Looking for advice/recommendations for revolvers

[BlackIce05]

I'm about as unfamiliar as possible with revolvers. In fact, in my entire life I've shot 2 of them. One was my sons Heritage arms .22LR, and then just today I shot my Mom's Ruger New Model Blackhawk .357. That one confirmed my suspicions and made me see the light that I must have at least one revolver in my collection, although I get the feeling it's going to be the first of many. So anyway, I'm hoping some of you that have extensive knowledge and experience with wheelguns can point me in the right direction. So far I'm thinking I want something in .357 magnum since I already have some brass for it, and one of my 9mm molds casts at .359 before PC. Something in 45 may not be too far out of line either since I cast for 45acp too, but with the brass and everything, .357 just makes more sense to me. I think I would like DA/SA because I like options, and I'm somewhat used to that anyway, my go to semi auto is a sig 227, which is DA/SA. Anyway, that's as far as I know. I would greatly appreciate any advice, or what you have and why it's better than others, or whatever help you can provide.

[tbceja]

Right makes convertible revolvers 357/9mm and 45lc/45acp but they are single action . The plus is you can use ammo you already load.

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[tazman]

For 357-----S&W 686 or Ruger GP100 Take your pick.
I personally prefer the Smith.

[tbceja]

Ruger sorry didn't read before I sent.

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[CDRGlock]

For 357 Magnum, you have a wide variety depending upon the size of your hands and the desire for a high capacity.

Medium Frame
S&W 686 6 or 7 shot
S&W 586 6 or 7 shot
Ruger GP100
Dan Wesson

Large frame
S&W 627 8 shot
Ruger Redhawk

I personally prefer the Smith and Wesson because of the smooth action. A lot more aftermarket options for a Smith when it comes to holsters and grips. Ruger is built like a tank. Rugged and reliable. You can't go wrong with either.

I have the following :

S&W 627 Performance Center 8 shot with 5 inch barrel
S&W 586 L-Comp Performance Center 7 shot with 3" barrel
S&W 640 J frame Snubby
Ruger GP100 4" and 6"



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[Mk42gunner]

It is very hard to beat a 4" DA .357 for general usage; after all the smoke cleared the one I kept is a 4" GP-100. It works better for me than the L frame S&W's.

For a range toy or hunting, a 6" is a tiny amount better, but I think the handiness of the 4" adds enough to give it the win.

Robert

[str8wal]

My first 357 was and still is a 6" Ruger GP-100. Unless concealement is a concern I'd suggest the same, otherwise a 4" version of the same gun.

[RJM52]

Another vote for the Ruger GP-100 if you want to go .357/.38 Special... That said S&W makes a very nice 9mm that I have been looking at....the 986...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6TxdRTgRds

Bob

[sharps4590]

As others have said my preference for a DA revolver is a S&W. That said there ain't no fly's on the Ruger or the Colts except that Colt prices have headed for the stratosphere. For your first I agree, a .357 is an excellent choice, it's never wrong. Not my choice today and I don't even own a 38/357 but it's darn sure where I started 40+ years ago. 4 or 6 inch is a matter of taste and convenience. 4 inch is my choice in a DA revolver and 5 1/2 in. in a SA revolver.

I expect you're correct in that you won't own just one.

[JSH]

I have come to like the GP100. A good "massage" by experienced hands goes a long way. Folks will say the GP can't be made as smooth as a SW. I have two that are so close to a SW it is not worth arguing over.
I have exactly one SW, a 19 that I have shot a bunch.
Las far as the GP's I have four, yes I like them.
Jeff

[charlie b]

I have only owned a few revolvers. Taurus, Ruger and the Colt Python handed down to me. The only one I still have is the Python (4" blued).

The Taurus pistols were surprisingly nice. Very smooth triggers. I would add that brand to your list, BUT, try one before you buy it. Their quality control seems to be inconsistent. Some would say the same about Ruger as well but both of mine were very good out of the box. The GP100's are a great gun.

My Python is a thing of beauty and came out of the original Colt custom shop. But, I would not advise getting one just due to the cost and regular tuning needed. If you can find an older Colt Trooper III or V, I'd get one of those, but, I like the older Colt's. :)

[BlackIce05]

I forgot to mention that it will definitely be mostly used for general purpose, killing targets, water bottles, occasional opossum or raccoons, etc., I would like to be able to use it for hunting, but that's not a deal breaker, MO recently added handguns to the list of approved weapons for what used to be called muzzleloader deer season, now they've changed the name to "alternative methods season". I don't care much about concealing it, because I figure that would take a different gun (or at least that's what I'll tell the wife). I'm unsure of what I want for barrel length, I think that New Model that I shot was 6 inch. Even with .357 shells I was surprised by the lack of recoil. I don't know if that was due to the length of the barrel adding weight or what.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

You cant go wrong with a S&W 686 or a Ruger GP 100 but i would give the nod to a 686-3

I know you said 357 but as long as you just looking right now maybe give a 41 magnum some thought would be a better woods walking / hunting
you reload and cast so why not have one :D

[Virginia John]

If at all possible shoot one before you buy it. You may not be able to shoot the one at the LGS but find someone who has one just like the one you want to buy and see if they will let you shoot theirs. I have bought a few guns that if I had shot them first, I certainly would not have bought them. Of course, you can always turn abound and sell or trade them but if you can try them first you may save yourself a lot of disappointment.

[CDRGlock]

I forgot to mention that it will definitely be mostly used for general purpose, killing targets, water bottles, occasional opossum or raccoons, etc., I would like to be able to use it for hunting, but that's not a deal breaker, MO recently added handguns to the list of approved weapons for what used to be called muzzleloader deer season, now they've changed the name to "alternative methods season". I don't care much about concealing it, because I figure that would take a different gun (or at least that's what I'll tell the wife). I'm unsure of what I want for barrel length, I think that New Model that I shot was 6 inch. Even with .357 shells I was surprised by the lack of recoil. I don't know if that was due to the length of the barrel adding weight or what.

I prefer 5-6" personally for those purposes. Anything longer becomes a bit ornery to control, unless we are talking 44 Magnum and above. In that case, the longer the better for the sake of maximum velocity.


