HELP: Bullet stuck in barrel

[BNE]

I was going to pound a bullet through an old mauser barrel to see how hard it would be to push through and then measure it. I had done it with soft lead and got .312".

My cast bullets were .315". I was hoping it would not need to be resized. Alloy is COWW +2% Sn. Powder coated.

It stopped fast as soon as it dug into the rifling. I turned the gun around and put my brass rod in from the front and tried to pound it out. No Luck.

I have it soaking in oil now.... But I am clueless as to how to remove it. Suggestions?

Would it be safe to shoot empty brass with primer only to push it out?

[oldblinddog]

would it be safe to shoot empty brass with primer only to push it out?

No!!!

[HATCH]

How far from the end is it?
You can get a long wood screw and screw into it and try to pull it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bazoo]

If you hit it hard enough, it will move. Just make sure you dont hit the gun when it breaks loose.

[mac1911]

If you hit it hard enough, it will move. Just make sure you dont hit the gun when it breaks loose.

This....I got one jammed myself. My problem was not have a secure enough vice to hold the rifle.
Local machine shop had the solution.
They had every conceivable way to hold a round object with out damage. Then used hard plastic rod... i would swear this stuff was metal. Also had every way to "drill" out that bullet if needed.
Sadly we lost that great machine shop to TX. It's hard finding any machine shop to do small projects. Even harder to find a worthy gun smith.

[rototerrier]

Brass rod... hit it harder. It will come out.

[leebuilder]

Fill with oil and let it sit overnight. Now you need to find a material that is thin enough to act as a gasket between your rod and bore.
Then push/tap/brisk rap it out hydroliclly. Works every time.
Be well

[Teddy (punchie)]

Can be hard to do. Yep protect the barrel as leebuilder said. Use copper or brass sheeting wrap end of rod. Should move takes well over 2000 pounds to push it through the barrel. Be careful and relaxed take your time. 1/4 steel rod or 3/16 don't thing a clean rod would hold up too well.

[nicholst55]

Would it be safe to shoot empty brass with primer only to push it out?

NO!!! You'll bulge (or ring) the barrel if you try that.

[Toymaker]

I had one stick about 6 inches up the bore. Soaked the bore with Kroil overnight. I got a steel rod from the hardware store, the biggest diameter that would fit in the bore. Then I took the edge off one end with some emery paper, just enough so it wasn't sharp. Wrapped the rod in plastic electrical tape. Put some carpet on the workbench, put the rifle on the carpet, put my 220 pound brother on the rifle, put the rod up the muzzle being sure that it was sitting on the bullet, smacked the rod with my 16 oz hammer. When my brother said "Ouch" I put some more carpet between him and the rifle.

The rifle moved a bit so I lost efficiency but the bullet moved. I was a bit nervous so after hitting the rod I would pull it out and examine the tape to make sure it wasn't torn, etc. which would indicate it bouncing against the rifling. Everything was good. It took a dozen good whacks but the bullet moved every time and popped right out.

TIP - remove the bolt so it doesn't get hit when the bullet and rod come flying out. If you can't remove the bolt the stuff a cleaning or shop rag in the receiver to absorb the movement of the bullet and rod coming out.

[725]

Have done just as toymaker says. It's a pain but does work and protect the gun in the process.

[imashooter2]

If you hit it hard enough, it will move. Just make sure you dont hit the gun when it breaks loose.

Short blows with a heavy hammer are better than fast strikes with a lighter hammer.

[cast367]

I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
Fired , and the bullit was removed.

[swheeler]

I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
Fired , and the bullit was removed.

That sounds dangerous and I would expect at the least a bulged/ruined barrel, maybe lost fingers, eye or worse.

[BNE]

Thanks to all those who replied. It has soaked over night. It only has to move about an inch. The bolt comes out easily. I have electrical tape every 6 inches on the brass rod.

I'm standing it up but to the concrete floor and tapping the rod from the muzzle. I have a piece of carpet under the but of the gun. May replace that with wood.

Will let you know.

[curator]

imashootr2 has the right idea. Sharp hits with a light hammer will deform/obturate the bullet. Using a heavy hammer allows the hammer's inertia to move e bullet without causing it to expand in the bore.

