Any pre-turbo 7.3 diesel mechanics out there?

[Hannibal]

I have a '92 Ford 4x4 with a 7.3 diesel. This is an OLD 7.3. Has a sticker on the valve cover from International and the engine paint is gray. No turbo. I've owned it for 15 years and had very little trouble with it. It sits quite a bit, so I start it and drive it one day every 3 weeks or so. It's been -0- or below overnight most every night for a couple of weeks. Plugged the truck in this morning and let it warm for 4 hours. Let the glow plugs warm 2x, hit the starter and it fired right off. Ran for about 2 seconds and shut-down like I'd turned the key off. Now it won't restart.

I have verified that the glow plugs are working. Removed the bottom cover on the fuel filter. No trace of ice and the fuel looks great, no sign of gelling at all. I use Power Service year round and change the filter regularly. I've never had a fuel problem. As I crank the engine, I see no smoke from the exhaust at all. I'm thinking there is a fuel delivery problem.

I have a Haynes Diesel service manual I bought when I bought the truck, but as usual it's long on 'fluff' and short on specific details.

The Haynes manual speaks of a low pressure fuel transfer pump, but doesn't mention where it is located on the truck, or if it is mechanical or electric. I presume the prior, but I don't know. Does anybody know if there is, in fact, a low pressure fuel transfer pump? If so, where is it and how should I go about testing it?

I believe later model turbo diesel information will not be of any help to me.

Thanks for looking, and I'd appreciate any help someone 'in the know' would offer.

[rancher1913]

If you pull the fuel line off and crank, does fuel come out

[BUCKEYE BANDIT]

Low pressure pump in on passenger side front of engine. It is mechanical,are there dual tanks on the truck??.Just follow the steel line from the filter housing down.

[jcren]

Sounds like gelled diesel. When I ran traveling construction, we had one that we fueled up in south Tennessee and ran to north Nebraska during a cold spell that would not start the next day. Northern climates add anti-gel to diesel during cold months, so if the fuel was left over from summer, might be the problem.

[starmac]

Air intrusion, I am very surprised you have never had this trouble before. That is if you are positive fuel is not gelled.
Pull your filter, I am betting that it is not full to the top, and it cranked and ran for a few seconds on what fuel was in the injector pump, before the air hit it.
9 times out of 10, the orings in the returnline caps are the culprit, but there is other areas that are common on them too, like the fuel heater connection on the filter.

[Hannibal]

If you pull the fuel line off and crank, does fuel come out

Oy. :oops:

Good question, Sir. The low pressure transfer pump is apparently working at it squirts fuel out of the 3/8" line a foot or so. I presume at cranking speed, that's probably OK. (?)

How do I check a high pressure line? Just pull one off an injector and see how far the stream shoots?

[Hannibal]

Sounds like gelled diesel. When I ran traveling construction, we had one that we fueled up in south Tennessee and ran to north Nebraska during a cold spell that would not start the next day. Northern climates add anti-gel to diesel during cold months, so if the fuel was left over from summer, might be the problem.

Just checked and it's not jelled. Low pressure transfer pump squirts fuel a foot or so when cranking.

[Hannibal]

Air intrusion, I am very surprised you have never had this trouble before. That is if you are positive fuel is not gelled.
Pull your filter, I am betting that it is not full to the top, and it cranked and ran for a few seconds on what fuel was in the injector pump, before the air hit it.
9 times out of 10, the orings in the returnline caps are the culprit, but there is other areas that are common on them too, like the fuel heater connection on the filter.

Fuel is definitely not jelled. Pulled the inlet line to the fuel filter and the low pressure transfer pump shoots fuel a foot or so when cranking and it's definitely not jelled.

Ok, I believe this could be the problem. What do I do to find/fix it?

