New to me S&W 64

[waarp8nt]

Picked up a S&W 64 from GB. It needed grips and a hammer nose. Picked up a set of Altamont grips and a couple of hammer noses from the internet. It's a DOC or LE trade in, however it appears to have been carried a lot and shot very little. Some cosmetic scratches that I plan to polish up a bit with flitz, however the bore and cylinder look very good. Loaded up a few 158 grs round nose flat point over 3.2 hrs of American Select with CCI primers. Shows some potential for accuracy. Grabbed a chunk of cardboard and stepped off 15 yards. Was able too keep all six shots on a 12x12 inch piece plywood at 50+ yards.

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[Hick]

Very nice. My first revolver is also a Model 64. I didn't know anything about revolvers, but my son is a police officer in KY, and has a part time gun shop. He found it for me and assured me I would like it. Mine also is LE trade-in. For what its worth-- if you are steady enough the 4 inch barrel Model 64 will keep your shots in a 12" square at 50 yards.

[Drm50]

I just traded one off couple months ago. I have no use for a gun of that type. Mine was a 3" job
very good shape.194837

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Congratulations, waarp8nt, good acquisition. Can almost never go wrong with a S&W.

[Sasquatch-1]

Great guns. I carried one off duty for about 8 years. The only reason I stopped was I opted for the smaller "J" frame 60. Both of mine were 2" and in competent hands could put all shots in the 10 ring on a "B-27" target at 15 yds.

[Petrol & Powder]

The S&W Model 64 is a great gun. It's basically a stainless version of the model 10 with a heavy barrel. They were work horses and will not let you down.

I've had several different Model 64's over the years. Here's my current 4" model 64:

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I need to get those grips off of it but just haven't got around to doing it. Those grips on the OP's gun are sharp, I may look into those.

When you buy a used K-frame chambered in .357 mag, like a model 13, 19, 65 or 66; you have no idea how many magnum loads were shot through the gun before it came to you. When you buy a used K-frame chambered in 38 Special, you have no such concerns.

[Lefty Red]

Jealous! Can't find a 3" anything around here.


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[9.3X62AL]

For many years, my old shop issued the S&W Model 64 revolvers--both 4" for uniform/general duty and 2" for plainclothes duty. They probably still have them in inventory, though personal-purchase sidearms of about 300 makes and variants are authorized--rollers and sliders. The S&W K-frame M&P series revolvers were and are among the best firearms ever made in this country.

[FergusonTO35]

Love those K-frames! Last summer I got a really sweet ex-California Dept. of Corrections 10-10. Only problem is the yawning cylinder to barrel gap of .010 which allows a lot of fouling and velocity to escape. Is a gap this large typical of the later K frames?

[Petrol & Powder]

............Is a gap this large typical of the later K frames?
Not that I've seen but they're worth fixing.
Get someone to set the barrel back one thread, recut the breach face/forcing cone and correct any end shake if needed. You'll have a great gun after that and still will not have a lot of money in it.
You can do the work yourself but all of the jigs and cutters will cost you more than paying someone to do it.

[Sasquatch-1]

If you check the Midway gunsmithing videos on YouTube there is one about shimming the cylinder to remove gap and back to front movement on the Smith revolvers.


Love those K-frames! Last summer I got a really sweet ex-California Dept. of Corrections 10-10. Only problem is the yawning cylinder to barrel gap of .010 which allows a lot of fouling and velocity to escape. Is a gap this large typical of the later K frames?

[Petrol & Powder]

Shimming the yoke will help to eliminate end shake but it will not reduce the barrel/cylinder gap.

If the only issue is a B/C gap of .010" and the gun shoots ok, I might be inclined to leave it alone. However, if there were other problems such as end shake or a bad forcing cone it would be worth the effort and money to set it right. In the end you would have an excellent gun.

[rintinglen]

I have been looking for one at a reasonable price for some time with no luck, I envy you your success.
For the non-enthusiast, there is no better gun. I once watched a San Diego sheriffs Deputy put 6 out of 6 off-hand standing in the 10 ring on a B-27 target from the 50 yard line with one--a feat I could scarcely match with a tricked-out bull barrel PPC gun. And I was a pretty good shooter then.

