Want this?

[45 2.1]

A nice Fat boolit!

[SharpsShooter]

Looks good. I could shoot that one as cast out of my 75 Sharps or my 1895 Marlin. Looks like it would carry enough lube for Black Powder or smokeless.

[KB291]

Looks good to me. I'll take one.

[nighthunter]

I'd be interested.

[rugerman1]

I have a 458 Ruger that has a .4595 barrel,this might just be the ticket for it. [smilie=w:

[porkchop bob]

A nice Fat boolit!

If available in a 6-C mold, I would buy two. :smile:

Bob

[9.3X62AL]

All for it here. Just what I wanted.

[45 2.1]

LEE six cavity. I'm NOT the honcho, who will be?

[Willbird]

Yes I want a 6c in that bullet.

I would hope there is somebody that wants to Honcho it bad, if not I will raise my hand.

Bill

[SharpsShooter]

I've not yet used a 6 cavity Lee, but I have had my share of problems with their singles. That said, are the 6 bangers better quality or just 5 more holes to fix?

[Willbird]

The 6c are much much better quality, they have steel pins in steel bushings to align the two blocks, the handles are better (but must be bought seperately) The sprue plate is anchored on both ends, and has a cam operated handle to cut the sprue. The sprueplate is also anodised aluminum.

Bill

[PatMarlin]

Isn't that to big of a boolit for a 6 banger in regards to heat?

I'll take one, but only if I can "Buy it now", and get it now with "free shipping", and "free sales tax", and 30 days "you're money back" if not satisfied, free "hands on" traning with "full lifetime" warranty, and that you will price match any mold that is priced lower, and guaranttee you will beat that price by 10 percent..... OK? :Fire: :coffeecom

...Oh yeah I forgot about the "3 EASY payments" on my credit card with no interests til May 2006, and are there any "free extras"?

[45 2.1]

Isn't that to big of a boolit for a 6 banger in regards to heat?

We've already done a 400 gr. 0.454" diameter paper patch mold. No basic difference.

I'll take one, but only if I can "Buy it now", and get it now with "free shipping", and "free sales tax", and 30 days "you're money back" if not satisfied, free "hands on" traning with "full lifetime" warranty, and that you will price match any mold that is priced lower, and guaranttee you will beat that price by 10 percent..... OK? http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/images/smilies/fire.gif http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/images/smilies/coffecomputer.gif

No, you buy it just like we do.

...Oh yeah I forgot about the "3 EASY payments" on my credit card with no interests til May 2006, and are there any "free extras"?

Definitely NO!!! and NO!!!!!!!

[MGySgt]

Any possibility of it being a Gas Check???

Looks like it would be a real good all around fun shooting bullet out of any 45 rifle! (well maybe not a 45 Colt)

Drew

[grumble]

I'll take one, too. Would prefer a gas check, but PB will be ok.

[45 2.1]

Any possibility of it being a Gas Check???

Looks like it would be a real good all around fun shooting bullet out of any 45 rifle! (well maybe not a 45 Colt)

Drew

I wish ya'll would dicover Freechecks, Freecheck this thing cast soft at 6 to 8 BHN and send it out at 1600 fps will expand it to over an inch. Not much at all will stand after one of those. Freechecks can get you 2000 fps without much leading if you load it right.

[SharpsShooter]

My bank gives free checks, but I doubt they would do a bit of good if I stuffed em in the case. I'm not a GC fan, but what are freechecks?

[MGySgt]

I wish ya'll would dicover Freechecks .

Please enlighten this dumb old retired Marine!

[grumble]

"I wish ya'll would dicover Freechecks..."

Me, I wish you'd tell us more about Freechecks. You've made reference to them several times, but I don't recall that you answered any questions about them so we COULD find out more.

What are they? Where can we find out more about them? Are they some sort of secret that only you know about?

[Willbird]

I agree with 452.1, it is a terrible thing to circumcise a medium velocity bullet.