[shaune509]

my 93 did the same , i traced it to the return line from injectors to fuel filter. this is also tee'd to the return to the tanks. local diesel shop told me that only ford returned to the racor filter [IH did not] and the check valve at the filter will fail and take in air from any leak in the return line. i disconected the return at the filter and plugged the check valve fitting, no problem since.
Shaune509

[Hannibal]

my 93 did the same , i traced it to the return line from injectors to fuel filter. this is also tee'd to the return to the tanks. local diesel shop told me that only ford returned to the racor filter [IH did not] and the check valve at the filter will fail and take in air from any leak in the return line. i disconected the return at the filter and plugged the check valve fitting, no problem since.
Shaune509

Sending you a PM. Thanks!

[starmac]

Napa or about any decent parts house carries fuel return line kits, but will give you the deer in the headlights look when you ask for one. They are in the computer as an injector install kit.
The kit consists of the return line T's new fuel line, the orings and the copper injector washers, the washers are not used to just do return lines.
The line will have to be cut to length, iirc it is 4 1/8 inch between injectors, but best to measure the old ones, as it has been a few years since I have done one.
The reason this is common on these is that the heat hardens the orings ten minutes after you crank one of these, if the line is ever disturbed (bumped) it wiggles the T and usually causes a leak, for this reason you can not do one injector, even if you think you know which one it is. I am surprised that you have never had to change them before, especially since it is hard to change the glow plugs without disturbing the return lines..
Have you checked at the schraeder valve while someone cranked the engine over to see if there is air or straight fuel, there should be NO air at all coming out of the filter.

[Hannibal]

Napa or about any decent parts house carries fuel return line kits, but will give you the deer in the headlights look when you ask for one. They are in the computer as an injector install kit.
The kit consists of the return line T's new fuel line, the orings and the copper injector washers, the washers are not used to just do return lines.
The line will have to be cut to length, iirc it is 4 1/8 inch between injectors, but best to measure the old ones, as it has been a few years since I have done one.
The reason this is common on these is that the heat hardens the orings ten minutes after you crank one of these, if the line is ever disturbed (bumped) it wiggles the T and usually causes a leak, for this reason you can not do one injector, even if you think you know which one it is. I am surprised that you have never had to change them before, especially since it is hard to change the glow plugs without disturbing the return lines..
Have you checked at the schraeder valve while someone cranked the engine over to see if there is air or straight fuel, there should be NO air at all coming out of the filter.

If there is a Schrader valve on this old dog, I've yet to notice it. All the fuel lines still have the gray paint on them from 1992, so I've no doubt the kit you're talking about is a good place to start. I'll call the NAPA warehouse Monday and hopefully, someone there will know what kit I need. 330,000 miles and 25 years? Not too shabby . . . . Never changed a glow plug, either. Though I did have to clean and tighten the connections on the glow plug controller once about 8 years ago.

Last time I left the rock quarry, the truck, trailer and load grossed 22,350 lbs.

Not too shabby . . .

Thanks to everyone, I really appreciate it!

[enfield]

I'm assuming your in a cold climate if your thinking about jelled fuel & glow plugs ( both good things to rule out ). I Know at one time the crank / cam position sensors would fail and give you a no start , If it has a tach, does it move while your cranking it over ? if not then the sensor could be the problem.

[Hannibal]

No Tach. I'm hoping the fuel line/'O'-ring issue raised above is the culprit. Seems these old 7.3s were plagued with such issues, so either way it's a needed maintenance.

Rest assured, If I repair the fuel lines and the doggone thing still won't start, I'll be back with more ???.

[BMW Rider]

If there is a Schrader valve on this old dog, I've yet to notice it.

Schrader valve should be on the fuel filter head if I recall correctly. Use it to bleed air out of the lines while cranking the engine. Good luck.

[Hannibal]

Schrader valve should be on the fuel filter head if I recall correctly. Use it to bleed air out of the lines while cranking the engine. Good luck.

I'll look again tomorrow. Thanks for the post.

[Plate plinker]

:popcorn: I own diesel too good luck with this.