[Scharfschuetze]

Nice purchase. I have the Model 65 which is really the same other than it's chambered for the 357 cartridge. They look like a plow horse, but run like a race horse. Great revolvers.

This one hasn't missed a beat since I bought it new in 1977. I'm here today courtesy of its reliability and accuracy.

[imashooter2]

Mine is a California Department of Corrections trade in and a bit stubbier...

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My only beef with them is the silver on silver sights. Fixed mine with some flat black and Chevy engine orange.

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[Char-Gar]

I have a 4" and a 2" and both are here to stay.

[Lefty Red]

Mine is a California Department of Corrections trade in and a bit stubbier...

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My only beef with them is the silver on silver sights. Fixed mine with some flat black and Chevy engine orange.

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Drooling!


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[waarp8nt]

Put a bit of a Flitz shine on it by hand yesterday evening, surprised at how nasty the rag looked when I was done. This weekend was too busy for joys of shooting, I missed out on an offer to go squeeze off a few with a good friend of mine from here on the forum. Planning to shoot it more later this week, if the spring rains hold out.

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[Lefty Red]

Oh yeah!


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[Petrol & Powder]

Looks Good !

Get a couple of Safariland Comp II speedloaders and find a good load for it.

[shooting on a shoestring]

A point from Scharfschetze, "This one hasn't missed a beat since I bought it new in 1977. I'm here today courtesy of its reliability and accuracy".

The K-Frames are like a good dog. They're sweet to play with, but they're all fangs and business when an intruder comes through the door.

[Von Dingo]

That is looking GREAT waarp8nt! Really liking those grips, they look like the targets by the lack of finger grooves? How far do they extend below the bottom of the grip frame? I've got pretty big hands...



Put a bit of a Flitz shine on it by hand yesterday evening, surprised at how nasty the rag looked when I was done. This weekend was too busy for joys of shooting, I missed out on an offer to go squeeze off a few with a good friend of mine from here on the forum. Planning to shoot it more later this week, if the spring rains hold out.

195029

[Wayne Dobbs]

I have a 4" and a 2" and both are here to stay.

Amen, brother! I have a 3" NY-1, a 4" SB and a very nice Ted Yost custom 3.5" built on a 4" NY-1. Great guns, all.

[waarp8nt]

That is looking GREAT waarp8nt! Really liking those grips, they look like the targets by the lack of finger grooves? How far do they extend below the bottom of the grip frame? I've got pretty big hands...

The grips are Altamont target grips in silver/black color. They stick down aprox 9/16 of an inch. I'm cheap and tried to find a good set of used grips here on the forum and a few internet auction sites, with no luck after a week, I ordered new grips. Eventhough I'm resourceful (cheap), I think the grips are worth the money, I like them and have no buyers remorse. I've have pretty good size hands too, finger grooves typically do not fit me. A firm believer that a picture is worth a thousand words, here are a few for your viewing pleasure or not (please remember I am not a hand model) ;)

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A point from Scharfschetze, "This one hasn't missed a beat since I bought it new in 1977. I'm here today courtesy of its reliability and accuracy".

Words of wisdom spoken by a wise and experienced shooter, he is a fine example to follow!

My accuracy is pretty good and I think I will be able to refine it with a little more practice. Shot 12 rounds, 6 at 10 and 6 at 15 yards. Group opened up a bit at 15. Loads are commercial cast 158 grain RNFP over 3.2 grains of American Select fired up by a CCI primer. Might have to give red dot a try....its been awhile since I've loaded 38's, any load suggestions?

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[Bookworm]

I can give you this load -

158g Lee TL358-158-2R (160g as cast), tumble-lubed w/BLL,mixed brass, 3.5g HP38. Med. roll crimp. CCI SPP.
Fired from the a 4" S&W Model 10, it chrono'd at 680fps.

Somewhat slower than expected, considering max load is 3.7g.

