Remington 1100 bead and base

[Boolit_Head]

Let me start this off as this began as a ugly duckling project I found lurking in the dusty back rack of a pawn shop. You know the places guns go to die when no one wants them. Seems what ever heartless person before me had taken a 1969 Remington 1100 and chopped off the barrel at around 20 inches and never bothered to clean it up much. It was pretty badly done at a angle. The wood stock had some dents and dings. But alas for a paltry sum it followed me home.

Not long after a new barrel with screw in chokes came my way and I started using it and the old 20 inch barrel sat on the side. A couple of more 1100's in various gauges and trim joined it and somewhere along the way a Synthetic stock came in part of a trade. Well I put the synthetic on after deciding the dents in the wood stock were a bit to big to resurrect dang it if that didn't turn into my favorite shotgun. I've got others worth 4 times more but I shoot better what that old ugly duckling.

At some point I cleaned up the muzzle of the 20 inch barrel and got to thinking about replacing the ramp and bead on it. I'm thinking sweating on a new ramp might be a touch beyond me considering it has to get lined up and all. Anyone have a idea where to send it and about how much this should run?

[country gent]

One thing to remember if your soldering it on is its easy enough to "adjust" if its not right the first time. A little heat the sight comes of and can be moved and resoldered. With a center head, good vise and patience, the front base can be positioned at 12:00 on the barrel and a small clamp then soldered. ( you might be able to use a wrap of wire to hold base in position even). Clean bluing from barrel and apply a layer of flux. sit base on in eyeballed position. cradle muzzle blade high enough to be above base and bead In Vee of center head and bead. If firearm is leveled and venter head is leveled it should be very close to dead 12:00. half of base should show. Clamp snug in place and solder. If your center head dosnt have a level in it tape a squares blade to the blade of the center head so it can be seen easily.
Test fire for zero with the rear sight centered for wind and adjust from there. once set, clean up excess solder and reblue if needed.

[John 242]

Anyone have a idea where to send it and about how much this should run?

Boolit Head, what you're needing done isn't especially complicated, nor are there a lot of materials required. I would think that any competent gunsmith local to you could handle the job. What that person would charge is hard to say, but $40 to $80 sounds reasonable, but you'd have to shop around and see what the going rates are for your local area. Refinishing the barrel would obviously be more.

Country Gent, or anyone else, what would you recommend for solder?
I'm thinking Hi-Force 44, so that if the barrel were to be reblued in caustic salts, the sight base won't fall off. Curious as to what you would use. Any particular flux?
I've only goofed around with soldering, but it's on my list of "things to practice."

[country gent]

I would look at various silver solders and the properties along with temps for them. The foils or thin sheets can make this job much easier as a piece is cut to needed size fluxed and assembled in place. then heat applied. Done right you get a small even bead all around the soldered joint.

[izzyjoe]

Got a love those 1100's!

[Boolit_Head]

Boolit Head, what you're needing done isn't especially complicated, nor are there a lot of materials required. I would think that any competent gunsmith local to you could handle the job. What that person would charge is hard to say, but $40 to $80 sounds reasonable, but you'd have to shop around and see what the going rates are for your local area. Refinishing the barrel would obviously be more.




Oh we have several capable but their waiting list is usually 6 months long.

[John 242]

I would look at various silver solders and the properties along with temps for them. The foils or thin sheets can make this job much easier as a piece is cut to needed size fluxed and assembled in place. then heat applied. Done right you get a small even bead all around the soldered joint.

Cool beans, thanks for the reply. Makes a lot of sense to use ribbon.

[John 242]

Oh we have several capable but their waiting list is usually 6 months long.
I'm sorry. Although just a barrel, it would kinda be a bummer to have to mail it off to somebody and pay shipping for a fairly straight forward job.

[Drm50]

I've cut and soldered sights on many shotguns. Mostly making slug guns. I used Brownell Low
temp silver solder and their flux. As with all solder jobs good prep is important, you need bare
metal and clean surfaces. I wouldn't be spending $80 & shipping for a whacked 1100 barrel, you
are getting to price of a good used barrel.

[Boolit_Head]

Used barrels are at least two bills so there is some leeway. Heck if it was close enough to drive to drop it off I'd call it a weekend getaway and not count the gas money. :)

[izzyjoe]

I bought a new barrel for my 1100 from midway, and it was $240. 26" with three chokes, it's become my favorite shotgun now that it shed that 30" barrel!

[runfiverun]

it would maybe be worth mailing off if they were gonna square things up and cut it for choke tubes?

[msinc]

I have done quite a few of these. The little double ended ramp and bead are available from Brownell's. The problem is not soldering it on...that is the easy part. The real problem is refinishing the barrel when you are done. It now has to be either blued, parkerized or have some sort of paint, Gunkote, Cerra-coat, etc. applied. I would also install Rem-Chokes at this time too...if you are going spend money on this barrel.
Personally, I have never spent more than $75.00-$100.00 to get a used spare barrel to make a home defense type out of. Now a good vent rib polished and blued barrel is definitely a lot more.
I mean, if you have to have this thing and you are really going to use it then send it out and get it done....but, I see and have done many of these barrels that just end up getting thrown in the closet and never used at all. I always cut a long forcing cone in the barrel too. You can tie up some cabbage in one of these specialty barrels only to hardly ever use the thing. Always a neat accessory to have though. Where are you located????

[Boolit_Head]

I doubt the forcing cone modification would be worth it and I am not sure it is thick enough for the Remchokes. I'd be happy with the cylinder bore as it is just need a aiming point. Preferably not just a bead screwed to the barrel in as it would be to low. Texas is a ways from Maryland so I suspect you were going to offer something so Thanks but probably to far.

[edp2k]

Maybe cruise around on Brownells and see if you can find a ring-like clamp on front sight with base?