N.O.E. Problems...

[BCB]

Just got done casting about three hundred N.O.E. 311-202-RN…

This is the 4 casting session with this aluminum mold so there have been well over 1200 boolits that have fallen from its cavities…

The Problems:

1. Look at the pic. These lines appear at random from the first boolits dropped to the last boolits dropped. NO, THERE IS NO OIL IN THE CAVITIES. THEY HAVE BEEN CLEANED EVERY TIME, BEFORE AND AFTER EACH SESSION. SOLVENT AND DAWN DISHWATER SOAP. I’VE CASTED LOW TEMPERATURE AND HIGH TEMPERATURE & CONTINUALLY FLUX…

2. The front left side cavity perpetually sticks to the point where I must tap the hinge bolt on the handles a dozen or more times—very very annoying. I have lightly used steel wool to help remove whatever might be grabbing the lead. I smoke it regularly and I even use q-tip to rub a bit of powdered graphite on it. No Good…

Although this mold casts consistent boolits, it has had the above problems from day one. I do have another N.O.E. mold and I don’t have these problems…

What is interesting is that I have Lee aluminum molds from my 1st days of casting as they were inexpensive and in all honesty, I have never had the above mentioned problems with any of them…

Any suggestions?...

Still like the 311-202-RN in my 30-40 Krag—it’s been doing quite well…

Thanks…BCB

[LenH]

I have a NOE 311-198 SP mold and had the same problem. I found that the mold needs to be rocket hot and I run the melt up to 725°F. The bullets tend to be frosty
but are pretty much perfect. I tend to like 94-3-3 alloy for this round.

[OS OK]

How do you pre-heat your moulds ?

[Boolit_Head]

More heat, these are not the cheap lee molds. :)

[Shuz]

I suggest that you try spraying the hot mould with brake cleaner and then cast at 750 deg alloy temp. Once the mould gets up to the proper temp, your boolits should fill out properly.

[stubert]

That is not a mold problem, that is a temp. issue..

[BCB]

I suggest that you try spraying the hot mould with brake cleaner and then cast at 750 deg alloy temp. Once the mould gets up to the proper temp, your boolits should fill out properly.


Do you just spay that on the cavities and continue casting?...

Thanks...BCB

[BCB]

Off to my range--raining, but I have a roof over my shooting bench...

I worked out in the weather my entire life so shooting in it shouldn't be a problem either!!!

Thanks...BCB

[Boolit_Head]

You may also be casting a bit slow allowing the mold to cool. Either way get a bit more heat in the melt to get that mold a bit hotter and it will fill out. I've got a couple of brass molds that take quite a bit of heat due to the steel HP pins and brass. Once I get the temps right they cast beautifully though.

[Shuz]

Do you just spay that on the cavities and continue casting?...

Thanks...BCB

I just spray it on the open halves of the mould when it is hot, let the solvent dry a little and then start casting.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

long 30 cal boolits can be challenging.
You may have a venting problem, On many of my molds, I have used a fine file to 'break' the top edge of the mold to create a vent.

also pouring a large sprue puddle...see this thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?258255-cast-boolit-flaws-due-to-shrinkage-announcing-the-solution-(for-me-anyway)&highlight=

[Forrest r]

+1 ^^^^^^^^

Have a neo mold 301 212 paper patch mold. It was doing the same thing until the sprue plate dug gouges in the top of the mold. Then it started casting beautiful bullets.

[bluejay75]

That is one of two things... temp or lube being carried into the mold. I have experienced both. I only lube with the cavities full and pour a few time placing it on a hot plate in between pours until mold temp is right. Repeat it when mold cools too much.

[arlon]

Could some zinc contamination in the mix be doing that? Do other molds cast fine from the same pot of lead?

[TexasGrunt]

Did ya give the cavities a light smoke according the the directions from NOE?

[Taterhead]

With the heals looking a bit round, I too suspect that the mold is a bit cool.

[Harter66]

I cured that with a hot mould .
It's hard to break the set up and flow but the long bullets and little bitty short ones almost demand that the first 2-3 pours are frosty and slow cooling . Then keep after it as fast as you can cut the sprue the way you want them .
I rest the very long and very short under 35 cal on the pot rim to pour and cool . I have a couple that have to reheat to keep them running .

