yard sale pickup , worth a try ?

[Digger]

Yard sale special ....
came across a PW Metallic 2 , rusted in places and with that I have poured Kroil oil in all the right places .
We will see if anything loosens up as of right now , it does not want to rotate ....
what the heck , for 30 bucks .... thought I would roll the dice. ...[smilie=1:

195389

[JeffG]

That is pretty slick

[Petrol & Powder]

That has promise. Keep us posted.

[03fatboy]

For 30 bucks I would try it too.
I hope you have good luck getting it unstuck.

[Digger]

Yeah , already have a Hollywood senior and universal ..
most of the time I use my Lee classic cast .
Just have this soft spot for some of these toys that are being abused ..even tho I do not "need" them.

[OS OK]

I think one of the magic penetrating mixes that will unstick that ole girl is ATF and acetone mixed 50/50. Ain't sure though.

I know what you mean about having a 'spot' for those old presses...I've got a RCBS Green Machine coming next week...can't wait to get my monkey paws on her!

[No Blue]

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

Plastic garbage can, battery charger, washing soda, water, plop it in and let it work. It'll get ALL the rust without any work. Lots cheaper than all the oil based penetration slurry....

[Kevin Rohrer]

If nothing else works, try PB Blaster.

PW has replacement parts from anything that needs replacing.

[bbogue1]

Friend of mine used to work on a rail road bridge maintenance crew back in the late 50's, 60's and 70's. The way they would prepare a bridge for dismantling back then was to send the least senior crewman to the bridge with a large quantity of ATF and acetone. His job was to put a 50/50 mix onto every bolt head and nut. Daily he was to apply the mix once in the morning and once in the evening. Sometime during the day he was to take a hammer and smack the nut side. Last thing to do was to test the nut and see if it would come loose. Took anywhere from a week to a month but when every nut would turn a little the whole crew would come and take apart the bridge by hand. Much of the time the bridge was reused.

Back then ATF had whale oil in it and ATF was never changed. Today we have regular ATF and synthetic. Neither have whale oil in them, however, both will work equally well when mixed with acetone. The only drawback is the mix creeps. I have some in a small dropper bottle (used to hold eyedrops) that I keep in a large orange pill bottle because the mix will creep out of the dropper bottle and make a mess on the shelf.

Be sure to shake it before using.

[psweigle]

I think one of the magic penetrating mixes that will unstick that ole girl is ATF and acetone mixed 50/50. Ain't sure though.

I know what you mean about having a 'spot' for those old presses...I've got a RCBS Green Machine coming next week...can't wait to get my monkey paws on her!
Now I'm just envious. I am very interested in the green machine. Would love to have one in 38/357. Lots of pictures when you get it please!!!

[OS OK]

I will...it is .38/.357", couldn't ask for a better caliber in my shop. I have been running those on my Lyman T Mag II at a pretty good clip but don't use too many so I think the GM will do fine. It doesn't have the original boolit seater so I'll have to look far and wide for that but until then it'll do fine setting them by hand.
The way they work just mesmerizes me...and the over engineered parts of yesteryear last forever.

[psweigle]

Super! Can't wait to see it in action!

[Digger]

Strangely enough , these items were with it as the gentleman thought it all belonged together ...
a CH jacketed bullet cannelure tool ... never even knew they existed !, until I chased it down on their site .
the tell was their stamp on it.

195441

Also a fishing sinker kit so to speak ... for casting the "tear drop" type sinkers ...
Ironic ...as I melt all sinkers I come across for my ingot stash .

195442

[OS OK]

Digger...the first casting I did was fishing sinkers when I was a pre teen. I clamped two oak boards together and drilled a 1/2" hole in-between the two halves of the make shift mold...when the lead was still moulten my sister would stick a swivel in the top and hold it with needle nose pliers.
I'll bet I've left a thousand of those in the San Bernard River down in Texas!
Think how pleased I was when I discovered that K-Mart sold those moulds!

[Digger]

Was able to dismantle all to a point ....
Worst of the parts is the Primer seater assembly and the guide rod ... if you can see in the original pic , the little rod to the right of the swing pattern .
Rust is extreme on both , was able to finally extract the primer assembly but will have to replace ...
The guide rod (don't know for sure if it is that , just a guess at this point ) is still rusted solid in the slider section.
will let it sit for a while longer soaking ...
Will have to replace both at least if possible .

[Traffer]

I would dismantle it and take a wire wheel to the rams. Clean the bearings carefully.

[psweigle]

I have faith in you brother! I would love to see that in action.

