What to do to strip varnish off Walnut stock?

[Clark]

196618

This is a 1950 Winchester M70 stock that has been varnished and cut for a recoil pad. Other than that, it looks good.

I hate to start sanding if there is a chemical solution.

[knifemaker]

paint stripper will remove it. Some guys even use oven cleaner to remove old varnish.

[Multigunner]

Any paint and varnish stripper will work but Homer Formby's does a very good job on antiques.

[GhostHawk]

I like Citristrip, it is a citrus based stripper. Smells good, use gloves, protect your hands.

Cleanup with warm water.

I have a couple of stocks that I have refinished. Including my old Yugo SKS, and my Racine Wisconsin Sheridan Blue Streak. Citristrip, then steel wool and true oil.

I did not sand any of the dings out of the SKS stock. I wanted to keep them, protect them. Including a name carved into the stock, a couple of burns and a deep gouge or 2.

All tell a story to my eyes. If only she could talk.

[Mr Peabody]

Any paint and varnish stripper will work but Homer Formby's does a very good job on antiques.

I'll second that. It doesn't raise the grain like some products will.

[Clark]

OK, I ordered the Homer Formby' for $20 and the Citrastrip for $10.

[pietro]

.

I only use Citristrip on epoxy stock finishes, as I found Formby's works better on removing other stock finishes (less work, etc).

I just follow the directions with the Formby's Furniture Restorer can/bottle, then let the wood dry overnite B 4 starting finishing with TruOil.

I use pads of new OOOO steel wool for the main portion of a stock, and an old or Dollar Store toothbrush to work the Formby's into checkering.

Formby's evaporates very rapidly in the open air, so I learned to pour a little bit into a non-plastic bowl & quickly re-cap the container, repeating as needed until the stock is done.

.

[RG1911]

I've had good luck using Minwax Antique refinisher on old M1 Carbine stocks. It does not raise the grain.

Richard

[Genecockrell]

If it's original varnish from that era (esp. with Remingtons) it may actually be shellac and alcohol will take it right off

[Genecockrell]

Denatured alcohol (or everclear), rubbing alcohol may not work....

[aspangler]

You might want to try brake cleaner. The spray kind. Just don't get anywhere you don't want stripped of finish such as on the car. Ask me how I know. LOL.

[waksupi]

I found at Sherwin Williams a stripper for boats and aircraft. It has removed every finish I have put it on, including Weatherby's.

[M-Tecs]

I found at Sherwin Williams a stripper for boats and aircraft. It has removed every finish I have put it on, including Weatherby's.

They have several. Which one did you use?

[waksupi]

They have several. Which one did you use?


Goldurn it. I KNEW someone was going to make me dig into the back room to get the name~!

Savogran Super Strip.

[waksupi]

196618

This is a 1950 Winchester M70 stock that has been varnished and cut for a recoil pad. Other than that, it looks good.

I hate to start sanding if there is a chemical solution.

Ya know, if you just don't care for that shiny surface, take some OOOO steel wool to it, and make it a satin finish.

[salpal48]

There is a Lot of Talk about shripping. . I know 2 stock makers in Pa . and both never strip stocks with any Chemical. Both Only scrape Them . using Razor Like Exacto Tools. . Both says scraping does a Better Job and leaves a small amount Of Finish In the grain and sand
Even In the Checkering they Use small soft wire wheels Just enough to remove The finish

[No Blue]

There is a Lot of Talk about shripping. . I know 2 stock makers in Pa . and both never strip stocks with any Chemical. Both Only scrape Them . using Razor Like Exacto Tools. . Both says scraping does a Better Job and leaves a small amount Of Finish In the grain and sand
Even In the Checkering they Use small soft wire wheels Just enough to remove The finish

They must be good to pull that off. Scrapping a flat surface isn't too hard, but nothing on a stock is flat. Most of us will make facets on the curved parts with a scrapper. Then have to sand them out.

I've been using Aircraft paint remover on lots of stuff, but never on a stock; should work. But the water rinse will raise the grain. More work!

[Hunter2506]

When I see that checkering, I see hard work.
If you do get down to bare wood, what is your plan?

[brstevns]

Acetone would also work.

[BigEyeBob]

Ive used pieces of a broken glass beer bottle to scrape stocks in the past. I refinished a Savage 24B combination gun many years ago , I would have been around 15 or 16 years of age , broken glass to scrape the old finish, sanded lightly ,and oxblood boot polish for a stain , then hand rubbed boiled linseed for the final finish. Amazing what you can do when money is tight . My Son now has that gun and the finish is stii very good.

