Has anyone bored the Yildiz .410 for a barrel stub?

[steve urquell]

I'm looking to turn .410 into a .38spl rifle using the boring/epoxy route. I already have a .560" OD bbl chambered for .38 spl bought from ebay. I love the Yildiz but the aluminum reciever and steel barrel have me worried. I've seen the one someone made a monoblock for but haven't seen anything on using the factory reciever.

Anyone done this?

[Texas by God]

The aluminum receiver should have a steel recoil insert surrounding the firing pin. I would proceed with confidence and that will be a very neat rifle!

[steve urquell]

The aluminum receiver should have a steel recoil insert surrounding the firing pin. I would proceed with confidence and that will be a very neat rifle!
Thanks for the reply. I'm excited at the prospect of a 3.5lb plinker with a suppressor attached--threading the muzzle 1/2-28. Should be darned near silent with light loads.
I was more curious about how the steel barrel attaches to the reciever and how that might affect boring it. If it screws in I would remove it. Not sure how to proceed in regard to this.

[Texas by God]

I've handled a Yildiz folding .410 if that's the gun you are referring to. The barrel is probably silver soldered into the monobloc but I don't know this for a fact. Search "Stub job" and you'll find answers. A couple of threads are active on this subject now. I've not done one but that may change in the future.

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[rking22]

I have one with a new monoblok. The reciever is 7071 aluminum. The monoblok is steel and attached to the reciever via a pivot pin/screw. The pin slides in and is NOT ( Corrected, i just checked, sorry for the bad info)threaded, the other end is tapped for a short screw with a head matching the pin head. This is how the pivot tension is adjusted. Not sure how the actual barrel is affixed to the monoblok, I wanted to keep my 410 intact. Breach face in reciever is a steel insert and firing pin bushing. I think the trigger can be improved, just haven't gotten rountoit. They are a real bargain with great fit and finish. Also have a 12 ga frame now, suspect you might know it when you touch one off in that! Would make up a nice 30wcf :)

[steve urquell]

I have one with a new monoblok. The reciever is 7071 aluminum. The monoblok is steel and attached to the reciever via a pivot pin/screw. The pin slides in and is threaded near the head, the other end is tapped for a short screw with a head matching the pin head. This is how the pivot tension is adjusted. Not sure how the actual barrel is affixed to the monoblok, I wanted to keep my 410 intact. Breach face in reciever is a steel insert and firing pin bushing. I think the trigger can be improved, just haven't gotten rountoit. They are a real bargain with great fit and finish. Also have a 12 ga frame now, suspect you might know it when you touch one off in that! Would make up a nice 30wcf :)

This helps tremendously! Thank you. For some reason I thought the Yildiz monoblok was aluminum. Since it is steel I'm not worried about it. A friend of mine's dad has the lathe and will do the bore job and muzzle threading for me. I'll epoxy it in and solder the forend lug on, drill and tap it for sights.

I love the look of the Yidiz 12 gauge with the nickel receiver. That thing swings like a dream. Make mine in .44 spl please. 16" bbl :wink:

[rking22]

Glad to be of assistance. This comes up regularly, how bout doing a build along thread for posterity :)

[steve urquell]

Glad to be of assistance. This comes up regularly, how bout doing a build along thread for posterity :)
I will. Getting ready to buy the shotgun. I'll post up a pic heavy thread on it.

[Multigunner]

The Yildiz single shot with its slim barrel looks like a good candidate for a removable bore liner.
A liner could have the breech end turned to the proportions of a 410 shell and the muzzle end protrude a half inch or more and be threaded for a muzzle ring. A replacement ejector would complete the process.
If a .38 bore made the liner to thin at the muzzle for threading a .32 S&W Long liner would work. Either would make for a good Rook rifle.
A .32 liner threaded at the muzzle should be sturdy enough to mount a suppressor. With an 18+ inch barrel such a combination would be as silent as they get.
The gun could then be quickly restored to use as a .410 when desired.