You have good advice and I am sure you will solve this problem. After all it is a simple machine.

[Dave W.]

No smoke out the exhaust means no fuel to the injectors. The problem is going to be between the point where there is fuel and where there is no fuel. Just have to find that point.

These are a fairly simple system. The transfer pump supplies fuel to the injection pump. The injection pump sends the fuel to the individual injectors at the correct time. it sounds like the transfer pump is working. Have you tried cracking an injector line, (loosing the nut a turn) and cranking the engine? A small amount of fuel should shoot out past the nut each time the injector is supposed to fire. If fuel no fuel comes out, try plugging the fuel return line from the injectors at the filer housing on the housing side. Let the line from the injectors hang open, or route it into a container. On the side of the fuel filter head should be a scharder valve, depress it while cranking the engine, when the housing is full of fuel, fuel will come out of it. Release the valve and crank the engine until fuel starts squinting out the loosened injector nut. Tighten the nut and the engine should start fairly quickly.

I am thinking these had an electric fuel shut off on the injection pump. If so, is there system voltage to the terminal when the Key is on?

Is the block heater working? O is pretty cold for this old girl to start with out help.

Good luck.

[Hannibal]

Block heater is working. No doubt about this.
Low pressure transfer pump is working. No doubt about this.
Glow plugs are working. No doubt about this.

The injector pump is not 'qualified' at this point. Either it has failed, or air is being introduced somewhere.
That is where I am at.

[Brassduck]

pull the return line off the top of injection pump, remove that fitting, try starting the eng. fuel will leak out of fitting hole. if it starts, the fitting you took out is stopped up, from the drive ring in the injection pump coming apart.

GOOD LUCK

[Hannibal]

pull the return line off the top of injection pump, remove that fitting, try starting the eng. fuel will leak out of fitting hole. if it starts, the fitting you took out is stopped up, from the drive ring in the injection pump coming apart.

GOOD LUCK

Why is it that I hope your diagnosis is incorrect?

[starmac]

It cranked and died, now it is possible that the injector pump just happened to fail at that exact time, BUT that is the exact symptom of an air leak, 99 out of a hundred times it is in the return line system. If your rig still has the gray T's it is a rare bird and I would bet money that, that is the problem.
It will start with the air leak and run fine till it sits for a while again, just fill the filter and bleed the system, starting at the schraeder valve, then at a couple of injector lines until a little fuel dribbles out of them. It will not shoot a lot of fuel out like a cummins. Sometimes the pump gets an air lock and this can be a pain. There is down low on the body of the pump a 1/2 inch bolt head, you can loosen this off if you cant get the pump primed and bleed it that way. If you have to do this, just loosen it half a turn or a little more.

There is no crank or cam sensors on the idi engine to worry about, besides the glow plug ONE wire to the pump makes these babys run.

[starmac]

I never weighed this load. I'd not admit it if I had. 211256

That's a 22' trailer. Red oak and Locust.

Yep. That's a bumper hitch. If you don't load it right, you're gonna have a BAD day.

You don't have to worry about overloading them old fords, if the tires aren't mashed flat you are good to go. lol

[Hannibal]

It cranked and died, now it is possible that the injector pump just happened to fail at that exact time, BUT that is the exact symptom of an air leak, 99 out of a hundred times it is in the return line system. If your rig still has the gray T's it is a rare bird and I would bet money that, that is the problem.
It will start with the air leak and run fine till it sits for a while again, just fill the filter and bleed the system, starting at the schraeder valve, then at a couple of injector lines until a little fuel dribbles out of them. It will not shoot a lot of fuel out like a cummins. Sometimes the pump gets an air lock and this can be a pain. There is down low on the body of the pump a 1/2 inch bolt head, you can loosen this off if you cant get the pump primed and bleed it that way. If you have to do this, just loosen it half a turn or a little more.

