Why Not (or so few recommend) Graphite for Sprue Plates?

[Grump]

Or moly disulphide for that matter?

I searched this sub-forum for "graphite sprue plate" without the quotes and the dry lube options are mentioned or recommended by very few.

Right now I am using a 100-weight automotive AC oil (might be PAG, but it's cold out there and I'm lazy right now) which works great but for only about the first 75 pours.

And I don't particularly like the prospect of unscrewing the sprue plate to put more on in the middle of a casting session. That's how long the peak performance of the AC oil lasts, but I can manage up to another 75 pours most of the time by rubbing the lead streaks off once in a while.

Wondering if either of the dry powder lubes would work better.

Thanks!

[john.k]

I use bullet lube on the plate and pins that has a large content of moly grease in it.Lead itself is a well known lube,or was before the greenies got to it.

[Beagle333]

I do sometimes. See all the pencil scribblin' on top of the mold blocks? But I find that the sprue plate lube from Mihec or NOE does a better job of preventing smears, and is a little faster to use. I'll cut the sprue and swing the plate open, leaving the blocks closed and the boolits in place, and either scribble on top of the blocks with my pencil, or swab a slightly dampened Qtip with sprue plate lube across the top and then wipe it back off with a piece of denim or burlap. Then dump the boolits and proceed for another 50-60 pours. Whether I use graphite or oil depends on whichever just happens to be in the casting bucket when I go out there that day. ;-)
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/DSC03543_zps8f6b8428.jpg

[Grmps]

I use carpenter pencil on the pins for easier release

[Crash_Corrigan]

I use Bullshop's Bullplate Lube and I apply it after I heat up the mold with a few casts. Then I apply it with a Q tip on the alighnment pins, top of mold and underside of sprue plate and hinge pin. Once I apply it I wipe it down with a clean Q tip and get to casting. Some where after about 15 to 20 mins of casting I reapply and wipe down again. I also use the oil that Mihec packs with his molds but I believe the Bullshop lube to be better.

[OS OK]

Anti-seize...that stays there.
Just try to wipe it off...now it's on your fingers! It's maddening but it's been a good solution because it's made for the heat and it doesn't migrate towards the cavities.

[Boolit_Head]

I've got a bottle of graphite someone gave me 25 years ago, the label is long gone and was unreadable when I got it. It's some sort of graphite in a alcohol like suspension. From what I can tell it was for molds. I've coated the tops of my mold blocks with a q tip and when it wears I coat it again. I never have any issues with leading or wear. It's starting to run low and I'll be danged if I can figure out what it was to get another one.

[johnnyastro22]

+1 for anti-seize

The first mold I ever bought (Lee) recommended using it and I have continued to use it on MOE molds with success.


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[Idz]

collodial graphite in water is marketed as AquaDag. I think Aquadag E has alcohol in it also.

[codgerville@zianet.com]

I've got a bottle of graphite someone gave me 25 years ago, the label is long gone and was unreadable when I got it. It's some sort of graphite in a alcohol like suspension. From what I can tell it was for molds. I've coated the tops of my mold blocks with a q tip and when it wears I coat it again. I never have any issues with leading or wear. It's starting to run low and I'll be danged if I can figure out what it was to get another one.

Maybe what you have is " Mold Prep", sold by NEI. I have used it for years with very good results. Can be found on their website.

[OS OK]

I've got a bottle of graphite someone gave me 25 years ago, the label is long gone and was unreadable when I got it. It's some sort of graphite in a alcohol like suspension. From what I can tell it was for molds. I've coated the tops of my mold blocks with a q tip and when it wears I coat it again. I never have any issues with leading or wear. It's starting to run low and I'll be danged if I can figure out what it was to get another one.

It looks like everybody makes this stuff...check this, pictures of all the brands available... https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0SO8w08CA9a3zAA_xpXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEy MW41cXU3BGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjQ0ODJfMQRzZW MDc2M-?p=airosol+graphite&fr=aaplw

I've got an old can of it too...but a little goes a long way. I spray it on a paper towel and then wipe with it...I don't trust the nozzle anymore cause it comes out under pressure and ricochets onto everything..;)

[JBinMN]

I have used a little bit of beeswax melted on the screw that lasts a casting session at least, if not more, and I have used antiseize there also. Both work for me.

I may try the graphite once on a mold I just got, to see how it works, but if not, I will go back to using the other two.

Worth a try anyway. Another "tip" in the tip toolkit if it does...
:)

[Stilly]

I remember Lee saying to use Beeswax or whatever on their molds, some folks I have seen use the compressor oil or some really weird oil I have seen in a small bottle. I have seen others tell me to try that bottle- milk of magnesia or whatever it is called.

