M1A or Garand???

[Remmy4477]

Looking at adding a new rifle to the collection.

After having an SKS, AK47 and an AR15, none of which excite me much.
Been thinking about an M1A or a Garand.

I'm tooled up well for the 30-06 so was thinking on going with the garand but through reading and advice from some friends I keep hearing there picky to reload for due to there gas system? Not to mention your limited to 8 rounds.

The M1A looks like a nice unit. Several different barrel lengths and stock combos to choose from. Personally a wood stock and 18 inch barrel would suit me fine.
Never fired a 308 but guessing not much difference than the 06.
Would need to retool, dies and brass.
Have not heard anything about problems on reloading for them as I have on the garand.
I see plenty of 308 ammo at every show I go too.

Just wondering out loud!

[MUSTANG]

Start with the Garand as they are more difficult to get at times (in shooters hands/safe like mine and they are not letting go of them). As you have all ready stated, your set up for the 30-06 cartridge now. Then as cash is available pick up an M1Aas they seem to be available on many gunstore racks (both new and used) as well as dies/molds/etc.. . Of course; you need more than one of each.

[Outpost75]

Garand is not picky to load for with cast.

Use ordinary FL resizing dies. You don't need or want "small base" sizing dies. These are a coinspiracy between the die makers and brass sellers to wear out your brass more quickly.

DO use USGI surplus brass, if you can find any. It lasts longer and reloads better. While GI Match brass is best, ordinary Ball M2 cases work well and are long lasting, once you remove the primer pocket crimp. Best tool for removing the GI crimp is the Dillon Auto Swage. I load thousands of rounds for Garands yearly and this is what I use. If you only have access to range pickup brass, try accumulate Remington, Winchester, RWS, Norma, Lapua, any USGI or HXP.

Federal and S-B brass are junk, sell to the scrap man.

The Greek surplus HXP headstamp brass from the CMP ammo is very good and is worth seeking out the ammo to get the brass.

Don't be afraid of WW2-era Ball ammo or fired brass from it. Any USGI brass made after 1934 which has visible neck anneal colors is good. Follow the WW2 manual to clean and oil your rifle, using hot soapy water heated in a canteen cup, or GI bore cleaner.

Decap and wash older corrosive primed brass after firing in hot water with Ivory or Dawn dishwashing detergent to remove any residual chlorate salts. Then swage primer pockets, tumble clean when dry, then size and load as normal.

Don't use ball or spheroidal powders in the Garand, stick to extruded powders it was designed for. Either IMR or H 4895, IMR4064, RL15 or Varget are the best choices for powder. Best cast bullet to use is the NOE clone of #311299, sized .311" and cast about 15 BHN, 50-50 linotype and wheelweights is good. Use NRA formula 50-50 Alox Beexwax.

A charge of 35-40 grains of the above powders will cycle the rifle reliably. Start on the low end and quit when you get reliable function.

Use standard Winchester large rifle primers. They are closest to military cup thickness, anvil point geometry and priming mix. The CCI military M34 primers are OK, but aren't the only suitable ones.

Add a tuft (1 grain weighed) of Dacron polyester fiber, tucked in loosely into the case neck, NOT pressed down against the powder before seating the bullet.

Use either the RCBS cast bullet expander or Lyman "M" die to slightly flare the inside and outside deburred case mouths to prevent shaving any lead in bullet seating. The expander plug should be not more than 0.002" smaller than the bullet. A .309 or .308 RCBS plug works best with #311299 sized to .310-.311" which is correct for GI Garand barrels.

A heavy crimp is not needed, but the seating die must remove any mouth flare. Use the sized front driving band as a visual reference when seating. You want to see at least 1/16: of the driving band above the case mouth, but none of the lube groove. This length will feed fine from the enbloc 8-round clips and the #311299 is a good fit in the GI throat. If you have a new commercial barrel such as a Criterion you might need to seat bullets a wee bit deeper. Try chambering a DUMMY round, extracting it and looking at it to see if it is heavily marked by the rifling. Light marking which does not impair full chambering when the bolt is released, and which does not result in de-bulleting upon extracting a loaded round does no harm.