[BNE]

No luck so far. Work is sending me out of town this week. I'm going to have to let it soak.

This is frustrating!

Thanks for all the replies. I have access to a machine shop. May have to see what can be done there.

Will keep you posted.

[koehn,jim]

I use one of these cordless nail drivers on the end of a brass rod. The brass rod is solid that I use for slugging barrels, the nail driver hits it with hundreds of hits a min and drives them right thru.

[HABCAN]

A 'knowledgeable friend' ruined/bulged a finest-kind 29" 7x57 Mauser bbl. for me doing just that with a steel rod and an impact wrench. My fault: primer, no powder in Pb load, and accepting his 'solution'.

[Larry Gibson]

I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
Fired , and the bullit was removed.

While it sounds dangerous it really isn't. Actually Hatcher recommends that method......just make sure it is only the bullet that is in the barrel.......it's not really that much different that shooting a breach seated bullet.

Larry Gibson

[Scharfschuetze]

it's not really that much different that shooting a breach seated bullet.

Think of the chamber and the length of the bore up to the stuck bullet as being the whole chamber in this case. Lots of room for pressure build up and gas expansion. Pressure build up isn't any more extreme than Larry's example of a breach seated bullet (or artillery projectile in a cannon) and given the expansion area or volume, probably much less. Try a cast bullet level load of Unique or similar powder and you'll find the bullet gone. I would lightly lube the bore in front of the bullet to ease its travel, but that really is optional.

And as most posters insinuate, don't try and shoot it out with another bullet. That's an obstruction and the cause of many a bulged and ruined barrel.

[Paper Puncher]

One word of caution if you try to shoot the projectile out. If the load does not push the projectile clear of the barrel you may now have a rather highly pressurized container. For example on a bolt action rifle as you raise the bolt it will rapidly accelerate to the rear possibly damaging any body parts (think thumb) that attempt to slow it down.

[country gent]

I have seen the demonstration of the Otis cleaning kits ( the cable pull thrus ) pushing stuck bullets out of barrels with the solid cupped end. These were jacketed bullets though. You slide it down and start tapping lightly and quickly and pretty soon the bullet is out. Takes a little longer than a rod and hammer but can be done. I have a couple brass rods with sliding hammers on them for this at the range. The cupped end helps keep from deforming the bullet a lot. A heavy rod and solid pushing blows from a heavier hammer with a solid set up holding the firearm usually does the trick a little penetrating oil and left to work helps sometimes also. In a few instances a long smaller drill and drilling a hole thru the bullet will relieve the force holding it also. Here a small hole leaving enough to still push solidly against is important. other wise you have a thin ring and no way to move it. Go slow and think things thru first have a plan and go with it. A 3/16" brass rod with a 3/32" ( .093 dia) soldered into it and wrapped with tape ill normally work with 22 cals. removing the center thru allows it bullet to collapse easier then slide out.

[John Boy]

... and here's a video how to remove the bullet in a handgun or a rifle using water ...
https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-avast-001&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=avast&p=how+to+remove+a+bullet+in+bore+with+oil#id=5&vid=ffadc3e9a87e799c67c7b66a047f9ae2&action=click

Old gunsmiths also used motor oil that has a higher viscosity

[swheeler]

I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
Fired , and the bullit was removed.



Sounds dangerous! Normal power load, hum what is the load density now that you have a "chamber" X 2 or 3 volume with a nice WAD of dacron to compress air and clobber that stuck projo, sounds like SEE waiting to happen. Hatcher tried it once and lived so must be fine! Not me or mine thank you.

[.36navy]

The water method worked for me.
I had a bullet stuck in a .45 colt. Filled the barrel up with water up to the stuck bullet then fired a case with 1 grains of unique powder with a card wad seated against the powder. worked like a charm.

[303Guy]

One word of caution if you try to shoot the projectile out. If the load does not push the projectile clear of the barrel you may now have a rather highly pressurized container. For example on a bolt action rifle as you raise the bolt it will rapidly accelerate to the rear possibly damaging any body parts (think thumb) that attempt to slow it down.

The pressure will lock the case body onto the chamber wall and the case head will separate. Don't ask me how I know. (Never did find that case head).