Tom at Accurate molds said to use graphite as well.

In my dealings with graphite, I first came across a totally awesome product called Jiga-Lube which was spray graphite and I used it to coat plated pills and make them darker so the chrony would see them as I shot them during the day. Then I ran out of that and I got some **** from home depot and it SUCKED cause it came right off. Then I found what I THINK was nearly as good as the Jiga-Lube and it was sold at Napa Auto Parts and it was a spray graphite bottle that cost about $6 or so but it held on good. I say look for that. It is great stuff for spray graphite. I am done with beeswax and all else though. Graphite is awesome stuff and when it comes to the pins for the HP molds there is a simple solution for those too, get your mold from Erik at Hollowpointmolds.com or have him modify yours and nothing will stick to the pins... Mine are absolutely fantastic. I am so thrilled at his work. I made some 50 AE rounds today. Nice HPs. I am going to make one blue PC with a black rim and it will glow in the dark and then I am gonna make another one bloody Christmas tree. (Emerald base plus high gloss red- makes a red/green camo) and present them to a couple of folks at work who were interested in seeing what things you can make while reloading...

So, my vote is for spray Napa Auto Parts graphite unless Kroil has something better (but you gotta buy a lot to keep the cost down)

[Grump]

GREAT to have these recommendations and personally informed reports. Rumor and internet legend (and before that GunZine legends) bore and annoy me.

But anyone know WHY graphite is so low on the list, save for a couple of mould makers?

And any substance to the idea that molybdenum disulfide is reactive under certain conditions or can cause rust? I have not yet endeavored to see what the later word is on it. Following the bullet coating craze a few years ago was tiresome...

Thanks!

[Boolit_Head]

It looks like everybody makes this stuff...check this, pictures of all the brands available... https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0SO8w08CA9a3zAA_xpXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEy MW41cXU3BGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjQ0ODJfMQRzZW MDc2M-?p=airosol+graphite&fr=aaplw

I've got an old can of it too...but a little goes a long way. I spray it on a paper towel and then wipe with it...I don't trust the nozzle anymore cause it comes out under pressure and ricochets onto everything..;)

Mine is not aerosol, thick stuff in a small bottle I apply with a q tip. A mess if you get it on your hands.

[john.k]

If you re using the current Lee molds,the beeswax forms a sort of carbonized varnish that holds the screws and alignment pins in.Without it you ll likely loose the pins when the mold gets hot.

[ascast]

Maybe what you have is " Mold Prep", sold by NEI. I have used it for years with very good results. Can be found on their website.

I 2nd this stuff. I cover the mold inside outside with it. Splatters come off blocks easier. Top side and cutter get it as well as inside blocks. Gives a little overnight moisture proof: that is about 1 night moisture protection. Easy to re-apply during a session if needed.
I don't know why more peeps don't use this. I think folks kinda get pointed in one direction a tunnel vision gets the better of them. NEI has a great product here. If they found something better, they would have bottled it for profit.

[ascast]

ps if NEI stuff, it's a great sight blacken as well

[Moonie]

Marine formula low ash synthetic 2 stroke oil.

[rockrat]

I have used the NEI moud prep quite a bit. Ran out and just got a bottle of 91 percent acohol and added my own powdered graphite (lube for planters at John Deere) to make my own. Just shake it up before you use it.

[AKholicBubba]

I've had a tube (similar to Oragel or Neosporin tube) of powdered graphite lubricant, the kind for locks, made by AGS, laying around for awhile not sure how I even got it. I been thinking about putting it to use. Should I make an alcohol mix as stated above or is there another way to apply it effectively?

[DAVIDMAGNUM]

I've got a bottle of graphite someone gave me 25 years ago, the label is long gone and was unreadable when I got it. It's some sort of graphite in a alcohol like suspension. From what I can tell it was for molds. I've coated the tops of my mold blocks with a q tip and when it wears I coat it again. I never have any issues with leading or wear. It's starting to run low and I'll be danged if I can figure out what it was to get another one.
Lock Ease

It is a very fine graphite in an alcohol solution. It is available in most hardware stores.

[farmerjim]

Anti-seize 1'st use then 2 cycle oil.

[Jack Stanley]

Another user of NEI mold prep . I use it when I have the blocks apart and cool enough to handle . Graphite and alcohol solution as I recall so similar mixes should work about as well .

Once molds are hot though , I use a very light touch of the mold lube that LBT sells . I think Veral told it was a mix of beeswax and graphite so I keep it away from the cavities . Use just enough for the hinge pin area itself .

Jack