Replacing RCBS lock ring bronze/brass set screws

[Mr_Sheesh]

I'm told they gall and strip the steel lock rings so it sounds like time to replace the darn things.

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the set screws? I know they take a 3/32" allen wrench but that does not tell me the threading.

(I got ticked at the missing allen wrench and bought a 50-pack of allen wrenches the other day, 1 per die set should keep things more convenient!)

[Jamezius Maximus]

Might need to contact RCBS on that. Sometimes you get a helpful tech...other times you get someone with an attitude...just hang up and try again lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[5Shot]

Take one of the rings to the hardware store. It is probably a #8. I buy the steel ones, and then put a piece of bird shot in the hole to keep from damaging the threads on the die.

[Kenstone]

I've given up on them and have switched to Dillon die nuts...
I use 2 per die, locked together, no set screw needed.
Their small hex size is better for use on any progressive, buy the wrench too...2.
The nuts are sold in 5 packs with a wrench too.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-wrench-lock-ring-5-pack_8_4_24577.html
https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-5-pack-die-lock-rings_8_4_24511.html
thank me later
:mrgreen:

[Wild Bill 7]

If you don't want the brass to gall the theads take out the set screw and ad a shotgun pellet ( number 8 shot) in the hole and replace the set screw. That helps to lock the ring in place. Hopefully that solves the problem as I see it.

[Tom W.]

I changed a few out to the Hornady rings. I like them better. I believe Sinclair sells some that are round but still have the crosslock feature.

[Soundguy]

Ditto on the lead shot,

OR

I replace ALL Lee lock rings with rcbs, which leaves me with a pile of lock rings over the years. Flip a lee ring over and use it as a double nut on any other lock ring, no set screw needed.

OR

Get a there press and multiple heads and just leave the dies set in the tool head with a single lock ring and no set screw. ;)

[Heavy Metal 1]

The RCBS rings are ok, but the cheesy brass setscrews they come with are short lived. One can get brass screws from the hdwe store that will fit the rings. With that no lead pellet is needed, BUT the Hornady rings are far better because they clamp on to the die body without harming the threads and I have yet to have one slip out of position.

[salpal48]

call Ch4d. They sell The plastic pellets for the set screws . works great

[metricmonkeywrench]

My experience with RCBS was a little diffrent, I contacted them with the customer support form on the websitr after ruining one on a second hand set to get the size/thread pitch. The CS rep responded that he was sending a few out. What I recieved was about a 1/2 Tsp worth of the brass disks and set screws. For my use that's about a lifetime supply.

[quail4jake]

You've probably lost the brass plunger that fits under the screw and conforms to the threads, the birdshot pellet is a great solution. That being said I'm gradually changing mine over to the hornady clamp on type. RCBS has great customer service, I would be interested to hear their take...:popcorn:

[Bama]

Take one of the rings to the hardware store. It is probably a #8. I buy the steel ones, and then put a piece of bird shot in the hole to keep from damaging the threads on the die.

+1 !

[mdi]

Old machinist/mechanic here. Brass setscrews don't gall steel, but a gorilla can distort and strip the threads quite easily. It's also not very difficult to strip a hex socket in them. If you use steel setscrews you will damage the die body threads. If you think you need to tighten the sets crews down hard enough to strip the allen wrench or the socket, try these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-tip-set-screws/=1asovhl.

I have seen a few dies ruined by tightening set screws and lock rings down waaaay too tight. In my lifetime of working with/on bolts, nuts, screws and other mechanical fasteners, I've found no reason to tighten them enough to damage anything. For die lock rings just snug, finger tight will hold more often than not. If your lock rings work loose, look for why, don't grab the 18" channel locks and put your 250 lbs behind them...

[Minerat]

Contact RCBS customer service and explain the setscrew problem and more then likely they will send you as many as you ask for with in reason, no cost. RCBS also make 2 sizes of Allen wrenches drivers that fit both sizes usually found on RCBS equipment. Then drop a piece of 7.5 lead shot in the setscrew hole.

[Alexn20]

I changed a few out to the Hornady rings. I like them better. I believe Sinclair sells some that are round but still have the crosslock feature.

Ditto! I'm glad I made the switch. Far better product design. Its about 16 bucks for a 6 pack on Midway (https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/236200/hornady-sure-loc-die-locking-ring-7-8-14-thread?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Reloading%20-%20Dies%20%26%20Shellholders&utm_content=236200&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading%20-%20Dies%20%26%20Shellholders-_-Hornady-_-236200&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuzywpae2AIVFdNkCh3Kaw5IEAQYASAB EgKE9_D_BwE).