[alamogunr]

The one time I had to remove a stuck boolit, I used a 4 lb drilling hammer. No bounce. Use same to make a impact cast of the throat.

[rockrat]

I use a 1/4" brass welding rod and a blacksmith sledge if need be. I have just turned the rifle over and taped the rod to the muzzle with the end against the bullet (boolit) and using the weight of the gun about a foot off the floor (carpet covered concrete in the shop) and hit the end of the brass rod on the floor. One or the other works every time

[Soundguy]

witht he bullet only stuck 1" in.. I simply can't imagine it being this hard to remove.

[LAGS]

These are all very good examples as why I choose to do a Barrel Cast with Cerosafe , rather than trying to Slug the Bore.
If a Cerosafe casting ever gets stuck , you just warm the barrel with a heat gun and it pushes right out, or even pours right out

[swheeler]

This would be a good test for Larry to do for the forum though. Lets say take his favorite 06 equipped with a strain gauge, drive a 150 grain Hornady spire point 12 inches into the barrel and load a case with 49 grains of 4895 topped off with a wad of dacron to hold the powder in place, fire it and show the results here. I'm in!!:?:

[Wayne Smith]

Sounds dangerous! Normal power load, hum what is the load density now that you have a "chamber" X 2 or 3 volume with a nice WAD of dacron to compress air and clobber that stuck projo, sounds like SEE waiting to happen. Hatcher tried it once and lived so must be fine! Not me or mine thank you.

No, Hatcher reported that the Army did it this way routinely. A vastly different statement. And I would say that Hatcher reported it, tested it that it was safe, but would not 'recommend' it.

[Grmps]

I was trying mild loads in my 336 marlin 32 win spcl. to catch the bullets in cardboard. I shot 1, didn't see it hit so shot another:-(. ended up with 2 bullets stuck 1/2 way down the tube. I bought a hardend 1/4 steel rod from HD cleand it with acetone then wraped it with 2" blue painters tape. (I layed out the piece of tape sticky side up taping the ends to the table and rolled the steel rod onto the tape and wrapped 1 layer pressing the rod firmly against the table and trimming the end of the tape as I wrapped getting a tight smooth layer.) I repeated this until the tape wrapped rod barely fit the barrel (no chance for the rod to dig into the rifling). Next I cut the taped rod 1" longer than the barrel and used a 1/2 in rubber washer as a possibile buffer between hammer and barrel (I didn't need it once the bullets broke loose light taps moved them out). I used a small 4 # sledge hammer and gripped the protruding taped rod with a pair of padded vise grips to help keep it from flexing. You wount need this because you only have inches to go. Took a few hard wacks to get the bullets moving then they tapped easilly through the barrel. The barrel looked/shot perfect after completing this.
I had some lite loads of powder with me held in the case with wax to extricate possible stuck bullets but since I had gotten 2 [smilie=b: stuck I didn't feel comfortable trying to shoot it out.
If you are worrid about extracating the bullet, you can take it to a gunsmith who can used pressurized grease to force it out.

[bob208]

when thy are that close to the end. I use a dent puller. the slide hammer will pull it out. I have used a hydraulic press and pushed them put.

[RedJackson]

The primer method works well. You can even top it with a few grs of FFG.

[nekshot]

years ago I would keep slowing down a load till it stuck in barrel. I was wanting to see how much ooomph it took to move a boolit thru barrel and out at the correct end. In all my clearing the barrel episodes I never ever had a slight glimpse or thought to use some powder to blast it out!! I have done alot of creative things with a gun and trying things but using powder is not in my nuggin. Did any of you lift a bolt on a action that has a stuck bullet and it is well sealed in barrel? That bolt really pops back with force! I know what I am speaking of. I would use water and hydraulic pressure.

[arlon]

Someone got a bullet stuck in a .38 and used a steel rod to hammer it out. Rod slid off the front of the bullet and gouged the crud out of the bore. They sold the gun to to some idiot at a gun show. I cleaned up the divit and it still shoots but I keep it around as a reminder to NOT be that idiot that buys someone else's mistakes again.. I will not hammer on anything steel in a gun bore. Brass or nothing. I just get the brass rod closest to bore size for slugging barrels at Tractor Supply. I also lube the barrels with PTFE grease before I slug them.