There is no crank or cam sensors on the idi engine to worry about, besides the glow plug ONE wire to the pump makes these babys run.

This bleed bolt you're talking about, is this on the low pressure transfer pump or . . . .?

And it does have a cam sensor. Right on top of the cam gear cover with 2 wires coming out of it. I can post pictures if that will help. (?)

[starmac]

The bleeder bolt I am talking about is down low on the injector pump, there is actually one on each side and hard to get to. If memory serves right it is easiest accessed with a swivel socket. I do not know what it is actually for, I do know if it will start and run with it open, but dies when you close it, it is time for a new pump.
The cam sensor you are talking about is for a tach, it can not keep the engine from running, in fact not all of them even had one.

[Hannibal]

There is a 'T' fitting on the driver's side of the engine between the left and right bank fuel returns. I presume this is the return to tank line. Is there a check valve contained within that 'T'?

Went to the parts store and got the return line (install) kit. I've got the right side apart. The 'o' rings were surprisingly soft still. Fuel line itself is cracked and rock hard.

[Petrol & Powder]

I'm also going to say air in the high pressure side of the system. It has been a while since I played with the International Harvester systems but the old mechanical systems are about the same. It ran until air was introduced into the high pressure side and stopped. It doesn't take much to prevent it from running.
You've received good advice; locate the source of the air leak, fix it and bleed the air out of the high pressure side.

The old Cummins 12 valve systems had a fuel heater that was in-line before the injector pump. That fuel heater was notorious for failing. You could take the heater section out, throw that piece away and re-assemble the unit without the heater. That would permanently eliminate that failure point. The heater was useless anyway.

The IH systems had their own idiosyncratic behaviors.

[Brassduck]

Petrol & Powder you are correct, there is a rubber line that runs from the fuel filter to back of the injection pump, gets old and cracks. will leak sometimes, when the eng is off it will let air into the low pressure side (fuel filter)and the fuel escapes back into the fuel tank unfortunately you have to remove the intake manifold to change this line. an air leak any where in the system will cause this. being the eng started and than died with the check valve fitting removed the injection pump is probably ok.

[Hannibal]

Ok. I've got the 'o' rings, fittings and lines replaced on all 8 injectors. Before I button everything back up, I'd like to test any and all check valves that there are.

I have 3 return fuel lines. one goes to the fuel filter assembly. I'm pretty sure there is a check valve in the housing where that line connects. (?)

A second return line goes to the injector pump. Is there a check valve here?

And the last line runs from a 'T' fitting which is located within the fuel return line that connects the left and right bank. I have removed this 'T' and that is all there is, a simple 'T' fitting, no check valve. I presume this is the return to tank line. Is there a check valve within this line somewhere, and if so, does anybody know it's precise location?

Thanks to all who have replied. I appreciate your help.

[starmac]

As far as I know there is no check valve on the return line to the tank, if there is, I have never run across nor heard of any issue with one.

[Hannibal]

As far as I know there is no check valve on the return line to the tank, if there is, I have never run across nor heard of any issue with one.

Ok! That's good to know. SO. Did a YouTube search and it seems that the line from the injector pump flows into the return lines, so no check valve there. Seems like all I need to worry about is the filter block. Perhaps I'll just cap it and see if it'll run. Can always hook it back up later.

[skeettx]

Looking on
Mike

[starmac]

I would top the filter off, It will eventually self bleed, but it takes a lot of cranking and sometimes the starters don't take it.

As far as checking the high pressure side, that can be done at the schraeder valve, if it clears up and pumps solid fuel out it should not be sucking air. High pressure is actually low pressure, if you use a gage on the shrader valve, it should have 4 to 6 pounds of pressure, and going from memory to check the flow, you take out the valve core and hook a hose, it should pump a half pint in 20 seconds if I remember right,you better check on the volume, before taking my word.

[Hannibal]

I would top the filter off, It will eventually self bleed, but it takes a lot of cranking and sometimes the starters don't take it.