[BCB]

A person contacted me and thought some more info might help so here goes. I answered the questions he mentioned. My answers are in red (maybe)...

1. alloy temp?
700-800±

2. how are you preheating the mold?
Preheated as mentioned earlier

3. how fast are you casting? Inspecting as you cast? NONONONO.
Fast enough to allow the sprue to be cut without smearing lead—don’t look at them until the end

4. Every one of those bullets you show in the photo have rounded edges and it also appears that the mold is not being held level as you fill. Bottom pour or Ladle?
The edges are rounded as those are the worst of the worse boolits I pictured. The vast majority are good and square. The checks are actually a bit difficult to put in place by fingers. Bottom pour

5. Did you aim for the center of the sprue hole, or splash off the edge of the sprue plate?
Maybe both. I can’t see under the spout very well—never worried about this with any other mold

6. How much drop did you allow? Casting outside in cool air robs heat from the melt before it even gets into the mold.
3/8th to ½ inch drop. Cast in warm garage

7. Did you try pressure filling the mold. What ever you are doing, you appear to be doing it consistently or there would have been an improvement. A bit more information would be helpful.
I’ve never had much luck with the pressure method. Lead all over the place

8. What do the bases look like? Torn sprue nubs or flush cut?
The bases on the ones not distorted are nice and square and cut smooth

From most of the posts, it appears the heat may be the major culprit. I will cast a bit hotter the next run. BUT, I am still confused as to why the left side of the front cavity refuses to release the boolit without much tapping on the handle hinge with my wooden dowel...


Thanks...BCB

[BK7saum]

It looks like a cold mold issue to me. I have had lead splash from pouring into the sprue hole solidify on the side of the mold cavity. Then the mold finishes filling up around the cool lead and leaves wrinkles and circles on the side of the bullet. The mold needs to really be hot to prevent this issue. I have had it happen with my Noe 311 - 247 whisper mold. The solution ended up being faster casting with a little bit hotter alloy. As you said these are the worst with rounded edges, they were definitely cast in a too cold mold. As your mold heated up you began to get better bullets with fewer wrinkles and spots, correct? I would also check the sprue plate to make sure that's not too snug and can vent a little bit at the top.

[BK7saum]

You need to fill the mold faster and/or hit the center of the sprue hole to avoid the splash as much as possible.

[BK7saum]

Long skinny bullets I usually end up casting at about 740 or 750 degrees. I preheat my mold on a Hot Plate at a medium to medium-high heat until the sprue plate lube just starts to smoke. Then I usually start getting good bullets with the first or first few casts

[BK7saum]

Sometimes it takes getting the mold hot enough that the sprue does not freeze for at least five to six seconds

[Dusty Bannister]

When using a bottom pour pot, make sure the flow of alloy is free and a straight stream. May help things if you place a catch pan under the nozzle and probe gently with a bent paper clip as you let the alloy flow. And if you have the valve set to flow slow, open it up for a fast fill as others have mentioned. Is that 800 degrees per a pid, or with the thermometer resting in the pot, contacting the bottom or side of the pot. If it is closer than about a half inch to the sides or bottom, it is reading the pot not the melt. Stick with it. Even if you have to change the position of the pot so you can see what you are doing, give that some consideration. Dusty

[webfoot10]

Be careful spraying a hot mold with brake cleaner. The fumes could cause you problems and
could cause lung problems.

[Larry Gibson]

You need to fill the mold faster and/or hit the center of the sprue hole to avoid the splash as much as possible.

This what I suspect also. Open the spout adjustment to get the alloy into the cavity as quick as possible. You want the alloy to sort of boil back out of the sprue hole forming a large sprue. Fill each hole separately, do not move to the next too quickly. If the sprue alloy runs off the side thats ok.

Larry Gibson

[MT Chambers]

Another good thing to keep the mold hot is to make the biggest sprue puddle possible(without wasting time)!

