Question on Elk Grip repair

[bluelund79]

I have a set of slim Elk grips for a full size 1911. Mine developed a crack going from the top bushing hole until about half way down the center. I love the way these grips fit and feel in the hand, so I'd like to repair them. Google has been helpful to a point, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience in repairing that material, and if so, what did you use/do/ send them off to whom? Thanks in advance, Eric

[GhostHawk]

I am just making a WAG here. But if it was me I would use an Epoxy. You may want to use a dremel to chamfer the edges of the crack some. Make it easier to work epoxy into it with a toothpick.

I would do it in stages. Fill the crack first, then clamp together. Then a thin layer across the back side. Then sand smooth for good fit to gun.

Even a cheap Harbor freight 5 min epoxy should do a good job of locking them back together and reinforcing them so it does not happen again.

You may want to add some filler to that epoxy so it is not so clear. Not obviously elk horn. If you have some deer horn I would sand that to get some fine powder that could be mixed in with the epoxy. You'd have to test to see how well the color will match.

Best of luck.

[bluelund79]

Love the idea of the filler. Thank you for that idea!

[DougGuy]

Superglue is best for bone and antler.

[bluelund79]

Dang, didn't know that. I guess I'll just have to "go for it" when I get back from a work trip

[pietro]

.

FWIW, a taxidermist "fixed" the antler of a whitetail deer my Son took.

One of his (.44 cal) shots at the running buck went through the buck's main beam.

When he finished, the repair was invisible to me - and I knew just where to look (I had taken a pic right after he shot it).

The taxidermist told me he used an epoxy, suitably colored.


.

[bluelund79]

.

FWIW, a taxidermist "fixed" the antler of a whitetail deer my Son took.

One of his (.4cal) shots at the running buck went through the buck's main beam.'

When he finished, the repair was invisible to me - and I knew just where to look (I had taken a pic right after he shot it).

The taxidermist told me he used an epoxy, suitably colored.


.

Holy buckets, why didn't I think of that? I know my Dad and Godfather had fixed a tine on a customers buck a couple "years" back. I now feel a peg lower, but a pinch wiser. Thank you for the epiphany!

[lefty o]

i was thinking acraglass as its sorta white and can be colored.

[Any Cal.]

Fixed up Knife handle by filling the crack with super glue over several days. It would shrink, so the following day would fill the crack up again. Probably 6-7 applications, then polished it up, and it looked great. Matched the natural lines in the handle. FWIW.

[GhostHawk]

I learned the hard way to, had one tine on my big 10 point buck that was missing half. So my hunting partner/old taxidermist buddy sat me down and showed me the way.

The filler is good for the top layers as it gives more for the epoxy to "grab" and it will sand/polish to very close to the correct color. I ended up using carving tools, some brown shoe polish to fix that broken tine. I've never seen anyone who could spot it from more than 3 feet. I can see it of course.

Hoping to see pictures soon.

[knifemaker]

I would use the acra-glas epoxy over super glue. It provides a stronger joint then super glue. gun grips have more torque applied to them during firing while having a firm hand grip that can break open the super glue joint. As said above I would use a dremel tool to route a channel along the crack line on the backside of the grips. About 1/8 deep and fill with the epoxy. Let the acra glas dry for 48 hours and sand the backside flat for a good fit on the frame.

[bluelund79]

I learned the hard way to, had one tine on my big 10 point buck that was missing half. So my hunting partner/old taxidermist buddy sat me down and showed me the way.

The filler is good for the top layers as it gives more for the epoxy to "grab" and it will sand/polish to very close to the correct color. I ended up using carving tools, some brown shoe polish to fix that broken tine. I've never seen anyone who could spot it from more than 3 feet. I can see it of course.

Hoping to see pictures soon.

As soon as I return home from a work trip. I have a somewhat local gun shop about 40 minutes away that has acraglass, and I'm sure somewhere around has epoxy.

[huntrick64]

I'm with DougGuy; Superglue it! Use a good brand and use the thin viscosity so it can soak into the crack. I build osage selfbows and use a bunch of this stuff to stop cracks in their tracks. I'm talking about cracks that have constant pressure on them too, not just setting idle like on a set of grips. I usually heat the wood (or antler in your case) with a hair dryer for a minute so that it pulls the thin glue into the crack once you apply it. Don't hit the glue with the hair dryer once you apply it because it will dry it too fast to soak into the crack. Once you apply the thin glue, you will start to see that the crack actually goes further than you originally thought. I apply glue well above the end of the crack just for insurance. Once this cures, you can do other things cosmetically to hide the crack and clean up the glue if you want.

