Kroil and my long lost micrometer

[tazman]

My basement flooded for the first time ever about 15 years ago. Much of my reloading and casting equipment was down there stored in various containers. Some of the containers floated around or sunk and filled with water. Much was ruined. Fortunately all my loaded ammo was in military ammo cans with intact seals and survived.
This particular story is about a micrometer that had gotten lost in a small soaked container and not found for several years. Nothing special about the micrometer. It was rusted sufficiently that the adjustment knob would not turn at all. I tossed it aside and thought I had thrown it away years ago.
A couple of years ago I moved and apparently that micrometer moved with me. I found it last week while searching for some other things and laid it on my gun cleaning table. Just for grins I sprayed it heavily with Kroil just to see if there was any hope for it. This week I stumbled across it again while cleaning some pistols. When I picked it up, it still wasn't wanting to turn. I gave it a light tap on the table and it started turning.
After a very short time it regained full movement and now opens and closes completely. UNBELIEVABLE.
Kroil is really good stuff.

[Grmps]

I'm sorry to hear about loss & glad you got your micrometer freed up.

Kroil is excellent, but expensive. (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50) is actually better and cheaper

Rust Remover/penetrating oil
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils.
The torque required to loosen them.
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

[country gent]

Now that its turning remove the thimble sleeve and see if there is a collet thread nut on top of the thimble. If so a little flitz or other very fine abrasive and wok stop to stop for several minutes then clean and assemble with a very light oil. Adjust the collet down alittle at a time and they may become accurate again also.

[w5pv]

I use a lot of Kroil when used correctly a small can will last for years

[claude]

will last for years

The can I bought surely will, it stinks so bad I won't use it. :mrgreen::mrgreen:

[JWT]

Repeated application of kroil got the buffington sight on my trapdoor moving freely again.

[jdfoxinc]

Claude are you sure that isn't Ballistol?

[RED BEAR]

Once you get it free use a good inst. Oil kriol will jell up if left fore a long time. Made that mistake on some old mics .

[dragon813gt]

Claude are you sure that isn't Ballistol?

Kroil stinks almost as bad as Ballistol. Just seems most people can take the Kroil smell.

[tazman]

Once you get it free use a good inst. Oil kriol will jell up if left fore a long time. Made that mistake on some old mics .

Thanks for that info. I wasn't aware it did that. I think I will use some of my gun oil on it.

[too many things]

IT wont jell and it can be on molds for 10+ years and they still work.
you people that dont like it wont use it. only mold release that dose work if you use it right . have molds that have not been used in 10yrs. they will cast and release everytime

[claude]

Claude are you sure that isn't Ballistol?

Surprisingly enough, I graduated high school back when it was necessary to know how to read,[smilie=1::kidding: it is indeed Kano Kroil.

[rintinglen]

Different stinks for different folks. Ballistol doesn't bother me at all, while Kroil smells awful.

[alamogunr]

About 20 years ago I had occasion to take some stuff to our son and daughter-in-law in Nashville. After delivering, I went by the Kano plant and bought a gallon of Kroil. I think it cost about $35. I've used it ever since and gave small cans away and still have more than I'll ever use. Works great for cleaning barrels(lead not copper).

I have read the American Machinist report several times and have no issue with it. My issue is with acetone. I don't like the stuff. I don't often run into world class frozen assemblies and therefore will stick with Kroil.

The only problem I've had is remembering to set little squirt cans on aluminum foil on the shelf. The stuff will "creep" out and soak the wood(osb) shelf.

[EMC45]

I like Kroil. I like the smell, how it works and how little it takes to get things going again. Got my first can from the tool crib at the machine shop I worked at years ago. It lasted a long time. Got 3 more cans a few years back from Kano Labs. It was a buy 1 get 2 free deal I believe. I also have some milsurp solvent that I swear is Kano Kroil. Smells the same, works the same etc. I have a big can of it.