Correct cast bullet loads will not foul the gas system. There may be some lead deposit on the opeatying rod which is easily removed with steel wool and Kroil. The gas cylinder can be cleaned easily by removing the gas cylinder plug only, NOT the gas cylinder lock, and cleaning the gas cylinder with a .410 bore brush and Kroil.

Enjoy your Garand. You will find it MUCH less "fussy" to load cast for than an M1A "Pogo Stick"

[oldhenry]

If you stick with 4895 or 4064 you'll never have any problem with the gas system on a Garand. There may be more, but I have personal experience with 4895 & 4064.

I agree with Mustang......get a Garand while you can (I have 3 & I'll never sell them).

Henry

.................................................. .................................................. .
A real sport involves either gasoline or gun powder..............all others are just games

[lefty o]

with both the Garand and the M1a variants you have to load within the working range of the gas system. its no big deal for either. i have both, and my personal preference is the M1.

[country gent]

Both are fine accurate dependable rifles in about the same performance range. Both will doany job suited for the cartridges. There are some diffrences in the 2 rifles though. These might have some bearing on what you chose.
The Garand is a solid well built rifle 24" barrel in rack grade. Uussually 1-12 or 1-10 twist good for around 175 grn bullets. Wood is normally average but nice figured wood can be found. 8 round enblock clips that are ejected when last round has been fired. There is the sled clip that is a single load enhancement device that stays in the rifle and allows single round loading. Gas system is real finicky but to slow of powder or to heavy bullet and the op rod can bend causing functioning and loss of accuracy. Front hand guard can be an issue to accuracy with out mods. All in all a very solid rifle that's accurate and dependable. Parts are still available. The garand can be emptied with out cycling rounds thru action.
The M1A/M14 is also a dependable accurate rifle that's also accurate. Slightly shorter action and possibly a little better bedding area. Shorter straight op rod that's not suiseptable to bending as the garand. Gas system is easier to work with but the piston needs to have carbon fouling removed occasionally ( I believe letter O drill and I don't remember the number drill for the small hole in the stem). On some the gas plug is ported also to lower operating pressures. Gas system can be slid forward easily so rifle can be removed from the stock with out "rocking" saving wear on the bedding. Barrels are 22" 1-10 or 1-12 so same bullet range as the garand. Again plain wood but fancier is available along with some very solid fiberglass heavy target versions. Uses a 20 round box magazine that stays in the rifle till removed.
Trigger groups are very similar between both rifles and can be worked to 4 1/2lbs. 2 stage triggers on both rifles. safteys are also similar between the 2 rifles and lock the hammer in place. It used to be fashionable to lighten the hammers and a heavier spring to improve lock time for NRA High Power ) Slight differences in the pistol grips on the stocks and forends. Sights are similar, Battle grade, NM with hood and 1/2 min adjustment, front are available in different widths. Sight radious is a little longer on the garand. The M1A/M14 has scope mounts available that are easily removeable and repeatable. The Garands has scope mounts but not as functional unless you put the block on the barrel.
My Garand is rebarreled to 308 / 7.62 with a medium heavy douglas barrel. I have used it to 1000 yds in matches Its completely bedded and tuned trigger is 4lbs 10 ounces. With a very short second stage that breaks at an added 1 1/2 lbs. Its a very useable rifle and very competitive.
My M1As/M14s are also the same used out to 1000yds. ported gas system with interchangeable ports. Rear lugs added and bedded and tuned. Triggers are set up same as the garands. NM 1/2 min rear sight and .059 wide front sights.Front Sights are cut down for a 1 clk zero at 200 yds. This keeps sights lower at 600+ yds. Stocks are heavy walnut bishops. All are very accurate rifles.
On a used garand if possible check the timing, throat erosion and muzzle wear. Otherwise look it over good for odd wear or damage. Remember some of these are pushing 100yrs old. The CMP can be a source of good rifles. On M`1a/M14s look over good for wear and damage. Check the throat erosion. Look for the modified flash hiders that have been taper reamed out ( a plus for accuracy). Also M1A/M14s came from springfield armory with 3 barrels the military used 2, A standard weight "pencil" barrel, A medium heavy barrel that had an extended chamber section, and a full heavy that was large dia to the gas system. Triggers were standard and tuned some. Some have glass bedding some M1As use the steel stock liner. Lugs both front and rear ( there are a few garands with triple lugs done by Clint Fowler also)
Handle both and see what feels right and decide where you want to go.