[Mr_Sheesh]

mdi, true, I was planning on the lead pellet trick. I'm not a machinist but do know steel on steel can mess it up. I am pretty gentle on my gear, only way to be. Especially for us Yetis :P

[lightman]

I just took a set screw out of one of my lock rings and checked it. It shows to be a #10-32 size and takes a 3/32's wrench. Using a nylon pellet or a lead shot is a good idea. I bought a few of the Sinclair rings to use on my Giraud case trimmer. Its a nice ring, but the RCBS rings seem to work ok for me.

[Mr_Sheesh]

lightman - Thank you. Schedule here is as messed up as the rest of everything, maybe I can just mail order those :)

[Jim_P]

I got a pack of 100 of these: https://www.boltdepot.com/Set_screws_Allen_Cup_point_Stainless_steel_18-8_10-32.aspx in 3/16". They are 10/32 screw/thread. FWIW, Bolt Depot is a great source for screws. Quality is great, service is fast. They don't care if you buy one or a zillion. But that pack of 100 setscrews cost about $6.00. The 3/16" size does allow you to use the Die Wrench or other socket type for a tight die.

[BCB]

I remove the set screws and use a slotted screw. This one is aluminum...

I normally use brass ones...

You get a better feel for how tight it is with the slotted head and longer screw...

Looks crude, but I have most of my rings converted to that...

Good-luck...BCB

[Mr_Sheesh]

Jim P, interesting screw source, they even have Chicago Screws (which I use for a number of things), interesting. Good sources for parts are NICE! :)

[mdi]

FWIW; just be aware cup point steel setscrews will dig into the die threads and damage them...

[EDG]

I'm told they gall and strip the steel lock rings so it sounds like time to replace the darn things.

Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the set screws? I know they take a 3/32" allen wrench but that does not tell me the threading.

(I got ticked at the missing allen wrench and bought a 50-pack of allen wrenches the other day, 1 per die set should keep things more convenient!)

The screws are brass and they are self lubricating so they cannot damage the threads of the lock ring.
However they can peen a divot on the die threads. To prevent damage don't tighten the set screw very tight.
Even better is to install a .125 nylon ball under the screw. The nylon is elastic and will release its grip if you back off the screw. Lead shot does not easily release because it is not elastic.

I agree with buying a wrench for each die set.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Hmm, I will have to figure out where to find .125 nylon balls, I can start with #7-1/2 lead shot for now as I can get the rings to release, pretty much guaranteed. Have to find some shot tho :P

[lightman]

A trick that I learned long ago was to loosen the set screw and tap it with a plastic mallet. That makes the lead shot back off of the threads. And no, I'm not smart enough to have discovered that trick. I think I may have read about it in an old gun magazine?

[NoAngel]

I’ve yet to figure out why it’s so important to have a locking lock ring. It takes less than a minute to adjust a die and snug the lock ring down.

[Moosegooser]

I dont understand the need to use the set screw at all.. I have never used them on any die I have, and have been loading for a long time. A .25 cent O-ring under the lock ring will set the die and will not allow the adjustment to change. Rarely do I ever full length size and "cam over" the press. but if I do, tightening the nock ring down a tight finger tight while the press is "Cammed over" locks everything securely in place. I measure headspace,and find the o-ring makes it extremely easy to get very fine precise adjustments to settings,,just bumping the shoulder back a thousandth or two..

[EDG]

Apparently many of you do not exercise much precision when setting your dies. So you might be hand gun shooters with only straight walled cases. I have FL dies that took 30 min to an hour to set exactly match my rifle chambers. I can set them to the nearest .001 and every case will be perfectly sized. Ammo is more accurate and cases last longer.

[JSnover]

I'm with the guys who don't over-tighten them to begin with but if you're in the habit of setting and re-setting and you don't have shot or pellets you can substitute other items. Any small chunk of plastic would work as a thread saver. Or a bit of copper wire, hammered more or less flat.

[Soundguy]

I dont understand the need to use the set screw at all.. I have never used them on any die I have, and have been loading for a long time. A .25 cent O-ring under the lock ring will set the die and will not allow the adjustment to change. Rarely do I ever full length size and "cam over" the press. but if I do, tightening the nock ring down a tight finger tight while the press is "Cammed over" locks everything securely in place. I measure headspace,and find the o-ring makes it extremely easy to get very fine precise adjustments to settings,,just bumping the shoulder back a thousandth or two..

