1893 Mauser

[EMC45]

Just put the verbal "I'll take it" on a 7X57 Mauser. Been sporterized. Monte carlo type wooden stock and no upper hand guards. The metal looks pretty good in the pictures and the thing seems to be in overall good shape. 75 bucks. Pretty good? I just got dies, brass and a one load reloading manual for this cal. Does it do well with cast? I know they have "generous" throats.

[Larry Gibson]

The 7x57 can be a pretty decent shooter with cast bullets. Definately need to slug or chamber cast the throat into the rifling. Also need to slug the bore. Many vintage 7x57 bores are .288 instead of the now standard .284.

Larry Gibson

[Buckshot]

............Ditto what Larry said. However it may be a real shooter. Do you know it's a 1893 Spanish, or just that it's a small ring? If the barrel comes in okay and not outsized, a great slug for it will be the RCBS 7mm-168. My 2cav using WW and a touch of lino weighs 172grs.

While not a small ring, from my M98/08 Brazilian Mauser I got this:

http://www.fototime.com/51033A5247B82E1/standard.jpg

At 50 yards, as issued rifle using that RCBS slug.

...............Buckshot

[EMC45]

Got it! Paid 75 bucks! It has been sporterized, but I would have paid 75 for the action alone. The oblong cut in the receiver is for a burst shell correct?http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_1803.jpghttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_1799.jpghttp://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_1800.jpg

[Junior1942]

I wish you'd learn how to post photos!!

My sporterized 1923 made 93 Mauser is one of the most accurate rifles I've ever owned--with jacketed bullets.

[EMC45]

Well after digging and cleaning this thing for a few hours I've realized that every part, except bolt, matches #s. All the guts have the same #. So the oblong hole is for a burst shell right? The stock is a Fajen I believe. The buttplate is for sure. The shells when feeding go hard left or hard right. The only one to feed straight is the last one. Any cure for this? Is it a follower issue? Or is it just the way it is?

[MtGun44]

The Mauser is a double feed rifle magazine. That is normal. All
matching numbers is very good. There should be maker info
on the left side of the receiver and/or a crest or maker info
on the top of the front receiver ring.

What does it say?

Bill

[Bret4207]

Yes, the oblong port is for escaping gas, which you'll never really have to worry about with modern components. I have a rifle thats nearly it's twin. My favorite rainy day deer rifle. Loves 160 jacketed at about 2500 fps. Cast?.... depends on the day it seems, but the RCBS 7mmx168 FN works okay.

[Echo]

Karamojo Bell used the 7x57 to shoot elephants. Had a bad experience with one, though. He was on his patio, enjoying adult beverages, when a big tusker wandered into his garden and started grazing. Bell picked up his 7x57, walked out, and shot the brute. The brute didn't take kindly to that treatment, threw Bell to the ground, did a little dance on him , then died.
I believe there is a lesson there - maybe two...

[Skipper]

EMC45, is the bottom front of the bolt round, or flat? Could be either a '93 or '95

[EMC45]

It is round and it says 1920 on the receiver ring. The bolt does not match the rest of the #s on this gun. I also have noticed the firing pin will need replacing. It was broke at one time and brazed to repair it. Numrich has them for 6 or so dollars. I saw in Brownells a follower that says first to last round a straight shot into the chamber. It does away with the left right feed I guess. Any opinions on this follower?

[Bret4207]

If it's round it's a '95. Don't sweat the FP, may work well as is and they need some gunsmithing to fit sometimes. They aren't drop in despite it seeming they should be.

Can't help on the follower. Why not try it as is? Mine all work fine.

[dominicfortune00]

There's no reason to change the follower for a straight shot one.

If your ammo is in spec, all other things being equal, the rifle is easily capable of feeding from the left or right of the built in magazine.

My '96 Swede, '09 Argentine, and 98K all are like this, and feed fine.

Good Luck,

dominicfortune00

[EMC45]

I ran some ammo through it last night and it throws it hard left and right. So bad that it takes a chunk of lead off the soft point. As a matter of fact when cleaning around the receiver ring I found a bunch of chunks of lead. I am just concerned about aerodynamics of the bullet downrange.