As far as checking the high pressure side, that can be done at the schraeder valve, if it clears up and pumps solid fuel out it should not be sucking air. High pressure is actually low pressure, if you use a gage on the shrader valve, it should have 4 to 6 pounds of pressure, and going from memory to check the flow, you take out the valve core and hook a hose, it should pump a half pint in 20 seconds if I remember right,you better check on the volume, before taking my word.

Well, I got everything back together. Made sure I have fuel and no air at the filter housing schrader valve. Still only cranks and won't fire. I have fuel at the return liine on the injector pump. Tried 5x for 20 seconds or so, then let sit 10 min to give the starter time to cool. Cracked the #1 injector line and it gets damp, but doesn't seem to have any pressure. I'll try again tomorrow, but I'm beginning to wonder if the injector pump has failed.

The thing that bothered me about this to begin with is when it started, it ran perfectly for 2 seconds. Never sounded better. And when it died, it died just like I'd shut the key off. No rough running or anything. Just door nail dead instantly. I have checked the fuel shut-off solenoid, and I can hear it click when I disconnect and reconnect it with the key on.

[Petrol & Powder]

You have air in the injector lines. Loosen ALL of them, crank the engine to bleed the air out and then tighten them. Once you get it running, go back and loosen/retighten them one at a time while the engine is running.

[Hannibal]

You have air in the injector lines. Loosen ALL of them, crank the engine to bleed the air out and then tighten them. Once you get it running, go back and loosen/retighten them one at a time while the engine is running.
Allright, I'll try this tomorrow. Off to work this afternoon.

[starmac]

I agree you still have air in the lines and injectors, sometimes they can be a royal pain, but once you do get it running, there is no reason to go back and re bleed the lines, it is self bleeding with the return line setup it has and should clear up in seconds by itself.
It is possible that your injector pump has called it quits, but I wouldn't give up on it yet. And you will never see anything like the pressure you would expect from cracking a line.
Are you getting white smoke out of your exhaust, while cranking?

[Brassduck]

let me start over :does it have an electrical or mechanical lift pump? you need to determine if it's working. on top of the fuel filter is bleed valve. open this valve and crank the eng until ya get a stream of fuel to come out, not bubbles but a solid stream of fuel these can be a bear to get the air out of injection pump and lines if ya don't get solid fuel into the injection pump
GOOD LUCK

[Hannibal]

I agree you still have air in the lines and injectors, sometimes they can be a royal pain, but once you do get it running, there is no reason to go back and re bleed the lines, it is self bleeding with the return line setup it has and should clear up in seconds by itself.
It is possible that your injector pump has called it quits, but I wouldn't give up on it yet. And you will never see anything like the pressure you would expect from cracking a line.
Are you getting white smoke out of your exhaust, while cranking?

No white smoke. Nothing visable from the exhaust at all.

[Hannibal]

let me start over :does it have an electrical or mechanical lift pump? you need to determine if it's working. on top of the fuel filter is bleed valve. open this valve and crank the eng until ya get a stream of fuel to come out, not bubbles but a solid stream of fuel these can be a bear to get the air out of injection pump and lines if ya don't get solid fuel into the injection pump
GOOD LUCK

It has a machanical lift pump, and I have established it is working by removing a line at the filter housing and observing fuel squirt a foot or so out the line in pulses while cranking. I also vented the air from the filter housing using the schrader valve. Only took a few seconds to vent.

[Hannibal]

I've been thinking of disabling the glow plugs after the block heater has warmed it and using a trigger squirt bottle to mist a *small* amount of diesel fuel into the intake while cranking to get a bit more RPMs and lessen the strain on the starter while trying to purge the pump and lines with the lines cracked at the injectors.

Perhaps this is not wise . . . .

[starmac]

No white smoke, means no fuel to the cylinders yet. Sometimes those injector pumps gets an air block that is just a pain to work out, then sometimes it is just a matter of seconds and it fires right up, can't explain it, it seems like there is no ryme or reason for it, but I have had it both ways.