[ascast]

I suggest you look at a Belgum FN49. 30-06, 7mm or 8mm. 10 round internal mag, stripper clip fed. Adjustable gas port, so far broader spectrum of operating pressures can be fired with bending anything. good luck

[Bigslug]

Garand not picky to load for at all - just load for the Garand, and don't try to feed it any of the hotrods you cooked up for your 700.

8 round clip is a LOT faster to get reloaded than a detachable box. The only real negative to the system is that it's fairly awkward to load less than 8 and you can't top off a partial magazine; the "tactical reload" of the day was to give the enemy whatever you had left after solving the immediate problem and stuff in a fresh clip.

[country gent]

There are clips for the garand that are 2 round and 5 round but they are also one way use only. With practice you can load 2 rounds pretty easily, cross them in the clip push in and close the bolt. Not easy at first but can be learned. One nice thing is the enblock clips are inexpensive and can be modified at home for SLED, 2 rd and 5 rd. I can remember buying them .25 a piece. Troops were also taught to top off before advancing Hit the release button and the clip and rounds eject insert another. Its a fine rifle and does what it was meant to. It was built like a tank and heavy enough make the 30-06 easy to shoot.

[kens]

The Garand is just, well,,,,,a classic piece.

[shooterg]

Love 'em both - but for awfulhand(offhand) shooting, always shot the Garand better as it had no 20 round mag right where I wanted to hold onto the gun ! The longer sight radius was helpful also. Always wanted one in .308, but can't make myself remove an original barrel from any of the dirty dozen in the safe. The very first one cost me $168 from the CMP(may have still been DCM then). Last one cost a bit more !

[vzerone]

There are clips for the garand that are 2 round and 5 round but they are also one way use only. With practice you can load 2 rounds pretty easily, cross them in the clip push in and close the bolt. Not easy at first but can be learned. One nice thing is the enblock clips are inexpensive and can be modified at home for SLED, 2 rd and 5 rd. I can remember buying them .25 a piece. Troops were also taught to top off before advancing Hit the release button and the clip and rounds eject insert another. Its a fine rifle and does what it was meant to. It was built like a tank and heavy enough make the 30-06 easy to shoot.

You are correct you can load any number of shells from 1 to 7 and it's not that hard. Once you learn it's easy. Another thing too, some Garand, not all, you can load an 8 round enbloc, don't let the action close, then place a loaded round in the chamber, then press the enbloc down all you can and let the bolt clos SLOWLY on the chambered round. Not all Garands will let you press the enbloc enough to let the bolt clear. Wonder if any soldiers done that in WWII and Korea? Sure would have surprised the enemy thinking you only had eight rounds!!

[mwhite49]

And if Colorado goes with the insane mag ban it should not effect the Garrard. And they already make a 3 or 5 round clip too.

[vzerone]

You really can ignore the "wrong powders, wrong bullet weights" if you use a Schuster adjustable gas plug within reason! They have them for the M1A's too.

[Remmy4477]

Thanks for all the input! Looks like I'll be looking for a garand.
I've got two ammo cans of 42 and 43 headstamped GI once fired brass and a can and half of 50's GI brass.
I use 4895 in my eddystone, so theres the powder..

Cost wise I'm already ahead on the Garand as far as reloading components are concerned.
Really did not want to tool up on brass and new dies for a new caliber, been shooting a 06 since I was a kid so its familiar to me.

Lots of great tips, input and coments!
Again thank you all!

[TNsailorman]

Like some others on here, I am a fan of the M1 Garand and have been since I first carried one in service. I have a 1944 one right now in excellent condition and I would not trade it for any other rifle made. The M14/M1A is just a re-design of the M1. It has a short stroke gas system, a 22" barrel and is clip fed instead of an enbloc magazine. The Garand is just as easy to reload as the M14. I know, I have been there with both. I really like the ol girl and she points natural for me. I heard an old Marine Sgt. say to a bunch of recruits, if you can't shoot the M1, you need to join the girl scouts. There were situations where it would have been nice to have more than 8 rounds of ammo without a mag change but all in all, if I have to go into harm's way, I could ask for no better than a M1 and plenty of ammo. james

[6bg6ga]

Go with an FAL.

