Stripping paint off of a triumph reciever

[michael.birdsley]

About three years ago I was taking my triumph muzzle loader apart. Accidentally took a brass hammer and marred some metal ( not very bright). I was able to fix that with diamond files, stone, and Brillo pad cant really tell the mistake. Repainted and clear coated it with hardware store spray paint. Most of it still there but, is starting to scratch and chip. I want to strip the paint completely and buy dura coat or somthing similar from midway or brownells. Could I sand blast the paint off the reciever with either baking soda or fine sand with out rounding anything off or other damage. If not what type of stripper should I use?


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[colchester]

Cerakote, durakote or gunkote all recommend blasting with alox 80-120grit. I have had great results blasting before coating without apparent degradation of the surface. The coatings mentioned above like to have a "rough" faceted surface to grab on to. Prefer KG gunkote myself for ease of application

[michael.birdsley]

Cerakote, durakote or gunkote all recommend blasting with alox 80-120grit. I have had great results blasting before coating without apparent degradation of the surface. The coatings mentioned above like to have a "rough" faceted surface to grab on to. Prefer KG gunkote myself for ease of application

Forgive my ignorance is Alox aluminum oxide? If I go the brownells gun KOTE rout I have a convection oven. But can I lay it on the racks or do I have to find a way of suspending so the paint isn’t touching?


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[mac60]

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/air-cure-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx

I have used the stuff in the link above. It's easy to use and tough as nails. It doesn't require the use of an oven, but it does take about a week to fully cure.

[waksupi]

Boat and Aircraft stripper from Sherwin Williams will work.

[colchester]

Forgive my ignorance is Alox aluminum oxide? If I go the brownells gun KOTE rout I have a convection oven. But can I lay it on the racks or do I have to find a way of suspending so the paint isn’t touching?


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Yes it is aluminum oxide. You might be ok on the rack but I would try to find a way to hang the parts

[michael.birdsley]

Yes it is aluminum oxide. You might be ok on the rack but I would try to find a way to hang the parts

There is only one part that needs to be hanged which is the reciever I guess I could run some wire through the roll pin holes.


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[michael.birdsley]

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/air-cure-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx

I have used the stuff in the link above. It's easy to use and tough as nails. It doesn't require the use of an oven, but it does take about a week to fully cure.

How many coats do you usually use. It says to add a coat once dry but, if you don’t do it within 30 minutes wait 7 days. Which I guess isnt really a big deal deer hunting will be over soon.


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[mac60]

How many coats do you usually use. It says to add a coat once dry but, if you don’t do it within 30 minutes wait 7 days. Which I guess isnt really a big deal deer hunting will be over soon.


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If I remember correctly, I used 2 coats within the 30 min. - waiting a few minutes between coats. It would take Brownell's at least a few days to get it to you, so if you're trying to get it done quick it might not be an option for you. It is good stuff though.

[michael.birdsley]

If I remember correctly, I used 2 coats within the 30 min. - waiting a few minutes between coats. It would take Brownell's at least a few days to get it to you, so if you're trying to get it done quick it might not be an option for you. It is good stuff though.

I am contemplating all of the options right now. But, I’m kinda leaning towards either dura Cote or gun KOTE from brownells. I will not be in a hurry to get it done. I think I will be building a spray paint and sand blasting booth first. Than on to a couple of other projects after I get my triumph done


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[michael.birdsley]

Next question after blasting the part is acetone good for wiping it down or do you need somthing better ?


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[colchester]

Next question after blasting the part is acetone good for wiping it down or do you need somthing better ?


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When I use gunkote I usually go from the blast cabinet to the park tank and then apply the gunkote. Park is not necessary but I like the results I get so I do it. If im not going to park I would just blow the part clean with compressed air. The important thing is to be sure the part is thoroughly clean and degreased before you blast it otherwise your spreading the grease/oil or dirt all over the parts you blast. You need to keep the media clean. Once you blast the part that is about as clean as it will be as long as it was clean when you started. The procedure for cerakote or duracote might be different but this is how I do Gunkote

[David2011]

Using Duracote I blast with aluminum oxide and then degrease with their recommended solvent. Since it's a catalyzed product it cures thoroughly without heat and is easily applied with an inexpensive airbrush or touchup gun. I use a single action Paasche airbrush. They're around $50 and will last a long time with proper maintenance.

[John 242]

Next question after blasting the part is acetone good for wiping it down or do you need somthing better ?

I've used both Gunkote and Aluma-Hyde II form Brownells a time or two.
I also tried the spray can version of Durakote and it worked very well.

I also use 120-grit aluminum oxide as a blast media and degrease the part before blasting and then again immediately before paint.

For degreasing, Brownells recommends their TCE product, but acetone would work. The spray cans of TCE do a good job of blasting contamination away. You want to hose the part down, literally. You want oils and such to drip away. After the TCE evaporates, look for wet spots around holes and joints. Lingering wetness is likely oil. A hair dryer can be used to evaporate the TCE and pre-heat the part. If you have persistent wetness, you have contamination. Degrease some more.
Wear gloves, you don't want finger oils on your parts after you've degreased them.

