How much heat ?

[missionary5155]

So with a stuck barrel... How much heat should be applied to the reciever thread area... or the barrel to aid with removal ? I thought about placing a piece of soft solder on the receiver and when that melted that was enough. I have used kerosene to soak the joint for two days... This is a Colt model 1895 in 41 Colt.

[M98]

heat a receiver, unless you plan on having it reheat treated,,,if you are not gonna keep the barrel and its a screw on...you can stress relieve it by cutting a couple groves down the edge up near action....on my mausers....i just use a piple wrench and a hammer...on my action wrench....ive gotten all off that way...3 or 4 foot pipe wrench does wonders...:)

[missionary5155]

Thanks M98... Figured it is always better to ask first. If I can just remember to remember.

[Willbird]

Typically if you can find out the metal your receiver is made of, and the hardness it is tempered to, you will know how hot you can heat it without drawing it softer. This is good information to know for other projects involving heat treated items.

If you are going to be working witrh metals it is best to get a copy of Machineries Handbook and study the properties and heat treatments of metals.

Many rifle actions are made from 4140 steel that is 44-46 hardness on the Rockwell C scale. That is 434-458 brinell. Machineries Handbook says a 600 degree tempering temperature gives 445 brinell while 400 degrees gives 510 brinell.

From this information I have always considered 500 degrees to be the absolute maximum temperature for 4140 gun parts, and Brownells does make a low temp silver solder that flows at 475.

This is just good knowledge to have......................

Bill

[missionary5155]

Thanks Willlbird ! I was going to heat it up to about 250 just to get the barrel to realise it is coming off... This is a Colt 1895 (1903) 41 Colt cartridge.

[Willbird]

You could just BOIL the thing in water I guess ??

[Antietamgw]

Get some Kroil, let it soak in. Works even better with a LITTLE heat, 250F is just fine. Do it several times and give the Kroil some time to work. Some time in the freezer between heating sessions can help too. Don't skimp on a proper action wrench, support for the action if needed and a barrel vise - in other words, spend an hour on setup and 3 seconds to break it loose. It beats wondering how to straighten, bend or cover up the messed up job that can result from poor setup or equipment. With a little luck, all will unscrew without twisting or otherwise messing up. A little prayer helps if you ain't perfect too. Good luck!

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Try heating the barrel right ahead of the action, and let it cool. When heated, metal TRIES to expand in all directions, and can be prevented, by being confined, from expanding in some. When cooling, it will shrink in all directions, even the ones it wasn't able to expand in.

This is the reason aluminum wire "creeps" and loosens in electrical connectors.
Morgan

[Willbird]

Get some Kroil, let it soak in. Works even better with a LITTLE heat, 250F is just fine. Do it several times and give the Kroil some time to work. Some time in the freezer between heating sessions can help too. Don't skimp on a proper action wrench, support for the action if needed and a barrel vise - in other words, spend an hour on setup and 3 seconds to break it loose. It beats wondering how to straighten, bend or cover up the messed up job that can result from poor setup or equipment. With a little luck, all will unscrew without twisting or otherwise messing up. A little prayer helps if you ain't perfect too. Good luck!


boiled, in Kroil :-)

Bill

[missionary5155]

Thanks to everyone ! Me thinks Kroil first and then some heat if needed.