[Soundguy]

Not exactly sure what that picture is of, or attempts to show, so I won't speculate.

Per the 'story'.. if a steel rod was able to slip off the bullet and into the bore, sounds like they were using something very slim like a cleaning rod, vs a rod just small enough to slip into the bbl.

[swheeler]

No, Hatcher reported that the Army did it this way routinely. A vastly different statement. And I would say that Hatcher reported it, tested it that it was safe, but would not 'recommend' it.

Not recommending it sounds like good advice!:goodpost:

[Scharfschuetze]

Years ago when working up squib loads for the kids and when I had free daily access to a virtually unused indoor range, I stuck a few bullets, both jacketed and cast in .223 and 308 barrels. This was in the course of thousands of squib rounds fired in the range, so it does happen.

A moderate cast bullet level charge will shoot the bullet right out. In fact, a heavy charge will work just fine if your backstop will withstand more powerful ammo. As I posted earlier, there is no radical increase in pressure and probably a reduction in pressure given the expanded volume of the chamber which now includes the portion of the bore from the chamber to the stuck bullet. It is, as Larry points out, a breach seated bullet and poses no more danger than that. To expedite the departure of the stuck bullet, clean and lightly lube the bore in front of the stuck projectile.

Remember that this isn't putting a bullet down the barrel against an obstruction or stuck bullet. That is frowned upon! :)

I just can't get behind pounding a rod down an expensive or unobtainable original barrel with a hammer.

[Soundguy]

If a brass rod down the bbl will damage the bbl, the guns not fit to shoot....

[swheeler]

If a brass rod down the bbl will damage the bbl, the guns not fit to shoot....

sounds right to me!

[308Jeff]

I think the opinions in this topic are about as far from a consensus as it can get.
:-P

[Soundguy]

If brass was hard on gun bbl metal, then copper jackets and bimetalic jackets and brass cases on chambers would be eating up guns DAILY.

[Scharfschuetze]

I think the opinions in this topic are about as far from a consensus as it can get.
:-P

Pound away guys :)

Having worn out several barrels and having made numerous barrels from steel dowls to finished-rifled tubes working for a gunsmith, I can tell you that barrel steel is pretty soft stuff. That's a good thing as it allows some elasticity in the metal to contain high pressures. A good barrel is well worth an inordinate level of care. Certainly brass is softer, but pounding on a rifle just makes me cringe.

[Soundguy]

Pound away guys :)

Having worn out several barrels and having made numerous barrels from steel dowls to finished-rifled tubes working for a gunsmith, I can tell you that barrel steel is pretty soft stuff. That's a good thing as it allows some elasticity in the metal to contain high pressures. A good barrel is well worth an inordinate level of care. Certainly brass is softer, but pounding on a rifle just makes me cringe.

If a brass rod is going to hurt a rifle bbl ( it should not even be making any forcefull contact anyway! ) then a brass case pounding away at the chamber at 20-30-40-50-60K PSI is going to hurt it.

Newsflash.. Many FMJ bullets have a jacket of copper. Brass is copper and zinc. Some bullets have bimetal jackets, That's mild steel and a plated gilding, perhaps a copper wash, usually in the 125 are of BHN. Some projectiles are monolithic solids. i have safari rifles that shoot straight brass projectiles. Brass is about 60 BHN. Copper is about 35 bhn.

If you use a correct diameter rod, and a chamfer on the end, there should be no way to 'gouge' your barrel rifeling. There should be NO WAY to 'SLIP' off the projectile. If you have a .45X bore, and use a .25" rod.. SURE.. so don't use a .25" rod.. use a correct size.

Using the wrong 'tool', then blaming the tool / technique on doing the damage really just shows that the person doing the work is a 'tool'.

[Soundguy]

Pound away guys :)

Having worn out several barrels and having made numerous barrels from steel dowls to finished-rifled tubes working for a gunsmith, I can tell you that barrel steel is pretty soft stuff. That's a good thing as it allows some elasticity in the metal to contain high pressures. A good barrel is well worth an inordinate level of care. Certainly brass is softer, but pounding on a rifle just makes me cringe.