Accuracy was good, but I was hoping for closer to 750fps. It did impact about 3" high at 10yds, probably because of the low velocity.

I'm going to load some to max, and try it again.

[Walkingwolf]

I can give you this load -

158g Lee TL358-158-2R (160g as cast), tumble-lubed w/BLL,mixed brass, 3.5g HP38. Med. roll crimp. CCI SPP.
Fired from the a 4" S&W Model 10, it chrono'd at 680fps.

Somewhat slower than expected, considering max load is 3.7g.

Accuracy was good, but I was hoping for closer to 750fps. It did impact about 3" high at 10yds, probably because of the low velocity.

I'm going to load some to max, and try it again.

I used 3.0 grains titegroup under a lee 158 round nose flat point. Cast 50/50 WW to pure lead, after coated 165 grains. This got me 750fps from a four inch GP100, and 650fps from a Rossi 352 two inch.

[Jniedbalski]

That is the same one I got a few months ago. My trigger in da/ sa is very good . Besides a few light scratches above one grip and a little grip whear on one side it looks like like it wasn't shot much. It seems really accurate with any light loads I give it

[gwpercle]

My model 64 has two 38 special loads it just loves.
Both with the NOE 360-160-WC (360432) which is a recreation of the discontinued
Lyman mould # 358432 wadcutter boolit , sized .358 , with:

1.) 2.8 grains of Bullseye

2.) 5.5 grains of Accurate Arms #5

Both of these loads are tack drivers in my 64 .
Nice gun , you did good . You will like it.
Gary

[Petrol & Powder]

After seeing those nice Altamont grips on the OP's model 64, I decided that my 64 needed a set.

Here's a 4" 64 with the Altamont target grips and a 2" 64 with the Eagle Secret Service grips.

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[Bookworm]

I used 3.0 grains titegroup under a lee 158 round nose flat point. Cast 50/50 WW to pure lead, after coated 165 grains. This got me 750fps from a four inch GP100, and 650fps from a Rossi 352 two inch.

Thanks for the load info. I have some Titegroup, I'll have to try this one.

[FergusonTO35]

Me too, my .38's need to stretch their legs!

[Jniedbalski]

My police trade in S@W model 64 shoots all my lead boolets very good. It also likes the horandy 357 125 Gr XTP HP. I tried Hodgen Auto comp with the XTP and was really impressed with the groups. The lee molds I have tried are 358 125 RF. great shooting and easy casting .358 148WC Great shooting with light Bullseye loads.358 158RF only cast and shot a few but looks like a good small game boolet. I have two lee 9 mm molds a 356 1242R and a 356 124tc that cast at .358 .3585 that also shoot good no leading all tumble lubed with white label 45 45 10 . The trigger is very good in sa/da. The trigger actually amazed me in da mode. Most revolvers I have shot the da mode is rather hard. This pistols to me is rather heavy for its size but balances great and the extra weight helps me stay on target. The fit of parts is extreamly good. It doesn't look like it was shot much but has a few light scratches above the right grip. What is the best way to get them out? I have read fitz metal polish works good or is there something else I can use to hand rub or polish them out. I guess the whole gun would need polished or hand rubbed so not to have shinney spots in small areas. The cylinder gap is very tight. The only thing I was wondering about is the cylinder lock up. It seems to lock up tight. But with tha hammer all the way back I can wiggle its cylinder ever so slightly . Probley only two or three thousands. Is this normal ? Also the cylinder throats seem uniform except for two. I took a horandy XTP .357 bullet and pushed them through all six. Four cylinders they pushed through with slight resistance by hand .One cylinder it was slightly harder and the last one I could not push it through without tapping it out with a lot more force ,cleaning rod with Wood block. Would it benefit my groups to get the cylinder reamed? Thanks

[Von Dingo]

Warrp8nt, thanks for the response. Definitely actionable information.

Firmly believe the K frame is one of the greatest machines ever created by humans...!

While I've found RedDot to need individual weighing of each charge, it has proven wildly accurate with the 158 Lee RNFP.