[bluelund79]

Trying Superglue......

[bluelund79]

The crack was more pronounced than I remember, and goes all the way through the grip, both above and below the bottom bushing on the grip (Rh side of pic). I hope this works, these are my favorite set, and I've got some nice wood ones that a friend of mine made, but these just "feel" perfect. I'll order some challis bushings, screws and o rings once my items in the classifieds get sold.

[Bazoo]

I dont have any experience with elk. That said, i've repaired grips of wood using JB weld. On the back, I'd take a pocket knife or a dremel and v groove around the crack, and use some jb weld to stabilize it. Then use the super glue on the front and polish the extra off.

[DougGuy]

Trying Superglue......

This is not very good superlgue to use on these. You need the thin stuff that wicks in and penetrates fully and maybe even some accelerator to cure it once set.

If you want to send them this way I will fix the crack, provided you haven't already glued it shut where the thin glue won't find the crack.

[bluelund79]

This is not very good superlgue to use on these. You need the thin stuff that wicks in and penetrates fully and maybe even some accelerator to cure it once set.

If you want to send them this way I will fix the crack, provided you haven't already glued it shut where the thin glue won't find the crack.

Oops....already used. I put pressure on the grips to spread it, and ensured penetration. Live and learn. Used what I had on hand. I'll see if it works after a day or two of curing. Thanks for the offer though. As soon as I get my bore slugged on my 69 and 686+, those two cylinders will be headed your way. I've got quite of few revolvers to get done.....

[huntrick64]

Sorry Bluelund, we weren't very helpful using the term "Superglue". That is kind of like using "Kleenex" to refer to facial tissue, other than "Kleenex" brand is actually a pretty good product, where "Superglue" is not IMO. What we meant to say was CA glue (Cyanoacrylate Adhesive), which Superglue is just one brand of many. I have had really good results with Hot Stuff brand as well as Tite-bond brand CAs. These companies sell a variety of viscosities for various uses. It has a shelf life though so don't buy it from someplace that doesn't turn over their product regularly and don't buy a large bottle unless you have a lot of stuff to glue quickly. Also be aware of the "gas off" that goes on during the glue curing. I have had some pretty nasty burns in my eye because I got the project too close to my eyes when applying the glue. The gas will also ruin certain finishes as well ( meaning, don't lay it on your wife's dining room table to dry.) My pain, your gain!

[Love Life]

You will be very pleased with the challis bushing system.

[DougGuy]

Sorry Bluelund, we weren't very helpful using the term "Superglue". That is kind of like using "Kleenex" to refer to facial tissue, other than "Kleenex" brand is actually a pretty good product, where "Superglue" is not IMO. What we meant to say was CA glue (Cyanoacrylate Adhesive), which Superglue is just one brand of many. I have had really good results with Hot Stuff brand as well as Tite-bond brand CAs. These companies sell a variety of viscosities for various uses. It has a shelf life though so don't buy it from someplace that doesn't turn over their product regularly and don't buy a large bottle unless you have a lot of stuff to glue quickly. Also be aware of the "gas off" that goes on during the glue curing. I have had some pretty nasty burns in my eye because I got the project too close to my eyes when applying the glue. The gas will also ruin certain finishes as well ( meaning, don't lay it on your wife's dining room table to dry.) My pain, your gain!

I have used Satellite City Hot Stuff brand CA glues for over 30yrs, they are the reference standard that all CA glues are judged against. I have done some amazing stuff with it! I keep 3 viscosities in my fridge at all times, I keep the accelerator on hand as well. I always take some hunting because a sharp skinning knife can bring your hunt to an end with just one slip, and superglue is very often the only thing in the field that can fix it. I have glued my fingers together repairing cuts and punctures from tools and knives so many times in 30yrs I lost count. No doctor bills, no stitches, no nerve damage, and very little scarring, very quick healing and recovery from some fairly severe cuts.

I glued whole guitars together with it, glued plastic to wood that after 30yrs shows no sign of movement, amazing stuff. I used it in refretting a maple Fender guitar neck by applying a superglue finish to the fretboard and polishing it out before installing the frets, it takes weeks out of waiting for lacquer to cure. Eric Clapton's own personal Fender Custom Shop Stratocasters that he uses on tour have the whole neck finished in superglue.

I also use it to seal and fill the grain in Moose antler grips that I make, and it takes a really good shine. Moose makes nice grip panels but if they get wet it raises the grain so they must be sealed against moisture and superglue does great for this.

Sure JB weld and 5min epoxy have their uses but NOTHING on the planet comes close to really good quality CA glue!