Bill

[45 2.1]

OK Guys-

A Freecheck is a disc cut from a pop can that is about 0.15" larger than your plain base bullet. You swage this disc onto your bullet in your lubrisizer when you size and lube it. It can be done fairly easily for any caliber. You need to alter the top and bore of your sizing die and make an alignment disc on a lathe plus you buy a wad punch from someone like Buffalo arms that is the right size for your caliber. I have alot of dies that I altered myself on a hobby lathe. The base comes out cover with a smooth aluminum diaper that goes up the base band about .007". They shoot very, very well. If I told you, you would definitely not believe me. Buckshot is a real good machinist and could do this if he had a little instruction also. Once you see how its done and you had a lathe, you could do it yourself.

[StarMetal]

Bob,

I can see a freecheck application in certain instances, but not enough of them. I have never had a problem with using cast bullets in revolvers or pistols , soft or hard alloy. I've driven some of them pretty fast too. I've driven plain base 45 bullets out of my two 45 long colt rifles pretty hard, with zero leading.

I have a lathe but I don't think i'm going to do it to my sizers. If I did I could make the punches too, those are simple.

Joe

[felix]

Might be worth it for the more expensive gas checks from the vendors. 4 cents for a check is quite high, but not really when the gun is seldom shot at full power especially in a rifle. Checks aren't really needed in a pistol because alloy and speed can be more easily adjusted for a day's worth of fun. ... felix

[SharpsShooter]

Ok,

In that case, why not cut wads from pop cans at .462 dia. and simply place them between the powder and boolit. If the load density is 100% in a straight wall case, would it not work as a poor mans GC?

[45 2.1]

Ok,

In that case, why not cut wads from pop cans at .462 dia. and simply place them between the powder and boolit. If the load density is 100% in a straight wall case, would it not work as a poor mans GC?

If it doesn't seal the propellant gases behind the bullet, it would still gas cut the bullet and that happens up the sides of the bullet on the rear band. You can find gas cutting on some gas check bullets if they're undersize and hard. Dig up a bunch after you've shot them and find out. Most bullets bump up, so does the freecheck with the bullet. I don't put these on for fun, just for stuff I want to hunt with. If you haven't did it, then you really can't speak with much authority about it. For the velocity range of 1400 to 2000 fps, Freechecks pretty much beat gas check all over the place. Freechecks come into their own with plain base bullets. Yep, I also have them for gas checked bullets too. Besides, I want to spend my money on guns and components, not expensive gas checks.

[StarMetal]

Yeah long time ago in a gun rag they talked about cutting wads out of those clear plastic coffeecan lids placing directly under the base of the bullet, but like 45 2.1 says the problem is the gas getting up along the sides of the bullet. Bob is certainly right about how expensive gaschecks are thus why I'm making my own.

Bob how about somemore information on what you have to do to the sizing die and some pics of it. Also after you modify the die is it still good to use without the freecheck?

Joe

[45 2.1]

Yeah long time ago in a gun rag they talked about cutting wads out of those clear plastic coffeecan lids placing directly under the base of the bullet, (Those are called P-checks)
but like 45 2.1 says the problem is the gas getting up along the sides of the bullet. Bob is certainly right about how expensive gaschecks are thus why I'm making my own.

Bob how about somemore information on what you have to do to the sizing die and some pics of it. Also after you modify the die is it still good to use without the freecheck?

No digital camera Joe, but I can describe it. The sizer works fine either way, no change for you at all.

With a aluminum disc about 0.15" larger than your plain based bullet you cut a ledge about 0.03" deep across the top of the die to the diameter of the disc with little if any slop. polish it very well so your fingernail wont catch. Take a tapered punch and use 320 grit (with 600 grit to polish it out) aluminum oxide paper to taper the bore about 0.1" down or more. Its important to get enough room so the aluminum will bend onto the base of the bullet without tearing. If it tears, your going to fast or the taper is too small at the top. Polish and radius the edge between the flat and the bore very well or it will tear the check also. Make an alignment disc that fits down snugly in the die nut with a hole bored center for your bullet with about .002" clearance. Cut up a bunch of discs, shiny side up to cut and shiny side down in the sizing die ledge, put on alignment disc, put bullet thru hole then push firmly, size and lube. If you've done it right it turns out centered and smooth based with sides that are accordianed neatly into the base band.

