easiest to cast

[lablover]

Brass, Aluminum Steel? What do you find is the easiest mold to make the best looking boolits. I have several aluminum and am in the prowl for something new. I'd love to try Brass but fear I'd do more damage than good.

Thanks Guys

Joe

[Scorpius]

For me so far the steel Lyman. The Lee aluminum heat way too quick and slows me way down.
Haven't tried brass yet.


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[MyFlatline]

I started with aluminum because of the weight, I have stayed with aluminum because of the weight. I have no complaints. I have NOE, Accurate and Lee molds.

[MT Gianni]

I find it easy to transition between iron, mehenite, and aluminum. They each need different cool times when warm.

[WALLNUTT]

If you can use aluminum you can use brass. I really don't have a preference but they are all different. I will say the easiest to cast with are Saeco but aluminum and brass are the easiest to keep and are always ready to cast with and cast great bullets.

[hermans]

If the mold temp is correct, your alloy temp is correct, and your casting cadence for the specific mold is also correct, then they all produce perfect boolits. The only negative thing for me about brass molds, is the weight. On some of my 4 cavity and 6 cavity brass molds, they really wear me out after about 2 hours of casting.

[EMC45]

I have one brass single cavity mold (copy of the Lyman 3118). You have to cast very hot and fast with that mold. The majority of my molds are aluminum, which cast just fine for me. I have iron molds and they work very well too. I like them all.

[centershot]

I started with aluminum because of the weight, I have stayed with aluminum because of the weight. I have no complaints. I have NOE, Accurate and Lee molds.

THIS, EXACTLY!! And, as with any other mould, once you learn where the "sweet spot" is on pot temp you'll shuck out quality boolits just as fast as anybody else!

[reed1911]

I have all different types and iron and alum. are my top preferences. Brass is way to heavy and you do have to cast HOT. I only use brass when I have to it does well on softer alloys in my opionon (20:1, 30:1, etc). Iron will outlast alum. but if you are not hard on your tools, you likely never wear out an alum. mold.

[runfiverun]

I have all three, some of them are good to go at room temp.
some of them I open and and all the bullets fall out.
some of them I have to smack while holding the mold sideways.
I got no preference beyond boolit design.

[dragon813gt]

I have all three, some of them are good to go at room temp.
some of them I open and and all the bullets fall out.
some of them I have to smack while holding the mold sideways.
I got no preference beyond boolit design.

Same here except I don't have any steel molds. Not an option for me in the rust belt. The answer to the OP's question is it's personal preference.

[Harter66]

Iron is hard with small cavities in in big blocks . A 4 cavity Lyman in 25 cal at 90 gr is work . 5C 22-55 in Aluminum is fast and easy a 5C aluminum 454424 will over heat and make you stop for a slug of water about every 15-18 pours .
I have a single brass mould and good grief what a pita to get to pour the first good keepers . Now that I finally have it patina'd or whatever it's probably one of the slickest moulds I own .

If you're a bull and you don't mind the extra weight iron 1,2 and 3C moulds in blocks proportion to the cavities . Brass is nice but it's heavy also .
With iron or brass a 1000 bullet 4 hr run will make you happy for the reheat breaks .
Running Aluminum moulds I've run them long enough to be caught of guard by a low pot .

I really can't say that any particular mould mat'l is better but rather that each has it's virtues and faults . For all the fault of aluminum the weight is a huge virtue .

[tucumcari_kid]

I use my classic molds most, usually steel. Aluminum seems to be okay, but I feel like Im messing with the heat more and the mold temp seems finicky (could just be me, though) I just bought my 1st brass mold, and I love it, when it warms up. But, I tire quickly, those things are heavy, man. I have one bronze, I believe. Havent used it because it's about the 4th of 4 too many 358/360 wadcutter molds. let's face it though, bullet design trumps mold material. You just have to practice and learn your molds and find the sweet temp. As everyone has already said more than once. ;)

[BHill]

I have steel and aluminum molds but I have just recently started using the steel. I have some older Ideal molds and the bullets just flow out of them.

[rintinglen]

I have found that it easiest to cast good boolilts with an Iron or other iron alloy mold, but brass, once up to temperature is a very close second.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

I only have aluminum but am about to buy my first steel mold, it will be a accurate 3 cavity .366 9.3mm 286gr mold in the larger size block. im sure it wont be light but with 3 big holes drilled in it I don't think it will be too bad. I am excited to get it and try steel out!