It may keep the die set in that press, but if you pull that die out, it wont go back in perfect because that non licked ring will move.

[Moosegooser]

I don't care! I actually back off the original position, then slowly lower the die as I measure head space with a gauge.. each time I size.. I record the measurement,, and size till I get exact measurement each time.

[MT Chambers]

All my dies wear Forster cross locking rings for use in the Co-ax.

[Mr_Sheesh]

I have FL bottleneck rifle dies that have been set in the exact same position since at least 1963ish; Set to neck size or seat for one rifle that didn't get stolen (Family members SIGH.) I'd just as soon not have to mess with it every time I load a few custom rounds for that, and especially rather not mangle my brass etc. due to 1 screw being loose. If you change presses you do have to adjust things, but otherwise lock rings should be locked :)

[Moosegooser]

I can record the measurement from the back of the case to a point on the shoulder of a fired case from my rifle... This is a fire formed duplicate of my chamber,, or pretty close to one..... I install my die, and turn it down, till that shoulder measurement, (Headspace) decreases by 1 0r 2 thousandths. The O-ring is up against the press, centering, and squaring the die, the lock ring has tension against that, and allows me to very precisely lower the die till I achieve the correct measurement.. that measurement will not change. the friction of the O-ring, keeps the die centered ,square, and at the proper depth..
My press is spared the wear and tear of" camming over " annnd I don't over work my brass.. they last a Long Long time..
Pretty basic stuff really.

Mr Sheesh.. have you not dis -assembled your dies and completely cleaned them since 63 ish?

I actually clean my dies each time I resize. Remove stem ,,spray out die with gunscrubber,, clean, lightly polish expander ball with semichrome ,then lightly grease it.. I am not worried about the previous setting. I have my rifles headspace measurement recorded..

I don't understand wegdging a steel screw against the die threads ... It jus not necessary..

[KMac]

I changed a few out to the Hornady rings. I like them better. I believe Sinclair sells some that are round but still have the crosslock feature.
And I have also changed all of mine to the Hornady rings. I really like them better than the RCBS rings.

[JSnover]

I don't understand wegdging a steel screw against the die threads ... It jus not necessary..
It's convenient for people who only have one press and numerous dies. If the rings are locked they can just screw one set out and screw the other set in.

[EDG]

I'm with the guys who don't over-tighten them to begin with but if you're in the habit of setting and re-setting and you don't have shot or pellets you can substitute other items. Any small chunk of plastic would work as a thread saver. Or a bit of copper wire, hammered more or less flat.

The first place I have seen the nylon balls used was the chromed Lyman dies of the 1960s. I have bought 8-32 nylon screws and cut off short pieces with side cutters to use when nylon balls were not available.
I know how to loosen lead shot by whacking the die but nylon is a much better material.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Cleaned, yes; How does cleaning them require that I remove the lock rings, though? (And you can fix the other parts together so you don't lose settings, as well.) I just don't see having to chase the same problem over and over; That's why I set the low idle up on my car instead of having to push on the gas pedal to keep the car running, that's why I have a fridge instead of an ice box, and that's why I learned to reload instead of having to buy ammo by the box. Some call it "laziness' but an awful lot of people call it "being smart"; Make LESS work for yourself instead of far more. Do things smart instead of the hardest way possible, and so on.) If you REALLY want to do things the hard way, sell your rifles and just manually insert the bullets into the game animals :P

[Moosegooser]

Cleaned, yes; How does cleaning them require that I remove the lock rings, though? (And you can fix the other parts together so you don't lose settings, as well.) I just don't see having to chase the same problem over and over; That's why I set the low idle up on my car instead of having to push on the gas pedal to keep the car running, that's why I have a fridge instead of an ice box, and that's why I learned to reload instead of having to buy ammo by the box. Some call it "laziness' but an awful lot of people call it "being smart"; Make LESS work for yourself instead of far more. Do things smart instead of the hardest way possible, and so on.) If you REALLY want to do things the hard way, sell your rifles and just manually insert the bullets into the game animals :P

Do you lock the seating depth stem also? or is it a burden for you to adjust settings for different lengths? .0213 jump regards...:)

[lightman]

And I have also changed all of mine to the Hornady rings. I really like them better than the RCBS rings.

I like the Hornady and Sinclair rings better too! But not enough to buy a bunch. I've never had any trouble with any of my RCBS or Redding rings. The ones that I don't like are the ones with the "O" ring. It just seems like a fix for a nonexistent problem.