For the record....I have never heard of Kano Kroil "gumming up". I have heard WD40 doing that. WD has no place around guns or precision equipment EVER!

Also as a side note after I bought the Kroil direct from Nashville, They sent me their newsletter for about 2 years afterward. Really neat stuff.

[Tom W.]

Yup, WD-40 will turn an orange color and get hard as a rock. I have a pint can of kroil a service man gave me when I was working at the sawmill. That was over ten years ago and I still have at least half of the can. When I first started using it I couldn't stand the smell, but now it doesn't affect me. The LGS had some Ballistisol wipes as a giveaway, I took three home and was really surprised. I ended up buying a can. It smells a bit strange, but works well. When I have the need to really clean my bores a Kroil soaked patch will go through first. It will loosen anything, at least in my firearms.

[tazman]

I seem to remember someone posting that Kroil was good for loosening lead deposits in barrels. I have never tried it but it is a good thing to remember just in case.

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

Kroil is great stuff. It will clean lead deposits as well. Just takes a little more time, and two or three soakings.

[mdi]

For the record....I have never heard of Kano Kroil "gumming up". I have heard WD40 doing that. WD has no place around guns or precision equipment EVER!
I agree. When I used WD40 a lot was on fishing reels that were used and cleaned often. If a part, or tool is to be cleaned and put away for any period of time I use Kroil. I have used Kroil on barrels as I've read that it will creep under/between the leading and the barrel. Seems to do so 'cause it works...

[Crash_Corrigan]

Nobody speaks to the major downside of this stuff. I had two smaller cans of Kroil in amongst all my reloading equipment and when I moved it remained with the equipment in sealed cardboard cartons in my garage for 14 months.

You must understand I live in Las Vegas. These cans went trough two; I repeat two scorching Las Vegas summers. From June to late September the temps range from 70 to 120 degrees with at least 80 days higher than 100 degrees and 20 or so higher than 110 and handful higher than 115.

Those two cans had fallen over and leaked everywhere in those cartons. Then to the cartons alongside and under until I had a stinking mess.

Now I have to go out and buy some more because it is great stuff.

[Plate plinker]

I like Kroil it seems to work very well for me.

[rondog]

I want some Kroil, but have never found it for sale anywhere. It is internet-order only? With a hazmat fee?

[Pb Burner]

I couldn't find it local either. Order it from Kano Labs.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

[Shawlerbrook]

Great stuff ! I bought 2 cans directly from Kano Labs about 10 years ago and am still on the first can. Also got the very interesting newsletter for a while.

[benellinut]

Good thread, reminded me it was time, just placed an order another pair of cans. For many years Kano Labs has run a web deals on two King Size spray cans for $14.95 with $5.95 shipping. You have to put in a business name on the form, make it up, doesn't matter if you have a business or not, it just a box that can't be left blank. They have two pages, both the same deal, links below. It's says one per customer, I think that means one two can deal per order, I've ordered about once every year and a half and it always goes through.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

http://www.kanolabs.com/yahoo/

it's great stuff, hands down the best penetrating oil I've ever used. I worked as a mechanic for 25 years and I've used just about every penetrating oil, some only sold to shops and some that have come and gone, Kroil has beat them all and it's the only one I'll use now. When I have to work on a rusty part, first thing I'll do is spray it with Kroil then proceed with other work while the oil works, if I can and it's really rusty I'll spray the parts a day or two ahead of time, repeating every 24 hours. You don't need to soak the parts, a little is all that's needed, just enough to coat the parts, if it's running off your wasting it! I've removed some really rusted parts that I was sure were beyond oil an I'd have to heat with a torch but Kroil has done the trick 98% of the time, just incredible stuff. Wish I knew about it when I was still on the line twisting wrenches, it would have saved me time which would have meant more money in my pocket!