[Hick]

Garand for sure. Also, be aware that you CAN shoot cast at low velocities in the Garand and get great accuracy. The rifle won't cycle, but that's not an issue. In fact, I changed out the gas plug on my Garand for one that has an open hole, so that it never cycles, even with full loads. All you have to do to reload is pull back on the handle and let go-- the spring closes the action fine. This lets you load the 8 round clip but choose when to toss the brass at your neighbor on the line (no hot brass down anyone's shirt).

[55fairlane]

The CMP store at camp perry had some 308 garands last week when I was there....I have both an M1 and M1A1(national match guns) the M1 is the better or more fun to shoot......hotrod ammo will break op rods in the M1......

Aaron

[Reverend Al]

Well, the obvious answer would be to buy both ... but that's just the sort of thing that I would do without thinking twice ... (and I do have both) ...

:bigsmyl2:

[country gent]

The CMP store also has criterion barrels in stock usually. Along with some years of military take offs for those restoring a garand. Not as much in the stores as there used to be now. I can remember when it was back in erie ordance a small office with a huge wharehouse. Filled out the order slip and waited for them to bring it up. Parts kits for various military guns, stocks, garands and tools. I got lucky after a match and got a timing block for the garand.

[Treetop]

Remmy, I love my Garand but be advised, it is the most right hand friendly rifle that I have ever fired. If you are a south paw like me, you will be better off with an M1-A, IMO.

As a young man, right out of the Marines, I fell in love with the NRA High Power course offered monthly at our club. The only military type of rifle available to me at the time was my Dad's Garand. As a tool and die apprentice with a young, growing family, I had very little extra money, so I ordered a Lyman 311291 mould and shot cast boolits until I was able to purchase my first M1A.

I could never perform the mandatory reload required during the rapid fire stages, as a southpaw, so finally, I just concentrated on getting 8 Xs or 10 ring shots with the first clip and never reloaded. My scores of course went up when I started using my M1-A with it's ambi mag release!

It's just something to think about if you're a southpaw... Semper Fi, Treetop

[lefty o]

Remmy, I love my Garand but be advised, it is the most right hand friendly rifle that I have ever fired. If you are a south paw like me, you will be better off with an M1-A, IMO.

As a young man, right out of the Marines, I fell in love with the NRA High Power course offered monthly at our club. The only military type of rifle available to me at the time was my Dad's Garand. As a tool and die apprentice with a young, growing family, I had very little extra money, so I ordered a Lyman 311291 mould and shot cast boolits until I was able to purchase my first M1A.

I could never perform the mandatory reload required during the rapid fire stages, as a southpaw, so finally, I just concentrated on getting 8 Xs or 10 ring shots with the first clip and never reloaded. My scores of course went up when I started using my M1-A with it's ambi mag release!

It's just something to think about if you're a southpaw... Semper Fi, Treetop

i just wear a hat, as i dont like the clip bouncing off my forehead. other than that i dont have any problems with it as a lefty.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Interesting. Some out there say that you don't want to load 180 grain j-word bullets for the M1 Garand, I take it you just don't want to load boolits over 165 grains or so HOT for it? Certainly a good tool, the M1 :)

[country gent]

The standard bullets were the 168 grn match and special ball with the 173 grn bullet when I was competing. I believe the match loads were around 2650 fps. Performed great in most rifles. Battle ammo was a 150 grn fmj. Heavy bullets and or slower powders can and do bend op rods. Another issue is the heavy loads are hard on the Garands limited bedding area. The forged trigger guard helps hold the rifle tighter in the stock than the stamped ones do, do to less spring. Best it the Clint Fowler triple lug that's bolted in I mentioned above. It adds a rear lug and 2 side lugs adding bedding area and then the bolts 14 32 in back (under rear tang of trigger guard) and 2 10-48s on each side under the magazine plate. These lock the receiver in tight and the trigger guard only holds the trigger in when this is done.