[starmac]

Another thing that we didn't run into much until these things got some years on them was the starter was not spinning them as fast as they used to due to over time the battery cables and or the starter had degraded. It is a slow process and you don't really notice it until it becomes a problem, but they have to spin fast.

[Hannibal]

I don't think that's it, as it was spinning over slower when it started the one time than it is now since it's had a charger on it and plenty of time for the block heater to warm it up. Batteries are only about 14 months old. But I'll keep that in mind. More reason to try my spray bottle experiment, I suppose.

[starmac]

Careful with the spray bottle, diesel does not compress, so it doesn't take a lot getin trouble.
What I am talking about as far as turning over, is if everything is up to snuff, they will continue to start at a lower rpm, which is why we do not notice them slowing down over a long period of time, but it does make a difference when you are fighting an air block. Look at the ends of your battery cables, if there is any swelling near the terminal ends, it is not getting the needed juice.

[Hannibal]

Ok. I'll double check things.

[Mytmousemalibu]

The old IDI Fords are a pita to get going if it gets air in the system. Crank with the Schrader depressed on the fuel filter housing to make sure its free of air. You can also crack a line and CAREFULLY blow compressed air in the fuel filler i pulses using a rag as a "seal". Just don't go too far, a few psig can bulge the tank. Finally, crack all 8 injector lines at the injectors and crank till all 8 start showing fuel flow. Loosen off the nut a full turn or two. The return caps and lines often need replacement on IDI Fords and make sure any rubber hose from the low pressure engine driven fuel lift pump (just like an old carbureted car has) has no leaks. If the line even looks mildly old/deteriorated, replace it. It can develop pin holes and allow the fuel system to suck air.

IDI's don't like ether in my experience unless way down on compression so avoid using it. I absolutely would NOT! plumb any diesel pre fuel to any diesel! Never give a diesel an unregulated/distributed fuel source! In any matter, it needs to be atomized to do much good. Some diesels can handle ether or even designed to use it (like 2-stroke Detroits) but any healthy IDI shouldn't. You can pour gasoline on a rag and hold it over the air cleaner inlet or a mist of something like WD-40 while cranking, can help light it up. Also giving it hot air to breath via heat gun, hair dryer, etc helps. All of these starting aides are assuming you are getting fuel delivery now. Need to have good cranking speed to generate the compressive heat you need too.

[Hannibal]

Well, the truck is finally running again. Went out this morning and made sure I had fuel and no air at the filter housing. Loosened all 8 lines at the injectors. Got a bit of fuel at 4 after 20 seconds of cranking, tightened those 4 down and let the starter cool 10 min. Got fuel to the remaining 4 injectors and it started firing on 1 cylinder during the next 20 seconds of cranking. Tried misting some diesel into the intake during this crank cycle, but it did no good at all so far as I could tell. Anyway, tightened the remaining 4 lines and waited 10 min again. Cranked about 5 seconds with it firing on 1 cylinder and all the sudden *it was running*. No smoking, heavy knocking, hitting on 2, 3 ,4 cylinders, just running. :veryconfu

Anyway, all of you who said it was air-locked were apparently spot-on. I've no idea why it gave me so much trouble, but as the return lines, 'umbrella' fittings and 'o' rings are all new now, hopefully it won't do it again, but if it does I know what to do next time.

I'd like to thank everyone who offered advice, and starmac in particular, as he chimed-in early and stuck with the thread.

Thanks again, and I hope I can help some of you solve a vexing problem of your own one day.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've been thinking of disabling the glow plugs after the block heater has warmed it and using a trigger squirt bottle to mist a *small* amount of diesel fuel into the intake while cranking to get a bit more RPMs and lessen the strain on the starter while trying to purge the pump and lines with the lines cracked at the injectors.

Perhaps this is not wise . . . .

