Lee Factory Crimp Die

[17nut]

I got a new one in 357MAG FCD that i would like to modify.
It's the true FCD not the sizing ring and roll crimp thingy.

The old one took a couple of light raps with a hammer and it popped right out, the new one sits there like it was welded in place. I stopped beating before i damaged the metal. It moves and rotates easily, but the new spring thingy they have started to use is a true one way thing.

Anyone have an idea how to coach it to dismantle?

[mdhillbilly1]

I got a new one in 357MAG FCD that i would like to modify.
It's the true FCD not the sizing ring and roll crimp thingy.

The old one took a couple of light raps with a hammer and it popped right out, the new one sits there like it was welded in place. I stopped beating before i damaged the metal. It moves and rotates easily, but the new spring thingy they have started to use is a true one way thing.

Anyone have an idea how to coach it to dismantle?Purchase one from Lee without it installed since it is just a modification to a current die it should not cost much. They might even do it to your current die.

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[Johnny_Cyclone]

Are you talking about the LEE Collet Style Crimp Die?
https://leeprecision.com/images/P/90969-01.jpg
SKU: 90813

357 Magnum Collet Style Crimp Die. Incorporates a collet to apply a rifle type crimp to the case.

[17nut]

Yup that's the one.

Mine is so short i cant get a grip on the bushing on my lathe.

205934

[Johnny_Cyclone]

http://www.bearblain.com/images/Lee%20FCD%201.png
pic found here: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=582548[/SIZE] ([SIZE=2]https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=582548)

Found this in the LEE FAQ:


Factory Crimp Die sticking
Posted by Steph @ Lee Precision on 11 November 2016 07:44 AM

The die can be disassembled for cleaning, it is likely that there is some little piece of something in the die that is making it stick. To disassemble the die, screw the die into your press. Then using a short length of 1/2 inch hardwood dowel and a metal hammer drive the collet straight down out of the bottom of the die body. After you have cleaned and lubed the collet and die body, use your press to push the collet back into the die body. Screw the die body into your press as far as it will go and then put the collet on the shell holder and raise the collet to contact with the die body. Then slowly push down on the press lever with steadily increasing pressure until you hear the collet snap into position in the body.

http://leeprecision.net/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/60/factory-crimp-die

[Johnny_Cyclone]

Since it's a special project.. could you chuck up the die body and remove enough threads from the die base to give you access to the collet?
I mean if you can get by without 5 or so of them?

[Johnny_Cyclone]

A crafty fella could even try to remove enough threaded section off the die and shorten the collet length to create a .38 special crimp length. Probably could do same same to shorten the .44mag version to .44 special or the .45 Colt to Scholfield. 45-70 to 45-60...

But yeah, it'd be best if it came apart as easy as LEE says.. lol

[17nut]

And that was the old type, i have some of those which dissassemble with light hammer taps.
This new one sits there like it was welded. I have smashed it with a steel rod and a 2 pound hammer to no avail.

[17nut]

A crafty fella could even try to remove enough threaded section off the die and shorten the collet length to create a .38 special crimp length. Probably could do same same to shorten the .44mag version to .44 special or the .45 Colt to Scholfield. 45-70 to 45-60...

But yeah, it'd be best if it came apart as easy as LEE says.. lol

Well that went off like a fart in a diving helmet!

I think i removed a full inch before it let go.
The new system is simply that the top of the crimping tube rests in a ridge turned on the inside of the die body. Lee made that with square corners so there is no way in h311 to get them seperated again once assembled.

At least i got what i wanted albeit it now being a bit Rube Goldberg.
I needed a sharp narrow crimp for some heeled .380 short revolver cartridges.
The innards had a taper i reverse ground to a sharp rounded edge and narrowed it for a perfect crimp.

Here is how much i ended up removing for it to fall apart:
205956205957

Here the crimper with a 357MAG case to show how it used to crimp.
205955

Ground to a rounded shoulder in the crimper.
205958

Custom riser to get things aligned.
205959
205960
205961

And the final crimp.
205962

[Johnny_Cyclone]

well.... now we know they are pretty much non user serviceable.


Ok... I'm wondering if drilling a hole clean through the lower die body and collet for installation of a roll pin (so the collet wouldn't move or spin) then chuck the die body up. Now it would be one solid piece. Spin the whole assembly. Remove the threads to length needed then shrink the collet base. When done punch out the roll pin so the collet can float free again?

maybe?

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello All,

The Lee Factory Crimp Dies come with 5 different Bodies, not just calibers listed just to give an idea.
Extra Short S13066 - 218 Bee through 45 LC
Short S13101 - 204 Ruger, 223 Rem, 243 WSSM, 7.62x39
Medium S13102 - 220 Swift, 308 Win, 303 Brit, 8x57 Mauser, 45-70 Gov
Long S13103 - 270 Win, 7mm Mag, 458 Win
Easiest way I found to remove collet is to place in single stage press from bottom,
then push a 3/8 SHCS through head first with ram.
The reason collets sit out more on some than others is because they are Cartridge Specific.
Many articles on how to modify including my own, http://1858remington.com/discuss/index.php/topic,8675.0.html

AntiqueSledMan