[Springfield]

So if I understand this right, basically you are gaschecking a non-gas check bullet? Just so you don't have to buy factory gaschecks? Seems like a lot of work to save very little money. I like to fiddle with guns but I have better things to do with my time. Like fix old hammer guns that are too sloppy.

[SharpsShooter]

45 2.1,

Interesting stuff. I'm running PB 405gr FN at 1400fps with no accuracy problems. I've never been a GC fan. The cost is not the issue. It's just more interesting to me to run velocity/pressure tailored to the boolit design and alloy. My comment was simply to create a inverted GC upon firing that would seal against cutting.

[45 2.1]

You spend your money the way you want to and i'll spend mine the way I want to, but it seems you don't shoot much.

[45 2.1]

45 2.1,

Interesting stuff. I'm running PB 405gr FN at 1400fps with no accuracy problems. I've never been a GC fan. The cost is not the issue. It's just more interesting to me to run velocity/pressure tailored to the boolit design and alloy. My comment was simply to create a inverted GC upon firing that would seal against cutting.

When you get bored with that, you can try something else.Try it with a disc and see. A reversed gas check will do what you want also. I shoot alot softer alloy and get great expansion to. Won't make any difference to you with 45 cal. ,but my 45 cal bullets turn inside out into a cup with the old base at the bottom on the inside. What does yours do?

[StarMetal]

Actually it's not alot of work. The aluminum from a popcan is very easy to punch out a disk. In a matter of a few minutes you can punch out quite a few. They like Bob says you place in that recess you cut in die, put the bullet in and size. Hardly an extra step at all. Sure less work then putting a gascheck on because alot of times they fit either too tight or too loose. Too tight makes extra work getting them to fit.

Joe

[SharpsShooter]

The last deer I killed didn't say what it did, come to think of it, he didn't say anything, just fell over. FWIW you say you don't load these except for hunting. Hornady GC are $25 a 1000 if you gotta have em. 1000 shots at game. Thats a lifetime and more. Make no mistake, if you enjoy creating your own I say GREAT ENJOY.

[old goat]

...45 2.1
...Back to the original subject. What is the crimp to nose length?


...old goat

[SharpsShooter]

...45 2.1
...Back to the original subject. What is the crimp to nose length?


...old goat


I agree. This is a good design and I'd like to see it come to life.

:Fire:

[felix]

I guess when you really get down to it, it's not about money or time, but choice instead. Making lube, for example, is part of the hobby for some, but for others it is a chore. Making lube from scratch is definitely not any cheaper than buying ready made, but is more rewarding to us more researchy types. The same with making the checks, I'm sure. Cost should not be the motive! This is a hobby thingy. ... felix

[SharpsShooter]

Felix,

You state it well. The whole point is the totality of involvment that the individual seeks in this creative hobby. Some enjoy more than others, but the key is that all enjoy or at least get pleasantly frustrated enough to try all the various options available.

[Jumptrap]

I have question about the quasi-checks.

I wonder what a slug of leather would do under the bullet base? Something maybe 1/16" to 1/8" thick.

Now as for this homemade check idea.......I have more gaschecks on hand right now than I will probably ever shoot and if I wanted more, I'd gladly buy them as I ain't that damned cheap. HOWEVER, being the tinkerer, I'd love to be able to make my own..'just because'.

I acquired a set of Ted Smith .22 jacketed bullet swage dies years ago so I could make my own. I made a pile and they worked after a fashion..the spent .22 hulls are a poor jacket compared to a genuine bullet jacket like a J4. So, I quit making them but have the dies.........just so I can always have jacketed bullets. I read too damned many stories of how things disappeared during WW2.

[Buckshot]

..............In Paul Matthew's book, "The Paper Jacket" he was amazed at the accuracy of a 405gr PURE LEAD slug fired from his M95 Marlin 45-70 (M-G barrel) at 1800 fps.

If I'm not mistaken, didn't Jumptrap shoot a deer a couple years ago pretty much as above? Plain based, pure lead slug from a 45-70?

............Buckshot

[BruceB]

Yep, and I pushed about twenty gaschecked pure-lead RCBS 416-350s through my Ruger #1 in very short order, at 2000 fps. There was no visible leading in the bore, and the accuracy was pretty decent at 100 yards....2 to 3 inches for five rounds.