[samari46]

Bought a couple of ex military 40x x stocks years back and the oil finish had soaked deep into the wood. All sandpaper did was clog up. Had one of those paint strippers with the blade and nylon handle. Went out in the back yard with the radio and started scraping off the old finish. Had to change directions due to the way the grain ran. Did have some nicks and dents but with 6 hours work just scraping most of them were gone. Then came the real fun, started with 220 silicon carbide wet or dry paper, then 320,400 and finished up with 600. And many coats of tru oil. I've also found that a extremely sharp knife such as one used by the electrical cable guys use down in the manholes will work just as well. Splicers knives. Blades are not thick and really thin where the edge should be. I've also a few cabinet scrapers in different shapes. You create a burr with a hardened steel rod and it will take thick or thin shavings off. Done a 40x centerfire stock and a rimfire 40x stock and after the finnish sanding no scrape marks show up when the time comes to start putting on the finish. Tru-oil or GB brothers lin speed. Frank

[samari46]

1950 means your model 70 is a pre 64 model and could be worth a few bucks, hope you realize that. Remington had a RKW bowling floor finish years back that as the devil to strip. Certa strip I believe was the preferred stripper for that type finish. Frank

[huntrick64]

Based on my previous mistakes, I think you could use Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber to totally strip and bleach a finished wood stock. My son has a Laminated stock Remington 870 youth model. The first time he sot it, he put about 200 rounds through it on the skeet range. We took it home and I shot Gun Scrubber into the action to blast out some of the power and wasn't even thinking about what it would do to the wood. It ran down the butt stock and immediately lifted the finish and bleached the stain out of the wood. I'm talking about 5 seconds. That was 10 years ago and I have yet to refinish it. He was upset then, but now says it has "character". Totally my fault. I kept the remaining portion of the can so I guess I should see if I could just strip the rest of the stock with it and re-stain/finish it for him.

[Multigunner]

Glad you posted this.
I have a can of gun scrubber I've never used. I'd have hated if I tried it and ruined a nice stock finish, especially of one of my older antiques.

[rondog]

In the past I used a product called Dawn Power Dissolver which worked great, but isn't made anymore. I've also used Purple Power with success too.

[leebuilder]

I have used easy off oven cleaner there is a citrusy version now too. I works great test a dime sized spot to see if it softens up the finish. I sometimes use broken glass to scrape a thicker finish off. Easy off is nice, it is thick and viscous and can be applied where needed and takes off oil finish and others also removes stains/mold spots. Then rince/wash with ammonia and warm water. Dents may or may not raise, you will get "hairs" in places just use steel wool to smooth it out use sand paper sparingly.
Done many like this, many were almost a century old never had an issue.
Stain as required or to you liking.
Be well

[rondog]

FWIW - I've read a lot of recommendations to NOT use steel wool, as tiny fibers of it can get stuck in wood pores and cause rusty spots in the wood, lumps in the new finish, etc.

Just a caution.....

[leebuilder]

I have read the same recommendations, I have read that you should not use easy off too. To each their own, just passing on what I use on stocks.
I find sandpaper won't remove the "hairs" but fine steel wool will. I always wipe the wood down with methal hydrate before putting on the first coat, it will get all the crud out of any pores. I also use steel wool and methal hydrate between coats for the same reason. Never had an issue.
Be aware and you will get head turning results.

[waksupi]

FWIW - I've read a lot of recommendations to NOT use steel wool, as tiny fibers of it can get stuck in wood pores and cause rusty spots in the wood, lumps in the new finish, etc.

Just a caution.....

In total, I have built around 452 rifles, and used steel wool on all of them. Some of them were exhibition pieces. Never had any problems with it. However, I never steel wool bare wood, only after I have a couple coats of finish on.

[Clark]

Any paint and varnish stripper will work but Homer Formby's does a very good job on antiques.

I started using it, and it started taking off the varnish, and then it dissolved my nitrile gloves
.
I am ordering some more chemical resistant gloves from Amazon.

[thegatman]

Restoring some American Legion 1903A3's. Rub on Citrus Stripper and scrape with old razor blade. Not too much sanding as I want to preserve the cartouches. Finish with tung oil and seal it.

[2152hq]

I scrape off old finishes also instead of using finish stripper/removers.
Very simple with a flat edge blade. Takes a bit of practice so as not to dig into the surface but is quick and leaves a very clean and smooth surface.
The curves both convex and concave are handled easily with a blade and by watching how the grain responds when scraping.
Just a small amt of touch up sanding is needed when done and I usually start with 380 grit and go right to 400.

I use a simple jack knife w/a 3" blade most times. A nice straight edge portion for the flats and the rounded clip point helps with some of the details. The work goes quickly with the stock simply held in my lap while I work. You can work right to the edges of a checkering pattern w/o touching the pattern itself. Scraping accross the grain won't show as it does with sanding as there is no grit involved.
Takes about 45min to do a butt stock & forend complete.

[retread]

Formby's is good but spendy. You can make it easily, 1 Part Lacquer thinner to 3 parts Alcohol.

[izzyjoe]

In total, I have built around 452 rifles, and used steel wool on all of them. Some of them were exhibition pieces. Never had any problems with it. However, I never steel wool bare wood, only after I have a couple coats of finish on.