[KMac]

I like the Hornady and Sinclair rings better too! But not enough to buy a bunch. I've never had any trouble with any of my RCBS or Redding rings. The ones that I don't like are the ones with the "O" ring. It just seems like a fix for a nonexistent problem.

I don’t need them, I just like them enough for me to justify buying them.
And I have them on all of my Lee dies and most of my RCBS and Redding dies too. When I trade or sell a set of dies I put the original rings back on and reuse the Hornady rings on another set of dies.

[Soundguy]

Cleaned, yes; How does cleaning them require that I remove the lock rings, though? (And you can fix the other parts together so you don't lose settings, as well.) I just don't see having to chase the same problem over and over; That's why I set the low idle up on my car instead of having to push on the gas pedal to keep the car running, that's why I have a fridge instead of an ice box, and that's why I learned to reload instead of having to buy ammo by the box. Some call it "laziness' but an awful lot of people call it "being smart"; Make LESS work for yourself instead of far more. Do things smart instead of the hardest way possible, and so on.) If you REALLY want to do things the hard way, sell your rifles and just manually insert the bullets into the game animals :P

Remember.. Some people only know the hard way.

I'm slowly converting my most used die sets over to the turret press heads.

[Kenstone]

Just to get back on track...:oops:
Insert a short piece of plastic wire insulation into the hole of the lock ring before the set screw for a cushion.
A piece of wire and way to strip it, are things most people have so there's nothing to source/buy/spend money on.

Being cheap is what re-loaders are known for...er using something we already have.
:bigsmyl2:

[mdi]

All my dies wear Forster cross locking rings for use in the Co-ax.

Mine too. I guess being a professional wrench turner for most of my life I have no patience with "Primitive Pete" methods for any screw bolt nut, pin, key or other mechanical fastener. A lot of fellers have offered their solutions, but the best method I've found is to use a set screw designed to hold without damage. Nylon tipped, hex socket set screws are perfect and cheap...

[Moleman-]

I like the Hornady rings and think it's the best part of their whole die series. They go on sale from time to time and I'll buy 10 or so and replace the nuts on the die sets I've bought over the year. Seems I buy more die sets than loc-rings though so only the most used ones get them first. Once they're set they don't move. Which is why their whole LNL bushing system seems stupid to me other than as a marketing thing to get you to buy more stuff from them. I'd rather they did die heads on their progressive machines. I've got an lathe and have made a couple hornady style loc-rings, but for what you can get them for on sale it's not worth the bother of making them.

[Moosegooser]

Mine too. I guess being a professional wrench turner for most of my life I have no patience with "Primitive Pete" methods for any screw bolt nut, pin, key or other mechanical fastener. A lot of fellers have offered their solutions, but the best method I've found is to use a set screw designed to hold without damage. Nylon tipped, hex socket set screws are perfect and cheap...

Aerospace toolmaker for 35 years... I like precision... I will take what ever means I must to get it.. I measure it precisely also.. Primitive Pete regards..

[Moosegooser]

2 rifles,,, same caliber ,, different actions. 1 set of dies.. just call me "loose Nuts" :)

[Moosegooser]

I respect the effort made my a toolmaker working for a company that manufactures precision tooling. I know very well what he must deal with on a daily basis to keep his job. attention to detain, and a high degree of skill and craftsmanship..Its a "Brotherhood" thing...I start with CLEAN dies..Some brands, (RCBS) have a "vent hole " in die body that I like to clean occasionally.. It is usually located under your locked ring, if you full length size with press set to "cam over". Rings need removed to clean hole out.. I ultrasonic clean these dies. this is result of a die, that most of you would have considered perfectly clean , but the alcohol color shows the filth.. after 4 minutes in ultrasonic cleaner..

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more to come... Only if interested, otherwise just ignore..

[Moosegooser]

I search for precision. Sometimes, it takes a bit of unconventional thinking to achieve.. It more than reloading.. its Hand loading..
My press is a pristine 35year old single stage RCBS Rock chucker 2. It has been babied. very seldom set for a hard "cam Over" to size brass.. I check each case as it comes out of die to see if I am introducing concentricity issues,and to make sure I am just bumping shoulder back minimally. (.001 to .002 thousandths.) I precisly measure this distance. (heasdspace) Here are picture of tooling I made to check concentricity, and 2 different ways to accurately measure the shoulder.. 1 using dial caliper (Brown and Sharp) and the other method using Starrett micrometer..
Indicator is an Interapid .0005 division
210147