Follow the instructions provided with the product you choose. What I do is spray the part in even strokes trying hard not to put down too much paint, yet making sure the coverage is as even as possible. I then check coverage looking for missed areas and then spray again if necessary. The matte finishes flash dry a lot faster than the gloss finishes, which means missed areas can be quickly touched up with the matte paints. However, you may need to be more careful when attempting to touch up missed spots when using glossy paints. Too much wet paint will cause runs. Again, follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
You don't need to build up a ridiculously thick layer of paint, just good, even coverage. Once your happy, bake it. If it comes out of the oven looking bad, blast it off and try again.

It helps if you have good lighting and a place to spray that doesn't have a lot of dust flying around.

I've used a kitchen oven for small parts. Works fine.

For painting, we suspend parts on a short length of black iron wire, which is hooked to a fishing line swivel, that in turn is suspended from what's essentially a curtain rod. The swivel allows you to easily rotate the part by turning the wire. When your done painting your part, unhook the wire from the swivel, carry the part by the wire to your oven, and then suspend the part from cooking rack using the wire. Avoid touching the painted surface.

I've baked Aluma-Hyde II, but at a much lower temperature than Gunkote. Brownells doesn't seem to mention it on their site, and my memory sucks. I'd have to dig out my notes, but regardless, the idea is that the oven speeds the curing time of Aluma-Hyde. After baking, it's cured enough to reassemble, etc. If you have plans to use GunKote or Alumahyde II, call Brownells tech support and ask to speak to Dean Batchelder. If Dean is around, he can help you with any question you have about their paint products and specifically cure times for baking Aluma-hyde or I can get you the info.

One advantage rattle can paints like Aluma-Hyde II is you don't need and airbrush, air compressor or any of the associated hardware. However, like any other painting, you need to be careful not to hose down your part and get runs. Start the spray off the part, move the spray across your part in one motion until your completely off of it. You want a nice long smooth motion. Don't try to get perfect coverage in one shot.
I've seen Aluma-Hyde cans go funky after a while, so I suggest you buy it, use it, but don't plan on keeping a can around long term to use again later.

The Pasche (sic) single action airbrush is the one we use for Gunkote. I bought mine at Hobby Lobby for about $100 but they are available online cheaper. I think Brownells sells them as well.

There are a whole series of videos from Brownells on Youtube about painting, starting with the one below. Lots of good info


https://youtu.be/qa2A-jQlwbw

[michael.birdsley]

Ok thanks. I have a 60 gallon air compressor but, I would have to put a water separator on it I think. Is a water separator from harbor freight good enough?. If I go spray can rout I’ll only use it the one time and than pitch it. My convection oven isn’t that big it is just a small cheap one I bought from Walmart to cure fishing jigs and boolits. What about the spray guns that work off of compressed air? I want to do more projects in the future however, at the moment after I get done with the triumph I have a 1938 Ward’s and western single shot .22 to restore. That’s about it for the moment.


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[TAC14]

Aluma Hide is simple and easy to touch up.

[largom]

Using Duracote I blast with aluminum oxide and then degrease with their recommended solvent. Since it's a catalyzed product it cures thoroughly without heat and is easily applied with an inexpensive airbrush or touchup gun. I use a single action Paasche airbrush. They're around $50 and will last a long time with proper maintenance.

Have done several with the Duracote. Used a Preval sprayer from Lowes, $10.00 last one I bought. Single use sprayer but the air charge lasted for 2 long guns @ 2 or 3 coats each.

Larry

[michael.birdsley]

Have done several with the Duracote. Used a Preval sprayer from Lowes, $10.00 last one I bought. Single use sprayer but the air charge lasted for 2 long guns @ 2 or 3 coats each.

Larry

This might actually be the way to go


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[John 242]

Ok thanks. I have a 60 gallon air compressor but, I would have to put a water separator on it I think. Is a water separator from harbor freight good enough?.

I don't know, but anything is better than nothing. We have a little pancake compressor that is used for spraying the activator for hydro-graphics. It has a cheap aftermarket water separator plumbed in line and it works.

With Gunkote we use an airbrush. I believe the Durakote guys use HVLP sprayers. I assume Cerakote is the same way, but don't know. There are cheap HVLP sprayers you can buy at Harbor Freight. You have a compressor, so you can go the more complicated route and buy equipment, or as others have said, Aluma-Hyde is easy-peasy.

I've used the Durakote in the can and it worked very well. Once activated, it has a limited shelf life. However, I don't keep Aluma-Hyde II around for long, either. I get bad results if I do. Maybe it's just me?

I seem to remember asking a Durakote rep at SHOT how long an activated spray can of Durakote would last and he said something like 6 months. Take that with a grain of salt.