[bcp477]

The feeding problem (you are having) is most likely due to rough and poorly-shaped surfaces on the shoulders of the feed ramp....just under the forward ends of the magazine lips. MANY Mausers have this issue - regardless of manufacturer (and model). To check on this, remove the barreled receiver from the stock and look closely at the underside of the magazine lip/ feed ramp area. I bet that you will find that the surfaces are rather rough and not well-shaped. These feed ramp "shoulders" as I call them, are responsible for orienting the cartridge "noses" (bullets), as they transition from the magazine, up the feed ramp and into the chamber. If the shoulders are too rough and/ or poorly shaped, they will often cause the nose of the cartridge to be pushed too far over as the cartridge feeds - causing jamming against the far side of the chamber (edge) - or damage to the bullet (as you described). The reason that all but the last round experience feeding problems is that the pressure of the magazine spring against the cartridges changes, as the magazine empties. You should also take a close look at the operation of the mag spring, as well. They sometimes will have burrs on the edges, which hinder smooth operation. Also, check the magazine lips for burrs, as well.

If this is indeed the problem (as I think it is)....then this can be easily taken care of with a Dremel tool and a small-diameter grinding stone. Just reshape the feed ramp shoulder areas into a smooth, more subtle shape....and polish them a bit. Go slowly and remove only a little metal at a time....and test how the rifle feeds after each "session" with the grinder. You'll have the rifle feeding well in a very short time.

I learned this after studying and experimenting with my first Yugo M48 (which are notorious for this problem). After a little Dremel work, the rifle feeds every type of ammo I give it without problems FMJ's, soft-points, round-noses - even the short, flat-nose cast bullets I shoot now....the loaded cartridges with which are FAR shorter than with the military FMJ's for which the rifle was designed. I have since done 6 or 7 other rifles with this problem - all of which now function perfectly.

[EMC45]

I am going to look at the feeding area right now. A lot of the inside finish of this gun was rough. I am betting this is exactly what is wrong with this gun. Thanks bcp477!

[MtGun44]

Remember, military guns are designed to shoot full metal jacketed bullets and
many are rough on soft points or cast. A little polishing or even some rounding
of sharp edges may help a lot.

Also, there have been a lot of tests that show that even pretty severe damage
to the nose of a bullet has almost no effect on the flight. Not so with the base,
tiny damage can make a big difference.

Bill

[Dutchman]

Before you order any firing pin you better take a photo of the bolt face. I can clearly see the Ov of Oviedo on the receiver ring which means its a 1893 action. Spain did not make a 1895 Mauser action.

This shows the flat bottom bolt face of the 1893 Mauser action.
http://www.geocities.com/fritz125541/Spanmauhome

1895 Chilean bolts *will* fit and function in a 1893 German-made action but its not the right bolt for a 1893 action.
I don't know if the 1895 bolt will fit and function in a Spanish-made 1893 action. Argentine parts will have markings
identifying them as Argentine like the shaking hand stamp.


Dutch

[Bret4207]

Nice catch Dutchman!

[EMC45]

Thanks Dutchman! The pics were helpful. Alright here is what I have- Turned down bolt, flat at the bottom of the bolt face, thumb cut out on receiver, stripper clips don't work (too loose). Like I said all #s match and the are deeply stamped #s and not electric pencil #s. And BTW I started to work on the ramp last night. It has a angled ridge on the feed ramp something fierce! My other 2 Mausers (which feed fine) have a nice sloping trough/chute so to speak. I will continue to work on it to reduce to the angle and create a trough.

[Larry Gibson]

EMC45

That is an Oviedo M93 (M1916) you have. If it shoots well you might want to convert it to cock on opening. I converted My Oviedo years ago and it is a very worth while modification. I know this is contrary to what Khunhausen says but if done correctly it does not weaken the action/bolt at all. What it does do is give you a cock on opening very similar to the M70 Winchester with it's attendant faster lock time. I've done numerous of these conversions over the years and there've been no problems with any of them.

Larry Gibson

[Shootn]

Mr. Gibson.....I have a model 96 Swede that I have considered doing the cock on opening conversion too. Is this something a shadetree gunsmith can do himself?
Are any special tools needed?
Thank you sir....
Derek

[jjamna]

Mr Gibson....... I have a 93 (1916) Spanish Mauser that I would like to do the cock on opening conversion on.
Dito to what Shootn say's
JJamna
Jeff

[Ricochet]

They're yours to do as you like, but I like to keep my old rifles original, and after getting an 1893 Turkish Mauser, I can't see why anyone would want to do that. Cocking on closing is a better arrangement. Mauser didn't change to improve the system, he changed to make the German generals who'd previously adopted the cock-on-opening Gewehr 88 happy so they'd buy his M98.

