Alignment problem

[Candjur]

I just got a 147 grain NG mold from MP-Molds.
It ..or I.. seem to have an alignment problem, making boolits uneven.
194197

The back pin have become a bit submerged, and I wonder if that is the culprit - or there perhaps is multiple things I am unaware of, being new to casting. I have two lee molds that doesn't have problems.
194196

I don't hit the mold, or abuse it. It has cast boolits like this from the start.

Is it possible to punch the pin back out to align without damage to the mold?
Is it thightning of sprue plate - or other things?

Thanks in advance for your two cents on this. :)

[Whitespider]

I have no experience with MP Molds, but I'll tell you how I adjust the pins on iron molds such as Lyman.


Strip the mold halves down to bare blocks and clean the mold faces spotless.
Hold the halves together, one in each hand, and "twist" them back and forth, feeling and looking for any movement. If you don't detect any movement there's likely no adjustment necessary... and I recommend no adjustment.
If you detect movement you should also (normally) be able to detect which pin is the culprit (or which needs the most adjustment). Support the block face down in some way to prevent damage, a bench block is ideal but a leather covered piece of wood with a small hole drilled in it will work.
Using a punch and small hammer lightly tap the offending pin towards the face... it don't take much, work slow and be careful. On most "new" molds the pins will move pretty easily, older molds may require a bit more aggression (especially iron molds that may have gotten rusty). Keep checking the fit; only move the pin just far enough to remove the movement and no further (keep in mind the other pin may need a little adjustment). If you go too far it may cause other issues such as excessive wear, difficulty opening/closing, or even incomplete closing.
When you think you've got it, make sure the faces are spotlessly clean again, hold them together in front of a good light and check to make sure no light is passing between the blocks from any angle.

Done.
*

[runfiverun]

it's hard to see from the picture.
but I think your describing two halves of a mold not quite joining up to make a round boolit.

you can check this by closing the mold and looking at the top of the mold.
gently run a sharp edge [X-acto blade or pocket knife] in the cavity's against the seams from both directions.
you will feel if the edges are not lining up.

to fix it you do need to move the pins.
if you tap the front one out it should pull the right side of the mold forward.
and the rear one should move the right side rearward.

if the pins are driven in from the left side of the mold then reverse the directions for the left side of the mold.

be aware you might have to knock the other pin in a titch to keep things from binding and allow the mold to close all the way.

[Candjur]

it's hard to see from the picture.
but I think your describing two halves of a mold not quite joining up to make a round boolit.

you can check this by closing the mold and looking at the top of the mold.
gently run a sharp edge [X-acto blade or pocket knife] in the cavity's against the seams from both directions.
you will feel if the edges are not lining up.

to fix it you do need to move the pins.
if you tap the front one out it should pull the right side of the mold forward.
and the rear one should move the right side rearward.

if the pins are driven in from the left side of the mold then reverse the directions for the left side of the mold.

be aware you might have to knock the other pin in a titch to keep things from binding and allow the mold to close all the way.

Thanks for input, good tool for checking. It was the pin -



I have no experience with MP Molds, but I'll tell you how I adjust the pins on iron molds such as Lyman.


Strip the mold halves down to bare blocks and clean the mold faces spotless.
Hold the halves together, one in each hand, and "twist" them back and forth, feeling and looking for any movement. If you don't detect any movement there's likely no adjustment necessary... and I recommend no adjustment.
If you detect movement you should also (normally) be able to detect which pin is the culprit (or which needs the most adjustment). Support the block face down in some way to prevent damage, a bench block is ideal but a leather covered piece of wood with a small hole drilled in it will work.
Using a punch and small hammer lightly tap the offending pin towards the face... it don't take much, work slow and be careful. On most "new" molds the pins will move pretty easily, older molds may require a bit more aggression (especially iron molds that may have gotten rusty). Keep checking the fit; only move the pin just far enough to remove the movement and no further (keep in mind the other pin may need a little adjustment). If you go too far it may cause other issues such as excessive wear, difficulty opening/closing, or even incomplete closing.
When you think you've got it, make sure the faces are spotlessly clean again, hold them together in front of a good light and check to make sure no light is passing between the blocks from any angle.

Done.
*

Thank you so much for your time sir. This has been a great help. I can confirm that it's the alignment pin thats off.
MP-molds is sending a replacement, as it require special tooling to correct. It's impossible with a punch and hammer.

Thanks

[243winxb]

I can see the problem now. Good you getting a replacement.

[44man]

I make my own molds and fit pins with blocks together. Things to do for by yourself. Super mold makers must hate to replace stupid. That pin can be adjusted with a punch. Special tooling???? A stinking hammer must be special. Sorry, I feel for our mold makers that do the best they can. But there are always some that say 2X2 equals 5. Cost is based on fixing what stupid sends back. Everything would be cheaper if you could think.

[runfiverun]

Jim they are press fit with an anvil.
when we done the HM-2 molds I had them change how they were doing their Pins.
they were going straight into the aluminum mold block so I had them add steel inserts with variegations on the outside of the inserts to keep them from moving when the mold was hot.

MP uses a similar insert and if you force them improperly you could tear a chunk out of the corner of the mold.
I have moved the pins in a mold that is exactly like this one.
I heated the mold and forced the blocks together a little at a time.

[Candjur]

I make my own molds and fit pins with blocks together. Things to do for by yourself. Super mold makers must hate to replace stupid. That pin can be adjusted with a punch. Special tooling???? A stinking hammer must be special. Sorry, I feel for our mold makers that do the best they can. But there are always some that say 2X2 equals 5. Cost is based on fixing what stupid sends back. Everything would be cheaper if you could think.

I did not demand a replacement, it was promptly expedited upon confirmation of pin error. I would like to fix this myself, but as you see, there is a reason MP ships a replacement immediately. But thanks for implying stupid for a beginner, that tries to do it right.

I know you had a valid point, I am just terrified to damage the mold, void any warranty, because of the lack of experience.

[44man]

Jim they are press fit with an anvil.
when we done the HM-2 molds I had them change how they were doing their Pins.
they were going straight into the aluminum mold block so I had them add steel inserts with variegations on the outside of the inserts to keep them from moving when the mold was hot.

MP uses a similar insert and if you force them improperly you could tear a chunk out of the corner of the mold.
I have moved the pins in a mold that is exactly like this one.
I heated the mold and forced the blocks together a little at a time.
Pins are always a problem. Some move, can't be helped. Darn, I have set screws unwind to drop half a mold into my water bucket. Things move. Not the mold makers fault. You must learn by yourself. I am sorry but a mold is so easy.

[44magLeo]

Once you get the replacement, experiment with the old one to see if you can fix it.What you learn will be a help next time.Leo

[Oklahoma Rebel]

so we are calling newbies with legit problems stupid now? I think he did the right thing, he listened to what the manufacturer wanted, and also avoided voiding his warranty and ending up empty handed, maybe not "handy" but certainly far from stupid. good luck with your new mold O.P.