[Texas by God]

Cashed in gift cards may lead to something but it's going to stay a .410 for a while. I had to have it afterall.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171227/e9efd9de09449d14b9d8f4c3201b9b33.jpg

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[3leggedturtle]

Lots of youtube videos on how to fix these up, along with the Hatfield single shots. I really don't need another projects, but my lil badgers need a mate in the duffle bag. Hope to see your build as it progresses. Todd/3leg

[Texas by God]

The fit and finish of this little shotgun is amazing for the price.
Plus if you have a problem, warranty work is handled by Briley of Houston. I'm having a blast with mine.

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[Jedman]

I plan on picking up a Yildiz 410 when I am in Oklahoma in a few weeks from now. I hope the Academy store there will sell me one being I am from out of state. I tried to buy one a couple years ago at a Academy store in Georgia and they would not sell it to me for that reason.

I plan on removing the barrel and studying the underlug to see how difficult it would be to make one and if doable make a spare rifle barrel in a small pistol caliber such as 32 S&W long ?
It would be a nice pinker and as cheap to shoot as 22 LR with cast bullets.

Jedman

[Jedman]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]212853[/ATTACHWell I just got back from a trip where I was able to acquire 2 of the Yildiz shotguns.
They sure have pretty wood for a low priced shotgun.
It will be a while before I can start working on them but it looks like I will leave the 410 barrels intact and just make new monoblocks for the rifle barrels. One may become a 45 cowboy barrel,
The brass is rimmed same as a 45 Colt but same length as the 45 ACP and the 410 extractor fits perfect. These are nice guns and so light almost toy like.

Jedman

[steve urquell]

I kept looking at the Yildiz and Hatfield .410s online. Handled the Yildiz at Academy and had planned on buying one when Academy had a sale. Went to Cabela's yesterday and a little Hatfield youth was on the new guns rack with $130 price tag on it. I had points on my Cabela's Visa and got this for $40 out the door.

Pics don't do these guns justice. It's really tiny. 34" overall length, 4lbs 3oz. Receiver is nickel plated steel. I like the external hammer although the trigger needs work. I bought a .38spl chambered barrel off e-bay when I started this thread. Just need to get these to my buddy's dad for the machining work.

https://i.imgur.com/KKoVVEj.png
https://i.imgur.com/XuXt2ey.png

[Texas by God]

Are the Hatfields Turkish made?
That's gonna be a cool gun when you are done.

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[steve urquell]

Are the Hatfields Turkish made?
That's gonna be a cool gun when you are done.

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Yep. Made in Turkey. The wood isn't as figured as the Yildiz but still looks better than any cheaper wood stocked US gun I've seen in 20yrs. The Hatfields look terrible on the online sellers websites. This gun looks nice in person.

[John McCorkle]

Is there a sticky or thread I am missing on these single shot shotgun to look rifle conversion? I am interested beyond belief...one in 38spc or 9mm would be some kinds of fun

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[steve urquell]

Is there a sticky or thread I am missing on these single shot shotgun to look rifle conversion? I am interested beyond belief...one in 38spc or 9mm would be some kinds of fun

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Unfortunately not John. I've read everyone I could find with web searches and haven't found a single one detailing a build. I will make this thread a build thread as I go.

[John McCorkle]

Unfortunately not John. I've read everyone I could find with web searches and haven't found a single one detailing a build. I will make this thread a build thread as I go.You'd make a friend out of me if you did! As a caster/tinkerer a long barrel rook rifle in a small caliber would be very neat. By the time a 38 spl got down 20 inches of barrel it'd be real quiet on its own...I mean relative to a 2 1/2 snubby revolver...I'd love to know what I can be looking for in parts and what I will need machinist help for

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[rking22]

You guys will be glad you kept the 410 barrels, durn things make you giggle like a kid ! I have 2 and almost bought another last week, would have but going a Stevens 530a SxS. May pick up one of the Yildiz 12s if they go on sale. Really well put together guns for less than 150$ new, about 100 times better than anything else in that realm!
Looking forward to the build thread, I got sidetracked on mine. Maybe you'll get me re movatied!