[michael.birdsley]

So up date I am currently building a spray booth it will look somthing like this https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171228/710b096b08af6003d2c54dbc22cc1cad.jpg

How critical is the fan to suck stuff out? I am currently cutting to size, cutting all of the holes, and other bad stuff out of the ply wood that I am salvaging from a crate from work that our Marposs gaging came in. If it is needed I am thinking of one like this https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171228/c3a1d82784a9e51fab6b802766cfe76a.jpg

Edit: I just ordered it. Can’t wait for it to come.


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[michael.birdsley]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171230/e07bcb9edbce46aadeaf1e9230745487.jpg

Spray booth so far. It should be wide enough to get most anything fun related including barrels in there at 30 inches. It will Be nice to have a place to paint stuff. This is built pretty heavy duty. I could have gotten away with smaller dimensional lumber for the braces.


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[michael.birdsley]

Up date. It is coming along bit by bit. Have the blower motor and vent hooked up. Supposed to be Warmer this week and than I will caulk around the vent. When this is done I’ll be tackling stripping and painting my triumph receiver https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180107/ff02595fafb962b973d0804ae6d006bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180107/4a435e608b9516de5c0337e916af6276.jpg


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[michael.birdsley]

Preatty much all done just minor things like caulk, lights, hooking it up the stack in the garage, and paint( prolly wait for spring)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180110/f241c3adfb11e39db6cd87d3c01d543e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180110/8c84c9452cb98f2433e6a19399bafcf3.jpg


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[Shopdog]

A few comments on air line filters,and really suggest further study on them.

Generally,the further from comp tank you install the filter/s,the better.It's a heat thing.You're trying to cool the comp air as much as possible,which makes the job of separating the water and mayo(oil blow by on comp head) much easier.A "fruitjar" separator installed right at the tank may seem logical but,because of the airs heat...it's almost a waste of time.Take that same fruitjar and mount it after 50' of line and you'll see the water come out.This is just a heads up cause,it gets a whole lot more complex(cooling the air for separation) and requires some legwork.Don't put too much faith in manufacturing claims,they aren't in the business of,telling the whole story,further....since every shop has different requirements,it needs to be evaluated on case by case.Good luck with your project.

[michael.birdsley]

A few comments on air line filters,and really suggest further study on them.

Generally,the further from comp tank you install the filter/s,the better.It's a heat thing.You're trying to cool the comp air as much as possible,which makes the job of separating the water and mayo(oil blow by on comp head) much easier.A "fruitjar" separator installed right at the tank may seem logical but,because of the airs heat...it's almost a waste of time.Take that same fruitjar and mount it after 50' of line and you'll see the water come out.This is just a heads up cause,it gets a whole lot more complex(cooling the air for separation) and requires some legwork.Don't put too much faith in manufacturing claims,they aren't in the business of,telling the whole story,further....since every shop has different requirements,it needs to be evaluated on case by case.Good luck with your project.

That makes sense because, you are not going to make water untill that air gets cold enough for condensation. So the filter at the tank is useless. Yes I’ll have to look further into this.


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[Shopdog]

Michael,two things that air does "better" than moisture;

One is gravity.In an abstract sense,if you had a straight up vertical air line,at some point of travel the moisture separates out because it's heavier.Think,a small...moisture ladened,overwhelmed pancake compressor being used on a hot,humid day.It's on the ground,and we're using a nailgun on a 2nd story roof.Moisture generally won't make it to the gun.The opposite would be a problem,having the line,"draining"...towards the nailgun,spraygun,media blaster,etc.

The next "trick" is,air can change direction,WAY faster than the moisture.Look up images of old Sailor Bealle (sp) air compressors.You're looking for these aluminum,finned expansion tanks that are located just after the comp head,but before the tank.They're alum/finned to dissipate heat....doh.But what you aren't seeing is the tube arrangements inside this expansion tank.It's the instant reversal of air that acts as the separator.These have their own drains on them.And from an engineering standpoint,is the best place to "attack" the heat....with attendant moisture.The SB expansion tanks are small because of $$ and packaging requirements.Shoot the temp on the line coming from comp head with a point N shoot gun.It's gonna be pushing 200*F.Anything you can do to lower this line temp is the first step twds overall separation.So when studying images for ideas,pay attention to the systems BETWEEN comp head and tank.Best,Shopdog.

PS,once a rubber air line gets contamination,you need to be careful using it with certain finishes or application.

[michael.birdsley]

That’s good advice about the heat in compressed air that I didn’t think about.

This time around I have settled on buying the dura coat can in a can spray paint for doing this project. I have been doing a lot of research on it. The refinishing kit costs about 40-50 bucks depending on where I order it from. The kit includes the degreaser and paint. It takes about a month to fully cure but, I think it will do it’s job with little investment . If I could get 5-6 years out of the finish I will be happy. The hardware store spray paint that I put on three years really has not done that bad of a job just some scratches chips here and there ( I’ve seen worse). I think if you are looking for a great looking finish and rock hard finish, cerakote is the way to go. I just have to build a oven and figure out the best way to hook the air up. With a new little one and wanting to get some other stuff done that will be a long term goal. One worth doing and maybe make some side money.


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