Shazam! I don't think I've even seen that many in my lifetime, you are the man! I've use steel wool on many stocks, and a light pass with a propane torch with remove the hairs left behind. Just make make fast passes and not darken the wood.

[Clark]

Since i read this thread, on the lathe, I tried steel wool on a IPE, Maple, Ebony, Oak, and Cherry.

The Oak changes with steel wool. It accents the pores.

[725]

I use a tool referred to as a "furniture scrape". Nothing more than a straight piece of thin flat stock. The working edges are sharpened by a file 90 degrees to the edge of the metal. Of the two corners (edges), thus created one will be smooth and one will have a roll over edge of the displaced metal. It's that edge roll over that is the best scraper for removing shellac, etc. A good scraper in experienced hands gives a smoother finish than sandpaper. Faster, too. Matter of fact, I'll be doing one this afternoon.

[waksupi]

Since i read this thread, on the lathe, I tried steel wool on a IPE, Maple, Ebony, Oak, and Cherry.

The Oak changes with steel wool. It accents the pores.

Yes it does. Helpful in knowing if you need more coats for a good finish.

[Wayne Smith]

Oak and steel have an interesting relationship - steel blakens oak, especially white oak. I dissolve steel wool in vinegar and use it to blacken oak pieces I'm turning.

[targetfreak]

Whew. All those responses, and none of them have the last word, which is any chemical stripper (regardless of price) which has methylene chloride in it. The stuff is so powerful it will remove epoxy. Make sure the purchased stripper has some wax in it (to retard evaporation), and use protective gloves, a respirator, and do it all outdoors. DO NOT allow onto one's skin! And remove the wood from the metal before beginning.

[Clark]

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx220/ClarkM/M70%20stock%20stripped%20of%20varnish%207-5-2017.jpg

Formby's is good but spendy. You can make it easily, 1 Part Lacquer thinner to 3 parts Alcohol.

The wife got me new gloves, the stripper was dissolving my nitrite medical exam gloves.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Resistant-INDUSTRIAL-Provides-Protection/dp/B06XC7WZ5V/ref=sr_1_1

[nekshot]

looks like a nice stock! I love those older stocks , reminds me of slower and a more simple time period with some woolrich mixed in.

[leebuilder]

Nice work.
I use broken glass for scrapers, easy and zinging sharp an old cabinet maker showed me that trick.
Be well

[mulefour]

Just get a pack of box cutter blades for scrapers, I've been using them for 40 yrs now. Use them with out the handle.

[8mm]

I have a NIB Browning 1895 reproduction that I "bought right" because of shop wear inflicted by metal hangers on a wall display. Being OCD afflicted I would like to refinish the stocks to new condition. The problem is that the wood finish Moruko uses seems to be impervious to conventional strippers. Have any forum members tackled this problem and if so what did you use? Thanks.

[KCSO]

I make my own scrapers and have scraped a few stocks but for me it is slower than using stripper and if you are doing it for money, well time is money. The advantage to scrapomg is if done right all you need to do is start in on fine sandpaper and finish it out.

[Shiloh]

Klean Strip.

https://www.idealtruevalue.com/store/p/123206-Klean-Strip-QT-Premium-Brushable-Paint-Stripper.aspx


https://www.idealtruevalue.com/store/p/123207-Klean-Strip-QT-Project-Stripper-After-Wash.aspx?feed=Froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInsLmhque1QIVDohpCh1YsQfGEAYYASAB EgLmKPD_BwE

Use these and be done with it. Do it outside.

SHiloh

[725]

Lots of ways to skin a cat. They all work, I just prefer the furniture scrapper. I can do a whole stock in less time than chemicals. I end up with dry wood uncontaminated with whatever the stripper is made from. Takes out all the minor dings and scratches, too.

[rondog]

Stripped my Rossi stock today in the kitchen sink in about 5 minutes with Purple Power cleaner from the auto parts store. Sprayed it on and the stuff melted right off. Little scrubbing with a brush, cleanup with Dawn & warm water, rinsed w/warm water, towel dried, dried a couple hours in the sun. But Rossi's aren't known for awesome finishes.

No idea what the wood is though. Gonna lightly sand it, some color w/Fairtrimmers, then 50/50 BLO/turpentine.

[texasnative46]

To All,

Personally, I've found no gunstock finish that the generic citrus stripper from Home Depot won't remove.

I had a recent nice surprise when I refinished a really "doggy-looking" stock on a 760 Remington pump-rifle. Under all that spray "color shellac" finish was really PURTY grain & a piece of NICE American walnut.

I used MINWAX furniture finish in RED CHERRY & ended up with an "expensive-looking" finish on the stock.
(Inasmuch as the rifle cost me about 125 bucks, I'm pleased clear down to the ground.)

Note: My "cheap pump-rifle" is the one that will go to JES to reappear as a .400 Brown-Whelen Improved. - The .400B-WI is a ballistic twin of the well-regarded .404 Jeffery.
(IMO, it's difficult to beat a "dangerous game rifle" with scope for less than 400 bucks.)

yours, tex