However, since the accuracy was not quite as good as my wheelweight-alloy bullets, it led me into the successful search for a cast softpoint (pure lead nose with wheelweight shank...with NO JOINT between the alloys.) Sure wish I'd been able to shoot something with the softpoint in Alberta, but that's hunting, and I tried.

[felix]

Bruce, have you tried paper patch for grins? Or, on the other hand, can the first shot always be counted upon at a hunnert? An experienced hunter like you should have no problem killing anything at a hunnert. There is no real reason to group a cannon like that except for extra confidence that you don't need anyway. ... felix

[castalott]

Hi Bob!

I was just wondering...have you ever expanded the freecheck idea into a 1/2 or 3/4 jacket? I don't need 1000's of these either....But a dead soft 'bullet ' with a 3/4 jacket at any reasonable velocity would be just fine for some vermin around here....

Yes, I can afford jacketed bullets....But it will be much more rewarding to do it my way.....

[45 2.1]

I was just wondering...have you ever expanded the freecheck idea into a 1/2 or 3/4 jacket? I don't need 1000's of these either....But a dead soft 'bullet ' with a 3/4 jacket at any reasonable velocity would be just fine for some vermin around here....

Dale, that won't work, the sides accordian into the bullet. The short freecheck on the sides works fine without any problems for what you want to do.

Yes, I can afford jacketed bullets....But it will be much more rewarding to do it my way.....

It would be nice if they could see that to.

The nose to crimp is 0.46", I may shorten it slightly to allow for the Marlins.

[BruceB]

[QUOTE=felix]Bruce, have you tried paper patch for grins? Or, on the other hand, can the first shot always be counted upon at a hunnert?

Felix, good morning.

I did try a few paper-patched 416-350s, but with the as-cast diameter this boolit has, I suspect the paper was not doing its job. Due to the tightness of the neck fit, only one ply of paper could be seated into the case. This single thickness of (gummed) paper also restricts its ability to "insulate" the bullet from bore contact. In addition, I'm not really conversant with much in the way of paper-patching, at least so far.

I do enjoy getting my larger-bore rifles to group, although there's a certain amount of punishment to be absorbed when running them at "hunting" velocity. When I did the final zero on the .416 Rigby before leaving for Alberta last month, the normal 3-shot 100-yard group with the cast softpoints typically had two rounds cutting into the same hole with the third one maybe an inch out, making the average 3-shotter about 1.25-1.5" Not bad at all!. These were 365-grain boolits running at 2100 fps, zeroed 2.5" high at 100 yards, and fired with a fixed-4x scope. I was quite confident in my ability to make a vital-zone hit at 200 yards on a deer-size target, which is a lot smaller than the elk I'd hoped to kill with it. I did extensive field-position practice on smallish gongs out to 200 yards, and that rifle was READY. Too bad no critters walked out in front of it, as I carried the .416 after killing my deer with the .338/225 TSX.

To reduce the wear and tear on my old bod, I'm still planning to build a removeable standing benchrest for attachment to the outside of Der Schuetzenwagen as needed. Firing a MAX load in the Rigby or .404 Jeffery from the van's inside benchrest is nasty indeed....a very few rounds, and I feel something like a mild concussion...wooziness, vision goes weird, etc...120 grains of powder touched-off in a confined space can do that!

Most of my "fun" loads for these .40-plus rifles are in the 1800-fps range, which still allows them to be shot like 'real rifles', with some reaching-out ability, without pounding the daylights out of the shooter.

[45 2.1]

Looks like this:

[PatMarlin]

OK- I see now!

[Nrut]

Actually 45 2.1.... I bet most of us in this forum are interested in the sizing die freeck concept...I have quite a few plain base molds that I would like to push faster with acww or softer alloy....esp. the LEE 38-55 bullet and the .454-275gr Willbird just ordered....would love to shot that at 1700fps+ in my Low Wall or 92 in .45 Colt..@ around 9 BHN......No lathe here so I'll have to wait till someone offer's these modifications to sizing dies.....be handy if Stillwell did it....anyway thanks for the info ........cheers mic

[StarMetal]

45 2.1

Bob, actually wouldn't the die retaining nut be between those two pieces?