If a brass rod is going to hurt a rifle bbl ( it should not even be making any forcefull contact anyway! ) then a brass case pounding away at the chamber at 20-30-40-50-60K PSI is going to hurt it.

Newsflash.. Many FMJ bullets have a jacket of copper. Brass is copper and zinc. Some bullets have bimetal jackets, That's mild steel and a plated gilding, perhaps a copper wash, usually in the 125 are of BHN. Some projectiles are monolithic solids. i have safari rifles that shoot straight brass projectiles. Brass is about 60 BHN. Copper is about 35 bhn.

If you use a correct diameter rod, and a chamfer on the end, there should be no way to 'gouge' your barrel rifeling. There should be NO WAY to 'SLIP' off the projectile. If you have a .45X bore, and use a .25" rod.. SURE.. so don't use a .25" rod.. use a correct size.

Using the wrong 'tool', then blaming the tool / technique on doing the damage really just shows that the person doing the work is a 'tool'.

[alamogunr]

"22 If you have a .45X bore, and use a .25" rod.. SURE.. so don't use a .25" rod.. use a correct size."


I use steel drill rod stock. It is ground and polished and available in just about any size you need. For the above example, I have a 7/16" drill rod. For a .30 cal. bore, use a 19/64" rod. Grind the end flat and slightly chamfer the edge.

[arlon]

Not exactly sure what that picture is of, or attempts to show, so I won't speculate.

Per the 'story'.. if a steel rod was able to slip off the bullet and into the bore, sounds like they were using something very slim like a cleaning rod, vs a rod just small enough to slip into the bbl.

That is an image down the bore of the mentioned .38 revolver. Those are gouges mentioned in the bore of revolver caused by using a steel rod (speculation). I suspect each hammer strike left a gouge. A brass rod sure did NOT do that. I've never heard of a brass rod damaging a steel bore. I'm sure someone out there is capable though. A proper fitting brass drift rod is pretty reliable in my way of thinking.

Also if you look at the pic, the image is looking up just past the forcing cone area of a S&W model 15 with a 4" barrel. So the the big blurry opening is the .38 bore. Looking at the radius of the gouges compared to the bore is pretty obvious that someone was using something WAY smaller than the bore.

Like I said, I like a brass rod close to bore size. If I'm knocking a slug down something like a 45-70 I just use an old empty brass pistol case that fits in the bore and use that as a "shoe" for the rod. No slipping.

[Soundguy]

That is an image down the bore of the mentioned .38 revolver. Those are gouges mentioned in the bore of revolver caused by using a steel rod (speculation). I suspect each hammer strike left a gouge. A brass rod sure did NOT do that. I've never heard of a brass rod damaging a steel bore. I'm sure someone out there is capable though. A proper fitting brass drift rod is pretty reliable in my way of thinking.

and they must have use a rod very, very, very much undersized to even make contact like that.

improper use of the wrong tool.

[arlon]

and they must have use a rod very, very, very much undersized to even make contact like that.

improper use of the wrong tool.

Exactly.

[Larry Gibson]

This would be a good test for Larry to do for the forum though. Lets say take his favorite 06 equipped with a strain gauge, drive a 150 grain Hornady spire point 12 inches into the barrel and load a case with 49 grains of 4895 topped off with a wad of dacron to hold the powder in place, fire it and show the results here. I'm in!!:?:

Sorry, but like Scharfschuetze, I don't really like pounding on my rifles. I have removed numerous stuck bullets (mostly cast) with rods but I drill a cone shape in the end of the rod to center it on the bullet tip. Most stuck jacketed bullets are the result of no powder or it did not ignite and the primer simply stuck the bullet in the throat. Most times just the weight of the rod with barrel vertical will tap the bullet back out.

Pounding a jacketed bullet 12" into the barrel is what I don't recommend and is something I am not inclined to do with any rifle of mine.

I also have used Hatcher's method numerous times but generally use a starting load of whatever powder is being used. As did Hatcher I also don't use anything to hold the powder in the case. This means the cartridge sans bullet must be loaded with the rifle in a vertical position and then lowered gently. This is not allowed on many ranges and is difficult to do with some actions, especially CF actions. I believe that is why Hatcher didn't recommend it.