210148

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[Moosegooser]

Concentricity is held to .001 or less T.I.R. I do this by de priming all cases manually not using dies, but a sacrificial decaping stem, and a drill press.. I then tumble cases clean. install FL sizing die in my press with O-Ring under both the lock ring, and the expander ball stem lock ring... I back the expander adjustment allthe way back so expander is at top of inside of die.. I size the case, measuring the shoulder, and adjusting die down with friction of O-ring, keeping die centered, and square. I precicly turn die down till I achieve my measurement.. With the case is in the die,,and at proper depth, I adjust the expander ballstem (back it out), so the case is still engaged in die and ball just starts into neck . What this does,is accurately places the case in center of die,,and then as expander ball is drawn back through case neck the case is engaged in die and the expander ball is located dead center in the neck.. SIMULTANEOUSLY .. There is an O-Ring under the lock nut of expander ball stem keeping things centered.. I double check cases to make sure I have achieved minimal run out.. (Concentricity gauge)

Here is the result of effort.. This group(5 shots) is shot out of a Lowly Ruger 77, factory barrel, sloppy chamber. Ammo manufactured from a simple single stage press, STANDARD dies (35 yrs old),,but with a bit of care and respect to the accuracy of tooling..

210154

[Moosegooser]

I do not know why pictures loaded sideways.. That's not Toolmaker work,, but rather more "office folk" stuff.. :)

[Moosegooser]

I have never been able to lock rings in place,, (keeping thread on topic) and get this type of accuracy REPETED ,,,, (not to mention, being able to slowly and precisely bump should back .001) from one loading session to another.. I am just as carful charging cases,, and seating bullets.. I keep concentricity to a close tolerance.. anything mor than .002 T.I.R are set aside and shot as foul rounds..
I do turn my necks, (65% clean up) 1 time, after I initially full length size brass unfamiliar to my rifles chamber. prolly unecessary for a factory chamber,, but it makes me feel good.. :)
I consider my methods VERY basic... just good practice.. and analyzing what I am doing and why..

My brass lasts forever,, and is worked minimally.. Press loves it.. no undo force created..

[Moosegooser]

Merry Christmas everyone..

[Hardcast416taylor]

It may have cost me a `few` bucks, but I bought enough Hornady split rings to replace all the RCBS rings with the set screw. I even changed all the Lyman lock rings, in all I changed out 35 die sets some having 3 or more dies.Robert

[2011redrider]

Mine too. I guess being a professional wrench turner for most of my life I have no patience with "Primitive Pete" methods for any screw bolt nut, pin, key or other mechanical fastener. A lot of fellers have offered their solutions, but the best method I've found is to use a set screw designed to hold without damage. Nylon tipped, hex socket set screws are perfect and cheap...

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0154121?term=10-32+x+3%2F16+set+screws&r=~%7Csattr06:%5E%22Nylon%20Tip%22$%7C~

12 cents each, just ordered 100!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Aerospace toolmaker for 35 years... I like precision... I will take what ever means I must to get it.. I measure it precisely also.. Primitive Pete regards..


2 rifles,,, same caliber ,, different actions. 1 set of dies.. just call me "loose Nuts" :)


Merry Christmas everyone..

loose Nuts,

Welcome to the forum.
you are quite the interesting character.

Merry Christmas.

[Pilgrim Sojourner]

For those of you that use O-rings beneath your dies, what are the O-ring dimensions?

[Moosegooser]

For those of you that use O-rings beneath your dies, what are the O-ring dimensions?


-118 (.103 cross section) for die body under lock ring
-010 (.070 cross section) for expander stem


https://www.boydcorp.com/orings/o-ring-size-chart.html

[Moosegooser]

loose Nuts,

Welcome to the forum.
you are quite the interesting character.

Merry Christmas.

:)

as long as I remember my meds,, most folks put up with me.. just kinda..

I have lurked here since we all was rubbing stones together to make points... Just recently got well enough that the home tht keeps me gave me computer priviledge.. I have to leave my room though, so, I get nervous that they will find my Scotch stash,,and I will get put back in the hole..

[Pilgrim Sojourner]

-118 (.103 cross section) for die body under lock ring
-010 (.070 cross section) for expander stem


https://www.boydcorp.com/orings/o-ring-size-chart.html

Much obliged Moose.