[TNsailorman]

I at one time bought into the "faster is better" mantra. What I found was that beating a rifle to death with high velocity and high pressure did not very often bring better results. Those really high chamber pressures usually have 2 result; burned throats/barrels and is hard on stocks unless they are properly glass bedded. I finally quite using a chronograph as a wishing well and started using the lower end loads and working up slowly until I found the accuracy started falling off with a bullet and powder combination. Then I stop right there. What I have found in the last 50+ years of shooting the 06 is that a 150 to 165 grain bullet traveling around 2700 fps will usually give the best accuracy and adding another 100 to 200 fps to the load does nothing for accuracy and the deer won't know the difference, he is dead anyway. If there is a "weakness" to the Garand, it is the OP rod. However it would hold up quite well thank you, if you don't try to make a magnum out of the 06 or use heavier than 165 grain bullets. I know, I know; there are people who use 180 grains bullets but I will not. I at one time used the 173 grain surplus GI bullets that were dirt cheap and they were some of the most accurate surplus bullets on the market for the Garand. But I kept the velocity around 2600 fps or slightly above and never tried heavy loads with it. Surprisingly, the 147 grainers designed for the M14 do quite well with my Garand. At one time OP Rods were plentiful and fairly low in price. No more. Find a new OP Rod (extremely hard to do) now and you had better have deep pockets. Anyone who owns a Garand now would do well to take good care of it, they are only going to get more scarce as time goes by and as owners continue to try to make them do things they weren't designed to do. I would not even think about using any other powders than 4895 or 4064 in a Garand. There may be others but I know these 2 and they are plenty good enough for me. I am not interested in try to "re-invent" the wheel. Yes, I do baby my equipment. just my experience and my opinions, james

[Multigunner]

Its been many years since I owned a Garand but I remember a few things about it compared to an M1A that belonged to a friend.

The gas system of the Garand is easier to clean out, an important consideration if using cast boolits.
The balance is perfect, for me anyway.
The long sight radius is conducive to holding a fine bead on target.
The fore end is more full and steady in the hand.
GI issue Garand stock sets are of better quality wood.

The Magazine of the M14/M1A gets in the way when carrying for any length of time.

The Garand front hand guard makes for a secure grip if you like to set the rifle butt down leaning against something to be snatched up in a hurry. Important if you wish to be prepared to repel boarders.

Also the Garand is an all around better looking rifle. Ian Hogg said it reminded him of a locomotive.

[ShooterAZ]

I own both the M1 and M1A, and having to choose a preference between the two would be very difficult. They are both more accurate than I can shoot. Either one will reach out there with authority and dependability. I recommend both!

[Digger]

With a twist on the M1 ...
Once you understand the mechanics , very appealing ...
Do not have access to a M1A but your thoughts are in the right camp .
I have a version that everyone puts down but has proven to be very dependable and reliable and more accurate than I am.
A "Tanker" , shorty by Arlington arms in 308 and it has been an education for sure , these days when I let others shoot a few rounds they want to take it home with them or at least want to be first on the list when the time comes.
Have a 308 Ruger bolt , an AR-10 but after using these , pick up the Tanker and what a difference , very enjoyable with the military peep sights as it is my favorite of all three.
After having learned what to look for with the "bent" op rod from using off the shelf factory loads , I went old school and straightened it out myself and it has performed perfectly since.
A lot to be said for the Garand ....enjoy them while you can !!

[Larry Gibson]

I've been shooting both the M1 and the M14/M1A since '64. The Army let me shoot lots of both. I also have owned several of each. I now own 2 M1As and no M1s. Absolutely nothing "wrong" with the M1 that the M1A does "fix" IMHO.

[Multigunner]

Some features of the M14 that improve its usefulness as a military rifle are academic for the civilian shooter and even detrimental in the case of the chrome lined bores which were proven to be just a tad less accurate than the unlined bore of the sniper rifles built on this action.

[vzerone]

Some features of the M14 that improve its usefulness as a military rifle are academic for the civilian shooter and even detrimental in the case of the chrome lined bores which were proven to be just a tad less accurate than the unlined bore of the sniper rifles built on this action.