[Walkingwolf]

My police trade in S@W model 64 shoots all my lead boolets very good. It also likes the horandy 357 125 Gr XTP HP. I tried Hodgen Auto comp with the XTP and was really impressed with the groups. The lee molds I have tried are 358 125 RF. great shooting and easy casting .358 148WC Great shooting with light Bullseye loads.358 158RF only cast and shot a few but looks like a good small game boolet. I have two lee 9 mm molds a 356 1242R and a 356 124tc that cast at .358 .3585 that also shoot good no leading all tumble lubed with white label 45 45 10 . The trigger is very good in sa/da. The trigger actually amazed me in da mode. Most revolvers I have shot the da mode is rather hard. This pistols to me is rather heavy for its size but balances great and the extra weight helps me stay on target. The fit of parts is extreamly good. It doesn't look like it was shot much but has a few light scratches above the right grip. What is the best way to get them out? I have read fitz metal polish works good or is there something else I can use to hand rub or polish them out. I guess the whole gun would need polished or hand rubbed so not to have shinney spots in small areas. The cylinder gap is very tight. The only thing I was wondering about is the cylinder lock up. It seems to lock up tight. But with tha hammer all the way back I can wiggle its cylinder ever so slightly . Probley only two or three thousands. Is this normal ? Also the cylinder throats seem uniform except for two. I took a horandy XTP .357 bullet and pushed them through all six. Four cylinders they pushed through with slight resistance by hand .One cylinder it was slightly harder and the last one I could not push it through without tapping it out with a lot more force ,cleaning rod with Wood block. Would it benefit my groups to get the cylinder reamed? Thanks

You can use scotch brite pads to give an even brushed finish, which is very close to factory. Once the scratches have been removed, or dulled, you can come back with mothers mag polish for a shiny, or even mirror finish.

Yes the wiggle is normal for S&W revolvers, they are timed to lock up just before the hammer falls, where Colts are timed to lock up the moment the trigger is pulled. Many people mistake the slight play as a problem with Smiths, and also get confused by the Colt slow timing. Neither is of concern, unless the guns are shaving lead, or it is extreme.

I was originally issued a model 64 stamped Lake PD in 1978. Out of the box it had a satin brushed finish, it also had the slight play at lock up, and was extremely accurate. I just got my trade in 64 about a month ago, it was almost new. I did use Scotch Brite pads to take it to a brushed finish like my original Lake PD 64, but broke down and polished it to a shiny finish.

As to your cylinder variance, that is normal, and may even be some carbon still in the chambers. Unless the chambers are smaller than the bore it should not affect it. Measure the one cylinder, and see if the bullet changes size after it is pushed through. You may have also sized the bullet if the first cylinder you pushed through was tight, then making it slip through the others. If it shoots lead great, IMO, don't mess with it.

[Big Mak]

That's beautiful!

[John Allen]

The Smith K-Frames are hard to beat. I have about a dozen I love them.

[Jniedbalski]

Thanks for the info. I never had a S&w revolver because of price. They where always just a little bit more than I wanted to spend. The police trade in guns are now in My price range and glad I finally got one. I Remember just a few years ago the model 10's where going for 199.00$ when I pushed the XTP bullet I through each cylinder I used a new bullet each time and also tried one bullet in the four cylinder's that was only a slight resistance. So no sizing down. Now the tight cylinder it's very hard to push the new bullet the XTP through. Have to use a cleaning rod and wood block to get it through. Also after it goes through the tight cylinder it leaves two lines that looks almost like a single riffling grove in the copper jacket. I have cleaned all the chambers real good so no carbon. It has to be a burr in it. I might want to polish it out some how with out messing it up. The four chambers that the XTP bullet will go through are very uniform. They only have a slight resistance or push ,all four feel equal. The 5 one is just slightly harder but the 6th chamber is very tight I can't push it through by hand at all. This seems to tight to me should I have it honed and would it improve accuracy thanks

[9.3X62AL]

Only take tools to throats if an actual problem exists. The "problem"--if it exists--could be a flyer that shows up every cylinder-full. To test that out, fire 5-10 shots from the same charge hole/chamber, then go to the next charge hole and repeat through all 6 charge holes. Use known good ammo; I use factory-load W-W Super-X target wadcutters. If there is a "problem" chamber/throat, it will be pretty obvious when you fire at 15-25 yards. If you can't discern a difference between the chambers' performances, then leave things alone.