That will not work. The injectors spray diesel fuel into the cylinders at the top of the compression stroke. Spraying diesel into the intake will serve no purpose other than possibly result in pre-ignition, which will only make the engine even more resistant to rotating.

AND I now see that you got it running.

And YES, air in the injector lines and you're welcome.

[starmac]

Glad to hear it.
As far as I am concerned the 6.9 idi was the toughest engine ever installed in a ford, the 7.3 a close second. The 87 6.9 had some of the upgrades of the 7.3 and was the best year.

They do not have the power that newer electronic diesels have, but will do anything a pickup is intended to do in my opinion, and do it economically over the long haul.

[Hannibal]

Yes, I learned early on that there's no point trying to get in a big hurry or trying to pull a big load down the road at 80mph in this truck, because all you'll accomplish is making it smoke a lot and waste fuel. But if you don't mind ambling along at about 60, I've yet to find anything it won't pull.

Thanks again everyone.

[john.k]

Spraying gasoline fuel into the intake aint good for the motor,but a motor can be run like this to get fuel up to the injectors.....with a mechanical injector pump.........Ive spent a lifetime running **** diesel machinery,and I know just about every trick to get the last day of life from an old motor...........when pump problems happen,its wise to keep an eye on the engine oil level.......rising dipstick and thin .or smelly oil will be big problems from fuel dilution.........and V8s run a lot better than 4s on sprayed gasoline fuel.Use low octane,never alky blend.

[starmac]

Generally when a ford (international) idi builds motor oil it is the mechanical transfer pump and not the injector pump. These do not have to be old, the diaphragm in them can and does go bad at any time. Originally the injector pumps could fill the oil pan, but supposedly they changed something and even the old ones were changed when rebuilt to where they claimed it was no longer a problem, and I tend to believe it, as I have not seen it occur since about 86 or so.

[plus1hdcp]

Glad the OP seems to have the issue resolved. I am new to the diesel world, bought a used one last year, and found this an interesting read.

[john.k]

You can get a bit of excitment with diesels,like the feller who washed his air cleaner element in kerosine ,and assembled wet.......reckoned the motor hit 10,000 revs before the kaboom......motors that run backwards unexpectedly can be interesting too........mostly though ,dont play around with gasoline sprays,remember that two marines and a can of gas destroyed half the Pacific fleet in 1943......said to be twice the damage of the Jap attack two years earlier.

[starmac]

The older chevy diesels would blow up if someone screwed up and filled the tank with gas.
The idi fords would not run on it, injector pumps would not pump it or something, not sure about the strokes.
The cummins would run, but just above an idle, I had a customer call me once, thinking his fuel filter was plugged and was headed my way at just a little more than an idle, if he didn't get there I was to go to him, he made it 6 miles and when I pulled the filter, it was gas instead of diesel, it seemed the fuel man that fueled up his 500 gallon tank at home screwed up. I bet the fuel company called me a half a dozen times the next week or so, checking to make sure he hadn't had any more trouble.

[john.k]

Repairers get in quite a few cars and pickups accidentally run on gas,lack of lubrication quickly ruins the injection equiptment......or so the customer is told......I went to one pickup,a Isuzu, filled up with gas,but on about 1/8 tank of diesel.I added as much engine oil as the tank would take,rocked the truck by hand to mix,and ran it back to the shop.No repairs needed.Just drain and refill with diesel.Never even worried about the filters.

[nseries]

I didn't read all the threads... but here's my experiences with a 1990 f250 7.3 IDI years ago. If it sat for a couple weeks, I'd have to bleed the lines at the injectors. Return lines were leaking. Installed a return line kit and solved it. Got a good deal on new injectors and glow plugs so while I was there I replaced them too.

I eventually ran into injector pump problems. It would surge at times up until it outright died. Replaced the pump with a reman and solved that. Thought I had it bleed properly and took it for a ride only for it to die two miles from home. Had someone depress the shrader vavle between the injection pump and fuel filter while cranking. After that she started and ran until the day I sold it.