Joe

[MGySgt]

I would also like to take advantage of the 'Free Check' process, but no lath - and no machine shops close by (that I am aware of) that I could get to do it. So until someone offeres it commerially - I will just have to want!

[45 2.1]

45 2.1

Bob, actually wouldn't the die retaining nut be between those two pieces?

Joe

To the side Joe. The center is pretty well correct, i've done it several ways and usually don't use the disc to center the larger ones.

As for you other people that don't have a lathe and want freechecks, I would do some on a limited basis. You would have to supply the punch with your die and about 20 sample bullets. Cost depends on complexity. PM me and we'll talk about it.

[grumble]

I'm also in the "no lathe" camp. If I do get one, I also want to be able to contour and thread rifle barrels, so the cost immediately goes up to about $5k for a low end lathe from Harbor Freight. I've never heard of or seen a used one available hereabouts, so it looks like I'll just keep wanting one.

Hmmm. Wonder if I could make $5,000.00 worth of freechecks...

[Willbird]

Will that idea work with a lee push thru sizer if you used a nose punch in the ram ?

[StarMetal]

Willbird,

It probably would if the die was modified, but being it would be upside down would pose the problem. That centering die just sets atop the sizing die in the Lyman/RCBS lubersizers and the aluminum also just sets in the apparatus, so that is were the difficulty would come from in converting a Lee push through.

Joe

[PatMarlin]

Look to the used market for lathes, cause there's a lot more lathes out there then machinist who know how to use them these days, and good quality brands too.

I bought one of the 3 in 1 Lathes from Harbor Cheapo Freight when it was on sale for $399. It has introduced me to metal turning for not much money, and is been darn useful.

I don't know how acurate it is, or how to check the acuracy, but I've turned parts for my boat outdrive, repaired my Lyman 45's, and many other items so even a cheapo has a use till it fails. Some of the chinese junk I've obtained will not die, or doesn't know it should have by now.... :mrgreen:

[Buckshot]

..............For gun barrel work you're looking for a minimum of a 1-3/8" spindle bore, which will also allow you to use the full range of 5C collets, which is a max of 1-1/8". Bed length would be 36" from a center in the spindle nose to the tailstock center. SOme American Lathes smaller then that had the 1-3/8 spindle bore. My 11" Logan does and the South Bend heavy 10's did.

So what you're looking for in a new import lathe is a 12x36. You have to check the specs as some import 12" swings don't have but a 1 or 1-1/8" spindle bore. You can get a suitable import lathe that meets the requirements and on a cabinet stand for about $2600, minimum.

Used American iron is pretty common in the former manufacturing areas of the northeast, and some of the gulf states due to the oil industry and it's support structure. Heck, the NE is afloat in the stuff and they can't get people to haul big ole shapers and horizontal mills to the scrap yard. Lathes still move.

So. Calif still has quite a bit due to oil, areospace, aviation. and old defense contractors. The problem with used stuff is HOW it was cared for. Some is just slap wore out and would cost a ton to fix back up. I wouldn't buy used unless I could see it or defintely trusted the person selling it, as I did on the 11" Logan I bought.

..............Buckshot

[grumble]

Good info, Buckshot, and muchly appreciated! I know more about moonrocks than I do lathes, and I've never even seen a moonrock up close. <G> I have the desire to learn, but kinda short on budget and proximity. Hell, I don't even know how to center a piece, much less the terminology for the lathe parts.

The hardware store has a pipe cutter/threader that seems to me to be just the ticket for a lathe. It has a hole through the spindle with locking lugs to grab a pipe of just about any diameter and of any length. I always thought that would be a good feature in a lathe so all the swing and bed length numbers wouldn't matter so much. This is the definitive opinion of someone with no clue as to what he's talking about. <GGG>

[floodgate]

[QUOTE=grumble]Good info, Buckshot, and muchly appreciated! I know more about moonrocks than I do lathes, and I've never even seen a moonrock up close. <G> I have the desire to learn, but kinda short on budget and proximity. Hell, I don't even know how to center a piece, much less the terminology for the lathe parts.