Cocking on closing allows a much simpler, cheaper, more easily machined bolt. It's less disruptive of shooting position when keeping the rifle at the shoulder and working the bolt, exactly opposite of what the Springfield chauvinist gun writers said that I read when I was a kid. Opening a bolt against the resistance of cocking the mainspring produces a counterclockwise torque that's not easily resisted by the extended left forearm, but pushing the bolt closed against the spring's resistance is easily resisted by a back pull on the forend.

[MtGun44]

I second Ricochet's whole post.

I started with a 1895 DWM with cock on closing and from reading, felt I had
the 'second rate' design and the cock on opening M98 was supposed to be
superior. Then I got some 98 Mausers, Springfields, etc. They changed my
mind.

IMHO the cock on opening makes for more effort as you are doing primary
extraction and cocking at the same time when you have poor leverage.
OTOH when you are ramming the bolt home you have your whole arm behind
the bolt and you will never even notice the cocking effort. You will notice that
the intial bolt opening rotation and primary extraction (breaking the case loose)
will be lighter effort with any of the cock on closing actions - SMLE, M93/95 etc.

My 2 cents worth.

Bill

[Buckshot]

http://www.fototime.com/CCFF3ACDE861C7A/standard.jpg

The 1894 Brazilians were all milled for the chinned bolts. Look just ahead of the bullet in the photo at the feed ramp. You can tell it's milled for the chin. The tang shows it even clearer but I don't have any photos of that.

http://www.fototime.com/54CA70973018D20/standard.jpg

I lied, I do have one. Just not a good one. You can see the tang is milled flat on either side of the milled sear channel.

That oval gas port is a dead give away that it's a 1893 Spaniard.

.................Buckshot

[Larry Gibson]

Yes the cock on opening conversion can be done with a few tools, mostly a good dremel and several appropriate grinding wheels for it along with some cratex polishing wheels. It's best to have a M70 bolt to use as a model. Important part is the correct mating of the cocking surface and cam surface. It's really not hard to do just take your time, think about what you are going to do before doing it and refering to the M70 bolt often.

There are alwyas a few who decry the "advantages" of the cock on closing action. However just ask yourself how many new cock on closing center fire bolt action rifles have been made in the last 50 years, ok 75 years......gee, I guess it's more than 100 years! The few hold outs obviously know more about what is best than the rest of the world. I and millions of others have had absolutely no problems manipulating a cock on opening bolt correctly from the should as intended. There are also two other advatages to the cock on opening conversions; first is the decreased lock time and second is the elimination of the rifle jarring "thump" of that heavy M93 striker slamming home. Both enhance the accuracy potential of the rifle and the shooter.

Larry Gibson

[bobk]

Larry,
Many people are not aware that bolt actions work any other way than cock-on-opening. I knew about it, but never experienced it until I got my Smelly and Swede. Having now used both, I see the advantage of the cock-on-closing. But, no. my other rifles are not for sale. I'm a hunter, and I have never ever done anything useful with a second or subsequent shot. As a practical matter, I don't care if it's COC, COO, or single shot, When it comes to a bolt battle rifle, though, it's hard to beat the reputation of the Smelly for rapid fire. As most of us here are hunters and/or target shooters, the whole question ranks right up there with the hoary old "What's Better, the .270 or .30-'06?"
Bob K

[Ricochet]

Exactly. The "experts" have told us the way the 98 did it was best for 100 years, and few have tried any other way.

I don't have any trouble using a cock on opening action either, I just think the cock on closing is better after trying it.

Another advantage is when a case sticks in the chamber. With cock on opening, you have the primary extraction effort combined with the cocking effort, and one trick often recommended to help is to cock the action manually. Not an issue with cock on closing.

But with all the cock on opening actions available, why not just get one that way in the first place, and leave a nice old piece the way it was made? They're not making any more.

[Larry Gibson]

bobk

The problem with "reputations" is, like myths, they usually get bigger and better as time and retelling go on. I'm a practical sort of guy when it comes to things like the speed of the SMLE over other bolt actions. I guess I got it from hearing so many BS barracks stories in the Army that just didn't pan out in the real world. I've held and shot in a lot of military matches (older type bolt actions) and also competed in a lot of high power matches. I've seen a lot of bolts worked really fast in rapid fire. NMC shooters go with what works to win. The less time and disturbance of position manipulating the bolt mean more time "on target". If the cock on closing bolt was indeed quicker and easier to use it would be used. It is not. What is used are cock on opening M70s, M700s and several newer cock on opening actions. I guess the "most of us" that are target shooters and use a bolt gun understand that. The SMLE action has been available to NMC shooters for many, many years. It is a legal action to use in “match rifle” category. If it was a superior bolt action in rapid fire it would have been used. I have never seen a NMC shooter use a SMLE for a match rifle. The myth does not hold up to the facts. Please don’t come back with the myth of the Germans thinking they were being shot at by machine guns in WWI.