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[Sasquatch-1]

All my revolvers, except my cap and ball Pietta, are Smiths and Rugers. For a first revolver, if you are not worried about speed of reloading (it's a gate loader), I would suggest the Ruger Blackhawk .357/9mm convertible. It comes with a 9mm cylinder that does not need moon clips. Only disadvantage is that properly sized 9mm (at .356) tend to tumble at 15 yards from the one I have. If you reload and size the bullets at .358 or .359 you should have no problems.

[contender1]

Well, you have asked a lot in just a few lines.

First & foremost,,, I'm an instructor. So, I always tell everybody to find what fits THEM!!!!!!!! It has to fit their hands, (often a set of grips makes all the difference in the world here,) AND it has to fit the desires of their own personal uses.

Buy a quality name brand. Ruger, Colt, S&W, etc will always be a good purchase. Even if it needs a little tweaking.
Next, select the style you prefer,,, DA (double action,) or SA, (Single-action,) for your desires.

Calibers.
Since you mentioned you will likely get more than one,, start with a .22LR. Very versatile, and most folks end up with one somewhere anyway. And, then look at the potentials of the different calibers you enjoy. You have mentioned owning a 9mm already,,, then if the SA design is your thing,, a Ruger Blackhawk convertible in .9mm/357 mag will do a lot. In that gun, you can shoot .9mm, 38 spl, and 357 magnums. If hunting is an option, study your state laws concerning caliber AND bbl length restrictions before your purchase.
The 357 mag revolver is a very versatile gun in the wide selection of ammo, AND capability.
But,,, if your desires lean toward serious hunting for larger game, Deer, hogs, bear,,, I'd look at the versatile 45 Colt for an additional caliber. Many folks can & do use a 357 very successfully for these animals,,, but for the average person, having a bit "more" can be very beneficial.
And don't overlook the .41 mag, as it too is a very good caliber. The folks who prefer the 41 mag over others have found a manageable caliber over the heavier 44 mag, w/o sacrificing much.
The 44 mag is a solid all around big bore caliber. Mild to wild,,, it'll do a lot. Again, you have to figure out what works for YOU!!!!!!!

So, study your desires, and you will see that more than one will be needed in the long run of uses.

Lastly,, get a KNOWLEDGEABLE instructor to help you learn HOW to PROPERLY shoot a bigger caliber revolver.

[BlackIce05]

Great advice so far, and I appreciate all of it, one thing I'm not understanding is the .357/9mm convertible. Wouldn't that send 2 different sized projectiles down the same barrel? Seems to me that it either has to be loose for one or tight for the other which I would expect to cause something like the tumbling mentioned above. I know I'm asking a lot, but I also know what people here are capable of. I agree completely that the best way to go about this is get my hands on as many different revolvers as possible to figure out what fits me the best. But, I'm an OTR truck driver which unfortunately has severely limited my time for friends. I have a few, but they're all more interested in AR's and AK's, none own a single revolver. I've shot both of the 2 that I have access to and both are fun, and comfortable. There are a couple LGS within an hour of me, but I won't even go in to them any more. Just not the kind of people I'm willing to give my money to. Which leaves me with buying either from someone on here, or buds or something similar. I can occasionally get into a cabela's so that might be an option. I just figured that if it doesn't fit perfectly I could always change grips, or maybe I'm over simplifying that? I guess basically I'm just trying to figure out what would be simple yet reliable and reasonably priced. Speed of loading doesn't matter to me, I'm in no rush to do much of anything (which is why I still only have a single stage press). Lastly I apologize, apparently I'm unable to type on here without typing a full paragraph.

[BlackIce05]

Something else to throw in, would it be better to start out with a new or used gun, or would it really matter? I would assume new would be better chance of being in perfect condition mechanically since I'm not familiar enough to know what to watch for as far as wear and tear, but with all the threads I've read about various companies lacking in QC, and the fact that I trust most of the people on here, I'm not sure if that still holds up. I'll look into that 41 magnum. My only real reasons for preferring 357 were the expected wide availability, and only thing I'd need to buy would be dies.

[Petrol & Powder]

WOW, you're going to get a shopping list !!!


I'm a dedicated revolver guy and have been for many years. I'll toss in my $0.02.

A 4" DA 38/357 revolver is one of the best firearm tools you'll ever find. It is incredibly useful and fills many roles.
In that realm the two obvious candidates are the S&W L-frames (686) and the Ruger GP-100. A LOT of ink (electrons ??) has flowed in the debate about which is better and I'm not going down that path. They're both great guns.
In my eyes, the 6" barreled revolver is a target gun or a hunting gun. A 4" barrel is a good compromise and a better "all-around" gun, IMO.

The revolver world is a big place and there's a lot to learn. In the interest of full disclosure I'll openly say that I'm a DA revolver guy. There's nothing wrong with SA revolvers and I own a few, but I've always found the DA revolvers to suit me better.
In the DA revolver world the two big competitors are S&W and Ruger. Within those two camps there's a lot of info to absorb. Frame sizes, finish, sights, etc. are just the surface.

Outside of S&W and Ruger you will find the other makers such as Colt, Dan Wesson, Taurus, etc.
With the exception of the new Colt Cobra, which is a subnose, Colt is pretty much out of the DA revolver game. The older Colts such as Pythons, Troopers, are out there but it's a complicated (and expensive) market and you should educate yourself before entering that field. A lack of knowledge will be financially risky if you start buying Colts without a solid base of knowledge.

The used revolver market has a lot to offer and there are some great deals to be found. However, one must have some basic knowledge about revolvers in order to be an informed consumer. Again, knowledge is key.

[RJM52]

The .357/.38 run bullets that are .357/8, the 9mm .355/6.... The Ruger BH has two different cylinders, one for .357/.38 and the other for 9mm...

I have three S&W revolvers, a 66-2, a 60-10 and a 649-1 all of which have had the chambers modified so they will also run .38 Super and 9mm via moon clips... So the 66 and 60 will run .357 Magnum, .38 Special, 9x19 and .38 Super. The 649 will not run .357s..

The 2 thousands makes no difference...

Bob

[bob208]

I have a ruger security-six 4 inch barrel in stainless steel. it was made 1976. I have shot it and carried it or years still have it. if it came down to a survival situation where it had to work and no spare parts. I would pick it up without a second thought.

a 357 is a good choice you can use full house loads for hunting. you can use any .38 spl. loads from the hottest to the mildest.