[gwpercle]

Steel is the easiest for a beginner. They can take a lot of neglect. I never lubed my Lyman moulds and once broken in don't seem to need a lot of TLC or babying . Aluminum requires some TLC and can be temperamental . Decades of using Lee moulds and this site has taught me the ins and outs of aluminum moulds. I was blown away with my first aluminum NOE mould but you still have to baby and lube them to avoid problems like galling the sprue cutter and mould block top. Aluminum is very soft and easily damaged
Any smears on a steel mould can be scrubbed off with steel wool or scraped off with a razor with no damage to blocks.
Therefore I'm going to say steel moulds are easiest for a beginner.
I've never tried brass but I know brass is a soft metal also and would expect it to require some TLC in use.
Steel makes a good looking bullet, the old Lee moulds did not but the new Lee moulds look much better. The NOE moulds make a great looking bullet. I am sure it's how the block cavities are cut, attention to detail and design that make the difference. NOE's are well designed and look great . Lyman has discontinued so many moulds, when I discovered they were no longer going to make any 41 magnum moulds I started searching ebay for used ones. Those used Lymans were priced way too high. I found 1 new mould made by Lee and then found NOE , they make 9 different 41 magnum moulds , even a Elmer Keith Signature Mould that is a duplicate of his original SWC design the Lyman no longer carries. Best of all I can get them in 3 cavity moulds, my favorite size.
Gary

[robg]

A mold that works well is a good mold ,but I'd go with aluminium as its easier on the wrists.

[DerekP Houston]

I love my brass molds, but the hg 50 steel is my favorite mold and easiest to cast with. Drops keepers almost every time with little to no effort on my part.

[lablover]

Steel is the easiest for a beginner. They can take a lot of neglect. I never lubed my Lyman moulds and once broken in don't seem to need a lot of TLC or babying . Aluminum requires some TLC and can be temperamental . Decades of using Lee moulds and this site has taught me the ins and outs of aluminum moulds. I was blown away with my first aluminum NOE mould but you still have to baby and lube them to avoid problems like galling the sprue cutter and mould block top. Aluminum is very soft and easily damaged
Any smears on a steel mould can be scrubbed off with steel wool or scraped off with a razor with no damage to blocks.
Therefore I'm going to say steel moulds are easiest for a beginner.
I've never tried brass but I know brass is a soft metal also and would expect it to require some TLC in use.
Steel makes a good looking bullet, the old Lee moulds did not but the new Lee moulds look much better. The NOE moulds make a great looking bullet. I am sure it's how the block cavities are cut, attention to detail and design that make the difference. NOE's are well designed and look great . Lyman has discontinued so many moulds, when I discovered they were no longer going to make any 41 magnum moulds I started searching ebay for used ones. Those used Lymans were priced way too high. I found 1 new mould made by Lee and then found NOE , they make 9 different 41 magnum moulds , even a Elmer Keith Signature Mould that is a duplicate of his original SWC design the Lyman no longer carries. Best of all I can get them in 3 cavity moulds, my favorite size.
Gary

I think you nailed it Gary. I have a Noe mold and right now it's at Al's shop again because I didn't baby it enough or lube. My alignment pins started to gouge the alignment holes in the other block. Not sure how it started but nevertheless it happened. I'm hoping Al can fix it up and make it right for me. I will say it cast awesome Boolits for sure until my pin issue. I think I'm gonna seek out a 160 gr .452 SWC design in steel. I think Accurate makes a good looking 160 gr. Maybe after more experience I'll move to brass.

[barrabruce]

One with only a couple of lube grooves which are tapered and a medium nose length as well as a not so large metplate.
They will just jump out of a mould.
Loverins with lots of narrow grooves can be a pain at times till you hit the sweet spot.

[ShooterAZ]

For me the #1 Preference is Steel/Iron, #2 is Brass, #3 is Aluminum. All work fine and have their temp/cadence preferences, but overall my RCBS and Lyman molds are the easiest to use and cast the best boolits. My multi-cavity molds are all aluminum just because of the weight factor.