With mediocre or untrained soldiers (or competitors) the SMLE is no doubt faster for the first 10 shots, mostly because of the magazine capacity not the "faster" bolt. Most of these will lower the butt of the rifle to work the bolt anyway which negates the SMLE's speed of bolt manipulation. In sustained courses of fire the SMLE puts out no more rounds than a M1903 when both are used correctly by trained shooters. Now on the other hand, if we compare it to the M91 MN or a straight bolt handled Mauser (cock on closing or on opening) then the SMLE comes out on top quite handily. But then so does the M1903 and the K98. However the reason for that is a function of the shape of the bolt handle, not the cock on closing feature. Compare the rate of fire of the SMLE to the M96 Swede, the M91 MN or the GEW M98 for instance and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I too am a hunter. However I am not so self confident to know I'll only need and/or use one shot to cleanly kill every animal. I always reload during recoil with the rifle still shouldered and am ready to shoot again if required. Most often it is not but if it is I am ready. I see time and again very poor weapons craft on the range and on the hunting TV shows. We always see (even the PHs on African shows) hunters that shoot and then lower the rifle to see the effect of the one shot. We almost always see them lower the rifle to reload, if they reload at all. One particular example was of a lion coming on and mauling a couple hunters including the PH. All of them would shoot and then lower the rifle to reload. Very poor weapons craft and marksmanship displayed in that video also. Had the lion struck and kept going it would have gotten cleanly away. As I said, I am not quite that confident. I always reload with the rifle shouldered and am ready for another shot if it is necessary.

I do not advocate altering military rifles if they are in good condition and are actually of some collector interest. However the current "everything older than 6 seconds is a collector piece" does not hold up with me. I see many milsurp rifles that are poor specimens and of no value as a collector item. These would be better served if they can be made into a nice shooting rifle (that is my opinion). A M93, such as EMC45’s already sporterized rifle, is the rifle under discussion is a fine candidate to improve its shootability.

That you disagree is fine and I do not say your liking of cock on closing is wrong. You are entitled to your opinion and I am entitled to mine in which I think this M93 is a good candidate for the cock on opening conversion. It is my opinion based on several conversions that it does indeed promote better shootability of these fine actions. I offered EMC45 an additional option for his rifle. It is up to him to say whether it is to his liking or not.

Thank you for your input.

Larry Gibson

[KCSO]

EARLY 93's have a flat bottom, later ones were roud and the so called 95 is round. Mauser sold these as M93-95 and othher than the lip for the bolt that forms a type of safety lug there is no structural difference in the action. Spanish Mausers tend to be rough but with a little smoothing they are as good as any other. If you take a dowell and polish the feed ramps to 400 grit you will be amazed at the difference.

[EMC45]

Awesome discussion we got going here. Yes the rifle as evident by the pics has already been modified. I will not hunt down a stock to bring it back to mil configuration. It has a Fajen stock on it and it is not bad except for the high monte carlo comb, which I will thin. The trigger is military, but very smooth(was quite gummy and gritty before I scrubbed it all out). The barrel is quite long and the sights are v notch and inverted v up front. Wow not a fan of that set up. Haven't shot it yet, so I won't consider any mods until I do. Except for the comb, because I can barely get a good sight picture with out jamming my face hard into the stock cheek piece. I know that is one thing that will change. The bolt? I kind of fancy the cock on closing idea. It's not too bad. I do appreciate all the ideas and helpful opinions.

[jjamna]

After reading all the post, I think I will leave mine as is. I am not very fast with either so It really doesn't matter. I just like to work on guns and it sounded like something I might be able to do.

[EMC45]

Shot the Mauser this afternoon. Shoots very high. I only shot at 25 yds to see were it printed. I am going to get a high Mauser sight for the front and see were the thing shoots then with reloads. I was shooting some 145 gr Winchester Power Points. I did notice one thing though, when shooting the last couple rounds I noticed a small warm puff of air on my cheek. It was a blown primer. The firing pin repair is probably not a keeper. I may still get another one from Numrich or work with this one. It has potential. I will keep at 'er!