[762sultan]

On question #5 you said you never were concerned with that on any other mold. Just think of a mold as a woman...they may look alike but they all have things they like and don't like. It is your job to find out what that is and make them perform the way to make you happy ... turn up the heat.

[OS OK]

1. alloy temp?
700-800±

WHAT'S THE ALLOY TEMP...are you using a thermometer or guessing?

You must manage the alloy temp. and manage the mould temp...period.

2. how are you preheating the mold?
Preheated as mentioned earlier . . .

I must have missed how you pre-heat the mould...how do you pre-heat the mould? To what temp. to start?

Long narrow boolits can be a problem if you assume too much.

[Smoke4320]

Boy I feel like I'm piling on so here goes
good straight fast fill of the mold, big sprue , Get mold very hot , Frostly bullets are just fine
I will bet once you see a few frosty the issue will disappear , if mold cools down problem will reappear

PS I have a 311247 (very long bullet) that has that same issue . frosty bullets and issue is totally gone

[BCB]

Reckon not casting at a high enough temperature may be most of the problem...

I have an RCBS thermometer. I stick it into the pot and stir. I figure that way I am getting good contact with the majority of the melt. I don't hang it over the side and let it there...

Thanks...BCB

[OS OK]

That's twice you have avoided a direct question involving specifics...what's the temp? (oh...plus or minus 100*, give or take.) and how do you pre-heat the mould? (no answer at all.)

Good luck bud! You waste everyones time...

[Jeff Michel]

Try using a ladle, I would suspect your creating a vortex in the cavity from a bottom pour pot. Slow down the stream if possible or tilt the mold slightly while filling. I've had the same problem with long/skinny projectiles. It seemed to work for me at any rate. Let us know what you find out.

[gpidaho]

I've had bullets with the random divots that your experiencing. For me it was an alloy problem. I add a little tin and that usually takes care of it. If not I just switch to a more forgiving mould and cast that pot full up. Gp

[guicksylver]

All of the above PLUS.. ..if one is having a problem with a NOE mold it's probably the owner...

I have the NOE 311299,312299,314299, 311284 and 311290

I put each through the washing with Dawn, three heat cycles and light smoking of the cavities prior to casting for the first time..I got perfect bullets from the get go doing this with the 14 or so NOE molds I have..

By the looks of your bullets I would say the alloy and mods are COLD...

My molds are drilled for probes and I use thermometers in my molds and alloy...the alloy wants to be 700-750 degrees and the molds want to be between 350 and 375 degrees...if both are up to temp then there should be NO round bands and /or bases...

What's the alloy.... those look like they were cast with straight lead...COWW +2% Tin /pewter should cast beautifully bullets..

[BCB]

That's twice you have avoided a direct question involving specifics...what's the temp? (oh...plus or minus 100*, give or take.) and how do you pre-heat the mould? (no answer at all.)

Good luck bud! You waste everyones time...

Didn’t mean to waste your time. But, there is some good information posted on this thread that might help other people too…

I thought I had mentioned that I heated the mold on the rim of the furnace as it was melting the alloy…

I am using a Lee furnace and the temperature does fluctuate some. I don’t look at the thermometer all the time. I try to adjust the temperature as I check it with the RCBS thermometer. I’ll admit that I don’t have “top of the line” furnaces and Lee certainly doesn’t seem to want to maintain a constant temperature. BUT, I use other molds and have not had such problems as I have described. It appears other brands of molds might not be so finicky, or maybe I have just been lucky?...

Oh by the way OS OK, my name isn’t bud…

Thanks to all who posted…BCB

[Intel6]

I have found with some of my NOE moulds that it takes a few casting sessions to get them going good. Not sure why but I have had it happen more than once where on the third session a switch flips and they start turning out great. Now if I have one that doesn't seem to be running right I don't get worked up and just set it aside and try again.

[oldblinddog]

Hmmm... I have had the same issues with every NOE mold I've had. Research here indicated that I wasn't running the mold hot enough (just like in this thread). I heat my mold on a hot plate and it heats just as long as the pot. I ladle pour. In order to make sure the mold is hot enough (I don't have a thermometer) I have dipped the sprue plate and/or a corner of the mold into the melt. The pot is on "10", whatever temp that is. The mold has been so hot that the sprue didn't harden for 25 seconds (I timed it) and no bullet has ever come out frosty, and they still come out with lines like the OP depicts. Not all, but a large portion of them. Someone, in another thread, said it was me and not the mold, and I agree. However, I have tried everything that I can find that has been suggested here and in other threads that I can do and I still have the same experience as the OP.

I have two NOE molds left, the 311331 218 gr, and the 311332 190 gr.

[gwpercle]

You may also want to try Liquid Wrench Dry Lube , apply with a Q-Tip to the cold cavities , pre heat the mould ( I just set blocks on top of pot while it heats) and set your pot at 750 degrees to start , when they start coming frosty back the temp. down to 725. I usually do not need to apply any more LW Dry Lube, but if I do a quick coat with a Q-Tip dipped in it is all it takes.
The stuff acts as a super mould release and will not contaminate the cavities.
I also use it coat the block top and underside of the sprue , a thin coat with a Q-Tip is all it takes.
It comes in a spray can but you waste a lot spraying.... a small bottle and Q-Tip go much farther.
The large aluminum blocks of the NOE's require a bit different technique than the small Lee blocks do, took me a couple sessions to get the need for more heat understood.
Gary

[BCB]

I have found with some of my NOE moulds that it takes a few casting sessions to get them going good. Not sure why but I have had it happen more than once where on the third session a switch flips and they start turning out great. Now if I have one that doesn't seem to be running right I don't get worked up and just set it aside and try again.

I agree with “walk away” sometimes. I did that the other day when I was trying to put a mic adjustment screw in a large drum on a Uniflow. Came back ½ hour later and all went well…

But, I guess I am a bit frustrated as I have an N.O.E. 279-124-FP mold and it has worked perfectly from day one. It cast boolits that are picture-perfect and it has made a Contender carbine in 6.8mmSPC shoot amazingly well…

I figured this N.O.E. mold would be as easy to use as the other. I am doing everything the same as I always do when I cast, no matter what mold…

This particular N.O.E. 311-202-RN is a bit on the disappointing side—YET, it does cast good boolits when it gets going, but there are the unpredictable bad ones for seemingly no reason at all…

Still it is acceptable I suppose as they do shoot well. Maybe I am being a bit too fussy?...

Thanks all…BCB

[BCB]

Hmmm... I have had the same issues with every NOE mold I've had. Research here indicated that I wasn't running the mold hot enough (just like in this thread). I heat my mold on a hot plate and it heats just as long as the pot. I ladle pour. In order to make sure the mold is hot enough (I don't have a thermometer) I have dipped the sprue plate and/or a corner of the mold into the melt. The pot is on "10", whatever temp that is. The mold has been so hot that the sprue didn't harden for 25 seconds (I timed it) and no bullet has ever come out frosty, and they still come out with lines like the OP depicts. Not all, but a large portion of them. Someone, in another thread, said it was me and not the mold, and I agree. However, I have tried everything that I can find that has been suggested here and in other threads that I can do and I still have the same experience as the OP.

I have two NOE molds left, the 311331 218 gr, and the 311332 190 gr.


Phweeeee, I thought I was the only one having this problem!!!

Misery likes company!!!

Guess we'll just keep trying...

Good-luck...BCB

[BCB]

I will definitely try the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube...

Might be the miracle cure...

Thanks...BCB

[gpidaho]

Guys, Please note that in the instruction sheet Al N. warns "Running aluminum moulds hotter than necessary shortens their life substantially and can loosen the alignment pins" I'm a NOE moulds thousand dollar club member and by following the brake in instructions I've never had a problem , not one, with a NOE mould. Gp

[oldblinddog]

The frustrating thing for me is that mine are intermixed all through the casting session. There is no rime or reason to it. I have found that if I let the mold rest for about 20 seconds after the sprue hardens, the sticking bullets will generally fall out instead. Too soon and they stick. Also, at the temp this is running, I don't get much of a sprue. The lead (Rotometals Hardball) just sheets right off.

I have done the proper break-in on every NOE mold I've ever had.

[gpidaho]

oldblinddog; Hardball is an unforgiving alloy for small diameter, long bullets. Best used for short, fat pistol rounds. My post a few back. Add a little tin. You'll get them to work guys. You just have to find the alloy-temp. that the mould likes. Good luck and good shooting. Gp

[oldblinddog]

I will take that under consideration. However, it works just fine in all of my iron molds. For example, Lyman 314299.

[TexasGrunt]

There's a big difference between iron and aluminum molds.

[Bodean98]

I re-learned this lesson last weekend casting some NOE 311 247's. I was using 50/50+tin alloy and running the pot @750*. I use a LEE 20# pot.
The mold has to be hot enough. Unfortunately I don't use a thermometer on the mold but my mold oven/hotplate is set at 500*. Pot and plate are both PID controlled and are very consistent.
What I re-learned was the need to hit the sprue in the center of the hole and with a correct stream of alloy to get proper fillout. The stream needs to fill the cavity as fast as possible without splashing when the alloy gets to the sprue. You also need to adjust the flow as the level in the pot changes. I even tested this and was able to produce boolits such as your pics at will by glancing the lead flow into the cavity off of the side of the sprue hole. That was with the mold and alloy at proper temps.
I cast and PC'd about 40#(1100 +/-) of these boolets last weekend. I also cast about 40# of Accurate 45 200M in an aluminum mold. I tried the same experiment with that mold and had the same results.
The spout on the LEE pot is quite far back and under the pot and is difficult to see to get a good shot at the sprue hole. I have to elevate my pot up to where I can see it well or my casts suffer.
I have 3 NOE molds and love them all. They are all aluminum and they all have different likes. One thing consistent with all of them is the need to hit the sprue hole in the center.
Hope this helps.

[BCB]

All of the above PLUS.. ..if one is having a problem with a NOE mold it's probably the owner...

I have the NOE 311299,312299,314299, 311284 and 311290

I put each through the washing with Dawn, three heat cycles and light smoking of the cavities prior to casting for the first time..I got perfect bullets from the get go doing this with the 14 or so NOE molds I have..

By the looks of your bullets I would say the alloy and mods are COLD...

My molds are drilled for probes and I use thermometers in my molds and alloy...the alloy wants to be 700-750 degrees and the molds want to be between 350 and 375 degrees...if both are up to temp then there should be NO round bands and /or bases...

What's the alloy.... those look like they were cast with straight lead...COWW +2% Tin /pewter should cast beautifully bullets..

I use old wheel weights. I do add pewter to the melt. My days of calculating molar concentrations are long gone and mostly left in the college lab classes of many years gone by! The alloy I use is pretty much the same (I know this ± thing got me "yelled at", but this alloy has worked for all the molds I use--only about 15, but still O.K.)...

I did break-in the mold and I do smoke it. And, I try to run my alloy somewhere in the 700-750±, but it is difficult with the Lee furnace. It sometimes gets hotter...

Thanks...BCB

[BCB]

Guess I got a few tips to try the next run…

Run a bit hotter…
Try to pour into the center of the sprue hole…
Add a bit of tin, although I do add some pewter…
Get some Liquid Wrench Dry Lube…

Maybe just some more patients. Most of the boolits in my last casting session were pretty good—no blemishes on the side. But the few that didn’t pass the test, annoyed me, maybe more than they should? The majority that did pass the test had pretty square edges and the checks snapped on tight—actually it took a bit of force to push some of them on...

Moving forward…

Thanks…BCB

[Smoke4320]

BCB yes sometimes a mold will make you want to pull your hair out till you get it figured out
Keep at it .. you will find the solution .. many here have given great tips . its just takes time and effort to find out which is the key for this mold

good luck

[dragon813gt]

I will definitely try the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube...

Might be the miracle cure...

Thanks...BCB

I'd be very careful w/ it. It contains PTFE. Which will start releasing fumes at 572 F. Look up "teflon flu" for why you don't want to inhale the fumes. Yes, I know it's only a tiny amount. But I'm personally exposed to chemicals at work and don't want to add any w/ this hobby.

[mozeppa]

i'm surprised no one has said "add just a little tin" to the alloy.

[bullseye67]

Good morning,
I read through all of the posts on this issue. There seems to be a lot of the same advice being repeated.
I will add my 2 cents....remember all advice is worth what you pay for it:grin:
1) Mold temperatures are very important with different molds.
2) Rifle boolits, the longer and skinnier especially, the higher the percentage of rejected boolits. Both in appearance and weight variance.
3) Pour technique is very important. Distance, stream size, distance from Mold to spigot and where the stream enters the spruce/Mold hole.
4) The more cavities in a long skinny Mold, the harder it is to get "perfect" boolits.
All that said, I keep a book with a page dedicated to each Mold. Some molds have several pages of notes, as I change alloys and maybe I "discover" another way to get better boolits.
My notes consist of,
1) The Mold and when I got it, new or used.
2) A measurement of boolits for each cavity. I keep 10 boolits separate from each cavity. They are weighed and measured and I record the average for that alloy and cavity.
3) How did I get those results and any other information about the Mold.
This might not "solve" your problems today, but in the future when a Mold you haven't used for a while won't produce good boolits, it will be invaluable!
Have an awesome weekend :drinks:

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I re-learned this lesson last weekend casting some NOE 311 247's. I was using 50/50+tin alloy and running the pot @750*. I use a LEE 20# pot.
The mold has to be hot enough. Unfortunately I don't use a thermometer on the mold but my mold oven/hotplate is set at 500*. Pot and plate are both PID controlled and are very consistent.
What I re-learned was the need to hit the sprue in the center of the hole and with a correct stream of alloy to get proper fillout. The stream needs to fill the cavity as fast as possible without splashing when the alloy gets to the sprue. You also need to adjust the flow as the level in the pot changes. I even tested this and was able to produce boolits such as your pics at will by glancing the lead flow into the cavity off of the side of the sprue hole. That was with the mold and alloy at proper temps.
I cast and PC'd about 40#(1100 +/-) of these boolets last weekend. I also cast about 40# of Accurate 45 200M in an aluminum mold. I tried the same experiment with that mold and had the same results.
The spout on the LEE pot is quite far back and under the pot and is difficult to see to get a good shot at the sprue hole. I have to elevate my pot up to where I can see it well or my casts suffer.
I have 3 NOE molds and love them all. They are all aluminum and they all have different likes. One thing consistent with all of them is the need to hit the sprue hole in the center.
Hope this helps.
You have added many good suggestions...but the one I highlighted in red is one that hasn't been mentioned yet. It's surely true with Lee pots, and I'd expect it to be true with other brands as well, as head pressure changes due to mass/gravity.

When I am casting with a troublesome rifle mold, I will find what level of alloy will allow for best casting with the spout adjusted close to wide open, then I try to maintain that level in the pot, by casting a couple pounds of boolits, then add a couple ingots, and repeat.

[mozeppa]

i have a bottom pour magma pot...it holds 90 pounds of ready to pour alloy.

when i fill it i usually stop at the 60 pound level...when its down by 10 pounds , i add a 10 pound ingot.

my point is that my "flow pressure" stays pretty much constant....this pot was bought by plan just for that variable.

[waco]

i have a bottom pour magma pot...it holds 90 pounds of ready to pour alloy.

when i fill it i usually stop at the 60 pound level...when its down by 10 pounds , i add a 10 pound ingot.

my point is that my "flow pressure" stays pretty much constant....this pot was bought by plan just for that variable.

I've had Fill out issues in the past when the pot gets low. Not enough flow. Some molds like the lead shot into the cavities faster than others.
Play around with the rate of flow on your pot and see if that helps. Just my 2 Cents.....
Waco

[BCB]

Got up the courage to cast a few more of the N.O.E. 311-202-RN this morning…

As mentioned previously, I did thoroughly clean the mold, I do preheat the mold, I do smoke the cavities, cast in the 750°± as the Lee is not perfect (started at nearly 1000°this time), and this mold is broken in as it has cast at least 900 boolits with today putting it over the 1000 boolit number—that seems ridiculous to me as I have never had to cast that many boolits in any mold I have in order to get them to cast with minimal blemishes…

Regardless, I did one other thing. Previously I had taken a bit of steel wool and put it on a dowel that was inserted into the drill press. I lightly buffed the inside of the cavities as I thought maybe a burr not allowing the boolit to fall from the front cavity—didn’t solve the problem…

I had thought of being a bit more aggressive buffing, but I was afraid I might ruin the mold. I got a PM form a person on this site who wished to remain a bit silent on the forum as he figured he might get flamed for his advice. He suggested using a bore brush and turn it in the cavity…

Well, not much caring about this mold as it was absolutely a nuisance and a major P.I.T.A. to use, I figured “so what if I ruin the damn thing”. I have plenty of room in my crushed aluminums can bin and that mold would go in there nicely and be recycled…

So, I clamped a bronze phosphorus 30 caliber brush in my reversible drill. I dipped it into some butch’s just to put some liquid on the brush and I then cover the brush with J&B Bore cleaner. Put the drill on “wide open” and closed the front cavity around the brush. Gave it about 5 seconds and then I reversed the turn of the drill and gave it another 5 seconds. Cleaned it thoroughly again and start the casting process as described in the beginning of this post…

The boolits almost feel from the front cavity. Now the rear cavity will get the same treatment…

A couple of pics included. A close-up of part of the pile of boolits I cast—most look pretty good and are basically blemish-free. The other pic is of the last 11 pours I made. I kept the front cavity separate from the back cavity. Close examination with a magnifying glass shows no difference in the surface of the boolit. I measured them with a Starrett micrometer and the diameters are the same. I then sized a few and they all look the same and weigh the same…

There is NO DOUBT that this mold had burrs or something in the cavities that were causing the boolit drop problem. Why so many blemishes and lack of good fill-out previously, I don’t know. That could have been a mold that was too cold. But, I had heard horror tales of ruining aluminum molds with too much heat—this time I gave it the “hell’s fury” with the beginning heat—again I really didn’t care much about the mold…

So there it is so far. Sometimes being gentle and caring may not be the right way to go…

And so it goes…

Good-luck…BCB

[Dusty Bannister]

Yes, I clearly see the beginning of fins on the mold seam. How much larger is the nose casting now? Do the gas checks snap on, or do they seem too tight to apply easily?

[oger]

You need more heat. The mold needs to be over 400 deg for the long 30 cal. bullets and that is hard to keep unless you go as fast as you can and there is no wind and the outside temp is close to 90deg. I just broke in a .311 247 doing nothing but washing the mold and preheating it until it got close to 400 deg in a toaster oven.

[Boolit_Head]

My brass 30 Cal 5 cavity molds are a bugger to get hot enough. Even my large Noe 30 cal like a lot of heat. Most did stick a few till they got hot enough.

[OS OK]

I have a 323378 2C that the front cavity wanted to stick...no matter what. It's a little longer than this cast your using but looks basically the same.
Eventually I made a couple casts with the screw shanks screwed into them so I could spin them with a little drill-motor inside the mould. I put rubbing compound (for car paint) on the cast and spun them (about 1/3 speed, a couple hundred RPM) for less than a minute in each cavity.
I figured those little lube bands with the squarish recesses might be trying to hold the long boolit as it swings out of the cavity from the frontmost portion of the cast, acting like a lever and locking it in at the lube groves. I also started tapping the mould on the hinge-pin as I began to crack the mould open...I think it jostles the casts in cavity as they react to the tapping on the mould, 9 times out of 10 you can see the space all around them in the cavity indicating that they are popped loose.
That pretty much solved any release problems for this mould. I don't use mould release or smoke...just depend on having a squeaky clean mould, good Pb blend and the temps. working right together between the mould and casting material.

[BCB]

Yes, I clearly see the beginning of fins on the mold seam. How much larger is the nose casting now? Do the gas checks snap on, or do they seem too tight to apply easily?