[BlackIce05]

Ok, so I think from what I've read elsewhere and what you guys have said so far, the .357 sounds like a solid does just about anything choice. Which is what I was hoping for for the first one. That 41 sounds interesting too, lol I haven't even bought the first and am already planning a second in 41 magnum. I kinda figured that's how this would go. My wife keeps asking how many guns I need. I just tell her I'll let her know when I figure that out. So anyway, sounds like .357 in a 4-6 inch barrel, and DA. So far most seem to suggest the 686 or GP100, looking at the 2 of them so far nothing jumps out to me to pick one over the other. Also a couple mentioned Taurus, which I was curious about. I know some say stay away, others love them. I've read where they had significant issues in the past but are supposedly showing marked improvement? Are they worth considering simply because they're significantly cheaper? Or should I just steer clear of those and stick with either the 686 and GP100?

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I would stick with S&W and or Ruger .

[Ithaca Gunner]

All sound advice above, just don't pass up a good used Ruger Security Six, S&W M-28, (Highway Patrolman) or a Colt Trooper at a decent price. They were all made stronger than need be and can provide a new owner with a life long package of accuracy and dependability.

[Kraschenbirn]

You might try checking around for police trade-ins. They may show some holster wear but most have been shot (comparatively) very little. A couple years back, a local shop here latched onto a dozen 4" S&W 65s...K-frame, .38/.357, fixed sights...from a small department upgrading to semi-autos and put a couple in the counter display tagged at $275 each. Whole batch was gone within 10 days...and I've often regretted not snagging, at least, one more than the one I've got.

Bill

[CDRGlock]

I have two Taurus revolvers. 605 and a Tracker 922. Not bad but the S&W and Ruger are well above it in quality.

Resale for Taurus sucks, too.


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[rintinglen]

When the time comes, notice how difficult the 41 is to find on the shelf, compared to say a 44 magnum.

The care and feeding of odd ball cartridges is something that needs to be considered when contemplating a purchase--four years from now when the next panic hits town, the oddities tend to disappear quickly and come back very slowly. I shoot a .303 Savage, a .348 Winchester, a Star 9 mm Largo and a hand full of others that aren't on the front burner of any manufacturer, and I know where of I speak. It took me three months after the purchase of my Browning 32-20 to find any brass or ammo back in 09, thanks, President Obama.

Things are better right now, but if you take the road less traveled, be prepared to stock up whenever you can, as much as you can.

[Petrol & Powder]

BlackIce05 - Lots of good advice here.

Taurus - My experience with Taurus can be summed up by saying sometimes you get a good one and sometimes you don't. I've had good and bad Taurus revolvers and I know others with similar experiences. I no longer wish to play in that sandbox and just gave up on Taurus. I'm sure you can find people that say they are good guns and they're probably telling the truth about their particular Taurus. I will say the Taurus Model 85 seems to be the exception. Most of the Model 85's I've run across seem to be decent guns.

rintinglen's advice about odd ball cartridges is good advice. The feeding of your revolver can be expensive, even if you reload. The 41 mag is a good cartridge but it tends to run on the expensive side and can be difficult to find.

As for police trade in guns, the revolver portion of that market has pretty much dried up. While police revolvers do show up from time to time, you have to be cautious when buying a used K-frame in .357 mag. The cracked forcing cone issue for magnum K-frames has been somewhat overblown but there is no doubt that it exists. There's an active thread on this forum that shows a model 64 that needed to be re-barreled due to a cracked forcing cone and that's not even a magnum K-Frame. Used revolvers are often a good deal but you have to know what to look for.

[str8wal]

That 41 sounds interesting too, lol I haven't even bought the first and am already planning a second in 41 magnum.

When you are ready to move up, you may want to leapfrog the 41 and go right to the 44. There are a lot more options in bullet weight/style and factory ammo is much more common should you need it. Many stores won't even have a box of 41's on the shelf. But, let's keep our minds on the job at hand. The 357 may do all you need in a revolver.

[Walkingwolf]

A good amount of model 64's are on the market, but alas they are 38 spl. If you are looking for a hunting gun the GP100, or 686 is probably the way to go. If looking for self defense the 64 is a proven stopper, even with standard 38spl. Buffalo Bore has some hot FBI loads that exceed factory performance of other 38 +P.

I put my fear aside of buying a used revolver online, and have a model 64 on it's way. Crossing my fingers that it is in good condition, but it is really hard to wear out a 64, unless the gun is being shot constantly with hot ammo. I am not aware of any major problems with the USAF M15 at Lackland AFB, and they were shot almost daily with military ball.

Also for concealed carry a good choice is the new model 66, it has a reworked crane, and a more stout barrel that extends into the frame, the barrel cut at the forcing cone is gone. Unfortunately they no longer offer the 66 in a six inch model.

[Tom W.]

I prefer a D.A. revolver because that's what is comfortable for me. I had a Ruger S.A. .45 Colt / .45 acp convertible and mostly just used it as a fun gun. I traded after a few years mostly because I got tired of it.
The felt recoil, to me, is somewhat more straight back with a D.A. and not nearly as severe. I've had several Ruger SBH, one with a 10 inch barrel ( stupid purchase on my behalf ) one stainless with a 5 inch, and ended up with a SRH. Same loads, easier shooting. Even the .480 I had wasn't hard to shoot. As far as .357's go the Ruger 4" stainless Security Six was hard to beat.

[bluelund79]

I'll add into the dog pile. I own a Ruger GP100 and a Blackhawk in 357. Neither have seen the range since I purchased some Smith and Wessons. The grip fits me better, the action is smoother, and trigger is much better. All of that adds up to better shooting. Currently, I have a 686-6 in a 3" barrel as my edc, 627-5 4" pro series, 617-6 22lr 4", 69 44mag 4.25", 15-1 4" 38spl and a 10-6 4" 38spl. If the Rutgers weren't 6" barrels, I'd probably sell them sooner or later. Until then, they don't eat anything, nor do they take up much room in the safe. Good luck in your decision, it was rather easy for me, like it was for others. For what it's worth, I have Taurus a fair shake with a 4" 607, I didn't like the ported barrel, nor did it point well for me. I do own a Judge, but only for the fun factor, didn't want to blow the extra coin on a Smith, and I got such a screaming deal, I couldn't pass it up.

