Discovered the value of double molds relative to 6 cavity molds

[Ironduke]

I was casting for the first time in months last weekend. I was using Lee molds I got for Christmas. One mold is a two holer that makes 440 gr WFNGC for the 500 Smith & Wesson. It started dropping nice bullets after 4 or 5 cycles. It got hot enough to start dropping frosted bullets, so I rotated to the 6 hole Lee 300 gr WFNGC .452 for my 454 Casull.

This mold is a beating to use. Getting good bullets to drop from it was a chore and took a long time. That's when it occurred to me that getting consistent heat in a long, multi-cavity mold is the challenge. Still, I admit that when it started dropping good bullets it dropped 6 at a time, so that helps make up for lost time getting it running smooth. But I can't deny that the 2 cavity mold is just easier to get good bullets from.

In fact, it was no problem rotating back to the .501 mold and getting good bullets out of it after it had cooled back down some. Meanwhile when I rotated back to the 6 cavity .452, it took a few cycles to get it running again.

The value of the 2 cavity mold is that they are just easier to use. At least that's my experience.

[earlmck]

Wow! You musta' been in a really really cold spot if a 6-cavity Lee throwing 300 grain boolits took very many throws to warm up. I cast in a cool garage and my 6-cavity Lee warms up in 4 or 5 throws using a 52 grain 22 boolit. When I cast the bigger boolits with 6-cavity I always thought they warmed up very quickly, especially compared to anything in iron. I do set them on the top of the pot to get nicely warm as the lead melts.

I'm wondering if maybe that 6-cavity just wasn't broke in good yet?

[therealhitman]

A hot plate fixes everything.

[fcvan]

The old timers using Hensley and Gibbs 10 cavity molds, and ladle pouring showed some stamina for sure. The steel molds were laid across the pot and warmed up along with the lead which had to speed things up. But ladle pouring a 10 banger? big ladle

[Guesser]

I have settled on DC and SC as moulds of choice for me. I tried a 4C for a while, couldn't learn to like it, made good bullets but it was tiring, The thing I like about SC molds is the simple fact that every bullet is the same; for some unknown, unfathomable reason that seems to matter to me.

[farmerjim]

A hot plate fixes everything.

Good boolits from a 6 banger the first cast.

[Boolit_Head]

I found I have to use a bit hotter melt to keep the temps of on some of my brass 4/5/6 hole molds.

[472x1B/A]

A hot plate fixes everything.

^^^^^^ It's amazing what a $10.00 investment can make. ^^^^^

[lightman]

Over the years I have settled on a 4 cavity as my favorite size. I have some 2 cavity molds that make good bullets but I usually want something faster. I even thought about buying 2 cavity molds in pairs and running them together. The 6 and 8 cavity molds that I have used tire me out more than I like. For now I'm handling the 4 cavity molds pretty well. And yes, a cheap hot plate helps with any mold!

[gwpercle]

The old timers using Hensley and Gibbs 10 cavity molds, and ladle pouring showed some stamina for sure. The steel molds were laid across the pot and warmed up along with the lead which had to speed things up. But ladle pouring a 10 banger? big ladle

And some serious hand and arm strength.
I find a 4 cavity aluminum mould is my limit now......Three cavities are my preferred number.

[quail4jake]

La plata de calor es muy facil! Esta usando un termometro para molde?:popcorn:

[Chris]

I thought that all the stuff I read about how bad Lee molds were was hogwash until I cast with a 2 cavity iron mold. It was so much easier to use. I got rid of all my Lee molds. I still have some Aluminum molds made by others, but they are quality stuff that needed no help before casting.

[farmerjim]

I like the 6 cavity aluminum molds. I have a bunch of 4 cavity iron molds from way back, but I find them too heavy. For my heavy use boolits I use 2 6 cavity molds at the same time. I can get about 800 boolits an hour. 6 boolits every 27 seconds.

[largom]

Had one 6 cavity mold. Cast with it once. Sold it immediately! Single and double cavity is all I own now.

[high standard 40]

I have molds in single, double, and six cavity configurations. The intended use of the bullets determines which I use. For my semi auto handguns, I use 6 cavity molds and I'm pleased with the results. For my silhouette competition loads I do use a double cavity iron mold but I only use a single cavity in it because on that particular mold, the two cavities differ more than I care for. It really depends what your requirements are. In the long run, use what makes you happy.

[LenH]

I have one 6 cavity Lee mold and could never get it to work just right until I got a hot plate. That took care of the problems.

I have double cavity older Lyman molds, 3, 4, 5, 6 & 8 cavity molds. The H & G molds I have are 4, 6 & 8 cavity. The 6 & 8 cavity molds are beast and if it wasn't for
a mold shelf under the pot I don't think I could cast with them very long. But they do make a big pile of bullets in short order.

[Harter66]

Mark me down .
If I'm casting for best bullets I have no issue with a good single but I do find them tedious if I need very many of a particular bullet like a 454424 for example no point running a Lyman single when 4 rifles and 3 pistols don't know the difference between it and the NOE 5C and I easily quad the output . The same goes for the several other Lee 6 cavity moulds on the bench . Some bullets are so uncommon as far as availability goes that what you can get is what you get . If I can pour 100 pours and get 400 keepers in a 5-6 C I'm a happy camper . I hate making 100 pours for 60-80 bullets .
However , I do have a 4C Lyman 25 cal that is a PITA it takes forever to get hot , my best run is about 55% . I preheat , rest on the pot , over pour every pour , and have to go back to the plate every 10-15 pours . It's no wonder the last guy never got it fully blued ........ Wait I don't have it full blue yet .......
Actually I don't think the last guy ever used it . Nevermind those clamshell handles , yuk . But for the 25s and 6.5s the choices are limited so I snag a single and when a cheap 4 C comes up I snag that too .