[bbogue1]

lightman - Thank you. Schedule here is as messed up as the rest of everything, maybe I can just mail order those :)

You most likely have a Tacoma Screw Products in your neighborhood. Take the allen screw in there take a number and when your turn comes ask for a brass tip they sell for allen screws. Buy several. Most likely you'll walk out of there for under $2

[EDG]

There are plenty of fastener vendors on line so you don't have to go anywhere to get what you need.

[castalott]

[QUOTE

Being cheap is what re-loaders are known for...er using something we already have.
:bigsmyl2:[/QUOTE]

Hey, I resemble that statement....[smilie=s: Merry Xmas All... Dale

[Mr_Sheesh]

Moosegooser - Easier to show than tell & I'm just trying to enjoy this holiday.

Definitely Tacoma Screw places around here; Don't get the discount I used to get any more, but used to their places. Tacoma isn't THAT far south of here, really. :)

[Moosegooser]

A friend of mine saw my post here, and sent me this link to a video.. I convinced him to ditch locking, lockrings long ago.. I m not trying to convert anyone here.. Just putting out something to think about. In this video, the author talks about internal set scres on lock rings and what he does with them. He also shows what he does like in a lock ring. Many here have agreed with him,and replace their rings with a similar type... But,,,,, :) Notice the segment in Video when he talks about measuring concentricity, and what to do if you don't end up with a concentric case after it has been sized... He talks about ALINGMENT of die to ram, and suggests a way to help a person set the die "SQUARE" to the ram,,and then "LOCK" the ring down.... What the O_Ring under the unlocked locking does,,is AUTOMATICALLY Squares the die up, and , keeps the slack, (Backlash) in the thread, in the same direction. It allows a very smooth and precise method to adjust die down to get the proper headspace measurement. Once you get there ,you don't tighten anything,,,and the settings stays put.

I have also found thru extensive fiddling with accurately measuring headspace, and concentricity, that with concentricity issues, the most common problem is when the expander ball is pulled back through the case neck. If it,, (expander ball) isn't clean,, (In conjunction with the die) and polished, and lightly lubed, and that disregard of method, causes an uneven pull, making squaulking noises, or a considerable amount of force to complete the action,,, it stretches the sized shoulder away from the proper setting, and kicks the neck out of center,,, thus run out, and difficulty obtaining that minimal headspace number you are after.. Most reloaders don't check concentricity.. they are only concerned on making ammo that goes BANG,, and being able to place 10 shots on a small paper plate at 100 yrs.. Nothing wrong with that.. Your deer, elk,, or coyote wont know the difference..

Heres the video... if you are vaguely interested , pay attention to his comments as far as discovering a non concentric case after it has been sized,,and how he sugests to rectify the problem,,, then think about what the O-Rings do..

Again,,,, Not trying to change your religion.... just discussion..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpSNPY3zXfo

[Moosegooser]

There's also the discussion of what to do with a Standard FL sizing die, and what to do with that expander ball stem during sizing..
also the best time to de-cap your brass,and how. Non conventional ways to utilize the prec]scion machined into your dies, to accomplish better ammo..and accuracy.

[Soundguy]

And if you aren't shooting over 300 yards, 99% of the people won't need to worry about that.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Varminting, you DO need to worry about it tho. Unless you like missing yotes and chucks...

[Moosegooser]

.17 CCM At 100 yrds is fun too!

15 grain bullet,,,, 3500 FPS...:)

[Hardcast416taylor]

Varminting, you DO need to worry about it tho. Unless you like missing yotes and chucks...


I just prefer anymore to try calling in a drone air strike.Robert

[Mr_Sheesh]

Interestingly, the 1/8" nylon balls I got are not letting the set screws get into the lock rings; Going to try tapping them with a hammer to flatten them somewhat. Evil auction site or Amazon, the fast sales place, had 100 cheap, for Tattooing (so I now have had ONE thing in my life related to Tattoos LOL) Tapping them should do it. If not, lead shot is next to try. Busy here catching up after being sick for TOO long.

[mdi]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-tip-set-screws/=1btwuz9 These are designed for this situation...

[Mr_Sheesh]

True. Just going to try the other first :)

[2011redrider]

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0154121

I just got these from Fastenal for 12 cents a piece, seems the ones at McMaster are about a buck ea. got 75 of them for under 8 bucks, enough to do all my dies.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Nice cost :)

[salpal48]

I never tighten the set screw. I never set my dies. with every Reloading sessions. i do the entire Process over.

[Soundguy]

You dont mind them moving a bit during operation?