[charlie b]

Since you are an OTR driver try scheduling a stop in a town with an indoor range where you can try out a gun. Albuquerque has one right off of I40 in town. Las Cruces has one off of I-10 about two miles. Phoenix had a couple but I am not current on their businesses.

I'd get a .357, load it with .38spl until you get used to it. Then use .357mag.

When reloading I found that loading down to .38spl target loads was as easy to shoot as .22 and almost as cheap. Just a great all around chambering.

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[10-x]

How much $$$ do you want/ have to spend? Kind of important. Instructing folks starting on revolvers is easier with a .22 all the way around. If you havethe $$ pick up a Ruger single six or for DA a S&W. Smiths will be pricy but you will have a good DA revolver for life as with the Ruger. Sights can also be big factor, check out all that you can get your hands on. See which ones " feel right" for you. Everyone is different. Cant go wrong with a .357. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Art in Colorado]

I have said this many times before but will say it again. A S&W 686 with a Dash 3 or Dash 4 inside the crane after 686 to me is the perfect 357 revolver. These would all be used guns having been made in the late 80's to early 90's. I prefer the 4 inch models. Nothing wrong with Ruger GP's but can't tolerate the rubber grips. I know you can get after market wood grips for them but the angle to them to me is all wrong. While with the S&W the after market wood grips are many and most are great. If you can find one of these 686's you are going to have to pay more then a new Ruger but you will have a perfect revolver for life. I am sure there are more experienced members on this board but I have been buying and selling more S&W and Ruger revolvers then I can count for more then 30 years but I do have to admit never having to own a Ruger Security Six. So there you go.

[BlackIce05]

I honestly haven't given much thought on price. Don't get me wrong, I never have as much money as I think I should. But my view on buying a gun is that the price shouldn't be at the top of my concerns. I'd rather have to save for an extra month or two to get a gun that is made better, more accurate than I am, and has the least chance of needing to be repaired within the first couple of years than to save a little money and get it sooner, but have to wait for it to be sent back from repair, or worry that it's going to come apart on me or whatever. That being said, I'm always most interested in what can achieve my goals at the lowest price. Like Taurus for example, I gave that some serious thought because I had read where some said they love them, had nothing but good luck from them etc., but, there's a high enough risk of getting one of the "friday" guns, that it doesn't seem worth the cost savings. So far I think I'm leaning towards a S&W, they seem to be the most recommended, and even people recommending a ruger seem to compare them to the S&W. Also, some of the rugers just look odd to me, I would definitely have to get my hands on one before buying a new one. Unless I happen to find something used, of course that could change everything. Was going to say I could sell it if I couldn't get along with it, but honestly I've never found a gun of any brand that I just absolutely hated, and I've never sold one. I have every gun I've ever owned all the way back to a 22 I got when I was a kid.

[psweigle]

Keep in mind, ruger is by far and above the strongest revolvers built today, and are used as test guns for ammo companies. There is a whole section in most modern reloading manuals that are marked very clearly "ruger ONLY" loads. If you are looking to purchase a gun that will be around forever, it may be a good choice. No argue ment that a smith used to have a much better trigger though.

[BlackIce05]

Thanks, psweigle, that's very good to know. I hadn't read that. That certainly raises the ruger up some. I don't know that I'm leaning either way now.

[charlie b]

FWIW, the "Ruger only" loads originally came from the .45Colt. Ruger's SA in that caliber was built stronger than the original Colts so the ammo folks came up with heavier loads for that revolver. Some manuals say "Ruger/Contender only" since the TC Contender barrels could also handle the heavier loads (and some say Ruger/Contender/Marlin or rifle loads).

Rugers are strong, but, I would not say that a heavier frame S&W was any weaker than similar sized Ruger. There were some lighter .357's made that did not like full power loads. The model 19 S&W was kinda famous for that. The early Ruger SP101's in .357 Mag were labeled for 125gn only loads. I would not choose a Ruger just based on frame strength. Any of the modern .357's will handle the loads.

There were some special .357 loads for the TC Contender that had 180 or 200 gn bullets loaded longer than the normal max length for the .357 Intended for silhouette shooting. But, they were not loaded to more pressure than the regular .357 loads. I don't know if any fit in the Rugers or Dan Wessons. Of course there was also the .357Maximum round developed for that competition.

[contender1]

Ok, you have some more info & have opened up your ideas a bit.
May I suggest you look at the Ruger Match Target GP-100?
It, in my eyes is a bit better than the "regular" production GP-100's. I own a few of the older "Security-Six" guns,,, (5 of them,) and they are all quite nice. I never felt the "need" to add a GP-100. Well, I made the mistake of handling the Match Champion version. The wood grips FIT my hands quite well, and I had to have one. It caused me to buy a second GP-100 with a 6" bbl, and I added the MC grips to it as well. But the MC shoots extremely well. Enough to where it's a back up revolver now for Competition. (I won't cut the cylinder for moon clips or it's be my primary competition revolver.)

As for the 41 mag,,, I own several in the SA design by Ruger. If you reload,,, it's NOT a problem to have enough ammo.

[DougGuy]

So far I'm thinking I want something in .357 magnum since I already have some brass for it, and one of my 9mm molds casts at .359 before PC.

Not likely to find a stock revolver that will accept .359" boolits even without PC, and most will need cylinder throats reamed to successfully shoot .358" and a lot of 9mm guys want to shoot .358" in their autoloaders so they get the barrel throated to .3585" this would let you load .358" across the board. The larger boolits seal in the bore better so you get less leading. In a *perfect* world, you would want a cast boolit sized .001" to .002" larger than groove diameter of the barrel, and cylinder throats sized .0005" to .001" larger than boolit diameter.

Since cast boolits are generally sized larger than factory j-words, you may need to have a little work done on the cylinder to properly set the gun up for shooting cast. It's not expensive, and is usually a one-time fix and you will be good to go afterwards.

Also, don't shoot the possums, they don't carry disease like coons and are very beneficial to have around, they eat ticks by the thousands reducing the threat of lyme disease in humans, where you have possums you won't have rats as they compete for the same food groups.

[Mk42gunner]

The suggestion above to visit a rental range and try them out has a lot of merit.

There is a slight but real difference in the balance or handling between a S&W L frame (586 or 686) and the normal full underlug GP-100. I know the GP suits me better; when I had my first one, a blued 6", my shooting partner had a 6" S&W 686 Classic Hunter and I liked my cheap Ruger better than his S&W.