Note this method applies to closed breach actions and is not usually a successful method with revolvers.

Larry Gibson

[Soundguy]

Exactly.

kinda like using a beld sander and a jack hammer to clean your bathroom mirror.. then complain about the damage to the mirror.

wrong tools, improper technique.. but it's not the users fault somehow...

[Soundguy]

Exactly.

kinda like using a beld sander and a jack hammer to clean your bathroom mirror.. then complain about the damage to the mirror.

wrong tools, improper technique.. but it's not the users fault somehow...

[swheeler]

Sorry, but like Scharfschuetze, I don't really like pounding on my rifles. I have removed numerous stuck bullets (mostly cast) with rods but I drill a cone shape in the end of the rod to center it on the bullet tip. Most stuck jacketed bullets are the result of no powder or it did not ignite and the primer simply stuck the bullet in the throat. Most times just the weight of the rod with barrel vertical will tap the bullet back out.

Pounding a jacketed bullet 12" into the barrel is what I don't recommend and is something I am not inclined to do with any rifle of mine.

I also have used Hatcher's method numerous times but generally use a starting load of whatever powder is being used. As did Hatcher I also don't use anything to hold the powder in the case. This means the cartridge sans bullet must be loaded with the rifle in a vertical position and then lowered gently. This is not allowed on many ranges and is difficult to do with some actions, especially CF actions. I believe that is why Hatcher didn't recommend it.

Note this method applies to closed breach actions and is not usually a successful method with revolvers.

Larry Gibson

"I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
Fired , and the bullit was removed."

This is the post I replied to, the 12" in the barrel was just an approximation of "halfway".:razz:

Edit: I don't like pounding on my rifles that's why I wanted you to do it to yours![smilie=l:

[elmacgyver0]

When I was a kid I floated a lead bullet in a bottle of mercury, in a few days the bullet dissolved.

[LAGS]

I have used Mercury to remove lead build up from barrels.
It will desolve a lead slug stuck in a barrel. but is also very corrosive to the steel if left for any period of time.
And it is Toxic.
Seems more toxic now than when I was a kid.
We would play with mercury in science classes in school in our hands.
Now they Evacuate a school if a Mercury Thermostat switch or Neon light gets broken.

[BNE]

ITS OUT!

I took two long sockets and added tape until they were a snug fit in the chamber. I then added tape to a 12 inch long drill bit. ~0.125" diameter
197758

I then drilled just enough to make sure it was centered or close to centered on the bullet.

This is what it looked like in the chamber:
197759

I drilled some of it out and then re-tapped on the brass rod. This is what came out! I put another bullet beside it for comparison.
197766

The bullet was swaging up and around the brass rod.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[Drm50]

My method is like BNE's. I have brass rods for bore size. They are center drilled with set screws
for pilot bits, just like a extension bit. Usually I don't have to resort to drill. If I do it's after some
Bubba used a under sized rod and beat on bullet until it "riveted" itself into bore. A under sized
steel rod can also gouge bore. Also a word on screw puller method: if you run a screw into a bullet
it will expand like a nail anchor. These screw pullers were designed to pull round balls that were
patched and work good for this purpose. I have had cases where guys pulled the threaded fitting
that accepts the screw off the rod, leaving screw and ramrod tip in bore. In ML you can get lucky
and work enough powder in barrel to shoot it out. I am firm believer in sharp whack with heavy
hammer on proper size brass bar, with barrel anchored. Do not stand gun on butt and pound on
bullet, stock will be damaged.

[WILCO]

Glad to know it's out. Bet you won't do it again.

[BNE]

Glad to know it's out. Bet you won't do it again.

Exactly. I'm keeping that slug as a reminder.

[shooter2]

Short blows with a heavy hammer are better than fast strikes with a lighter hammer.
I agree with this. A steel rod close to bore size would be best. JMHO.