[KenT7021]

I have iron and aluminum molds.The iron molds are a mix of Ideal,Lyman,RCBS,SAECO,and Lachmiller.Some the Lymans are four cavity.If I'm casting linotype I normally only use three cavities since the sprue is easier to cut with three cavities.I store the molds with the last bullets cast left in the mold since Western Wa can be a bit wet.My aluminum molds are all older Lees and I avoid using them unless it's a limited production mold in a odd caliber.The last brass mold I used came with a replica cap & ball revolver.They were of questionable quality.I have zero problems with iron molds and tend to stay with that material when buying molds.I recently pulled out a mold I last used around 25 years ago and left bullets in the cavities.No rust in the cavities and got good bullets immediately.

[WALLNUTT]

Brass is heavy but I've found if I limit brass to two cavities, they're fine. If I want a four cavity, I get aluminum. The vintage moulds are iron or steel.

[DocSavage]

I have to an't mit I like my aluminum mold over my steel/iron molds.I can cast for longer periods with my aluminum molds There's no reason an aluminum molds shouldn't hold up as well as steel if treated with reasonable care.

[Harles Dawson]

I have to an't mit I like my aluminum mold over my steel/iron molds.I can cast for longer periods with my aluminum molds There's no reason an aluminum molds shouldn't hold up as well as steel if treated with reasonable care.l agree 100%. If you don't know how to care for them, you can get great advice on this board. Harles

[white eagle]

cast iron

[Smoke4320]

Quality Aluminum molds if kept lubed properly and not hammered to death will last many years.. Probably have 25+ NOE Molds nearly all HP Aluminum and they do well after broken in
MP Brass Molds are my favorite but you have to get them HOT first

[WFO2]

I'm pretty new to casting only been doing it for a bout three years now . For me hands done the steel or iron molds cast the easiest . I just cant seem to get the cadence down on the aluminum molds. Have not tried brass yet . Give me a warm pot and an RCBS or Lyman mold and I will cast my old butt off .

[lablover]

Just bought a Iron from SS the other day. Can't wait to give it a try!

[lightman]

I've never used anything except iron, except once. I've been very pleased with iron. Years ago, like 40 years ago, I had a Lee 2 cavity. Being nice, I'll just say it was problematic and did not earn a permanent place on my casting bench. I'm considering a custom Accurate or NOE but I'm still struggling with the memory of that first aluminum Lee mold. I know, an Accurate or NOE mold is a whole different animal!

Yes, iron is heavy. Especially when you get into 4 or more cavities. But when you get it up to temperature it is easy to maintain and they are pretty tough.

[10gaOkie]

During 30+ years of casting, I like my Lyman and RCBS steel molds just fine. However, the Lee, NOE, Accurate aluminum molds are my favorite. I have never had any problems with any of them. I have bought a few used Lee molds that needed attention after there previous owner beat them up. Mostly replacing the sprue plate brought them back to good condition. I dont have to think about it, my next mold will be aluminum. If I need high production for pistol, I choose a Lee 6-cavity. If I need a custom rifle bullet mold, I choose a 3 cavity Accurate mold./Chris

[kens]

I have all three, some of them are good to go at room temp.
some of them I open and and all the bullets fall out.
some of them I have to smack while holding the mold sideways.
I got no preference beyond boolit design.

+1
My favorite mold is the 6banger Lee 45 TC. Because of bullet design, they just fall out of the mold, 6 at a time, its my favorite.
I have Lyman, Lee, and NOE and MP of differing designs,
Now when I choose a mold, I look at bullet design to see if I think they will just fall out.

I have a loverin mold from a top maker, I hate it, the loob grooves make it stick.
The best mold is the one that the bullets just fall out of !!!!...........

[MT Chambers]

1. Iron
2. Brass
3. Aluminum
4. Wood
5. Plastic
6. Lee

[Oklahoma Rebel]

lol... my next mold will definitely be iron/steel!

[NoAngel]

The easiest molds to get perfect bullets from, that I’ve ever used, were all old Ideal iron single cavity. They just make GOOD bullets without headaches.

[Bigslug]

Big fan of brass here - especially if you're doing something with hollow point or base pins. It holds heat and doesn't make you rush like some aluminum molds can.

[john.k]

I have lots of iron molds,RCBS,Ohaus ,Lyman,PH,that work great.RCBS 45/300 that bullets do fall out of.Even cut the GC groove out of it.Lots of Lees too,some good,some not so,all value for money.However a recent Lyman 314299 is a shocker.Bullets stick like glue to either side,no ammount of rapping shifts them,I had to make a brass point and blade to hook them from the mold.Steel.I believe.Have done the obvious like deburring,going over cavity with a match head.No improvement.Last Lyman for me.Ill stick to Lee.