Cleaning aluminum molds

[Marlin Junky]

I over smoked a Lee 6-cavity tonight and looks like I also got a little stain in one cavity from too much Bull Plate Lube. Does anyone know of a chemical that'll clean the mold down to the original finish without oxidizing it? I scrubbed the cavities with dishwashing liquid, warm water and a soft tooth brush but the stain is still there and so is some carbon in the corners. The carbon will probably produce hot spots the next time I try casting with this mold so I'd really like to clean it down to the original finish. I've tried stuff like 409 on other Al molds and it dulls the finish and also effects the mold's casting qualities. Has anyone ever soaked an Al mold in Hoppes #9 to clean out stubborn carbon deposits? What about certain jewelery cleaning liquids?

Thanks,
MJ

[shooting on a shoestring]

Well here is a down side to aluminum moulds. A caustic solution would help up break up the carbon, but would dissolve your aluminum mould. Steel would do fine with a caustic solution.

I would suggest:

1. sonicating in a soapy solution (my wife has a small sonicator for jewelry, its handy).

2. use the mould as is until you're sure its more than a cosmetic issue. You may be pleasantly suprised that you can't measure any differences in group sizes.

[leftiye]

Brass/bronze bore brush?

[HeavyMetal]

When I feel the need to clean my Lee's ( new purchase) I spray with Brake parts cleaner and then follow up with a Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol.

Be aware that if the aluminum is stained it is stained for life! Suggest you clean and resmoke then cast and see if you have an issue.

Way to many guys make a minor problem a major one by over thinking it. I smke Lee's then leave them be! I never clean and resmoke each time I cast, waste of time.

Once the mold is casting keepers and dropping them with out any hassle; leave it alone!

[jr81452]

i use liquid comet (the kind with bleach) and water. 3/1 comet to water and a nylon brush. cleans them like new.

[Marlin Junky]

i use liquid comet (the kind with bleach) and water. 3/1 comet to water and a nylon brush. cleans them like new.

Sounds abrasive. That'll clean them without scratching or oxidizing?

What about just soaking in plain old Clorox Bleach or Denatured Alcohol? Will bleach or 99% Alcohol react with aluminum? I suppose I could experiment on a Lee mold that's past its prime.

MJ

[montana_charlie]

I obtained free samples of two cleaners to use with an ultrasonic cleaner unit. I use the Micro 90 for BP fouling in rifle cases, and discovered it does a great job on iron moulds.
Thinking Micro 90 might be a little harsh for aluminum moulds, I used the Surface-Cleanse/930 instead. It also worked great.

Both of these cleaners are useful for simply soaking parts to be cleaned...according to the directions.

CM

[jr81452]

Sounds abrasive. That'll clean them without scratching or oxidizing?

What about just soaking in plain old Clorox Bleach or Denatured Alcohol? Will bleach or 99% Alcohol react with aluminum? I suppose I could experiment on a Lee mold that's past its prime.

MJ

comet by itself is something like 2600-2800 grit. when you start with the liquid comet, then mix in water it cuts it to more like 3700 grit. i guess if you sat there scrubbing for a really long time you might wear off a few ten thousandths. but it only takes maybe 2 min. per half to make them clean. i think you could probably accomplish the same thing with any fine powder based rub (ie. baking soda). basically the small particulates just grab the dirt and carbon and take it with them. it was the only thing i could find that would remove the baked on wax residue from lubing a lee mold the way the instructions say to (with lee solid lube). and its fine enough to also clean out the minuscule lee vent lines.
i've had no problems with it thus far. YMMV

[copdills]

I used Brake cleaner and soapy water on mine , after my first casting session my molds looked used too , I did reclean then but could not get all the stains off However I don't think it will effect my bullets (hope not anyway) but the way my first casting session was today LOL so take what I say with a grain of Salt LOL

GOOD LUCK :drinks:
copdills:castmine:

[Marlin Junky]

comet by itself is something like 2600-2800 grit. when you start with the liquid comet, then mix in water it cuts it to more like 3700 grit. i guess if you sat there scrubbing for a really long time you might wear off a few ten thousandths. but it only takes maybe 2 min. per half to make them clean. i think you could probably accomplish the same thing with any fine powder based rub (ie. baking soda). basically the small particulates just grab the dirt and carbon and take it with them. it was the only thing i could find that would remove the baked on wax residue from lubing a lee mold the way the instructions say to (with lee solid lube). and its fine enough to also clean out the minuscule lee vent lines.
i've had no problems with it thus far. YMMV

Thank you, jr81452, or do you prefer JR for short? :-D

So, mixing 1 fluid ounce of liquid comet with 3 fluid ounces of water would be your recommendation?