[Texas by God]

That 12 gauge will need a Limbsaver on it but would be a delight walking miles and miles while pheasant hunting!

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[rking22]

I hear you, I handled it in the store. It's light, like 5# ish light but fit is good. So tempting, resist resist..

[steve urquell]

OK guys, here's the Hatfield youth broken down with specs. Ask me if there is anything you want measured.

OAL: 34"
LOP: 13"
BBl length: 20"
Weight: 4lb, 4oz
BBl'ed Action: 3lb, .07oz
Monoblock(MB) length: 2.545"
MB thickness: 1.20"
BBl diameter: Most of taper is done 3.5" from MB
muzzle: .590"
1/2 way: .615"
at MB: .785"

.410 Chamber: .475" ~.5" in--as far as my dial caliper would reach
Rim cut: .546"
Muzzle ID: .408"

My barrel blank is chambered for .38spl and is a straight .572" diameter from chamber to muzzle, 21" long. I thought it might look funny with no taper but the only way you notice is with the fore end on looking down at the barrel resting in the fore end seeing the gap between the barrel and stock near the MB.

I want to have a MB made and thread my bbl blank into it, save the .410 bbl. No extractor, just a scallop big enough to get my thumbnail under the case head.

Something I noticed that made me happy was that the trigger guard could be replaced with a fabricated one shaped like a falling block guard. The factory one breaks the action by being slid straight to the rear by being squeezed on the front. The rear hook on a falling block shaped one would allow the guard to be slid to the rear easily and the trigger guard screw would fit where the rear hook meets the bottom of the receiver like my Stevens Favorite below. This thing would look sharp with the falling block style lever and fore end reshaped with a schnabel.


https://i.imgur.com/zYfvpK8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4IdBCHF.jpg

[Jedman]

steve urquell,

The seller on eBay that sells the liners/ barrels like to have has great prices on his products.
A couple of years ago I bought 3 - 4 of his 21" barrels in .451 bore and with one I made a 45 Colt single shot rifle for a friend from a Remington Spartan/ Baikal 410 shotgun. I did a long stub like Texas by God is doing and it's a great little rifle. With another one I cut it in two lengths and rebarreled 2 Hi Point JHP pistols in 45 ACP with threaded muzzles and with another I made a couple removable chamber adapters for shotguns one in 20 ga. and one in 12 ga. one was a 45 ACP and the other was a 45 COLT. All of those projects shot very well.
Your choice in the 38 special should work really well. I have a old Stevens tip up shotgun from the 1880's that I bought as a wall hanger that needed a lot of work and after fixing a broken stock and a few other issues I put a liner in the barrel and chambered it in 38 special, It's a neat gun !

Looking forward to seeing the progress on your project !

Jedman

[ulav8r]

Is there a sticky or thread I am missing on these single shot shotgun to look rifle conversion? I am interested beyond belief...one in 38spc or 9mm would be some kinds of fun

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Look at the H&R Handi Rifle forum on Graybeard Outdoors. There are lots of threads about converting to pistol cartridges or non-standard rifle calibers, some using cut down shotgun barrels, some using rifle barrels, and some on making monoblocks for the new barrel.

[sixgunner452]

Gentlemen, Back when the Obama-ammo scare was in full force. I too had a Yildez 410 converted to 32 mag. I had the barrel stubbed by a guy on Greybeards. He grafted a stainless 30/06 Rem take off barrel on. So I have to watch how fat my loads are ( 308 rifling ).

It has a Skinner Low-Pro peep, with a home made ft ramp. I had the barrel cut even (18-19'') with the folded stock. A Lee "Soupcan", 32 S&W long is a lot cheaper than 22LR. A lot more effective on bunnies too! And, yea those Yildez sure have some pretty wood on them for how cheap they sell. Randy.

[Gaseous Maximus]

Steve Urquell, That is a nice looking Favorite.

[GhostHawk]

I have a H&R Handi rifle with a 9mm stub job barrel bought on GBO.

1.5 to 2" average group size at 100y. Tight enough to kill anything you want to kill.

125 gr rnfp from the lee .358 mold tends to cast just a smidge big at .359-.360.