[PB234]

As of a couple years ago PW still sold many parts for that press. One had to get a copy of the parts diagram and really understand what was wanted as the guy I would speak to at PW was not really up to speed. It felt as though their inventory control system used new numbers for the items and he had to go from an old parts chart to a new parts chart and try to figure out what was trying to be ordered. $30 is a steal if you can manage to get it up and working. Probably another bunch of money in parts and you are there. I wanted one for years and got one that was missing a bunch of parts and was able to get the parts from PW which was an effort. It is a good functional machine for me.

[1bluehorse]

Ponsness Warren STILL makes that press. If you're wondering if investing a bit of money into it is worth it, that press now-a-days brings well over $500.00 new. PW equipment is definitely top shelf and very durable. I've never had one of the metallic loaders but do have shot shell loaders and to me are the best you can buy. Spolar may be the exception to that, I've not used one of those. Great find for the price. I do wonder at times how a fine piece of equipment like that gets to be in that condition??

Also the "guy" you speak to if you call is probably the owner of PW so he more than likely is "up to speed"...

[Three44s]

I think you did quite well there!

From my work, usually with rust on the farm, Kroil is my favorite with aerokroil having the edge.

I have seen where heat was employed on rusty exhaust bolts on a Diesel engine that a high sulphur cutting oil beat it and I have mixed atf and acetone and not seen the results that kroil or aerokroil gives me.

I like PB blaster but again, the Kano products still get my nod.

Good luck on the Ponsness Warren save!

Three44s

[flint45]

Give it some time it will break lose.Add a little heat to it be careful of the finish just so it expands and contracts thats how I used to get frozen Garand barrels out had one that took 8 days!

[PB234]

My experience was up to speed was maybe 5 miles an hour. Even so taking the time to deal with them ended up providing a press I wanted for decades and would never pay for new. I probably still have some parts PW sent to me that were incorrect and others were returned as they were for the other metallic reloader which was obvious to me as I have one purchased a long time ago and appreciate the solid old fashioned quality of it. I don't have a Dillon, but isn't the cost of the 550 about $500? Maybe this is why PW now seems to concentrate on other products. The press pictured is an older one with the brass plate. Mine also has the brass plate and a very low serial number which makes me like it even more. This is making me want to start looking for a used CH press which I would love to have. $30 plus maybe a hundred dollars of parts for this PW press is an outstanding value you could probably sell on fleabay for 2x that amount of money and maybe more.

My expectation is they have focused on their shot shell loaders and other products.

[Grmps]

If Kroil doesn't work try
DIY Rust Remover
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils.
the torque required to loosen them.
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

[Texas by God]

When I was a kid with my Mec 600 Jr.; The Ponsess-Warren was the ne plus ultra of shotshell loaders. It may well still be.

[Digger]

Unfortunately looks like I will have to do a complete repaint as it is flaking off parts of the main body also.
Too bad as the original paint is a very nice krackle finish .

[flashhole]

Excellent score. Please post pics of the restoring process.

[omgb]

To get the rust off of those smaller parts I'd do the following as it has worked for me man times when refinishing lanterns and Coleman items: Get a small plastic tub, a box of washing soda, two pieces of mild steel rod, a car battery charger and a gallon of hot water. Dissolve about 3/4 of a cup of washing soda in a gallon of warm to hot water. Using wooden cloths pins, pint the two rods to the side of the tub (the tub should be about 4 inches across and 8 inches deep.) 180 degrees apart. Bridge the steel rods with some lamp cord to complete a full looped circuit. Fill the tub to the top with water. Now using some steel wire and a piece of dowel, suspend the parts in question fully submerged in the solution and mid-way between the two rods. Hook up the charger to the steel rods and the suspended part. I'll have to look up which gets the positive and which gets the negative but it is important. When you give it power you will see bubbles forming and particles moving from the rusty part to the steel rods. (it is imperative that you degrease everything before you start) In a few hours you may have to rotate the part and clean the sludge off of the rods. A full 12 hour cycle will usually remove all of the rust leaving only clean, rust-free steel.

[retread]

Unfortunately looks like I will have to do a complete repaint as it is flaking off parts of the main body also.
Too bad as the original paint is a very nice krackle finish .

I will have to take a look out in my shop. I have used what looks to be that color crackle finish in the past. If I still have a can I will post the info.

[retread]

Success! I still had a can out in the shop. It is a green but I have used the gray in the past. Here is the info off the can.

HAMMERITE
Hammered Metal Finish

Hunting Speciality Products Inc.
265 S. West Street
Lebanon, OH 46036


Hope they still exist. It has been a few years since I have bought some.

Jay

[Digger]

Success! I still had a can out in the shop. It is a green but I have used the gray in the past. Here is the info off the can.

HAMMERITE
Hammered Metal Finish

Hunting Speciality Products Inc.
265 S. West Street
Lebanon, OH 46036


Hope they still exist. It has been a few years since I have bought some.