The diameter of the bore rider part of the boolit remained at 0.301". As far as how much the boolit increased in length--I have no idea. It would certainly have to be minuscule I would think. My duties for this boolits don't require length within ±0.0001”…

The checks do go on a bit difficult on some of the boolits, no matter what cavity they fall from. This happened before I buffed the front cavity. I have never had a mold that didn’t throw a few that had a slightly larger gascheck base from time to time…

I am sure they will perform as the other ones previously did. Groundhog-sized silhouette at 300 yards is not a problem. Hits are within the chest area. An Encore with a 30-40 Karg barrel...

My problem was always the extreme effort to get the front cavity boolit to drop...

From the pic, the checks attach squarely. I push them through a Lee 0.311" sizer first and then apply the lube with the LAM 2. I don't like to use the LAM 2 for long boolits. I think there is always a chance of "bending" the boolit pushing from the top first--just my opinion...

Good-luck...BCB

[BCB]

Just finished pre-sizing, if that is what it is called, 50 or 60 of the boolits I cast yesterday. I pre-size using a Lee push through in 0.311” diameter…

The checks went on fairly well with the occasional one a bit ornery. A quick swipe across a sheet of 200 sandpaper took the edge off of the check base and put a bit of a bevel—snap it went on…

I do like the Lee push through as it seems to set a check squarely even if it is not fully snapped in place. A couple of light taps with the rod that pushes the boolit through the sizing die must put the check on squarely and then pushing it the remaining way through sets it completely. Then it is off the LAM 2 for the lube to be applied…

By buffing (?) the front cavity with a bronze brush and J&B Bore cleaner, the boolits are now dropping out with no tap on the handle hinge bolt or a very minimal tap. The rear cavity will get the same buffing…

I know there are some on here who absolutely say it is sacrilege to do such destructing gestures on an aluminum mold—all well and good. I did it and it did no wrong and the mold now functions as it should…

There are some who will admit they do this buffing also. I got several PM’s from casters who indicted there method of smoothing a mold cavity and also referred me to other websites where it was also discussed…

Regardless of what some say, the N.O.E. mold is not “Gawd’s gift to mankind”—period. Although I must admit that a sample of 2 is not representative. I have 2 N.O.E. molds and the 279-124-FP has performed remarkably and it was designed, as I understand it, for the 6.8mm SPC. I shoot it from a 23 T/C carbine in that cartridge and it does perform very well—not a problem with it at all. But then there is this 311-202-RN and it has been a bear to the point that I had little or no concern if I ruined it or not. Casting for an hour and getting a hundred boolits or so is not my idea of a productive use of time, even if it is a hobby. Now it’s a bit better since I gave up on the “kinder and gentler approach” and “ruined” the front cavity and I am about to ruin the back cavity. This mold will now cast as it was intended to do, that is what I now think...

Thanks to all who posted and thanks to those who sent me PM’s with advice that might have caused a flame on this thread should it have been posted for all to see. The advice and links they provided were good and in agreement with my philosophy…

I’m not a Master Caster as I have only been doing it for a dozen or so years—reloading for a few over 45 years. We all have to make our decisions on what we read. One can generally determine those who post good hard facts from experience and those who use the “Polly Parrot” method of posting. Eventually if something is parroted enough times, it becomes a rule carved in stone—A classic example of this is “I would not use that powder to reload with, I would use it for fertilizer”. Yep, good to error on the safety side, but I have never never fertilized anything with smokeless powder, nor will I ever in the future. Prudent thoughts, research, and experience will allow one to carefully use “fertilizer powder”. Let Polly Parrot continue to post—May he have the best boolits in the World and the greenest grass from great nutrients…

(Using IMR-7383 as the powder of choice for my 6.8mm SPC and the 279-124-FP is an example of research, thought, and QL program--try to find data for that powder and the 6.8mm SPC)

Good-luck…BCB

[Harter66]

Eventually if something is parroted enough times, it becomes a rule carved in stone—A classic example of this is “I would not use that powder to reload with, I would use it for fertilizer”. Yep, good to error on the safety side, but I have never never fertilized anything with smokeless powder, nor will I ever in the future. Prudent thoughts, research, and experience will allow one to carefully use “fertilizer powder”. Let Polly Parrot continue to post—May he have the best boolits in the World and the greenest grass from great nutrients…

I have resigned myself to knowing that the greenest grass is found over the leach field , with it's according enhancements .