No issues with those in any of my 9mm guns. And they instantly stopped 2 of them from keyholing and shotgun patterns.

3-4 grains of Red Dot makes a nice inexpensive load with plenty of punch.

[jandbj]

Gentlemen, Back when the Obama-ammo scare was in full force. I too had a Yildez 410 converted to 32 mag. I had the barrel stubbed by a guy on Greybeards. He grafted a stainless 30/06 Rem take off barrel on. So I have to watch how fat my loads are ( 308 rifling ).

It has a Skinner Low-Pro peep, with a home made ft ramp. I had the barrel cut even (18-19'') with the folded stock. A Lee "Soupcan", 32 S&W long is a lot cheaper than 22LR. A lot more effective on bunnies too! And, yea those Yildez sure have some pretty wood on them for how cheap they sell. Randy.

Any pics would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Texas by God]

I could swear I heard a Yildiz 12 ga. folder whisper "I want to be a 50-70 Govt." At Academy the other day....

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[LIMPINGJ]

Go for it, a Yildiz Buffalo Rifle would be cool.

[sixgunner452]

jandbj, here are a couple pics of my 32 mag Yildiz.

223313223311223312

I am not a rich man, so when I went in to Big5, and bought a 410 Yildz; sawed off barrel and sent to my gunsmith it was a scary moment.

But, I was very pleased with the results. I mentioned earlier, mine has a stainless Rem take off barrel 308'' specs, not true 312.

[jandbj]

jandbj, here are a couple pics of my 32 mag Yildiz.

223313223311223312

I am not a rich man, so when I went in to Big5, and bought a 410 Yildz; sawed off barrel and sent to my gunsmith it was a scary moment.

But, I was very pleased with the results. I mentioned earlier, mine has a stainless Rem take off barrel 308'' specs, not true 312.
Looks like exactly what I hope to do. Thanks for the pics!

[frkelly74]

The "scallop for thumb nail" extractor concept has caught my attention. I never thought of that before. I have to pick up a 20 ga single that I won on Gunbroker for cheap and get busy. I am thinking 357 or 38 and am looking at the barrel liners I have seen on ebay.

[sixgunner452]

frkelly74, that sounds like a good start. Numerich is a good place too. The guy who did my conversion is a man on GB's Outdoors forum. He says he has done literally hundreds of them. Mainly pistol calibers. Randy.

[sixgunner452]

frkelly74, 38/357 would be a great caliber, especially if you handload. If you do not, 9mm might be the way to go. Cheap bulk, NATO ammo. I believe Texas by God went that route on one of his conversions. Randy.

[steve urquell]

Thanks to all who have replied and sixgunner thats an awesome rifle. Id love to see a closed side pic of it.

I havent done anything to mine yet. Haven't gotton with my buddy's dad yet. I have a question tho regarding the factory extractor. I intend to do the scalloped chamber and won't need an extractor. Removing the factory one will leave ~.75" of chamber open at the bottom. Do I need to weld the factory extractor to the barrel before boring it or will it be OK to just leave it open where the factory extractor cut is?

[sixgunner452]

steve urquell, that is a question best left to the Pro's. I will try to get ya a pic. Randy.

[Texas by God]

SG452- that little gun is so cool! The quick adjust peep? I want one.

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[sixgunner452]

Texas by God, you Sir should get ya one. Especially considering you have the skills to put one together. I took the easy way out, I paid someone. I really like the rear sight too. Been real easy to sight in. My"smith" set it up correctly. Minimum effort required to hit Bunnies. Randy.

[Jedman]

Steve urquell, I took some measurements on some 38 special brass to see how much of the cartridge head is solid brass and the average is approx. .170 so if you extractor cut is no deeper, ( I doubt it ) you should be safe to leave it as is and you wount have a unsupported cartridge.

Jedman

[steve urquell]

Steve urquell, I took some measurements on some 38 special brass to see how much of the cartridge head is solid brass and the average is approx. .170 so if you extractor cut is no deeper, ( I doubt it ) you should be safe to leave it as is and you wount have a unsupported cartridge.