Any of the other suggestions are going to handle a lot different. For example the N frame S&W, I like them, they are accurate, but I have never been 100% comfortable with the big guns and I wear large gloves.

Robert

[Sasquatch-1]

You may want to consider customer service also. I have never had to call Smith for anything (I only own 3 that don't get shot as much as the Rugers). I have had to call Ruger for a couple of things and 95% of the time they will ask my address and say the part is in the mail. I have seen reports that the cylinder throats, in some of the newer guns, may not be reamed properly but have also seen that Ruger will take care of the problem quickly.

If you are ever in the Washington D. C./Baltimore area and traveling along Rt. 81 there are several nice LGS in the area along with a Gander Mountain. If interested I could send you the names. A couple have ranges and will let you try used guns that they have in stock.

[BlackIce05]

May I suggest you look at the Ruger Match Target GP-100?

Actually I was looking at that one real hard yesterday, it appears Bud's sold out of them between then and now but I was looking real close at that and the 686 plus.

So does reaming the cylinder throats adversely affect shooting with j-words at all? I have the expectation of it to be able to shoot both accurately. I fully expect to have to size the boolits differently for 9mm and 357/38 I have no issue with that.

Some of the issue with getting into LGS or rental ranges, is that they really don't like 80,000 lb 70 ft long vehicles tearing up their parking lot (I've actually dug significant holes in blacktop by turning), if their parking lot is big enough for me to get in and out of. But some Cabela's have truck parking, so I can get into one of them and try holding a couple. I think that's about as close as I'll be able to get, but I'll certainly be keeping my eyes open.

[DougGuy]

So does reaming the cylinder throats adversely affect shooting with j-words at all? I have the expectation of it to be able to shoot both accurately.
No. J words are soft cores swaged into gilding metal jackets and they will happily "grow" or bump up to fill the throats upon firing, then swage snugly into the barrel when they leave the cylinder. Unless you are shooting them as mouse fart loads then there may not be any obturation.


I fully expect to have to size the boolits differently for 9mm and 357/38 I have no issue with that.

If you want to interchange 9mm ammo with an autopistol and a convertible revolver, you could size to fit the autoloader and take your chances with how they will shoot in the revolver, what I was saying earlier is that it's not unusual for me to get requests to do both revolver cylinder and autopistol throats for the same guy so that the same load and same boolit can be used universally.

[BlackIce05]

Ah ok, well, then it sounds like I may have to look you up once I get my hands on a revolver. I looked briefly at the convertibles mentioned earlier in the thread, but iirc they're SA and I think I'd rather have DA.

[bisleyfan41]

First off, I think it's pretty cool that your mom has a 357 Blackhawk. Secondly, since you shot hers and liked the experience, why not consider going that way? The Ruger Blackhawk grip frame helps handle recoil and with a 6.5" barrel, you'll realize high velocities and excellent field accuracy. The Blackhawks are also way more user-friendly than the DAs in regards to a detailed take down for service or cleaning by the average gun owner. Simple mechanics, rock solid reliability, multi-generational durability. You almost can't tear one up if you try.

One word of advice should you go this way, search out an older used example. I wouldn't buy a current production Ruger if you paid me. There are many excellent condition older models out there for really low cost that don't suffer from Ruger's current QC issues.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

=[/url]

[BlackIce05]

So it is, that's weird, on my end it'll show up one time and not the next.

[CDRGlock]

Here are two of my 357 Magnums:
S&W Performance Center 627 8 shot 5" and 586 L-Comp 7 shot 3".

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/5e73310929e51d1e80784834fdf74be3.jpg

Then you can go beastly!

Smith 460 XVR 8 3/8"

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/b4f3a2b4c9a968d2117dc5aaec6557f0.jpg

Or smith 500!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/0172526f1d0d258a3d7de210f27f23b1.jpg

Or just get one of each!
Smith 500
Smith 460 XVR
Ruger Super Redhawk 454 Casull
Smith and Wesson Performance Center 629 Hunter.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170418/5dcbc9f3c23b204dec60eaadd4213e86.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[BlackIce05]

Wow, very nice! I'd take one of each for sure.

[Sasquatch-1]

One consideration I don't think has been mentioned is the S&W 929. This is a bit more expensive considering it's a pro shop gun and was designed for Jerry Miculek. It's in 9mm only and uses moon clips. It is one of the most accurate factory revolvers I have ever shot. It is also the one that Miculek made the 1000 yd shot with.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

...k ;)

[iomskp]

I have had a few S&W revolvers over the years, the 686 was great, model 10 is good but the latest one is a model 28 with a 4" barrel, it's big it fits my hand, maybe I should upgrade the sights and do a trigger job but I like it as it is.

Regards Trevor

[BlackIce05]

I think of the 2 you're right, I'd prefer the one with novak sights too. I hadn't tried Gander Mountain, I know I go by one in IL every once in a while that is always empty. I'll have to check that out. I've been looking awful hard at the 686 plus and the 686 plus deluxe though, both look very nice. Sooo many choices.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

ht ...

[Soundguy]

My first vote is a 6" blue python, but if you want something 2600$ cheaper :)

Try a Rossi 972 6" stainless.

Good basic 400$ revolver that shoots good right out of the box, decent grip too.

As you know, with a 357mag, you can shoot 38spl, 38+P, and 357mag.

[Walkingwolf]

My first vote is a 6" blue python, but if you want something 2600$ cheaper :)

Try a Rossi 972 6" stainless.

Good basic 400$ revolver that shoots good right out of the box, decent grip too.

As you know, with a 357mag, you can shoot 38spl, 38+P, and 357mag.

I have not seen them available anywhere new, it is like Rossi dropped out of the DA revolver market.

[Petrol & Powder]

OK - I've been trying REALLY HARD to avoid getting into a Ruger vs. S&W debate on this thread but I can't take it anymore.

Full disclosure - I own a lot of S&W revolvers and a lot of Ruger revolvers. I've also owned (past tense) a lot of S&W and Ruger revolvers over the years.
They are BOTH great revolvers in my opinion.

I grow weary of the glowing comments about the quality of S&W actions (they are generally very good) and the comments that the S&W is capable of better accuracy than a Ruger (probably not true).
I grow equally as weary when people disparage the Rugers as having horrible triggers. (OK, they're probably not great out of the box)

The fact is, the S&W L-frames (581, 586, 681, 686) are fantastic guns. The Ruger GP-100's are fantastic guns. The debate about which is better has been running since the mid 1980's and it shows no sign of relenting. It's Ford vs. Chevy trucks for crying out loud !