[Ricochet]

Check your firing pin protrusion.

[Bret4207]

Larry- Had the Springfield '03 been designed as cock on closing instead of copying the '98 Mauser then all the NMC shooters might well be using COC actions! IMO the fact everyone uses COO actions is less a function of mechanical superiority than familiarity. Not trying to urinate in your Wheaties, but we tend to stick with what we're used to and what is accurate. Not too many SMLE's around that will compete with a NM Springfield or M-70. It would be interesting to build a truly accurate SMLE 303 and see if it could compete.

Personally, I use both styles and am happy with either. I also have to agree completely with your assessment of bolt manipulation from the shoulder. I don't think most folks these days even know it can be done!

[felix]

Cock on opening is way superior for an experimenter because it is much easer to feel the cartridge effects going into the chamber. Most especially for tight neck, headspace designs. ... felix

[bobk]

felix,
Or, you could do what I have done and take the firing pin out of the bolt. This was learned by hard experience on a 788. I stuck one, and thought,"No problem, I'll just give the bolt a whack with a length of kindling." Found out those bolts are soldered on, except mine wasn't anymore. The camming power of a bolt action is almost TOO strong; things you would feel on a levergun never draw your attention on a boltgun.

Bob K

[Larry Gibson]

Bret4207

I've been in competions against Canadians with SMLEs shooting not only the NMC but various Canadian combat matches. The Americans shot bolt guns from M70s, M700 to M1903 and M1917s. Sometimes a Ross MK10 showed along with a Mauser or two. The Canadian rifles generally held 2 MOA which was quite sufficient for the matches. These were usually side bar matches as the main matches were shot with M14/M1As, FALs and R7s (M16s). The SMLE held thier own for the first 10 shots but since accurate fire was required the rate of fire was pretty much the same. However with a 10 round magazine they got off 1-2 shots while the others reloaded. Then they generrally didn't do as well as the M1903s, M70s and M700s as they were slower to load with the stripper clips as most of them lost that 1-2 shot lead on the first reload they did. Their rate of fire generally fell further behind the more reloads required. There were more soldiers trained on the M1917 and thus "familiar" with it than the M1903 during WWI. If the Cock on closing M1917 had any advantage it would have ben used. Perhaps post WWI up through the '40s and early '50s when match shooters had been trained with the M1903 in the service there was more familiararity. However WWII and post WWII soldiers/Marines were not trained on the '03 and were not familiar with it. Thus I disagree that that familiarity played a role.

In match rifle competition the choice of action is up the the shooter. If the SMLE or the M1917 cock on closing had any advantage they would have been used. Note the actions in use today such as the Tubb 2000 have changed this to cock on retraction (extraction?) as it basically is a bolt action AR action. My point is; they use what works best and cock on closing was not even considered. I use both also as I've 2 Swedes in original condition. They are fun to shoot and are extremely accurate but they are no where as quick to use as my Swede that is now cock on opening. Which to use is a moot point for fun shooting as both types are fun to shoot anyways.

Larry Gibson

[Bret4207]

Well, that's interesting that the SMLE was used like that. Question answered I guess. I do have to disagree about the Marines prior to WW2 using Enfield 17's. Everything I've seen says the Marines had '03's in the teens and certainly in the 20's and 30's "Banana Wars" and up through WW2. If the Marines were using "17 Enfields they sure didn't talk about it much.

[EMC45]

Did a little work on the firing pin today. I shortened it a bit and also rounded the thing off. It was real squared before, but now a lot better and rounded. Snapped a few primers and it is a lot different and quite a bit better.

[EMC45]

Well I'm embarrassed to say this rifle has been relined!?!?!?!?! I was looking at it today and noticed the ring around the muzzle. Was this common for these guns? It also has a 300 Meter Battle Zero! Need a real tall front sight!

[EMC45]

Well I am done with it for now. I sanded the stock down and reconfigured the pistol grip and refit the buttplate. Thinned out the cheekpiece too. In the beginning pics you can see the stock had a real reddish look about it. I sanded it down and I believe it to be walnut. It smelled like walnut when I was sanding. I also shortened and rounded the firing pin and stoned all the trigger bearing surfaces and gave everything a good greasing. I have 10 rds loaded up with 160 gr. Speer SPs. Ready to rock'n'roll!