[StratsMan]

I also have used Hatcher's method numerous times but generally use a starting load of whatever powder is being used. As did Hatcher I also don't use anything to hold the powder in the case. <snip> Note this method applies to closed breach actions and is not usually a successful method with revolvers.
Larry Gibson

I found that using a thin paper card to hold the powder in place was exactly what WAS needed to make this work with a revolver... Had a few squib loads (primer only, I expect) in a batch of 38's, so I put 2.5gr Bullseye in a primed case and a "card" from standard letter paper (20# stock) and it was easy to clear a squib. Having that vent in front of the cylinder kept the pressure down, too...

[country gent]

Another plus to a proper cup point on the rod is that it tends to pull lead up and create a thinning effect on the bullet. How it was explained to me by the Otis demonstrator when I questioned how they work with just light taps. This was a jacketed bullet but it also measrusred a couple .001 undersized when removed from the bore. You could see where the core had been pulled up thru the hollow point. The cup pointed rod has several plusses to it.

[Paul in Oregon]

LAGS mentioned the use of mercury to desolve the lead. I too have used it to clean the lead out of old barrels including whole bullets.To me this is the safest way to clear the bore. I picked up a big box of old mercury thermostats at a heating and cooling shop, they were glad to get rid of them.

[rintinglen]

When using mercury to dissolve a boolit, remove the action from the barrel and stand it in a clean bucket, so as to catch the liquid when it flows through. Don't leave it without a drip pan, or you are looking a Hazmat clean up. Keep the mercury in a sealed glass bottle in a well ventilated area when not in use. It can be re-used many times.

'

[Sur-shot]

Done this several times. Wrap a smooth steel rod (with two flat ends, edges broken) with electrical tape along its length, about every 6 inches or so, wrap until snug to the bore, the wrapped tape keeps the rod centered. Make very sure you have a wrap about 1/2 inch from the end to contact the bullet. Squirt Liquid Wrench (penetrating oil) in the bore, set in a corner upright and leave over night. You should need to push the rod down the bore if it is truly snug. Push it right up against the bullet. Drive the bullet the shortest distance out of the barrel with a heavy hammer blow. Use a wood block on the floor so the barrel can not move with the impact of the hammer. The bullet will come right out. If the bullet is half way, drive it in the direction it was moving to start with, the metal is already forged in that direction.

I use an issue cleaning rod for a 96 Swede and keep it around just for this purpose.
Ed

[747 captain]

Tap out with a brass or aluminum rod

[Grmps]

I ended up using the largest steel rod that would fit then rolling/wrapping it with blue tape to where it just fit in the barrel (no way to damage the barrel. I cut the rod 1 inch longer than the barrel, drilled and put a thick piece of rubber @ the end of the barrel to cushion any possible blow to the barrel. A couple taps with a 16 oz. was useless so I got a 5# short handle sledge. A couple taps -- boolit out and no damage done.
IF you are extremely concerned a gunsmith can remove it Hydraulicly with pressurized grease.

[john.k]

I also use mercury....But if the EPA finds out they may order your house demolished.....many years ago,i worked in a major hospital.The storemen used to tip the mercury out of every instrument,collect it for a year and sell it the guy who did the instrument repairs..... a storeman was admiring the big glass bottle of mercury and how much booze it would buy for the Christmas Party,when it shattered just from the weight in it.Probably 20lb or more.It went all over the floor of the hospital store,some was picked up,it separates into ever tinier balls,which is why its called quicksilver.No word ever reached the management,and most would still be there.Big joke on the EPA.One day Ill tell them.Be careful with mercury,and no glass bottles.

[44magLeo]

In the OP's first post he said he slugged the barrel with a pure lead slug and got .312. Then tried a hard led bullet with powder coat. Why would you try this? The pure lead bullet got you all the info you needed.
Leo

[Petander]

I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
Fired , and the bullit was removed.

A familiar situation with subsonic FMJ load development. But I don't shoot them out.

I never "pound" them either. FMJ:s continue their travel by simply dropping a proper size metal rod on the bullet a few times from 5" or so. The bullet gets loose and drops right through the barrel. Penetrating oil won't hurt. The rod weight is enough.

"Pounding" it gets it stuck hard by deforming it,especially "pounding' from the tip end. Let the rod dance a couple of times on the boolit base. It will "snap" off.

Just my FMJ experiences though. Never stuck a cast,not yet.

Ouch the whole thought of "pounding" hurts.