making a spacer to fit the front of the chamber, then reamed the chamber to 9x19
Most of the inserts were simply pressed into the front of the chamber with a press fit.
Others I did by sweat soldering in place.
The press fit seemed to hold up just as wall as the soldered ones.
IMO, there is no need to get a New Barrel to convert 9mm Largo to 9x19

[bigdan420us]

O.P. I just happen to own one of those old Ortgies .32acp's.
It is not in the best of shape overall, but the barrel is in great shape.
Grips are cracked/broken, I can't even remember without digging it out.
One magazine.

Give me a pm if interested.
I don't want much for it.Hello Mgderf, I am interested in the spare parts gun you have. How much are you asking for it.

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[partsproduction]

Make a ring die in the lathe out of medium steel, with tapered entry, so that it is a .001" interferance fit. Lube it up with Moly Z Kote and press the barrel into to it, it will swage the bulge down.

This is a lot easier said than done, because when you have it all the way down the barrel as far as it can be pushed you'll have to press it back off. That means, to me, making at least 2 driver rods, one for the chamber and the other to drive from the muzzle.
This all means having patience looking for a barrel for sale, it would save way more money if you value your time.
Another thing, if you know someone with a CNC lathe with a hydraulic drawbar, find a collet that just slides over the unbulged section of the barrel, put that in the lathe and turn the collet pressure as far down as it can go and squeeze it, if it doesn't move increase the pressure, etc, etc. The operator should know his lathe well enough to know if it will squeeze TOO hard, in which case you'd have to make a close fit plug that would stop it from squeezing down too far.
Again, CNC time being what it is you'd be better off waiting for a replacement barrel.

I'd say look in gun broker but I can't figure out their new search engine. They say you have to read a tutorial to use it, to me it was perfect before, why fix it if it ain't broke? But if you know how to use it you may find one there.

[Mgderf]

Hello Mgderf, I am interested in the spare parts gun you have. How much are you asking for it.

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Pm sent.

[2152hq]

Lathe turn, or simply carefully hand file the bulge from the outer surface of the bbl.
The pistol will function then just fine.
A 'ring' will still appear in the bore at the damaged point, but won't make much difference if at all in the accuracy of the pistol.
It's not like you're taking it along to Camp Perry this year I'm guessing.
At plinking and beer can range,,it'll do just fine.
If you really want to by-pass any ring in the bore effects you can counter-bore the bbl down to that point to establish a new crown down in there before the damage.

Cost??,,about nothing.

If and when you find another bbl you can decide if you want to put the money into it.

Just my thoughts.

[KCSO]

No anvil and ball peen. We take a bore dia rod and a hydraulic press and press out the bulge as you will play heck finding a barrel. When done they don't shoot too bad either.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I wouldn't just hammer down the bulge. Whatever you do needs to be, like the schoolboy definition of a circle, something that is round, all round. I'd make a die to fit the intended diameter, lubricate well and size it down with a mallet. If you feel happier whacking the muzzle than the breech, you could make the die in two halves and hold it together in a vice.

Just reducing the outside bulge and leaving the bore the way it is may work fine. It sometimes does in a rifle, and this is a much lower pressure firearm, which may usually be used with jacketed bullets. The trouble is, what do you if it doesn't, squeeze the formerly bulged part down to a smaller size than the rest? If you do want to remove the outside bulge, a lathe collet would be best for the extreme concentricity required. True it with a dial gauge some way from the chuck jaws, in case it is bent too. Actually I think you could do a pretty good job with a wide, flat file.

Lining or sleeving a new barrel into the rear, non-circular part are probably possible, although I can't see the thickness you have to work with. I believe I would prefer the monobloc job. It could be that the hole in the front of the slide has been deformed in getting barrel out, and a marginally larger diameter barrel might be a better fit in a trued up hole.

I don't much like the step at the front of a sleeved in barrel, so I would trawl my white elephant collection for tapered reamers, and try to find one that would leave a very slight step there, and more metal in the "monobloc" at its rear end. Or alternatively (for a different sort of advantages) taper it in the opposite direction, with no step at all, and the taper stopping the barrel from being spat out.

That is apart from the solder, of course. For such a short engagement I believe I would prefer silver solder, like Brownells 355 thin ribbon, to either soft solder or Loctite. There is some possibility that contraction of steel that hot would tighten the bore slightly, and I don't believe the .32SCP throat would extend far enough forward to eliminate that. But it nearly does, and lapping could make that quarter-inch or so uniform with the rest of the bore. Or just ream a short bullet-diameter freebore to extend beyond the constricted part. What is good enough for Weatherby rifles is good enough for this gun.