Star luber question???

[hotwheelz]

I finally got my star luber up and running this afternoon, wow this this great and very fast compared to the old lyman 450. The heater from Magma is great makes my old midway heater seem like a relic , it warmed up the lube fast IM used to having 20-30 before there is enough heat in the 450 to start lubing. The only issue Im having is there is just a small amount of lube on the nose of each bullet could this be to much pressure ?? I tried backing it down but only had about 10 bullets left. Or could it be I didnt get the lead shot seated good enough in the bottom lube holes? Also didnt some one have a cheaper way to make a die removal tool then buying one from magma?

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg177/hotwheelz-1/Picture260.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg177/hotwheelz-1/Picture254.jpg

[38 Super Auto]

I think you are close to perfectly lubed bullets. The first thing I would look at is:

1) if you are feeding bullets nose down, the bullet needs to be a little further DOWN in the die, when the lube pump is activated (at the bottom of the stroke) So, back the base punch out a little to move the bullet down

2) if you are feeding bullets base down, the bullet needs to be a little further UP in the die, when the lube pump is activated (at the bottom of the stroke) So thread in the nose punch a little to move the bullet up

On a Star, you are configuring, with the plugging of die lube holes and nose/base punch adjustment, where the bullet is located with respect to the open lube holes, when the lube pump is activated.

Notice that at the bottom of the stroke, the punch pulls back slightly from the bullet as the lube pump is goosed.

If you are lucky, you'll be able to tweak your settings without reconfiguring which lube holes are plugged on your die.

I notice that pressure and temperature work together to make the lube flow: when I get a little lube on the base or nose, after I have tweaked in the punch adjustment, I'll back off the heat or pressure a bit.

I have full linear control of my heat. I am using two 40 Ohm resistors in parallel mounted under the press. I drive the 20 Ohm resistance with a 40V lab DC power supply. I find for uniform groove fill, each bullet has a preferred heat setting. It all works for me as long as there is adequate pressure.

[454PB]

If the sizer is warm, you can usually push the die out with a wood dowel.

[garandsrus]

Hotwheelz,

Reduce the pressure or cool the lube down a little. Getting the proper balance will eliminate the lube on the boolits nose.

John

[mtgrs737]

John as hit the nail on the head with his advise, it worked for me! I would also recomend the air cylinder for the lube resevoir they work like a champ!

[runfiverun]

with that boolit style you may not totally eliminate what you got there.
with some designs like swc it is near impossible to totally stop that.

[kooz]

Looks like you need to back off on the pressure and/or heat. I can remove my sizing dies by pushing them out with my finger once the unit is heated up.

[hotwheelz]

thanks guys , I got the heat down and backed off the pressure today seems to have fixed it. The heater barley needs to be on Im running some Blue Angle type lube and I had to run my midway heater with my lyman 450 at half throttle to get it warm enough. I really like this machine alot big upgrade from the lyman.....