Very well put Multigunner.

I ran across some gun forum one day and they were talking about the 223 WSSM burning out it's barrel like the old stories on the 220 Swift. Well happens Winchester got wind of it and got on the forum. They told them it is not true. Then Winchester said it was going to tell them something that they've never publicly released. They said that the bores on the 223 WSSM are chromed and also on Browning. That means it would be harder to burn their barrel out. Well the point I'm getting at is those 223 WSSM shoot some very small groups. I wonder if they have the capability to make chrone lined barrels as accurate as barrels that aren't chrome lined.

I'm very surprised by this thread in the high percentage of shooter here prefer the M1 Garand over the M14/M1A. I have a sample of every U.S. military rifle starting from the Krag. So I have both the Garand and M1A and I like them both. I may favor the Garand because of it's history.

[Petrol & Powder]

I'm going to toss my hat in the ring.
I've had both (M1 & M1A) and they are both fine rifles.
However, I'm a .308 guy so that pushes me towards the M14/M1A. I still have my M1A and it's never leaving.

As for powder, it is 4895 for me and that's the end of that discussion.

Both rifles are interesting, both are capable of fine work and both have their quirks.

[vzerone]

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t643/vincentz1/Maple%20full_zpspfahfsih.jpg

[Gewehr-Guy]

Is it sinful to LUST after another man's M-1 ?

[nicholst55]

For a brief but very informative video on the M1 Garand (including how to top off a partially used clip), watch What Ain't Necessarily So About the M1 Garand on YouTube. Yes, he's a Brit, and I find him rather entertaining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2idYNKWGm4

[derek45]

Get the Garand.

CMP Garands are real USGI combat weapons.

https://i.imgur.com/Yrhi605.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uZnYIzc.jpg

I've had 2 M1A's also, and they are nice, but the Garand is more historical and fun to shoot.

https://i.imgur.com/dPe5Sae.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8hvhuLW.jpg

[Multigunner]

For those who prefer the 7.62X51/.308 there are purpose built Garands chambered for the NATO 7.62 and all it really requires to convert the Garand is a rebarrel or a chamber insert.
In my opinion the .30-06 is the superior cartridge but the 7.62 is more commonly available these days and will continue to be manufactured for the foreseeable future.

[hicard]

I have both and I really like my M1A scout with the lightweight fiberglass camo stock. To me, it is lighter and thinner in the grip. I also prefer 308 over 30-06.

[country gent]

Very few are recommending the inserts from 30-06 to 308 now. They work but make for a very long "throat" as there is a big difference in the oal of the 2 cartridges. How true the insert goes in is another critical point. One that cocks or is off center has an affect on accuracy. Last is even locktited in place they have been known to pull out on extraction at times. Have seen it once during a rattle battle where the guy was shooting fast and good at 300 the kids picking up brass showed me some no neck 306s and one had the bushing on the neck shoulder. I have found brass at the local club that has that same no shoulder neck look.
My garand is in 308 7.62 nato. I used a short chambered douglas 1-10 twist. medium heavy barrel Timed it up and cut the chamber to headspace. It was incredibly accurate before 6000 rds went down range thru it over the years. It was a quick easy conversion in reality. The barrel fitting and timing went quick, the chambering wasn't a problem and it feed and functioned from the get go with out any modifications needed. There is a block that sets into the front of the action to take up space but mine didn't need it and most don't.

[vzerone]

Very few are recommending the inserts from 30-06 to 308 now. They work but make for a very long "throat" as there is a big difference in the oal of the 2 cartridges. How true the insert goes in is another critical point. One that cocks or is off center has an affect on accuracy. Last is even locktited in place they have been known to pull out on extraction at times. Have seen it once during a rattle battle where the guy was shooting fast and good at 300 the kids picking up brass showed me some no neck 306s and one had the bushing on the neck shoulder. I have found brass at the local club that has that same no shoulder neck look.
My garand is in 308 7.62 nato. I used a short chambered douglas 1-10 twist. medium heavy barrel Timed it up and cut the chamber to headspace. It was incredibly accurate before 6000 rds went down range thru it over the years. It was a quick easy conversion in reality. The barrel fitting and timing went quick, the chambering wasn't a problem and it feed and functioned from the get go with out any modifications needed. There is a block that sets into the front of the action to take up space but mine didn't need it and most don't.