[marek313]

I dont have a problem working with 2 cavity steel molds but for volume shooting you cant beat Lee 6 cavity aluminum molds. They heat up quicker then steel and cool of quicker as well. If you get your alloy temp right you can find that sweet spot where you just keep casting. I prefer 6 cavity aluminum molds to any steel as its easier to store and those dont need any rust protection. Since all my stuff is in my basement i have to watch steel molds to make sure they dont rust. I havent used any bronze molds yet but I want to try one just to compare. My new Lee 358-158-RF should be here in couple days and the only reason I ordered it is because It takes too long to cast bunch of .358 SWCs with my 2 cavity lyman. There is a big difference in production rate between 2 cavity and 6 cavity molds. 1 or 2 cavity molds are great if you want to try a bullet profile or if its for a rifle you dont shoot that much but for handguns I want at least 4 cavity molds.

[BHuij]

I usually let my 6-cavs sit on top of the pot while it heats up, and then the first few pours sit in the mold a little longer after I break the sprue but before I open the blocks to release the boolits. Seems to cast keepers after 2 or 3 cycles for me. I have a harder time keeping the mold cool enough not to tear out chunks from my bases when I break the sprue (WW alloy). Find myself consistently turning the dial down as the pot gets closer to empty.

[parkerhale1200]

My personal first choice is rcbs for production, quality and accurate.
In summer time I work with 3, 2 cavities rcbs molds at the same time(223 not included, to light)
For precision shooting, I use some lbt 4 cav alu, I must say...very good. But with lbt I work with one mold at the time.
Aldo some look the same (rcbs/lbt) lbt has an advantage over the rcbs, a full 0.3-0.5 inch on the target on 100 yards, smaller group size!
Yes same alloy temp ect, fiddling around to get the gunpowder good ect, rcbs does not give me that 0,5 extra, for the match.
Lee, sorry, I dont want to insult, but I got rid of them, I can not work nor cast with them.
Lyman.......poor grouping.
Palmetto molds, light in weight, made of some sort of iron, very quick on temp AND stable on temp, they are perfect for action shooting.
Rcbs stays very good on temp also, very steady.
This works for me.
Seaco and Mountain molds I havent tried them yet, just like an "Elvis" mold, they are sounding very good, and are next in line to buy.

I also let my mold rest on the edge of my pot while filling, when full i put it aside and take the next one in line, drop in the bucket, on the edge, fill, back in line, take next, drop in bucket.....geeee it take longer to write it down then to cast.
I have almost no rejects after the first 10 cycle to warm up the mold.
After the first 50-100 cycles dunked into the first bucket, I move over and dunk them into the second bucket.(to make sure of same temp=bhn)

With speed, when i am in the rhythm, I dont want to brag, but I think 8 casts(4x 2 cav molds), under 30 seconds, with three rcbs 2 cav molds, I will get back on this.
With the next casting session, I will let my wife time, I am curios

With best regards Parker Hale

[gwpercle]

La plata de calor es muy facil! Esta usando un termometro para molde?:popcorn:
Don't be talking dirty !

[uncrichie]

I'll be getting my first Lee 6 cavity mold in about two weeks. I see several of you guys mentioned the use of a hot plate to bring the mold up to temp. What kind of hot plates are you using? Thanks, Kurt

[fecmech]

Another way to preheat the mold and it's free! Simply place the mold across the top of your lead pot. With some aluminum foil make a small tent over the mold and top of pot. Turn the pot on max, go get some coffee, come back in 20-25 minutes and start casting. You will have good bullets within 2-3 pours at most. Pot heats quicker and you're heating the mold at the same time. Been doing that for at least 30 years.

[Harter66]

I'll be getting my first Lee 6 cavity mold in about two weeks. I see several of you guys mentioned the use of a hot plate to bring the mold up to temp. What kind of hot plates are you using? Thanks, Kurt

The $1 plate at the yard sale .
I have a cast iron kettle plate on mine but a used up saw blade or similar plate will do fine .
Obviously an open coil vs a induction type .

[asmith80]

I'll be getting my first Lee 6 cavity mold in about two weeks. I see several of you guys mentioned the use of a hot plate to bring the mold up to temp. What kind of hot plates are you using? Thanks, Kurt

This past summer we had some work done to the kitchen and were going to be without a stove for a few days. I bought whatever was the cheapest hot plate at Wal-mart (I think $10). When the kitchen was done the wife didn't even notice that I stole the hot plate and took it down to the basement for casting.

[uncrichie]

Ahh, ok, the open coil type. I had to ask, there are just too many types out there today. Thanks everyone.

[Mike W1]

Ahh, ok, the open coil type. I had to ask, there are just too many types out there today. Thanks everyone.

Mines a 1000W closed coil unit that I still covered with a piece of 1/4" aluminum. Partly for better contact and I also use it to mount a thermocouple so it's PID controlled. In the past I had used a home made warming shelf. Highest temperature I ever recorded was about 300° of the shelf not mould temperature. With the hot plate/PID set at 390° my mould temperature is about 315° by the time the pots reached it's operating temperature and the FIRST bullets out of the cavity are good both by appearance and weight. The shelf helped but the hot plate is superior.