Reline or rebarrel

[Sasquatch-1]

I have an old Euroarms Kentuckian that was given to me by an uncle. This is a rock lock and at 50 yds I am lucky to hit the 2x2 foot backer. I am wondering if I should try relining the barrel or replace it. If I were to replace it I would probably look into replacing the lock also. Large difference in cost. Just wondering if it is worth it. Wood and furniture is in good shape.


197898

[Good Cheer]

Just a thought thrown out there, I had a barrel relined because while wanting to change the type of shooting the piece was capable of I wanted also to preserve the exterior of the existing barrel along with the sights set up. Otherwise it would have been a replacement. And the liner was made to my specs so it wasn't cheaper, but I wanted it my way.
[smilie=w:

[Good Cheer]

Oh, one more thought...
Is the bore eat up like with corrosion? If so then reboring to just get it to clean up might work. Like a .45 turns into a .47 or .48. A .50 become a .52 or .53. That's often the most inexpensive way to go.

[NSB]

I have an old Euroarms Kentuckian that was given to me by an uncle. This is a rock lock and at 50 yds I am lucky to hit the 2x2 foot backer. I am wondering if I should try relining the barrel or replace it. If I were to replace it I would probably look into replacing the lock also. Large difference in cost. Just wondering if it is worth it. Wood and furniture is in good shape.
.


197898
Not trying to be offending, but you don't say how much experience you have with muzzle loaders, especially flint locks. If you aren't experienced, you may not need a barrel at all. These guns can be quite inaccurate if they aren't loaded with the correct ball and patch size for the bore. They can also be inaccurate for someone who isn't used to the delayed ignition of a flint lock rifle. Is there some reason you believe it's the barrel contributing to the inaccuracy? I've seen some pretty rough bores shoot amazingly well in spite of how they looked.

[Sasquatch-1]

I will agree that part of it is me. But I have a TC Hawken flint that when I do my job it will put the balls on paper touching at 50 and I have a 54 cal Traditions Hawken cap lock that will consistently make 3 leaf clovers at 50 yds.

This gun was originally taken in by an antiques dealer in some kind of deal and passed on to my uncle who put it in a closet where it sat for close to 40 years. When I finally got it and tried cleaning it, the bore shredded patches.



Not trying to be offending, but you don't say how much experience you have with muzzle loaders, especially flint locks. If you aren't experienced, you may not need a barrel at all. These guns can be quite inaccurate if they aren't loaded with the correct ball and patch size for the bore. They can also be inaccurate for someone who isn't used to the delayed ignition of a flint lock rifle. Is there some reason you believe it's the barrel contributing to the inaccuracy? I've seen some pretty rough bores shoot amazingly well in spite of how they looked.

[bob208]

what cal.is it now? if a .45 it could be scraped out to take a .451 ball. if a .36 it would make a good .38. then I would go with the reline route. bob hoyt in Fairfield pa. would be the guy to talk to.

[bedbugbilly]

I would be looking at the possibility of having it "re-bored" if the barrel is of sufficient weight to have enough wall thickness. A lot of "ifs" but a call to Hoyt or Whitacre won't cost you much to see if they could do it or recommend someone. I also wouldn't be afraid to go with an "odd" caliber (already mentioned) such as from a .450 to a .470, etc. as you'll likely be able to find a RB mold that will work - if not - there is a fellow in England that makes custom RB molds - can't remember the info but someone on here will know it.

[NSB]

Just something to keep in mind here: in unfired condition these guns are only getting around three-fifty to five hundred dollars. They really aren't worth getting rebored. Maybe finding another barrel might be an option, but I wouldn't put much money into a gun that is probably worth a hundred bucks in its present condition. Just something to think about, these weren't high end guns by any means.

[pietro]

When I finally got it and tried cleaning it, the bore shredded patches.





A rough bore's at the root of your accuracy issue.

The least expensive repair is to use the EASY button - check for & de-burr the muzzle/crown.

If that doesn't work, you can lap the bore with automotive valve-grinding compound (available at any auto supply store) applied to a cast lead slug & run up/down the bore for as long as it takes.

