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View Full Version : Created a self contained (Everything inside) PID 4 the Lee 4-20 using Arduino



Acidia609
12-21-2017, 10:33 AM
Hello Casters and Reloaders,
I wanted to share my project I've created. I set forth in a journey to create a more accurate PID controller for our lead pots that can be modified to user preference ie. Monitor and controll lead melt and monitor bullet mold, Turn lead pot on or off wifi. The pot is controlled via a powerfull open source mini computer called an Arduino. Adding a MAX6675 module allows the Thermocouple to provide signals to this micro CPU. One big advantage is its cheaper and it's all inside the pot saving valuable workspace.

Check it out here:
https://youtu.be/Mh-85vxrT3o

Arduino codes provided in the description if you wanna tackle on this. Let me know whatcha think?
Add a like to the vid

flyer1
12-22-2017, 01:11 AM
Thanks. I would really like to try this. I have never tried anything like this before.

MaryB
12-22-2017, 10:52 PM
The little micros are fun to play with because you can really customize things to what you want. I have 3 or 4 of them laying around that get recycled back into projects.

KenH
12-23-2017, 12:18 AM
That's slick! I've used the Arduino for several projects - normally design a PCB board, put the m168 chip on board and go from there rather than use the Arduino for the project. Less expensive that way. I've not done an Arduino project in 2 or 3 yrs now - need to find time to do another. Good job!

DerekP Houston
12-23-2017, 06:42 AM
looks like a slick build, thanks for posting the video.

Handloader109
12-23-2017, 02:11 PM
Interesting use for an arduino controller. A couple of nits. While I do like the idea of it being built on top of the original controller, heat defiantly is not a friendly of that controller or display. One errant splash and its done. Your technique of dropping the sprue back into the pot like you show will get you or your display splashed. Matter of time.

OH, and unless your arduino was free it isn't cheaper. My setup cost less than the arduino base unit.

And that mold should be opened by hand if that nice controller is set properly. I have three and I never beat on them after temp is up. (yes initial half dozen castings are difficult, but hit on the bolt at handle not sprue plate to drop. Just saying... Mold will last a lot longer.

dragon813gt
12-23-2017, 02:57 PM
Wondering out of curiosity. Did you write the PID loop math functions? Or does it have them out of the box? Ran into many problems at work w/ both AB and Siemens PLCs when our programmers decided they could do a better job by writing the loops themselves. That was a complete failure.

Acidia609
12-23-2017, 10:50 PM
Interesting use for an arduino controller. A couple of nits. While I do like the idea of it being built on top of the original controller, heat defiantly is not a friendly of that controller or display. One errant splash and its done. Your technique of dropping the sprue back into the pot like you show will get you or your display splashed. Matter of time.

OH, and unless your arduino was free it isn't cheaper. My setup cost less than the arduino base unit.

And that mold should be opened by hand if that nice controller is set properly. I have three and I never beat on them after temp is up. (yes initial half dozen castings are difficult, but hit on the bolt at handle not sprue plate to drop. Just saying... Mold will last a lot longer.

Actually if you price out the parts like I have comparing both Johnny Reloading Bench write up. It is CHEAPER. You dont have to buy a project box. And like I've mention you can re purpose old electronics. Currently I swapped over to the Arduino Nano which you can buy 3 for under 12$.. Other parts like 1k POT and AC/DC converter are common found household electronics
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0713XK923/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514083172&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arduino+nano&psc=1
Other than that you'll need a thermocouple adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HT871SO/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1514083370&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
And a I2C LCD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E4YUT3K/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1514083445&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
Control relay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VRUAHLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1514084140&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+relay+board
Looking at around 35-40$ built.

And yup mold was just a tad cold and I hit the nut on the handle when releasing boolits. Still a little new to casting and working on techniques... Gotta start somewhere. Thanks for the advice!

Acidia609
12-23-2017, 10:55 PM
Wondering out of curiosity. Did you write the PID loop math functions? Or does it have them out of the box? Ran into many problems at work w/ both AB and Siemens PLCs when our programmers decided they could do a better job by writing the loops themselves. That was a complete failure.

Actually I started with If, else statements and ran the relay in series with the Lee thermostat for thermal runaway protection. Found that it runs extremely accurate that way also. So far ive been messing with Chris's code and the autotune feature he wrote is actually pretty cool. Im currently working on a swivel mount to move the LCD away from the heat. Possiblilities are endless.

Almost got it dialed in the way I want. Basically ill eventually take the code and program some mnemonics and sub routines on a simple Intel 8085 and have a PCB made for the adapter and relay. Should make it even more compact with less wires