When the GP-100 was first released it had a seriously heavy main spring. The GP-100 got a bad reputation for its DA pull. Ruger remedied that a few years later but the "out of the box" DA trigger has never been all that great. S&W had a clear advantage when talking about bone stock, "out of the box", DA actions.

However, the Ruger trigger isn't as horrible as it's often described and it can absolutely be greatly improved with just a little work. If you're not a real mechanically inclined person, the S&W may be a better choice. I can make a GP-100 trigger as good as any new S&W but I can't make it as good as an old S&W.
That being said, the Ruger is a seriously strong gun and they can shoot incredibly well. I'm not a little girly-man; what some people call a grossly heavy trigger, I classify as an average service grade trigger. As long as the action is smooth and breaks cleanly; it will probably shoot just fine for me.

There's more to a good revolver than trigger pull. Both guns are incredibly strong. The Ruger may hold a slight advantage but it's not a significant advantage. Both guns are proven to be incredibly durable. The Ruger generally holds a price advantage when new. The S&W may have slightly better "out of the box" quality. Ruger has great customer service. The new S&W has the "Hillary Hole" but it doesn't affect the operation of the gun. Both guns can suffer from thread choke where the barrel passes through the frame.

Overall; It's a wash between the two.
Personally, the best shooting .357 mag I ever owned was a S&W model 681 but I would take a GP-100 over the S&W, if given the choice.

[BlackIce05]

That's kind of the conclusion I've come to so far, that the 2 are near equal. I am very mechanically inclined, always have been. Which is why a large selection of aftermarket upgrades is a plus. I can't leave things alone, gotta tinker. So far I'm keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced used revolver, but if I don't find that, then next time I can get into a Cabela's or GM, then I'll see which feels the best in my hand, if they both fit fine, then I'm not sure which I'd pick. But until then I'm still open to suggestions and recommendations. There's a ton of revolver stuff out there that I don't know and it's kinda overwhelming trying to jump into it on my own. So whenever someone suggests something, I go look at it and learn a little. I don't have any S&W anything, and the only ruger I have is a 10/22, so at this point brand loyalty isn't a factor. Also I'm not all that concerned about trigger pull on either, because from what I've read, that's relatively easy to customize to my desire. Same with grips, although I have a little more trouble with that one since changing grips changes the fit in your hand.

[BlackIce05]

Also, doesn't Taurus make Rossi, or Rossi makes Taurus or something like that? Not that I have anything against either, I was looking pretty hard at Taurus at one point but seemed like a lot of unhappy customers, they do have an attractive price tag though.

[CDRGlock]

OK - I've been trying REALLY HARD to avoid getting into a Ruger vs. S&W debate on this thread but I can't take it anymore.

Full disclosure - I own a lot of S&W revolvers and a lot of Ruger revolvers. I've also owned (past tense) a lot of S&W and Ruger revolvers over the years.
They are BOTH great revolvers in my opinion.

I grow weary of the glowing comments about the quality of S&W actions (they are generally very good) and the comments that the S&W is capable of better accuracy than a Ruger (probably not true).
I grow equally as weary when people disparage the Rugers as having horrible triggers. (OK, they're probably not great out of the box)

The fact is, the S&W L-frames (581, 586, 681, 686) are fantastic guns. The Ruger GP-100's are fantastic guns. The debate about which is better has been running since the mid 1980's and it shows no sign of relenting. It's Ford vs. Chevy trucks for crying out loud !

When the GP-100 was first released it had a seriously heavy main spring. The GP-100 got a bad reputation for its DA pull. Ruger remedied that a few years later but the "out of the box" DA trigger has never been all that great. S&W had a clear advantage when talking about bone stock, "out of the box", DA actions.

However, the Ruger trigger isn't as horrible as it's often described and it can absolutely be greatly improved with just a little work. If you're not a real mechanically inclined person, the S&W may be a better choice. I can make a GP-100 trigger as good as any new S&W but I can't make it as good as an old S&W.
That being said, the Ruger is a seriously strong gun and they can shoot incredibly well. I'm not a little girly-man; what some people call a grossly heavy trigger, I classify as an average service grade trigger. As long as the action is smooth and breaks cleanly; it will probably shoot just fine for me.

There's more to a good revolver than trigger pull. Both guns are incredibly strong. The Ruger may hold a slight advantage but it's not a significant advantage. Both guns are proven to be incredibly durable. The Ruger generally holds a price advantage when new. The S&W may have slightly better "out of the box" quality. Ruger has great customer service. The new S&W has the "Hillary Hole" but it doesn't affect the operation of the gun. Both guns can suffer from thread choke where the barrel passes through the frame.

Overall; It's a wash between the two.
Personally, the best shooting .357 mag I ever owned was a S&W model 681 but I would take a GP-100 over the S&W, if given the choice.

Great post.

Out of the box, one of my best 3 shot groups from factory ammo was from a Ruger GP 100 from 10 yards, double action, freehanded.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/81c15259770eb441656678bbea581061.jpg

This is the little man in the corner of a B2 target.

I have hit the 1 cm bullseye from a S&W 627 Performance Center 5" at 25 yards with my reloads, though.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

[Petrol & Powder]

That's kind of the conclusion I've come to so far, that the 2 are near equal. I am very mechanically inclined, always have been. Which is why a large selection of aftermarket upgrades is a plus. I can't leave things alone, gotta tinker. So far I'm keeping my eyes open for a reasonably priced used revolver, but if I don't find that, then next time I can get into a Cabela's or GM, then I'll see which feels the best in my hand, if they both fit fine, then I'm not sure which I'd pick. But until then I'm still open to suggestions and recommendations. There's a ton of revolver stuff out there that I don't know and it's kinda overwhelming trying to jump into it on my own. So whenever someone suggests something, I go look at it and learn a little. I don't have any S&W anything, and the only ruger I have is a 10/22, so at this point brand loyalty isn't a factor. Also I'm not all that concerned about trigger pull on either, because from what I've read, that's relatively easy to customize to my desire. Same with grips, although I have a little more trouble with that one since changing grips changes the fit in your hand.