[salpal48]

You don't mind them moving a bit during operation?
Since i use only single state presses and Turrets of different manufacture. it does not make sense for me to set. Even if you set the dies . the position moves somewhat. i have been loading so Long it like second nature. and enjoy it

[Soundguy]

If its moving after locked, you have a problem. When I lock a die in my rcbs rc, its solid, not any bit of movement.

[Taterhead]

Redding, RCBS, Forster, Hornady, Lyman rings all work just fine, and they have their places. The only lock rings I don't use are Lee. When I have used Lee, I have flipped them over since that O-Ring never seems to keep things secure. And of course, there is no reliable provision to store the setting using Lee lock rings.

On progressive presses, RCBS and Lyman lock rings are best. I use a lock ring wrench to snug the lock rings, but don't use the set screws since there is no need. I don't like cross-bolt lock rings on the progressive press.

All of them work just fine for the single stage presses, and most of my dies are RCBS. I like to set them and forget them. The RCBS set screws can mess things up, but are pretty easy to use effectively with a deft touch.

[10mmShooter]

I'm with Salpal, I reset my dies with each installation into the press so the locking ring set screws do nothing for me. I also have learned over the years to go with a lighter touch when tightening dies. I use a really stubby die nut wrench, the handle is only about 4 inches. That keeps me from going ape on the die nuts.

[EDG]

I prefer much more precision for setting my bottle neck FL dies.
They are set to exactly match my bolt gun's chambers to the nearest .001". Once set I never change them.
Dies for pumps, levers and auto loaders are set with .002 clearance. I never change them either.

Straight wall dies are less critical as are seaters.

[Pressman]

In my case, yes it's a bit extreme, I have a press setup permanently for each caliber and operation. Once in the press the dies never have to come out. Of course it takes a separate room to store that many presses.
Ken

[EDG]

I do that for my most important lube sizer dies. I hate changing out the sticky nasty dies.

[red67]

Bumping this thread to the top for other members to see, as I've been interested in adding set screws to my lock rings

I tried the suggested McMaster-Carr link in the beginning of the thread, but the old price of $0.12 each for nylon tipped is now $0.75 each!

I then followed the suggestion for the 10-32 set screws from boltdepot.com. The don't have the nylon tip, but the are only $0.05 each.

I hope other members find this thread as helpful as I did.

[Soundguy]

Sure, info is great!

[mattw]

If you don't want the brass to gall the theads take out the set screw and ad a shotgun pellet ( number 8 shot) in the hole and replace the set screw. That helps to lock the ring in place. Hopefully that solves the problem as I see it.


Yup, been doing this for 20+ years and it works great!

[Conditor22]

After read some of these posts (yes some are old) I wonder how tight you guys are torquing your set screws down. :shock:

[georgerkahn]

Well, I can't help but add a couple of "cents" re what -- after 50+ years of trial and error, I've come to do. I replace all diescrews for powder-measures with 1" one, and use "RCBS-type" -- the 1 1/8" hex ones for other dies. All get a grub screw screwed into one hole I drill, through, one of the flats with a #36 drill, followed with a 6-32 tap. As soon as I put the diescrew on the die, I drop in one piece of lead shot -- I do not know the exact size other than it's what was in a bird-shot 20ga shotshell. One thing I'm pretty OCD about is having the press handle down -- shell be loaded all the way in the die -- before I tighten said screw and then my grub screw. This insures the dies is straight up and down, as well as where I want it to be. I snug the diescrew to press, and use an appropriately sized Allen wrench to snug down the bird-shot under my screw. This secures it, without in any way damaging threads on die. The reason for the smaller (1") screw on powder measure, is to simply make it easier to adjust for shell mouth expansion -- this on a Dillon 550b press. For a few years I used all 1 1/8" dies, with the Dillon 1" wrench in rack collecting dust... most happy I made the switch.
Again, my 2 cents -- just what I do.
geo

[castalott]

I prefer the Hornady rings and actually like the Lee rings for most uses. I use the lead pellet on the rings that must be used with a set screw. No problem there either.

But how about clipping a short section of soft copper wire that just fits the hole? Use the soft copper if you worried about the lead?

[EDG]

The best plug to put under a lock ring set screw is a small nylon ball or a short piece clipped off of a nylon screw. The nylon prevents damage to the threads yet it is elastic enough to release its grip on the die when the screw is backed off.

[Soundguy]

Weed eater string works good too.

[Walks]

I must have 20 different lock rings that need new screws. All types: aluminum, steel and old hex Lyman ones that take smaller set screws then the modern style of straight-in or clamp such a Hornady now uses.
Would be nice to get them at working again.