Why did you choose the 10 twist for the 308/7.62 NATO? Just incase you shot the throat out you chould chamber it to 30-06?

[Multigunner]

The 1:10 twist of the .30-06 was a holdover from the .30 of 1903 that used a 220 gr bullet. The British held over the 1:10 twist from the original .303 with 215 gr bullets also.
Both will stabilize bullets of over 200 grains and perhaps slightly over spin bullets of lighter weights.
The 174 gr bullet of the .303 MkVII worked very well with the 1:10 twist just as the 175 gr bullets of the .30-06 M1 cartridge worked great with that twist.
The guys with the slide rules decided the 148 gr projectile of the 7.62 M80 ball would benefit best from a slower twist of 1:12-1:14.
Some prefer a 1:10 twist for the .308 or 7.62 if using heavier bullets (175 and up) better suited for extreme range target shooting or heavy game.

[country gent]

I mostly 168 grn and 173 grn for 600+ and the 1-10 was a better choice for those at longer ranges. The newer VLDs were not avaialable when I built this rifle but the sierras 168 grn International and matchking and the surpluss 173s were and they were longer than the 147 and 150 grn. Hence the 1-10 twist. My one M1A/M14 wears a Krieger 1-12 barrel for the 155 palma. This barrels reamer was cut with a Dave Manson reamer ground with a throat that put this rifle touching the rifling at slightly under mag length.

[mac1911]

Thanks for all the input! Looks like I'll be looking for a garand.
I've got two ammo cans of 42 and 43 headstamped GI once fired brass and a can and half of 50's GI brass.
I use 4895 in my eddystone, so theres the powder..

Cost wise I'm already ahead on the Garand as far as reloading components are concerned.
Really did not want to tool up on brass and new dies for a new caliber, been shooting a 06 since I was a kid so its familiar to me.

Lots of great tips, input and coments!
Again thank you all!
for the cost of one basic M1a you can buy 2 service grade M1s from the cmp? or a 308 version for $1030 to your door. wont have to worry about mags either.
Reloading for the M1 is not hard theres about 8-10 known safe powders to choose from.
I run a 200 grain cast load that cycles with 37 grains of 4895. Then of course unless you plan to run at 600 plus yards there is really no reason to run the loads full throttle.
The US TM list M2 ball with 50 grains of imr 4895 for 2740fps 78' from the muzzle and the 173 grain M72 match same charge as M2 ball with 2640fps 78' from the muzzle. If your only shooting 100-200 yards theres just no need to run them that hot.

[Walks]

I've been shooting a Garand for 50yrs+, the one I have now came from the DCM in 1987. It's a June 1944 Winchester with a Walnut stock, unissued. I danced on air for at least 3 days after I opened the box. I've had a M1A for almost 30yrs. I use U.S. G.I. brass only. Either 4895 & decent USA primers; WIN or RP. 150-168gr bullets. I've had good luck with old LYMAN'S #311329 & #311413 cast of straight LINOTYPE, they feed easily. I shoot the M1A National Match with a 5rd mag.
If you are lucky enough to get a good Shooting Garand then it's only a matter of practice as to which rifle you will be able to shoot better/faster.

[Remmy4477]

Well, found me an M1 Garand! Happy!!!

It's a 1954 HRA, 1 on the muzzle and a 2 at the throat. Good stock and the rest is in very good condition, only 2 peices have been replaced, the safety and operating rod both are marked SA.

Found it at a vendors table at our monthly gun show last weekend. We had another vender who deals in Garands go over it to make sure it was a decent rifle, learned more about garands during its inspection than I could reading books all day!
It passed the inspection and I brought it home.

Going to try and get it out to the range before the end of the year and see how she does!