The hardware store has a pipe cutter/threader that seems to me to be just the ticket for a lathe. It has a hole through the spindle with locking lugs to grab a pipe of just about any diameter and of any length. I always thought that would be a good feature in a lathe so all the swing and bed length numbers wouldn't matter so much. This is the definitive

Grumble:

You're on the right track! A lathe with a 1-3/8" hole through the headstock and a 3-jaw scroll chuck will do just that, but a lot more precisely. My ratty old "Smithy" AT-300 12" x 20" has only 1-1/16", but does a lot of work for me, and I keep about 3 feet clear to the left of the lathe for long parts. Actually, for under $500 you can get a fair start, with one of those little 7" x 12" or 14" variable-speed mini-lathes from Harbor Freight, Grizzly, Micro-Mark, etc. and even after you upgrade, it'll always be useful for pins, sizing dies, etc. Figure to spend another $250 - 400 for materials, tooling, etc, over the next year as you find you need it.

But FIRST, go to Lindsay Publications at <www.lindsaybks.com> and spend $7.50 or so for their reprint of South Bend's 1942 manual, "How to Run a Lathe" - written for novice machinists recruited for WW II production, it is the best introduction I know of to the topic, short of actual apprecticeship. Even if you don't go for a lathe of your own, it'll help you to translate Buckshot's posts.

Floodgate

[grumble]

" Even if you don't go for a lathe of your own, it'll help you to translate Buckshot's posts."

HA!! You sure got that right!! When I read about Buckshot's shopwork, I know it's something I want/need to know, but he might as well be speaking Greek!

That is one cool book site! They didn't have the South Bend book you recommended listed, but I ordered their catalog, so maybe I can get moving in the right direction instead of just wishing I knew something about machine work.

Do other brands of lathes have the hole in the spindle like your Smithy? I've never seen a lathe with that feature, but it sure sounds handy.

Many thanks for the info!

[StarMetal]

I believe Buckshot may be Greek. HEY...Buckshot...what nationality are you pardner?

Joe

[StarMetal]

Grumble

Try this website for your book

http://www.lindsaybks.com/bks/lathebk/

Joe

[grumble]

Outstanding, Joe! Thanks!

The book is on order. Not being able to help myself, so are a half dozen other books. Buckshot might be the Greek, but I guess I'm the geek! <GGG>

[SharpsShooter]

I guess this is what you could label as a widely diversified thread. First, a feeler for a good boolit design. Second, freechecks and everything you need to know about that item. Third, on to the various lathes and their respective merits. And last of all, the books to get started using item three to make item two. All are useful items and merit discussion, but we have really wandered off the end of the earth.

Do you suppose we can come full circle and return to the actual boolit? The design looks very good to me and I'd like it to happen.

[floodgate]

Grumble:

"Do other brands of lathes have the hole in the spindle like your Smithy? I've never seen a lathe with that feature, but it sure sounds handy."

Most wood lathes do not have hollow spindles, but nearly all metal lathes do. But in the 6" - 9" swing range, most of them are 9/16" or 5/8". It isn't until you get into the 10" and up range that you see the larger bores. The "collets" Buckshot mentions are slotted cylinders, very precisely machined, that are compressed into a tapered sleeve to hold a cylindrical piece of stock very tightly and precisely centered. The 5-C size runs 1/16" through 1/1/4" or so in 1/64" increments, and are available as imports for $5-$6 each instead of the $20 or so "big-name" ones go for, or other, less popular sizes. (They also come with square and hexagonal bores for specialty work.) The large hole through the spindle lets you use these. You'll be ready for this kind of stuff after a year or two with a smaller "starter" lathe. The South Bend book goes into all of this, very clearly - see collets and collet chucks on pp. 57 - 58.

Joe's got it right. Lindsay's website has a lot more books than his catalogs, but the catalogs are a real hoot!

Do you feel like we're pressuring you?

Floodgate

[Buckshot]

I guess this is what you could label as a widely diversified thread. First, a feeler for a good boolit design. Second, freechecks and everything you need to know about that item. Third, on to the various lathes and their respective merits. And last of all, the books to get started using item three to make item two. All are useful items and merit discussion, but we have really wandered off the end of the earth.

Do you suppose we can come full circle and return to the actual boolit? The design looks very good to me and I'd like it to happen.