Jedman
Jedman I was talking about the factory .410 extractor. Since it's not attached to the barrel it will be gone when the liner is glued in. I was asking if the liner needs the support of the factory extractor. Its pretty big on the Hatfield taking a big chunk of the chamber away when its out.

[Jedman]

Jedman I was talking about the factory .410 extractor. Since it's not attached to the barrel it will be gone when the liner is glued in. I was asking if the liner needs the support of the factory extractor. Its pretty big on the Hatfield taking a big chunk of the chamber away when its out.

You will be fine, Jedman

[Texas by God]

I'm thinking that unless you leave a rim lip on your liner, the extractor can just stay there and be ignored. A breech end pic of your Hatfield will help us see what you're talking about. On the 9mm I did, the 12 ga. ejector happily clicks back and forth, doing nothing.

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[steve urquell]

I'm thinking that unless you leave a rim lip on your liner, the extractor can just stay there and be ignored. A breech end pic of your Hatfield will help us see what you're talking about. On the 9mm I did, the 12 ga. ejector happily clicks back and forth, doing nothing.

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Here it is. The extractor spans the whole bottom width of the monoblock and goes into the chamber 1/2". If I wanted to keep it I'd have to wire it to the barrel when boring it or weld it.
https://i.imgur.com/83QuRTy.jpg

[Texas by God]

If you're boring out the host barrel to the liner od you can remove the extractor entirely because the liner is strong enough to hold the pressure.
I had assumed incorrectly that you were going to turn the liner down to fit inside the host barrel.
You would have to anneal the extractor before you tack it and bore it.

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[steve urquell]

If you're boring out the host barrel to the liner od you can remove the extractor entirely because the liner is strong enough to hold the pressure.
I had assumed incorrectly that you were going to turn the liner down to fit inside the host barrel.
You would have to anneal the extractor before you tack it and bore it.

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I figured as much but figured I'd rather ask than screw this up. Plan is to bore the .410 as far as possible to 9/16" then turn the liner down to allow ~.002 fit for loctite. The liner is ~.566 at the chamber so the liner will only need minimal turning to match. What epoxy/loctite did you use for your 44-40?

[Texas by God]

I used JB Weld. Jedman told me I didn't need much and he was right..... I had to pull it back out and remove some to get it to seat at the chamber shoulder[emoji16]

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[steve urquell]

I used JB Weld. Jedman told me I didn't need much and he was right..... I had to pull it back out and remove some to get it to seat at the chamber shoulder[emoji16]

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While i'm picking your brain. How did you set headspace and how did you position your rifle while the epoxy was drying?
thanks for the help BTW. i really appreciate it. :)

[BAGTIC]

I am curious. Has anyone had any problems with the shotgun style firing pin working with brass cases at higher than shotgun pressures?

[Jedman]

If you boring the chamber to 9/16 and the chamber should be approx .380 you will have plenty of thickness in your liner for the 38 special.
To turn the liner for a .002 fit to the bore is really close fit, a couple thousands more is fine for epoxy or loctite.

I usually use a length of all thread rod either 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 to draw the liner into the barrel but that is with a much larger chamber section than the rest of the bore such as a 20 ga. with the chamber and bore left as is and turning the liner to match. In your barrel I don't know if you are reaming the chamber in the liner before you glue it in the barrel or after and if your barrel or liner are different lengths.
Usually I have a rim turned on my liner so headspace is set by that but it is not necessary.
With your barrel / liner you could use a length of threaded rod with a flat washer and nut on both ends if they are the same length.
I cannot remember if you are doing this without a lathe so thinking of the best way to do this is not clear.

Jedman

[Jedman]

I am curious. Has anyone had any problems with the shotgun style firing pin working with brass cases at higher than shotgun pressures?

