Uberti screws backing out

[T-Bird]

I took my new Uberti Callahan 44mag out yesterday. Gun shot great using 44 sp+p loads, but after a couple cylinders, I noticed the 3 screws on the frame and the basepin retainer were loose. I tightened them but they loosened again. Had this happen to my 357 Cattleman, with the ejector rod housing screw and the basepin retainer, and I used blue lock tite and fixed the prob. My question is, if I take these 3 screws on the frame out one at a time clean and lock tite them, will the innards of the gun shift making it where I have to disassemble the gun to put them back in? Or is lock tite on these screws a bad idea?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Can you back the screws out just enough to get the blue Locktite in under heads without removing them completely, and then get some into the other ends of the holes into the female threads? Then tighten the screws and wipe off the excess Locktite. Another option, if you do remove them completely, is to use tiny neoprene "O" rings under the heads. Yes, I think that if you're careful you can remove and replace them one at a time.

The best technique for taking them completely out would be to remove them slowly and follow the screw out with an appropriately sized pin punch, so that the punch retains the internal parts in place, inserting the punch into the hole behind the screw as it is removed. When re-installing the screw just do the reverse, as the screw goes in let it push the pin punch out.

[nicholst55]

They make a 'wicking' loctite, that will creep up the threads. Not sure of the part number, but Brownells carries it.

[gray wolf]

The best technique for taking them completely out would be to remove them slowly and follow the screw out with an appropriately sized pin punch, so that the punch retains the internal parts in place, inserting the punch into the hole behind the screw as it is removed. When re-installing the screw just do the reverse, as the screw goes in let it push the pin punch out.

Seems to be a common problem, while I don't know the answer, the above would be a sensible approach. Just don't damage the threads, also it's said Umberti uses soft metal screws. hardened screws are available on line.
Also on line you can find take apart --put together Vids.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

You can take them out one at a time, apply Loctite and reinstall. The Colt SA did the same thing. In the 19th century they applied varnish to the screws. I assure you, if you take them out one at a time as I described, the sky will not fall.

[T-Bird]

Thanks for the help guys. Merry Christmas!

[jcren]

"Green" loctite is the penetrating type. Used it by the pint bottle when I built industrial band saws. Great for locking things in after final adjustment.

[gray wolf]

In case anything goes wrong, but hey what could go wrong ?
https://youtu.be/4PF9E3MBBc8

https://youtu.be/VpvC4YvjmqE

[jrmartin1964]

The three screws hold the trigger, cylinder bolt, and the hammer in place. All of these parts are under spring tension. If you remove the screws, I can guarantee you will have to remove the trigger guard and grip frame in order to get the parts and screws back in their proper places. These screws, however, unlike the usually imagined screws, are threaded only just under the heads, with the remainder turned down to act as a pivot pin for their respective parts. You could probably back them out sufficiently to allow a drop of Loctite to creep in under the heads and then retighten them, but in order for the Loctite to work properly you really need to completely remove them and degrease the threaded part and the threads in the frame.

Your best course of action would be to disassemble, degrease, Loctite, and reassemble. Instructions are just like for a Colt, and are available all over the internet.

[T-Bird]

thanks jrmartin. I got them out one at a time, the trigger moved a little, but I was able to realign it with the screw. So did the hammer. I realigned it by pressing with my finger. and yes, the 2 that don't hold the hammer are threaded under the head. The hammer screw was threaded like normal.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I thought T-bird was talking about the screws that secure the grip frame to the frame of the pistol. Of course the three screws that go thru the side of the pistol frame hold trigger, hammer in place. Actually taking a Colt SA clone apart and putting it back together ain,t no big deal.

[DougGuy]

I had a Uberti made 44 magnum many years ago. I did not like the screws, they were all fairly soft with a coarse thread that was not too precisely executed. The ejector rod housing REFUSED to stay on the gun I don't care how much you loctited the screw. I eventually parted ways with it because of this.

[robertbank]

Welcome to the harmonics of the SAA revolver. I read once where Colt, after the War, used nylon crush washers in an attempt to keep the three screws in place. Lock tite seems to be the universal answer to the problem. Watch the screw that holds the ejector rod to the barrel. Somewhere on the Terrace Rod & Gun Club pistol range rests a screw off a Uberti El Patron .357Mag.

Take Care

Bob

[gray wolf]

I read once where Colt, after the War, used nylon crush washers in an attempt to keep the

I'm getting forgetful, what war was that, when was Nylon invented.

[robertbank]

I'm getting forgetful, what war was that, when was Nylon invented.

dubya dubya two

Take Care

Bob

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I got tired of looking for the screw that holds the ejector tube on my Colt SA and simply shoot it without one. Those screws don't grow on trees.

[robertbank]

I got tired of looking for the screw that holds the ejector tube on my Colt SA and simply shoot it without one. Those screws don't grow on trees.

They grow in range grass, hidden from magnets and searching fingers.

Take Care

Bob

[T-Bird]

I lost mine off my Cattleman .357 but miraculously found it. So far the ejector rod housing screw is tight on this .44

[robertbank]

I lost mine off my Cattleman .357 but miraculously found it. So far the ejector rod housing screw is tight on this .44

My advice is to back it out and apply blue loctite. When then sceew goes there is no warning.

Take Care

Bob

[country gent]

A lot of times blue locktite under the head will hold pretty good, and is easier to break loose when needed. On the threads its better but harder to get to release. We would put a drop under the head of allen head cap screws at work on gages when building them at final assembly. Not on the threads but under the head in the counter bored hole. This did great keeping bolts tight and was easier to break loose if work was needed.
Look at the seats for the heads, make sure youyr getting good true surface engagement and not a small ring of engagement with open areas. This gives a false tight and allows vibrations to loosen screws easier. Some times a counter bore chips or isn't sharpened quite true leaving a small ring of actual engagement and open areas. Same with screw heads if not flat and true then the surface is comprised. Its amazing when a squared action anda fitted barrel are sun together by hand it usually requires a wrench to "pop" them apart due to the surface area and true fit.