MJ

[Marlin Junky]

I used Brake cleaner and soapy water on mine , after my first casting session my molds looked used too , I did reclean then but could not get all the stains off However I don't think it will effect my bullets (hope not anyway) but the way my first casting session was today LOL so take what I say with a grain of Salt LOL

Light stains from lube may or may not have an effect on your casting outcome, but carbon inclusions will create hot spots and the result will be sunken areas or areas of crystallization, or both. Putting on just the right amount of butane soot is almost an art form and I simply got in a hurry, the flame was too high and I was trying to apply the soot in a draft and to make matters worse, I tried casting the problem away.

MJ

[wiljen]

Micro 90 as mentioned before or Brakleen brand brake cleaner (walmart).

[Marlin Junky]

I obtained free samples of two cleaners to use with an ultrasonic cleaner unit. I use the Micro 90 for BP fouling in rifle cases, and discovered it does a great job on iron moulds.
Thinking Micro 90 might be a little harsh for aluminum moulds, I used the Surface-Cleanse/930 instead. It also worked great.

Both of these cleaners are useful for simply soaking parts to be cleaned...according to the directions.

CM

I'll see if I can find some Surface-Cleanse/930 nearby. I let Google find the stuff for me and it located liter bottles in IL. Does it require HazMat?

I've got an Aluminum NEI mold on order and I want to take good care of it; therefore, this stuff may be worth the price/trouble.

MJ

[Marlin Junky]

Micro 90 as mentioned before or Brakleen brand brake cleaner (walmart).

I'll try the brake cleaner but Gumout Carb cleaner won't remove all the carbon. Is there much difference between the Brakleen brand brake cleaner and Gumout Carb cleaner?

MJ

[montana_charlie]

I'll see if I can find some Surface-Cleanse/930 nearby.
Try here http://www.ipcol.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=1&cat=Cleaners
Each product has a link for a 'sample'.
CM

[jr81452]

Thank you, jr81452, or do you prefer JR for short? :-D

So, mixing 1 fluid ounce of liquid comet with 3 fluid ounces of water would be your recommendation?

MJ

i use the "comet soft cleanser" labeled "scratch free with bleach" in the ratio of 3 parts cleanser to 1 part water. and you can call me whichever you like. or you can call me:

jason
:drinks:

[45r]

I use ZUD instead of comet,then denatured alcahol.I smoke my molds with long wooden matches that have set out a long time to dry out anything that might oil up the mold.I cut off the heads and light them up with a lighter.I apply my bull plate around the edge of the mold and re apply every half hour when I flux with the stuff print shops use.

[Bass Ackward]

I cut to the chase and use Hoppies newest gun cleaner called Elite and make it do double duty. It was developed for the AF to clean the skins of fighter aircraft down to the pores.

Works great on molds. New molds, old molds. Will even remove light rust and light lead. But if you have lead, you will have to soak. No more hasstle. I fire up the pot and can clean and de-lube three molds in about 5 minutes without water and they are ready to begin.

I keep a wet Q-Tip in a plastic sandwich bag in case I get lube in a cavity while molding.

[Marlin Junky]

Thanks to everyone for all the great ideas/products. I've shied away from aluminum molds because of a couple bad experiences but now I have no excuses for not acquiring a bunch of NEI aluminum molds. :-D Actually, now I wish I had participated in all the good .360 group buys!

MJ

[DLCTEX]

Bon Ami is my cleaning agent of choice for down and dirty scrubbing of a mold. I also use Wally World brake cleaner. DALE