Jay

Will chase that down ...
thanks to all here with all the valuable input , will definitely try these techniques mentioned ..

[John Allen]

I would have grabbed it myself.


Yard sale special ....
came across a PW Metallic 2 , rusted in places and with that I have poured Kroil oil in all the right places .
We will see if anything loosens up as of right now , it does not want to rotate ....
what the heck , for 30 bucks .... thought I would roll the dice. ...[smilie=1:

195389

[No Blue]

To get the rust off of those smaller parts I'd do the following as it has worked for me man times when refinishing lanterns and Coleman items: Get a small plastic tub, a box of washing soda, two pieces of mild steel rod, a car battery charger and a gallon of hot water. Dissolve about 3/4 of a cup of washing soda in a gallon of warm to hot water. Using wooden cloths pins, pint the two rods to the side of the tub (the tub should be about 4 inches across and 8 inches deep.) 180 degrees apart. Bridge the steel rods with some lamp cord to complete a full looped circuit. Fill the tub to the top with water. Now using some steel wire and a piece of dowel, suspend the parts in question fully submerged in the solution and mid-way between the two rods. Hook up the charger to the steel rods and the suspended part. I'll have to look up which gets the positive and which gets the negative but it is important. When you give it power you will see bubbles forming and particles moving from the rusty part to the steel rods. (it is imperative that you degrease everything before you start) In a few hours you may have to rotate the part and clean the sludge off of the rods. A full 12 hour cycle will usually remove all of the rust leaving only clean, rust-free steel.

I suggested electrolytic derusting 20 posts ago, but it seems you and I are the only ones that are aware of it. Everybody else wants to go full 'Love Canal' with the petro-chemicals and get a bigger hammer when it won't move....

(Love Canal was a toxic waste super fund site in the early '70s...not some prurient remark...)

[omgb]

I knew what you meant. First EPA superfund site

[No Blue]

I knew what you meant. First EPA superfund site

You'd be surprised by the number that wouldn't; somebody 50 might not know about it, too young. Or not a reader, or no memory.

Another forum, somebody posted a picture of a bulbous silver motorcycle and I said Gort would ride it. Couple of other posters said they had to web search Gort to figure out what I was talking about.

My neighbor happened by while I was watching that same movie and had no idea what it was about, never seen it; he was 45 and the move was 50 at the time.

So I never know....LOL

[omgb]

The day the Earth stood still

[mwhite49]

Yard sale special ....
came across a PW Metallic 2 , rusted in places and with that I have poured Kroil oil in all the right places .
We will see if anything loosens up as of right now , it does not want to rotate ....
what the heck , for 30 bucks .... thought I would roll the dice. ...[smilie=1:

195389

Very nice find.

[54bore]

I drive by The Ponsness Warren Co. Fairly often, they make a nice press for sure!

[Kevin Rohrer]

I would dismantle it and take a wire wheel to the rams. Clean the bearings carefully.

No! Use PB Blaster to unstick everything and Citric Acid or some other chemical to gently remove the rust.

[Kevin Rohrer]

The day the Earth stood still

Klatuu Baradus Nicto

[Hamish]

Klatuu Baradus Nicto

Actual script page:

198483

[No Blue]

Klatuu Baradus Nicto

You and Hammish; discover a 5 week old thread....get out your M1 Carbine and 1911 and shoot that alien! (can I have all your gun stuff after Gort flames you?)

I first saw this in 1961. NBC Saturday Night Movie. Scared the sheet out of me at 9. Still watch it whenever I can.....

[flashhole]

Time for the OP to show his progress.

[wills]

To get the rust off of those smaller parts I'd do the following as it has worked for me man times when refinishing lanterns and Coleman items: Get a small plastic tub, a box of washing soda, two pieces of mild steel rod, a car battery charger and a gallon of hot water. Dissolve about 3/4 of a cup of washing soda in a gallon of warm to hot water. Using wooden cloths pins, pint the two rods to the side of the tub (the tub should be about 4 inches across and 8 inches deep.) 180 degrees apart. Bridge the steel rods with some lamp cord to complete a full looped circuit. Fill the tub to the top with water. Now using some steel wire and a piece of dowel, suspend the parts in question fully submerged in the solution and mid-way between the two rods. Hook up the charger to the steel rods and the suspended part. I'll have to look up which gets the positive and which gets the negative but it is important. When you give it power you will see bubbles forming and particles moving from the rusty part to the steel rods. (it is imperative that you degrease everything before you start) In a few hours you may have to rotate the part and clean the sludge off of the rods. A full 12 hour cycle will usually remove all of the rust leaving only clean, rust-free steel.

Lots of articles on this.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=electrolysis+rust+removal

[woodbutcher]

:lol: Yep.Saw that movie in the local theater when it first came out.
Yep,I`m just an old phart.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo