Linotype for 38 Special?

[Clovis]

I cast a number of 170 grain SWC in linotype for 357 loads. Is the same linotype projectile to hard for use in 38 special loads?

[243winxb]

No. As long as diameter and lube are correct.

I tested this with Rotometals linotype in 45 acp, firing 200 rounds. The barrel will look different after shooting, but cleans up easy.

You just have to shoot some to see.

[Clovis]

thank you

[JohnH]

Too hard. In reality, plain wheel weight is too hard, but it is much better suited to the task. Quality lube will go farther in preventing leading in 38 Special than will lead hardness. Leading in 38 special is caused by too hard lead or poor lube or a combination of both. And there is no substitute for bullet fit. As to lube, 50/50 alox/beeswax, Felix Lube (do a search here for the recipe) or 45/45/10 (Lee Liquid Alox cut down you can buy it here http://www.lsstuff.com/ ) Your boolits must fit the throat of your cylinders or be .001-.002 larger

[Char-Gar]

I cast a number of 170 grain SWC in linotype for 357 loads. Is the same linotype projectile to hard for use in 38 special loads?

Yes, it is too hard. Shoot them anyway and you will learn by experience. That is how I learned in 1962.

[Char-Gar]

No. As long as diameter and lube are correct.

I tested this with Rotometals linotype in 45 acp, firing 200 rounds. The barrel will look different after shooting, but cleans up easy.

You just have to shoot some to see.

Lessons learned from cast bullet shooting in 45 ACP autopistols won't transfer straight across the board to 38 Special revolvers.

[centershot]

As said above, fit is king! Lino was recommended for .38 wadcutters by E. H. Harrison of NRA fame in the NRA Cast Bullet Handbook. I, also, questioned that when I first read it, but, a friend's dad was producing wadcutters for the local LEA's (1960's) and he was using only linotype for his bullets. They were very accurate! He even sold them to the White House Police for a couple of years. Today we know that much softer alloys are perfectly suitable, as long as they fit the throats/bores.

[Clovis]

thank you

[williamwaco]

Oh my! It is Way too hard. It won't hurt anything but it is a terrible waste of a precious resource. Save your lino for a source of tin.

[Shiloh]

My 38 and 357 shoot fine with range scrap.
Sure, you can use lino, but totally unnecessary.

SHiloh

[USSR]

...a terrible waste of a precious resource. Save your lino...

Yep. Make an alloy consisting of 20% linotype, 80% pure lead, and add about 2% of some solder and you will be much better served.

Don

[lightman]

While your lino makes nice looking boolits, I agree that its way too hard. The above formula should work great, maybe even without the added tin.

[RogerDat]

Yeah that is one expensive alloy for a .38 special and the extra cost buys you nothing. At low end a recipe suggested to me here for HBWC in .38 that seems to work well is 3% tin 97% plain and that is pretty soft. I tend to use 50/50 COWW and plain with approx. 1 or 2 percent added tin for revolver. I will say those 50/50 with PC coating and sized are my best plinkers.

[PBaholic]

Way too hard.

Mix your Linotype with regular lead. 1# of lino and 2# of regular lead. This will give you an alloy around BHN 10

[tazman]

Your linotype boolits will not hurt anything. They are much harder than they need to be but if you have them made up, use them.
Sometimes you just have to use what is available.
As others have said, fit is king. If it is sized properly, it will work fine.