Yeah they do have a tendancy to take on a life of their own sometimes. Like a bunch of guys leaning around the bed of a pickup with a icechest full of beer in the middle. They start talking about the best way to hang a door and 10 minutes later the merits of waterglass vs course ground pepper for stopping leaks in radiators is the topic.

Re: The boolit. I like it plain based just the way it is. I know for a fact you can easily get a 45 cal PB rifle slug up to 1600 fps with no accuracy issues, and that's plenty of whoop-ass at iron sight distances with a 400gr slug.

................Buckshot

[old goat]

...45 2.1 said he was thinking about making a change to the crimp to nose length, to make the bullet useable in the Marlins. That would be better for a group buy as some Marlin owners would want to be included. Other than this, I would not want to see any changes.
...As for a plain base, that would be what I would want.


...old goat

[grumble]

"Do you feel like we're pressuring you?"

What, me worry? -- Alfred E. Newman

The firehose is on full blast, and I'm still trying to take a sip. <G>

Properly chastened, though, I'm in for the boolit. Who's honcho?

[gregg]

I like the bullet .... I like the posting ... We are going to wait till next year right? I'm in anyway..

OBTW I think you will find Browning chambers shorter than marlins by a long
shot. I know for a fact Cor-bon had trouble this in there 45-70 stuff. Just
a thought.

[45 2.1]

I like the bullet .... I like the posting ... We are going to wait till next year right? I'm in anyway..

OBTW I think you will find Browning chambers shorter than marlins by a long
shot. I know for a fact Cor-bon had trouble this in there 45-70 stuff. Just
a thought.

I have three Brownings, chambers aren't a problem. The O.A.L. is a problem with Marlin 1895s though.

[slughammer]

Looks like this:

Thanks, I thought I understood the description, but now that I see the dwg I have one question.

If the thick line between the alignment disk and the modified die is the aluminum disk sitting in the counterbore on the die; then what is the counterbore in the alignment disk used for?

Regards - Slughammer

[StarMetal]

I believe that counterbore in the alignment disk is so that the nose punch can get low as possible since the counterbore disk actually raises the height of the sizing die. If you've used these type of luber/sizers alot you will know that there are some bullets that need to be seated very deep in the sizer to get lube in their grooves. In some instances I've had the nose punch down against the top of the sizer die.

Joe

[45 2.1]

Thanks, I thought I understood the description, but now that I see the dwg I have one question.

If the thick line between the alignment disk and the modified die is the aluminum disk sitting in the counterbore on the die; then what is the counterbore in the alignment disk used for?

Regards - Slughammer

The large ring on the top punch, sometimes you need to get the bullet farther into the die to get it lubed and the top punch hits the alignment disc, so the counterbore.

[slughammer]

Thank you both, I've been making my nose punches without the extra shoulder that the store bought ones have. I kind of forgot the shoulder was there.

If you are using .004 thick soda cans for plainbase, what type and thickness of material are you using for designs with gas check shanks?

[Buckshot]

............Joe to answer your question from earlier: Swede on my dad's side and Dutch on my Mom's (Van Leuven).

We could lke go over to the "Special Projects" forum and talk lathes and machine stuff. It's absolutely fascinating to me. Besides we do have a couple real professional machinists here, and several who have been at it personally a WHOLE lot longer then my year and a half :D

.............Buckshot

[45 2.1]

Thank you both, I've been making my nose punches without the extra shoulder that the store bought ones have. I kind of forgot the shoulder was there.

If you are using .004 thick soda cans for plainbase, what type and thickness of material are you using for designs with gas check shanks?

This type won't do the gas check type Freecheck properly, those need to be preformed much like a normal gascheck. You use two to three thicknesses with those. What you could do though is make a top punch that was shaped and sized like the bullet shank and cup three thicknesses in the die and eject it. That would make an aluminum Freecheck like the sets put out by Ed Wosika.

[StarMetal]

Slug,

It's better to just buy the right thickness material for the gascheck shank type.

Joe

[HTRN]

Joe's got it right. Lindsay's website has a lot more books than his catalogs, but the catalogs are a real hoot!

Did you see the new one? Lindsay has an interesting "theory" for winning the indy 500 with a bull :veryconfu


HTRN