I have A BUNCH of wheelguns currently, and have sold off even more than what I have now. These run the caliber gamut from 22 LR to 45 Colt. I have been a revolver shooter for 40+ years, and to date I have had ONE throat job done to my sidearms--a Ruger Bisley Blackhawk in 45 Colt. Ruger 45 Colts and 44/40 WCFs from the 1990s were notorious for their undersized throats--my own has .452" grooves but had .448"-.449" throats. Even then, it still shot one cast bullet pretty darn well, and the few jacketed bullets I gave it "pre-surgery" shot OK.

If I found a tight throat in a new-to-me revolver (I use pin gauges to assess these things) I would first make darn certain that the throat was clean. A burr might get armorer or gunsmith attention. If the gun shoots well, though--leave it alone.

[Von Dingo]

I might want to polish it out some how with out messing it up. The four chambers that the XTP bullet will go through are very uniform. They only have a slight resistance or push ,all four feel equal. The 5 one is just slightly harder but the 6th chamber is very tight I can't push it through by hand at all. This seems to tight to me should I have it honed and would it improve accuracy thanks

You are pushing into the land of diminishing returns, beware. Have you mic'ed the slugs? Not with a dial caliper, but with a micrometer? Did you mark the chambers on the cylinder, when you were using the slugs to check it? There can also be production variances with factory slugs.

The finish on the chambers in a Smith & Wesson are beautiful, REALLY BEAUTIFUL, compare them to a Ruger under magnification (and I love my Rugers, but really). Trying to shave a couple ten thousandths out of the one chambers throat realistically will not improve accuracy on a fixed sighted duty revolver to the level that is going to affect your world. Worse case, may take a nice revolver with decades of life left and turn it's life for the worse. Very rarely is anything made by man approaching perfect, enjoy life, shoot it and don't tell anyone else about the one throat.

[waarp8nt]

Curiosity got me. It took me quite some time to find a box of jacketed bullet for a pistol, I do not recall purchasing any for 38/357 since I started casting some time ago. Upon searching for some jacketed bullets I located a few things of interest that had long since been misplaced. A few 32 Rimfire rounds, some 6mm gas checks and a half box of shot capsules.

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I did find a partial box of jacket bullets by Hornady, all of my cylinders were good. Non were overly tight and all had similar resistance...never really heard of S&W having this issue. I had a friend who used to repair the Rugers, I would give you his number, but cancer took him a few years ago.

Accuracy on mine is good. It's coming together good now that I have a couple boxes of ammo through it.

~sorry no luck with getting the target picture to upload~

[rugerdude]

I work for the Georgia Department of Corrections and I'm working hard on getting one (or more!) transferred to me through my warden and the department during the next trade in. Being the "top shot" at our facility more often than not and also working on becoming a training officer has it's advantages!

I love the 64's and DOC guns only see use during qualifying so most have very little internal wear.

[waarp8nt]

I work for the Georgia Department of Corrections and I'm working hard on getting one (or more!) transferred to me through my warden and the department during the next trade in. Being the "top shot" at our facility more often than not and also working on becoming a training officer has it's advantages!

I love the 64's and DOC guns only see use during qualifying so most have very little internal wear.

Thats awesome. Hope you end up with a dozen!

Nice looking 64's fellows. Petrol and Powder those are some fine grips!

Here is my last target I couldn't get to upload. Shot from 5 to 25 yards.

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Here is the Hornady bullets in the cylinder.

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[FergusonTO35]

My 10-10 with the large cylinder gap shoots really well otherwise. I think I'm going to trade/partial trade it on a 67 since I have always wanted one and I already have a 10-5. My little Rossi 461 also has a yawning gap but shoots like a champ. Only gave $230.00 for it LNIB so I can't complain too loudly.