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Jkrem
07-03-2017, 07:37 PM
Anyone have any experience with replacing the springs in their old model Blackhawk with the Wolff three spring replacement set? I ordered a set on a whim, my revolver has many years on it, and as it is new to me I have no idea how many rounds have been through it. I'm assuming there isn't anything with the timing or other function I'm likely to screw up by disassembling the pistol.... any thought appreciated.

Drm50
07-03-2017, 08:17 PM
OM Ruger Blackhawks are easy to work on. The biggest problem for you will be to compress and
capture new mainspring on the strut. When you take out cock gun and put a paper clip wire thru
hole in strut, let hammer down and old spring is trapped. Carefully pull out wire with spring against a book or soft wood. Old spring will want to shoot off if you don't. Push new spring over
strut and capture with wire thru the hole. Reassembly, last step , cock hammer and pull out wire.
The other springs are easy to change out. You have to be careful not to kink the little coil spring
with detent for loading gate when replacing grip frame to main frame. It doesn't hurt to put a little
Lock tite on the 5 frame screws to keep them loosening from recoil.

contender1
07-03-2017, 10:51 PM
A neat "tool" for compressing the mainspring for replacement is a sturdy old fork. The tines of the fork can be used to compress things, while allowing the strut to go between tines. And I use an old piece of drill rod, or an old allen wrench as a capture pin. Paperclips can be too flimsy.

Boogieman
07-04-2017, 08:37 PM
When changing springs in any Ruger, O.M, Nm, or DA, I always round the edges of the mainspring strut & polish the sides . Also smooth the hole in the spring seat. This makes cocking the hammer feel smoother & speeds the lock time. The fork trick is the best I've ever heard to handle the man spring. used it while tuning my SP101 , it works

Bazoo
07-04-2017, 08:53 PM
When going to compress the new spring on the the strut, it helps if you have either a vice or a hole in a block of wood to put the round end of the strut in so it doesnt slide while you compress the spring. And it helps if you have a friend slide the pin in the hole. I have a paneling nail that that is the the right size I use for my blackhawk and moms single six.

oldhenry
07-06-2017, 11:38 AM
I also use a paneling nail.

I have no experience with the OM, but I think they have many common parts with the NM....if so:
While you have the grip frame removed, pull out the hand plunger & spring. The end of the plunger will be rounded (dome like). Polish that domed end as much as possible. I usually start with a piece of well used 600 or 800 grit & final polish with Autosol.....or even Brasso (if you have a buffer red or white rouge is even better).
Later should you do a more detailed disassembly, polish the rear surface of the hand where the plunger domed end makes contact. Small changes working together smooth things.
Henry

Char-Gar
07-06-2017, 12:16 PM
While changing the springs out on an OM Ruger is not very difficult and you have received many good tips on how to do it, I want to address your first question.

Ruger springs are very long lived. I have several OM Rugers that date back to the early 60 with their original springs and work as good as new. Obviously, I see no reason to change springs, just because. I would just tuck the new springs away in case a problem presents itself, which it likely won't.

The Colt SA used flat springs that did cause problems with use. Ruger did away with those and went with coiled "music wire" springs and did away with the spring issues as well. Since then Ruger springs have pretty well been everlasting.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Here is my 1969 Ruger OM Blackhawk. It went back to Ruger for a new cylinder, barrel and reblue. They converted it, but sent back the original parts and springs. I reinstalled the original internals and springs, added a SS grip frame and a steel ejector housing. While at it, I did a trigger job and installed a Belt Mountain cylinder pin. The grips are horn I got in a complex trade with Doc O'Meara. I fitted them so they look and feel like they grew out of the steel. This is one slick, fine shooting sixgun that is still running on the original set of springs. What we have here is sixgun perfection.

Oh yes, this was done in 1994. Ruger no longer rebarrels, recylinders these pistols nor send back the original parts.

Texas by God
07-06-2017, 10:45 PM
My OM is converted and I did not get the old parts when I bought it. Is there a specific kit of springs for these? The trigger pull could use help. Tips appreciated! I've polished &stoned but I want springs.
Best, Thomas.

Bazoo
07-06-2017, 11:01 PM
One problem area, at lease on the new models, is the plunger in the hammer. I've had several that locked up because the plunger got stuck at its inner most travel. That locks the gun up cause it wont allow the cylinder stop to release. I took the plunger out, and cleaned the crud out of the hole, and polished the hole best I could with a rolled piece of sandpaper, and then finally, a rolled patch covered with polishing compound, both turned in a dremel.

Char-Gar
07-06-2017, 11:21 PM
My OM is converted and I did not get the old parts when I bought it. Is there a specific kit of springs for these? The trigger pull could use help. Tips appreciated! I've polished &stoned but I want springs.
Best, Thomas.

It is possible to get a very good trigger pull on a NM Ruger. It is as simple as releasing one of the legs of the spring from the lug on the grip frame.

That said, the conversion parts installed in OM Rugers seem to be resistant to improvement. I have worked on several and even paid a good gunsmith to do it, without any good results. Perhaps there is a way, but I don't know what it it.

I WOULD NOT buy a converted OM Ruger and if I had one, I would trade it in on a NM Ruger. The converted OMs are an abomination.

Texas by God
07-07-2017, 02:26 PM
It is possible to get a very good trigger pull on a NM Ruger. It is as simple as releasing one of the legs of the spring from the lug on the grip frame.

That said, the conversion parts installed in OM Rugers seem to be resistant to














improvement. I have worked on several and even paid a good gunsmith to do it, without any good results. Perhaps there is a way, but I don't know what it it.

I WOULD NOT buy a converted OM Ruger and if I had one, I would trade it in on a NM Ruger. The converted OMs are an abomination.

This is a lesson I'm learning. To make it worse the cylinder throats aren't consistent ; it's the least accurate Blackhawk I've owned.
Thank you for sharing. I may carry it to the next gun show.