A few points:
1. Don't limit yourself to Cabelas and Grander Mtn. - in fact, I would avoid them, they're overpriced.
2. Don't limit yourself to new guns, you'll pay a premium and if you educate yourself a little, there are good used revolvers for sale.
3. The Rugers usually start below the cost of the S&W's and if you have some mechanical skill, some tools and some time - you can turn that price difference in your favor.

[10-x]

Been around awhile so all but 2 of my S&W revolvers are pre 80's. Still look for "drawer revolvers", surprised whats out there. Love my M 19, killed a deer with it back in 78 kind of on a bet. Neck shot at about 70 yds, DRT. M 28 after a trigger job will be carry piece when hunting again( get back fixed).
Buy what you want, but Id get a grip on as many as you can to get the feel and balance. Actual grips can be changed but how one feels in ones hand is unique. Keep us posted.
Doug, pretty sure you dont remember me, been 4 years? came by your place with a friend from Butner, you fixed a 45 Colt cylinder on my Ruger Blackhawk. Have possums, leave em alone most of the time, but also had rats. *#;: rat got in RV and chewed under dash, insurance co did not like that. Use commercial bait stations now. We try and feed one young male coon as well as the birds and treerats. This coon comes early, eats and heads to the marsh to socialize. He will watch you as you put the left overs, scraps, refrig. clean out down for him. Seems not to be diseased. Id love to have another pet one but Ga. wont allow it, and would not consider having one if couldnt take it to the vet.

[hylander]

I have been mowing over this dilemma myself.
I have chosen GP-100 6' stainless.
Both the GP and the 686 feel pretty good to me.
One thing I like about the Ruger is that you can change the front sight easily.
Also lots of grip choices.
Last deciding factor was the Ruger's we got in at the shop have less than .006 B/C gap
and the 686 has .009 gap, to much for me, the one I chose has less then .004 gap.
Also ran a tight patch through the bore and can not feel any barrel constriction.
However the trigger pull on the 686 is awesome, but an hour of work on the Ruger will make it pretty close to the same.

[Sasquatch-1]

Congratulations on your new purchase.

But really, a 6 foot barrel! won't that make it a little hard to transport and aim? :groner: :bigsmyl2:


I have been mowing over this dilemma myself.
I have chosen GP-100 6' stainless.

[BlackIce05]

I don't actually plan on buying one from Cabela's or GM, just thought I'd try to get in there to hold a few and see what fits the best. Although I suppose there's a very high risk of getting my hands on one and not being able to let go. Wouldn't be the first time. I'm very open to a used revolver, almost prefer it, but seems like everything I find that I'm interested in is close enough to new price that I may as well get new. Also, what is B/C gap? and what kind of measurement are you looking for?

[Walkingwolf]

I just picked up my police trade in model 64-5 today, it had a B/C gap of .005, new is usually around .004. It is the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone. I paid about double for the gun from what it sold for new to a police dept, but still less than half price of a new 64. It is a DAO only, which I am watching for a hammer, and trigger. Also the grips were those nasty hogue grips, already ordered a new set of service grips from S&W for $44, I believe their grips are made by Altmont.

If you watch the dealers like J&G you might be able to snag a 586 police trade in.

[Walkingwolf]

Congratulations on your new purchase.

But really, a 6 foot barrel! won't that make it a little hard to transport and aim? :groner: :bigsmyl2:

Ask the Joker.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hasipuR7-as

[Petrol & Powder]

I don't actually plan on buying one from Cabela's or GM, just thought I'd try to get in there to hold a few and see what fits the best. Although I suppose there's a very high risk of getting my hands on one and not being able to let go. Wouldn't be the first time. I'm very open to a used revolver, almost prefer it, but seems like everything I find that I'm interested in is close enough to new price that I may as well get new. Also, what is B/C gap? and what kind of measurement are you looking for?

B/C gap is Barrel to Cylinder gap. It's the distance between the face of the cylinder and the breach end of the barrel. Typically it should be less than .010" and ideally it should be closer to about .006". The minimum is .003" -.004" (depends a bit on which revolver we're talking about).

B/C Gap is measured with a feeler gauge. It is the minimum distance between those two parts (cylinder held forward). When the cylinder gap is measured with the cylinder held to the rear you will generally receive a larger measurement; the difference between those two measurements is known as "end shake". Excessive end shake is a problem and may be a sign of a worn crane (yoke). Excessive end shake can often be corrected with shims or swaging the yoke tube. However, excessive end shake should give pause to a perspective buyer of a used revolver.

[Drm50]

193615I have more than a few revolvers, in fact more than a few 357s. If I was to be in the market for
a 357 the two I would look at would be S&W M19 6" or M28 6". Both these can be picked up used
in excellent shape for $5-$600. Due to the fad on short barrel guns 6" models are the buy. I find
the S&Ws are a lot smoother actions than Ruger and not as clubby.The best 19s are up to -3, the
28s are -2s, these have pinned barrels and counter bored cylinders. I don't do stainless but some
guys like them. As far as I'm concerned if you are buying new one is no better than the other. I
didnt mention M27 which is top of the line N frame because they are pricey, 28 is same gun made
in less fancy police version, also on N frame.193612193613193614

[Sasquatch-1]

Here are a couple of videos Larry Potterfield of Midway that might help in your search.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JII__KNLYY0&list=PLkD-KfsaoGbdfnZVW0kqnq6WG6cVuOfBg&index=38
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95xjizDOrcc

[BlackIce05]

All of these pictures are making me want one all that much more. Yes those videos were very informative, thanks. Another question I forgot to ask previously, and honestly not sure if I want to ask, but what is a "Hillary hole"?

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

.....

[BlackIce05]

Ah ok, thanks. So S&W is the only one that has that hole?

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

6[/url]

[BlackIce05]

Good to know, as far as new goes, that's a point for the Ruger in my book. I do like that Match Champion. I saw Bud's has the one like yours with the novak sights back up.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

.....

[BlackIce05]

I'm definitely open to used guns, but most that I find that appeal to me are so close to new price that I might as well just get new. Yeah I think I would be happy with either a S&W or Ruger, but they're so close on all the stuff that's important to me that I have to start looking at some of the finer details to choose one. BTW I stopped at a LGS yesterday that happened to have that Match Champion, and for only $900. I asked if I could see it, and he said no, not until I was ready to start paperwork. Which is why I keep saying I won't buy anything from there.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

r ...