A tip, when these spray cans get down to the last ounce or so they loose enough propellant to spray, when they get to that point I just a tiny awl and prick a punch a hole in the lower lip next to the roll crimp of the bottom lid, then another up higher for a vent hole. I drip drain the oil into a container then I put it in little plastic drip tip bottles to keep on the gun bench and in my range bag.

[tazman]

A tip, when these spray cans get down to the last ounce or so they loose enough propellant to spray, when they get to that point I just a tiny awl and prick a punch a hole in the lower lip next to the roll crimp of the bottom lid, then another up higher for a vent hole. I drip drain the oil into a container then I put it in little plastic drip tip bottles to keep on the gun bench and in my range bag.

That's a good tip. Thanks for posting.

[benellinut]

Thought I'd share, today kroil saved me time and work yet again. My 98 Jeep Cherokee started making noise from the rear, I found one of the big 1/2" u-bolts that holds the rear axle to the rear leaf springs had broke, there are two u-bolts on each side of the axle. Picked up two new u-bolts to replace both on that side, jacked her up and pulled the wheel, taking a look at the remaining u-bolt there was ton's of rust on the original nuts. One look and 25 years of being a mechanic said to me I'll have to cut those off, fastest way to remove them. But for the heck of it I decided to give them a shot of kroil and let it set for a few hours, when I came back later I put my impact gun on the nuts and they both spun right off, WOW! I'm telling you, I wish I had found kroil many years ago while I was twisting wrenches on the line, it would have saved me time and time is money in your pocket when on the line. Kroil it just the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Got an email from UPS, my two can online special order (links above) will be here next Tues. Kroil should pay me for advertising LoL. Seriously, it's great stuff guys, if you haven't tried it your loosing out.

[rondog]

OK, just ordered the two can deal, should last my limited lifetime, my stepsons, and both grandsons!

[Randy C]

I've used it for years Its the last patch I put through my barrel before I store my guns, I get mine at midway.

[Bzcraig]

Love the smell of Kroil...

[ubetcha]

If I recall, I thought I saw Kroil on the shelf at my local Ace Hardware store. I will have to remember to look again next time I go

[Three44s]

I have been using Kano products for going on twenty years.

They are great people and if you can not find it locally, order it from them.

I think aerokroil penetrates just a bit better than just plain kroil and silikroil penetrates the least of the three.

I like every version and apply them according to my needs. Silikroil has silicon added and I use it once I get something unstuck.

Kroil is a liquid non aerosol and is cheaper than aerokroil (aerosol form) so it is my dowsing formulation when needed.

Typically I am under a time constraint on the farm so I use the aero Kroil first and try the part, I reach for some heat and Kroil and aerokroil works better with heat than any other product I have used except for a thread cutting oil with a high sulphur content. As the penetrant burns off, I work the stuck item, as it further cools I get the part retreated and try it some more. Then I reheat and rework it. You will find that the petroleum burns into the rust and blends with it making it less binding. I repeat until I am successful, give up or destroy the part.

I tried the touted ATF/acetone mixture and did not see results anywhere near where the Kano products perform.

As other members have stated, you don’t typically drown a stuck part in penetrating oil and the Kano products are no exception and I don’t get my cans to last like some here have experienced ...... I have employees using my stash and they are not as judicious with it .... after all I write the checks for it, never the less I feel I am getting good value all things considered.

Three44s

[rintinglen]

Kroil is one of my go-to products. If I have leading in the barrel, I run a soaking patch of Kroil though the bore and let it set over night. The following morning, I shove a tight patch through the bore and out comes the lead. One or two passes and the bore is clear, the a couple patches of Hoppe's or Ed's Red and a couple more to dry and the barrel is clean. I have a Marlin Cowboy 45-70 that was a a little rough when I first got it and would lead up to the point where accuracy began to go south in 50 or 60 rounds. Kroil made the job of cleaning easy.

[gwpercle]

Kroil stinks almost as bad as Ballistol. Just seems most people can take the Kroil smell.

Clenzoil is another product that "reeks"....it works but I just can't get over the stink !