New gun!

[sniper]

I just received delivery of a Ruger GP 100 Wiley Clapp edition revolver...3" barrel, Novak sights, and a rather uhmmmm...Utiitarian matte Stainless finish. :)

Trigger pull...5 lbs single action; double action...smooth, but beyond my trigger pull gauge's scale. That will be seen to after a reasonable break-in period. I would like a double action trigger pull around 8-9 pounds, and a single action pull about 4 lbs. Is there a spring set that will accomplish that?

The barrel will not accept a .356 range rod, but a .357 minus .0002 rod fits my cylinder throats in fine fashion...A .358 Minus .0002 fits the cylinder throats very snug, but smoothly, after a light anointing with 3 in 1 oil. Jacketed .357 boolits go through with hardly a push necessary.

I don't cast, and, I think the cylinder throat dimension is the critical one, so, what size bullets should I order for my size cylinder throats? .358 or the .359, for +.001 over cylinder throat size for accuracy and minimal leading? Will a .357 boolit at maybe 16 BHN obturate enough to fill the cylinder throat, or...doesn't it matter all that much?

Thanx!:)

[LUCKYDAWG13]

this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/303418/wolff-shooters-spring-pack-ruger-gp100-reduced-power?cm_vc=S016 just one off of youTube
that i picked I put wolf springs in my SP101 it did help a lot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFLEGrNI5CA

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

" ...

[Bzcraig]

Put a set of Wolff springs in my GP100 and it is very nice now.

[rking22]

Based on what you have posted for cyl throat measure ,I would start at .358 sized cast bullets. That's assuming all 6 are the same dia. Ideally a snug push fit to the .358 throat with the groove dia of the barrel under .358 dia should be a good start.

[Petrol & Powder]

TriggerShims.com [AKA Michigan Center Outdoors] : http://triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html

They Are GREAT people to deal with.

On the GP-100 and SP101 I like to drop the main spring (hammer spring) weight by a few pounds but I often maintain the stock trigger return spring for a positive trigger reset. The factory hammer spring is 14# (the early GP-100's from the 1980's were even heavier). It's my experience that 10# is as low as you can go without misfires and frankly, you don't need to even go that low for a good trigger.
Polishing a few key components and shimming the trigger will allow a better trigger pull AND improves the reliability.
A 12# hammer spring, some careful polishing and some shims will do wonders for a GP-100.

I don't like to shim the hammer on a GP because it's a PITA to reinstall the shims every time you remove the hammer and hammer shims don't seem to change much anyway.

[rintinglen]

I can second the endorsement of the Trigger Shims people and their products. I installed a set on my 327 Ruger Sp 101. It had left the factory with a trigger pull reminiscent of those fine old German pot metal clunkers that used to lie in wait for the unwary back in the 70's. It is much smoother now with a set of Wolff springs and the aforementioned shims.

While I agree with Petrol that the hammer shims are a bit of nuisance to re-install every time you remove the hammer, they do keep the hammer from impinging on the frame as it wanders from side to side on the hammer pin. I consider that a worthwhile trade off. YMMV.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

e ...

[Petrol & Powder]

A little dab of oil on the shim "sticks" it to the hammer ... then gently slide it in, use a thin feeler gauge to guide them into place ...

I use a little dab of grease to hold them but it's still annoying.
I wish there was a "Top Hat" style shim that had an integral bushing that entered the pivot hole in the hammer. That would require a larger hole in the hammer or a smaller diameter hammer pin but it would simplify the re-installation of the hammer with the shims in place. If the shims were made of some type of Oilite bronze they would have the added benefit of reducing friction between the hammer and hammer pin.