If I had the brains to figure out what size I needed.

[PbHurler]

Weed eater string works good too.

Simple, available & brilliant suggestion. Thanks!

I think I may change out my lead shot(s) with this...

[Soundguy]

Its what I use. I have a large spool and wind my own bobbins for the weed water. One day it hit me..dang, I have a 500' spool of this.. This would be great.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Good idea.

[Bazoo]

This was a very interesting discussion. I mostly use Hornady style lock rings if I got them. I have some that are aluminum, I think they are RCBS but I'm not sure. They are easier to use than the steel split rings with a cross screw. I have some RCBS rings with the brass set screw, they don't have a brass disc under them though. Hasn't seemed to cause any thread damage yet, I'm gentle with them though.

Lightman, thanks for the tip on loosening up the rings that have shot under them. Lots of older sets I come across have that.

Anybody try the Hornady style split lock rings made out of nylon/plastic? There are folks selling them on ebay, they look 3-D printed. Maybe not, they are cheap but I can't imagine the lock screw not stripping the plastic out after a while.

[Mr_Sheesh]

If you 3d printed a lock ring you could put an insert or nut in there to make it last "forever" if you designed it right.

[doulos]

I went the easy and simple route. Ordered some Sinclair and Hornady rings. Didnt order them all at once. But i make enough orders for other stuff I would add a set of rings now and then. Probably dont have as many dies sets as many here but I have replaced them all now. I never liked the Rcbs rings. I did bugger a thread on a die with one. But then I could probably break an anvil. Or as they say"he has the touch of a blacksmith".

[David2011]

When I got really tired of screwing dies in and out of my Rock Chucker I invested in Hornady Lock 'n Load bushings. Most of my rifle dies as well as the low volume handgun cartridges now wear the LnL bushings. If I make a mistake that I can repair it's a quick matter to pull one die, install another and go back to the original in just seconds. Before I retired time really was that important. It now doesn't matter if I spend an extra 15 minutes in the reloading room. When I was working I was also trying to maintain ammo for USPSA, Cowboy Action, big game hunting (deer/pigs/exotics in Texas) and handgun sidearm ammo for hunting.

The accuracy with the LnL bushings is as good as it was with the dies screwed into the press. The metal to metal surfaces keep the dies square and the o-ring allows for a few thousandths of floating for concentricity. My hunting rifle will still hold under .400" groups using the bushings.

I've shot far more handgun than rifle over the years but all of the dies I screwed into the press had locking rings, rifle or pistol. Once I find a combination that works I get a substantial inventory of the bullet that works well so no further adjustments are needed. I don't get bonus points for making extra work for myself.

When I do use locking rings I like the cross bolt style. Some dies like the RCBS Collet Bullet Puller, Lee Universal Decapping Die and the Lead Hardness Tester don't have critical setting requirements so anything works for them. I keep those in Hornady bushings for ease of use.

[Bazoo]

In my previous post I said I'd not experienced any problems with the brass set screws not having anything under them. Well now I have. I pulled the ring off my 45 sizer to find the brass set screw had damaged the threads. I must have cranked on it and I don't know why as I know it don't need that much.

[David2011]

Bazoo, hopefully it will clean up with a fine 60-60-60 degree triangular file. Good luck!

[Bazoo]

I cleaned it with a needle file and some fine sandpaper. Looks bad but the ring turns around it without a problem. Die set was brand new when I bought it off the forum here. Makes me sick. I've loaded bout 500 rounds on the set. I took it out to fix a factory bullet that got set back when loaded.

[EDG]

You will damage a file with most case hardened dies. Just get a nice 3 sided India stone and it will mow off the burrs.

[Bazoo]

Anyone know what size the old Lyman hex lock ring set screws are, the smaller ones? I took my ring down to ace hardware and got a couple 8-32 set screws. They started in the ring several turns but wouldn't go any further (by finger) so I thought it just had some lead galling in the threads. Got it home and it's a no go. Is it something weird? Can I run an 8-32 tap in the hole and fix it?

[EDG]

I checked my old Lyman hex lock rings and they are 8-32.

Just run an 8-32 tap into your rings.




Anyone know what size the old Lyman hex lock ring set screws are, the smaller ones? I took my ring down to ace hardware and got a couple 8-32 set screws. They started in the ring several turns but wouldn't go any further (by finger) so I thought it just had some lead galling in the threads. Got it home and it's a no go. Is it something weird? Can I run an 8-32 tap in the hole and fix it?