[EMC45]

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_1817.jpghttp://i29
8.photobucket.com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_1820.jpghttp://i298.photobucket.
com/albums/mm243/Evansguns/102_1821.jpg

[Antietamgw]

I read the other evening in Luwig Olson's book on Mausers that the '93 used lined barrels. Guess high pressure and liners done right does work! If you have the issue front ramp on your barrel, try one of the high Swedish front blades. Dovetail is right, blade is a post - doesn't give you a sight picture that looks like the sun setting on a round top hill... Rear can be changed or altered but just having a post on the front is an improvement IMHO. Let us know how it shoots! I'm anxious to get my bubba special up and running.

[EMC45]

Well I took her out and shot 10 rounds I loaded up. They scattered like crazy. I was shooting off of bags at about 70 yds. I noticed the primers were backing out some(headspace issues) Then on my last round I rack the bolt back and all I got was the case head! Separated!!! I do believe this thing has some problems. She shined up good though. I just checked Brownells and the have small ring barrels in 35 Rem, but they are about 2 bills. Ouch!!! The 98 barrels are about 100. I could swing that. Let me know what you guys think. Other than that the FR8 shot really good and the K31 Swiss shoot good as well.

[Molly]

...Many vintage 7x57 bores are .288 instead of the now standard .284. Larry Gibson

I was once (briefly) the owner of a M. 93 in 7x57 with a near mint bore. the first few shots told me why: bullets keyholed at any range. It's entire history probably consisted of firing a few shots, and back to the armory until everyone that knew about it was retired, at which point it was again fired a few times, ... Investigation revealed that the bore dia was correct, but the GROOVE dia was actually 0.300". It had REAL deep rifling. The guy on the rifling machine must have gone on break at the wrong time. (BG)

Molly

[Antietamgw]

If you are going to remove the barrel you might want to check out the bolt lug seats in the action before ordering another barrel. If they have set back much it might not be worth rebarreling. I have an extra 21" '93 barrel that doesn't look too bad. Sights still on and not buggered up when it was removed. It would be cheap. 35 Rem would make a dandy little rifle, wouldn't it? I had ER Shaw barrel one some years back when Brownell's didn't have them in stock and Shilen didn't know when they would be making them. It shot jacketed well, fouled terribly. Supposed to be better now. Cheaper but more work is the A&B unthreaded , unchambered barrel from Midway.

[EMC45]

Looked at the A&B in Midway catalog too. They look like a good deal. What would have caused the lugs to have set back?

[bruce drake]

LOTS of use.

[Bob S]

... and soft receiver.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

[Buckshot]

.............To check for lug setback into the shoulder:

1) Remove firing pin, spring and bolt shroud. Insert and close the bolt.

2) While applying light rearward pressure on the bolt, slowly lift the handle.

3) Watch closely between the bolt root and rear of the reciever bridge as a referance while lifting the bolt handle.

4) If the lugs have caused the shoulder to setback you will see the bolt move forward slightly as you lift the handle. This is the lugs raising up out of the recesses in the shoulders.

This is just a real quick and dirty check, but it will provide positive info.

..............Buckshot

[Larry Gibson]

... and soft receiver.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

Respectfully....but that is still debatable. Because some poorly made or misused M93 actions have been found does not mean all M91, M93, M95 and M96 actions are "soft". Not saying one should shoot magnum loads but I've been measuring the pressure of numerous milsurp and commercial 7x57, 7.65 and 6.5x55 that are supposed to be "safe" to shoot in these "soft" SR actions. Might surprise you to know that several of those "old" cartridges surpass the measured pressure of U.S. M80 7.62 NATO along with Federal and Winchester .308 Winchester ammo when both are measured with the same equipment and using the same psi measurement. Many confuse the old conversion of CUP into psi vs todays psi measurements. They are not the same. Probably why the 1928 Oveido I have shot out 2 barrels chambered in .308 with lots of M80, commercial .308 ammo and equivelent handloads. Ialso load my M91 up to equal factory pressure with 150 gr .312 bullets and they run 2750 fps out of a 22" barrel. I load my M95 with 22" barrel with 175 Hornady RNs over H4831 to SAAMI specs for the 7x57 and they run right at 2400 fps...just where the classic load says they should run.

Again, I'm not saying to shoot magnum type loads but there no sense in claiming the sky is falling when it isn't. If some chooses to shoot lessor loads in his SR Mauser then that's ok as it is their choice. But Idon't think we should make claims of hell and damnation if one simply wants to duplicate the specs of factory and military ammo of those cartridges.

Larry Gibson