These are great engines without computer controls. I forget more about them than I remember. Your truck has some age on it, so I'd be questioning anything with a vitron seal.

eBay is your friend when searching for parts. When I was searching for the parts mentioned above, I searched all the manufacturers part numbers and cross referenced all that I came up with until I found the "deals". Took some time but spent less that half of what I would have spent at Napa, Autozone, etc.

[texasnative46]

Hannibal,

Try squirting a little WD40 into the intake & see if it will start/run on that. - If NOT, it's time to get out the troubleshooting guide & start with A & continue to Z.

Do NOT use ether, as the NAVISTAR engines don't do well with it, as it doesn't contain lubricant.

BEST WISHES.

yours, tex

[Hannibal]

Hannibal,

Try squirting a little WD40 into the intake & see if it will start/run on that. - If NOT, it's time to get out the troubleshooting guide & start with A & continue to Z.

Do NOT use ether, as the NAVISTAR engines don't do well with it, as it doesn't contain lubricant.

BEST WISHES.

yours, tex

Truck is running. See post #48. I guess I should lock the thread, just thought someone out there might find something useful if they read through the whole thread. Thanks for the advice. If I ever have to purge air from the injector pump again, I may well try that. After trying a mist of diesel, I've come to believe it must be the propellants that are burned, but I'll not argue with anyone about it.

[john.k]

hannibal, a lot of diesel newbies reading this might pick up a tip that saves them a tow fee and thousands at the hands of a ripoff mechanic..........I was lookin for a replacement head for my pickup,and there is didly on the net thats useful.....just china hate mostly.......now i know what im doin,but had to go blind on the head or pay Ford ten times the money for the same product.........also seems labor to replace a simple 4 pot head is around $3000........now that buys a lot of shootin gear.

[starmac]

If it isn't getting any fuel, it will not run on wd40. My first one was a 85 model that was wrecked with 11,000 miles on it. I put that motor in an older gas rig and didn't know how to wire the glow plugs, started it every morning on either, it barely took a whiff. I put right at 400,000 miles on that engine. The problem with these engines and either is the glow plugs, they can ignite the either causing them to send the piston back down before it comes to the top, effectively turning the engine backwards against the starter. I have seen them break the starter off the block.
Most of the time you can get away with it, but it just takes once for all the stars to line uo to be a problem, if you have to use either disable the glowplugs.

[texasnative46]

Hannibal,

Sounds about RIGHT.

yours, tex

[Hannibal]

You know, it's funny. I work on diesel engines 6 days a week that are either 12 or 16 cylinders with pistons the size of 3lb coffee cans (yeah I know, not anymore), run 42 lbs of turbo boost and make 4500 horse power. You can fog an entire 16oz aerosol can of ether into these things and they'll rattle 'n bang but when it's -30 degrees, sometimes it's either that or they won't start when they've been sittin' outside for a week. Now, they don't have glow plugs, so that changes things. 300 gallons of oil. 4500 gallon fuel tanks. 250 gallons of coolant. It's treated with borate and dumps on the ground at 37 degrees, because 250 gallons of anti-freeze is deemed too expensive. :veryconfu

Point being, it amazes me how some hands-on experience can make all the difference.

Thanks again to all who helped. I appreciate it.

[kycrawler]

I can't believe. You got 330 k. Out of stock umbrella seals. Normally the stanadyne db2 injector pumps. On these motors are good for about 100 k miles. Then they flat out die. Or won't restart hot. Installing. A. One way valve in the line between the fuel filter housing and the transfer pump will help alot of them that drop prime.

[Hannibal]

I guess I'm just lucky. Truck sits alot these days and I've not tried to restart it since fixing it. Hoping it stays fixed. Supposed to warm up to near 50 Sat., I suppose I'll try it then. -10 tonight.