I have done quite a few stubs and relined rifle barrels on break action shotguns and YES you can have trouble with primer flow into the breech face and trouble opening the action.
It seems as it mostly depends on how large the hole in the breech face is and how snug fitting the firing pin or striker fits the hole and sometimes if it is a rebounding hammer .
This is working with cartridges up to the pressure of a 30-30 Win. I have built 3 of them on unmodified guns and they have all worked fine. One was a Brazilian made shotgun sold thru K mart years ago it had a all steel reciever, another was a Russian made Baikal shotgun with a all steel action and a hammer less action, and a Stevens M 9478 that was a 20 ga.
I have actually had more trouble with cartridges that use small pistol primers than anything else but it is not a given that you would need to bush the firing pin on these guns to make it work.
A 38 special should be no problem if kept to standard pressure loadings the firing pin must be fit well without excessive clearance when the tip is pushed thru the breech face, if it is a sloppy fit a new pin maybe needed to tighten it up. If you are handloading the ammo used in these converted rifles there are harder primers that take more pressure that can be used also.

Jedman

[scotth]

any updates on this build. i to have a yildiz 410 that iam thinking about building a 32 s&w long out of.

[Jedman]

233154I finished my Yildiz about 98 % back in the summer. I first chambered the barrel to 32 H&R mag.
Being cheap I used a non piloted chucking reamer to do the job and somehow the reamer didn't follow the bore and left me a crooked chamber. When I fired it the brass would not extract, Ihad to use a rod to nock it out and the brass had a bulge near the case mouth ?
That really made me mad at myself for screwing the chamber up. I still don't know why it happened and afterwords I had a couple ideas on what to do to fix it. Being the frame is not up to any hi pressure cartridge I thought I had better make it something that would have to be handloaded and yet keep it as small as possible. What I decided on is a rimmed and shortened version of the 300 black out. I shortened the OAL of the brass by removing .060 off the bottom of the sizing die and form it on 357 mag brass.
I ended up boring the chamber to a diameter to thread with a 9/16 X 40 thread and stopped at a depth where I thought would have cleaned up the off center bulge and leave the joint where the sleeve joint would end up in the neck portion of the new cartridge.
I made the 9/16 X 40 sleeve about the same length as a 32 H&R and screwed it in tight with loctite and let it sit. I had bored a center hole thru the sleeve before installing it for the 300 AAC reamer to follow and with a rented reamer reamed the chamber.
My luck being what it is on this project the " new " chamber has a spot that leaves the fired brass with a small spot that isn't concentric but extracts fine and doesn't seem to affect anything.
After making the scope base and mounting the scope I did some shooting and found it would shoot cast bullets upto 150 grs. at a lower velocities and remain stable ( no keyholes ) and some jacketed pointed bullets I had in to a inch at 50 yards.
The trigger on the Yildiz is really not good for a rifle. I intend to work on it and work on load development at a later date. The gun has been sitting for months now as I am letting my anger over the project go away. It is shootable as is but I have decided to work on other projects for a while and get back to it sometime.
I do have a second Yildiz that I may make a rifle out of at some point but have so many others that need finished first.

Jedman

[Texas by God]

Is it a stub or full length liner? It sure looks good! Sounds like you rescued it.

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[Mr_Sheesh]

I've been curious about these, but, no Academy stores anywhere near here so I guess I will pass for now.

[Jedman]

It is a full length liner made from the Heym 308 Win. barrel from one of their combination guns.
I believe it will be a decent shooter once I spend some time developing the loads it likes. It is really light which I was trying to maintain but I really wanted it in a strait walled cartridge.
I could bush the firing pin and up the loads but leaving it as is keeps you honest because some of the loads I have shot start to crater the primer so you know when to back off.
I would have reamed it to 32-20 but I know it would not have cleaned up the bad 32 H&R chamber.

It should be a good smaller game rifle similar to a 32-20 when I get some loads worked out. I believe it will shoot better than 2 MOA with some trigger work and some work with loads.

Jedman

[Texas by God]

Thanks for sharing and keeping the project wheels turning in our heads.

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[scotth]

wow that looks great hope you can get it shooting like you want. still looking at all the options befor starting my build in 32 s&w long. if it turns out good would like to build one in 32 h&r mag maybe one in 22 hornet. Thanks for sharing your build with us.