[alamogunr]

There are clips for the garand that are 2 round and 5 round but they are also one way use only. With practice you can load 2 rounds pretty easily, cross them in the clip push in and close the bolt. Not easy at first but can be learned. One nice thing is the enblock clips are inexpensive and can be modified at home for SLED, 2 rd and 5 rd. I can remember buying them .25 a piece. Troops were also taught to top off before advancing Hit the release button and the clip and rounds eject insert another. Its a fine rifle and does what it was meant to. It was built like a tank and heavy enough make the 30-06 easy to shoot.

These statements are a little confusing to me. I have a Garand but it has just sat in the safe. Too many other projects. But I would like to start shooting it. A little clarification might help the original poster as well as myself.

[mac1911]

These statements are a little confusing to me. I have a Garand but it has just sat in the safe. Too many other projects. But I would like to start shooting it. A little clarification might help the original poster as well as myself.

What do you need to know.

[alamogunr]

Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
There are clips for the garand that are 2 round and 5 round but they are also one way use only. With practice you can load 2 rounds pretty easily, cross them in the clip push in and close the bolt. Not easy at first but can be learned. One nice thing is the enblock clips are inexpensive and can be modified at home for SLED, 2 rd and 5 rd. I can remember buying them .25 a piece. Troops were also taught to top off before advancing Hit the release button and the clip and rounds eject insert another. Its a fine rifle and does what it was meant to. It was built like a tank and heavy enough make the 30-06 easy to shoot.

The statement in red. Does that mean that they can only be used once?

Green. Not sure what that means either.

Blue. Where do I find what SLED means and how to modify enbloc clips?

Sorry for the confusion.

[vzerone]

Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
There are clips for the garand that are 2 round and 5 round but they are also one way use only. With practice you can load 2 rounds pretty easily, cross them in the clip push in and close the bolt. Not easy at first but can be learned. One nice thing is the enblock clips are inexpensive and can be modified at home for SLED, 2 rd and 5 rd. I can remember buying them .25 a piece. Troops were also taught to top off before advancing Hit the release button and the clip and rounds eject insert another. Its a fine rifle and does what it was meant to. It was built like a tank and heavy enough make the 30-06 easy to shoot.

The statement in red. Does that mean that they can only be used once?

Green. Not sure what that means either.

Blue. Where do I find what SLED means and how to modify enbloc clips?

Sorry for the confusion.

SLED means single loading enhancementdevice. As duty noted they can be for more then just one round.

[mac1911]

Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
There are clips for the garand that are 2 round and 5 round but they are also one way use only. With practice you can load 2 rounds pretty easily, cross them in the clip push in and close the bolt. Not easy at first but can be learned. One nice thing is the enblock clips are inexpensive and can be modified at home for SLED, 2 rd and 5 rd. I can remember buying them .25 a piece. Troops were also taught to top off before advancing Hit the release button and the clip and rounds eject insert another. Its a fine rifle and does what it was meant to. It was built like a tank and heavy enough make the 30-06 easy to shoot.

The statement in red. Does that mean that they can only be used once?

Green. Not sure what that means either.

Blue. Where do I find what SLED means and how to modify enbloc clips?

Sorry for the confusion.

I will get back to you in a bit. I actually made some you tube videos on such things

CLIPS: lets start by saying unless you are hunting or competing DO NOT bother with anything but 8 round clips.
Now there are clips that are designed or modified for specific needs.
Clips that will only hold 2 or 5 rounds are basically for shooting matches.
The sinlge load devices are just that. They are a clip modified so they can be inserted into the rifle and lock in. Then the shooter can load one round at a time (required for slow fire prone and standing in matches) This SLED will allow the bolt to be held open on the last shot and the enbloc is not ejected.
There are also some modified clips that are designed not to eject and you load like a fixed magazine bolt gun. Intended for hunting.

There are instructions out on the internet for making the 2,5 and 1 shot clips. Honestly though unless you just like making stuff they are cheap enough to just buy.

[Discus420]

Go with an FAL.

or a cetme for fun with a 308 they cant be beat amazing low recoil

[Discus420]

oh yea a decent CETME will only go 5-600$ interchangeable with HK also

[Mr_Sheesh]

HK91's are a fun one, fired one. Not fired a CETME as such. I vastly prefer the folded metal German receivers over the cast Aluminum horror on those tho. The one I shot was an accurate beast.