Odometer yards...

[montana_charlie]

I use an older Honda ATV for many tasks related to agricultural jobs. One of the things a four-wheeler is good for is 'spreading'.
That can be spreading dry fertilizer, seed, or various liquids for promoting, or inhibiting, plant growth.
But, to do any of these jobs with some degree of precision (especially necessary when spraying weeds) the vehicle must have a way to calculate your speed.
To that end, I recently installed a 'computer' on my old Honda that gives me all kinds of information...but the important ones (for me) are the 'distance' and 'speed' readouts. I believe the information to be very accurate because you input your actual wheel diameter for the computer to use in it's calculation.

The 'odometer' reading is given in hundreths of a mile (x.xx) and that got me to thinking...why not use the ATV to lay out target shooting ranges?
Of course, this works best on flat ground.

Here are some 'useful numbers' which you can use when establishing a shooting distance. After using your odometer to find the basic distance, a few paces either way will bring you to one of those primary ranges we all use.

1 mile = 1760 yards
.1 mile = 176 yards
.01 mile = 17.6 yards
.................................................. .......

.03 mile = 52.8 yards - - - - - - - .23 mile = 404.8 yards
.04 mile = 70.4 yards - - - - - - - .25 mile = 440.0 yards
.06 mile = 105.6 yards - - - - - - .27 mile = 475.2 yards
.07 mile = 123.2 yards - - - - - - .29 mile = 510.4 yards
.09 mile = 158.4 yards - - - - - - .34 mile = 598.4 yards
.10 mile = 176 yards - - - - - - - .40 mile = 704.0 yards
.11 mile = 193.6 yards - - - - - - .45 mile = 792.0 yards
.12 mile = 211.2 yards - - - - - - .50 mile = 880.0 yards
.13 mile = 228.8 yards - - - - - - .51 mile = 897.6 yards
.14 mile = 246.4 yards - - - - - - .57 mile = 1003.2 yards
.17 mile = 299.2 yards
.20 mile = 352.0 yards

Aditional Information:
My ATV sprayer lays down a pattern which is 13.33 feet wide.
If I travel .62 miles, it will spray exactly one acre of ground.
When traveling at 5 mph, I will use 7.5 gallons of mix in .62 miles.

So, if I want to lay down chemical at a rate of 1 pint per acre, I just add a pint to 7.5 gallons of water...and travel at 5 mph.
The 'rate' stays the same as long as the speed stays the same...even if only spraying 'patches of ground' within a larger field.

Kinda neat...
CM

[carpetman]

Montana Charlie----Tell me more about the computer. Cost where to get it and what all else information does it give? How much hassle to install. I have an older Honda atv as well.

[Pepe Ray]

You may wish to explore another technology for odometer replacement.
Your GPS unit.
My buddy and I have 2 different brands. We checked them in his car on a road trip. Coincidentally, he lost his speedometer in his cruiser and had to use the GPS till it could be repaired.
Of course, the newer the unit, the more accurate it should be.
Pepe Ray

[yondering]

I just use my range finder. It's more accurate, and simple to use.

[montana_charlie]

Montana Charlie----Tell me more about the computer.
While answering your question, I will just ignore the guys who prefer to suggest other ways to judge speed and/or distance.
I'm sure they know how to open their own threads...

First, I'll point you toward the website.
http://trailtech.net/computers.html

They have a number of different model lines, with varying features. I chose the Endurance for a number of reasons.
- They had a model number that will work on my old Honda TRX 300.
- It was the simplest, and least expensive of their offerings.
- They had a model number that will work on my old Honda TRX 300.
(As you can see, I place a notable amount of importance on 'compatibility'.)

If your Honda is old enough to have the 'sealed' drum brakes (on the front) then it is similar to mine in age. If you pick the Endurance model, the 4020-20 kit is the one you want.
That gets you the sensor which mounts to the backing plate of your brake.
If that sensor is no longer available, you will have to get creative when mounting a sensor of a different shape.

There was a 'hardware glitch' in my kit, but it was due to ignorance on the part of the manufacturer. The guy who designed the 4020-20 is no longer employed there, and the current crop of numbskulls don't understand the requirements of this obsolete kit.
The 'fix' is to go buy one 6mm bolt...a little longer than the one in your brake backing plate.

Because the kit IS obsolete, you have to get it from the manufacturer. The chance of finding it elsewhere is slim.

Installation was straightforward...if you have the right instruction manual. I can send you one, if needed.

The 'computer' operates on it's own coin-type battery. I would have preferred one that plugs into the electrical system...but this seems to work well.

I'll be happy to provide more 'technical support' if you need it.
CM

[John Boy]

Charlie, if you need batteries for the 'computer' ... try this website:
http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.400

I use a lot of L44's and their price is dirt cheap!

[RMulhern]

MC

Or...you can go to Google Earth and use the RULER!! I can shoot back to 1500 yards here on my place and I have firing lines back to 1000 yards and when I check the range on Google Earth....the distances are RIGHT ON!!:drinks::drinks::drinks:

[montana_charlie]

MC

Or...you can go to Google Earth and use the RULER!!
I read your recommendation last night about 9 p.m.
It reminded me that I downloaded Google Earth a while back...but hadn't messed with it.
So, I installed the software and spent ninety minutes going through some of the features...including the 'ruler'.

It takes some identifieable landmarks to lay out distances on the monitor that can be checked on the ground, but several that I took with a borrowed rangefinder seemed to match up very closely.

Interesting...
CM