IME, a replacement barrel would be 1) expensive, and 2) hard to find (to fit your rifle) - which leaves reboring to a larger caliber or boring it for a liner.

Your choices are defined by how much ($$$ or elbow grease) you want to put into a free-to-you rifle - at least, it'll make a very nice wallhanger if you don't think the repair would be cost effective.


.

[rfd]

refresh or rebore would be my initial choice of action. jeff tanner makes brass ball moulds in any diameter required.

[bob208]

some of the odd rebores are not that odd. the .36 to .38 would use the .375 round ball for the colt navy. the .46-.47 would use .451 to .457 ball for the colt or Remington army.

a rebore from hoyt would be about $120. way cheaper then a new rifle.

if you feel energetic you could fresh it out yourself. using cast slugs inlet with scrapers.

[labradigger1]

I have pull through rifling refreshers for muzzleloader barrels. What caliber and twist is it?

[725]

I'm just spitballin' here, 'cause I can't / don't actually see your bore or what you have to work with. Further, I don't know how much you want this rifle or how much you want to spend. That said, ............... Bob Hoyt does superior work and brings these baby's back to life, like bob208 indicated, for around $120 or so. Just had one (another one) done by Hoyt last week. The man is good. I'd speak to him, listen to his advice, and make your decision from there. Neat thing is you can pick the rate of twist to maximize the ability of the rifle for the chosen load. Most commercial rifles / barrels give a generic, one size fits all performance, and frankly, they do it pretty well. A custom goes that extra distance to perform. He does liners if you want to keep the original caliber or re-bores to pick a new one. Good luck.
Bob Hoyt - 717-642-6696

[KCSO]

Sorry to say it but you have a cheap gun with a cheap lock and poor sights. Before you rebarrel you need to have the barrel examined by an experienced b/p guy. You need to check out the lock and the touchhole placement. You really need decent sights. Then if all this is not the problem rebarreling will be the cheapest option. Had one of these in the late 60's and after I had it worked over it became a good if not exceptional shooter.

[mooman76]

A rough bore's at the root of your accuracy issue.

The least expensive repair is to use the EASY button - check for & de-burr the muzzle/crown.

If that doesn't work, you can lap the bore with automotive valve-grinding compound (available at any auto supply store) applied to a cast lead slug & run up/down the bore for as long as it takes.

IME, a replacement barrel would be 1) expensive, and 2) hard to find (to fit your rifle) - which leaves reboring to a larger caliber or boring it for a liner.

Your choices are defined by how much ($$$ or elbow grease) you want to put into a free-to-you rifle - at least, it'll make a very nice wallhanger if you don't think the repair would be cost effective.


.

I would try this first. More info would help us help you. Like stated you have a fairly inexpensive gun so it's going to either take allot of work to fix or allot of money or both. Smoothing it out would be your cheapest option or maybe try to get another barrel or bore out to the next higher caliber. What is up with the lock? I assume not sparking good? A good lock will cost, probably close to $200 or more. You could possibly do some things to make the lock better.

[stubshaft]

I'm just spitballin' here, 'cause I can't / don't actually see your bore or what you have to work with. Further, I don't know how much you want this rifle or how much you want to spend. That said, ............... Bob Hoyt does superior work and brings these baby's back to life, like bob208 indicated, for around $120 or so. Just had one (another one) done by Hoyt last week. The man is good. I'd speak to him, listen to his advice, and make your decision from there. Neat thing is you can pick the rate of twist to maximize the ability of the rifle for the chosen load. Most commercial rifles / barrels give a generic, one size fits all performance, and frankly, they do it pretty well. A custom goes that extra distance to perform. He does liners if you want to keep the original caliber or re-bores to pick a new one. Good luck.
Bob Hoyt - 717-642-6696

+1 for Bobby Hoyt. I just got a Musketoon barrel relined by him last week and on Monday will be sending up a Zouave barrel for him to do. If you tell him you want a .576" barrel that has a 1 in 48" twist, the by golly that is what he is going to make for you!