[Sasquatch-1]

I think I would tell this guy to take a flying leap. I have never been in a store where they tell you that you can not see a gun. Unless it is a part of a personnel collection and not for sale. I think I would also tell everyone I know to stay away.


I'm definitely open to used guns, but most that I find that appeal to me are so close to new price that I might as well just get new. Yeah I think I would be happy with either a S&W or Ruger, but they're so close on all the stuff that's important to me that I have to start looking at some of the finer details to choose one. BTW I stopped at a LGS yesterday that happened to have that Match Champion, and for only $900. I asked if I could see it, and he said no, not until I was ready to start paperwork. Which is why I keep saying I won't buy anything from there.

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

ll???

[jmort]

"BTW I stopped at a LGS yesterday that happened to have that Match Champion, and for only $900. I asked if I could see it, and he said no, not until I was ready to start paperwork. Which is why I keep saying I won't buy anything from there."

What a wanker. That is not a thing.

[44man]

A store here has a range and you can shoot a gun. But choice is nothing but personal. For me a .44 is the start. To find a FT Ruger would be wonderful. Why oh why did I part with mine but they were only $96 at the time. The 29 was $140. I sold to buy other guns. My 71 in .348 was another fail. Don't sell guns. I had model 12's too. Who knew back then?

[BlackIce05]

Yeah that place is something else, I've never spoken to anyone that had a pleasant experience there. Unless you happen to be a friend of his, then it's a totally different story. But anyway, there's a LGS near me that has an indoor range with some rentals, but they don't have any revolvers available. It's all mostly glocks and similar stuff.

[44man]

I love gun nuts and if I had a store you would never leave disappointed. As long as I can pay the bills, the customer is always right.
We have a new gun store in town stacked with pistols at full price. No revolvers and they are making their version of the 1911 but you need to sell the house. No reloading stuff at all. I see a short life for the store. You don't sell $2000 guns in Charles Town WV.

[robertbank]

I am going to start off by saying I have a bias for Ruger. I do so only because it was Ruger who first made the GP-100 with a 4.2" barrel to accommodate our gun laws to be exact a barrel > 105MM. Ruger even noted the gun in their catalog. S&W has since come out with their 686 "Canadian Edition". They could still reach out to their northern market by adding a few more models with a slightly longer barrel ie 3MM longer.

With that admission out of the way I have shot "SSR Revolver Division" in IDPA for the past two years using my GP-100. I had the cylinders reamed, the forcing cone cut to 11 degrees to accommodate my lead 158 gr RN bullet and trigger and hammer shims installed. I also have a retired US Customs 686 No Dash with a 105.14MM barrel.

Trigger pull on both guns is smooth a s glass. The Ruger weighs less than the Smith. Both guns shoot where the barrel is pointing which occasionally is where I thought I was aiming:p.

My nod is for the Ruger because of my bias. Beyond that buy either model. Either will serve you a lifetime. For competition and older eyes get the GP-100 Match Champion made for SSR IDPA. The gun is ssssaaaaawwweeet and is set up pretty much the way you would want it, just check the cylinders for proper sizing.

Take Care

Bob

[BlackIce05]

Thanks, I'm not real old, but I think my eyes are way older than I am. If I get new, I think I'm leaning pretty heavily towards that Match Champion. I was kinda hoping for a 6" barrel, but several people on here have recommended either 4" or 4"-6", so I'm beginning to flex on that one a bit. I'm still open to used, but my hopes of that are dwindling, for the most part I'm reduced to buying online and most that I've seen that I'd be willing to buy without having in my hand first, are so close to new price it just wouldn't make sense to buy the used one.

[Sasquatch-1]

About a year ago I paid $450.00 for my Standard model 6" GP 100 used. This was from a friend and he was trying to get $500.00 from anyone else. Don't exclude the used market.

[Petrol & Powder]

Thanks, I'm not real old, but I think my eyes are way older than I am. If I get new, I think I'm leaning pretty heavily towards that Match Champion. I was kinda hoping for a 6" barrel, but several people on here have recommended either 4" or 4"-6", so I'm beginning to flex on that one a bit. I'm still open to used, but my hopes of that are dwindling, for the most part I'm reduced to buying online and most that I've seen that I'd be willing to buy without having in my hand first, are so close to new price it just wouldn't make sense to buy the used one.

Just an observation I've made over the years - While causally looking over the used revolvers in gun stores and gun shows, I've always noted that there's consistently higher numbers of 6" barreled revolvers offered for sale. People purchase 6" revolvers and either trade them in or put them on consignment more often than 4" revolvers. Clearly some people buy 6" revolvers and like them but overall, the 6" revolvers end up on the used market more often than the 4" models. The exception to this was the flood of police trade-ins during the 1990's but that seems to have run it's course. Used 4" police revolvers still show up on the used market but not in the numbers they once did.

There's nothing wrong with a 6" barrel but it's pretty much a dedicated target or hunting gun. That extra 2" of barrel gives you a little more muzzle forward weight, a little more velocity and a little more sight radius. Of those three factors, the sight radius is probably the most significant. However those advantages come at the cost of two more inches of steel on the end of the gun. Like everything in life, it's a compromise.
Some people would be surprised to see the results of shooting similar 4" and 6" guns from machine rests. With all else being equal, the 4" barrel is capable of similar, if not exactly, the same accuracy as the 6" barrel. The difference is the shooter more than the gun (this is where that extra sight radius comes into play). It's easier to obtain better accuracy from the long barrel but the guns themselves aren't inherently more accurate. I've won a few challenges with a snubnose 38 Special when someone has said the gun wasn't capable of decent accuracy. It may be more difficult to shoot a shorter barrel but the difficulty lies with the shooter not the gun.

In the end, you'll buy what you want but I don't think you would be disappointed with a 4" revolver and you may find yourself to be happier in the long run.
Robertbank, the prior poster, can probably shed some light on the accuracy of a 4" (well 4.2" :-) for our neighbors to the north) revolvers.

Also, don't give up on the used market. There are still some good deals to be had on quality used revolvers.

[robertbank]

Thanks, I'm not real old, but I think my eyes are way older than I am. If I get new, I think I'm leaning pretty heavily towards that Match Champion. I was kinda hoping for a 6" barrel, but several people on here have recommended either 4" or 4"-6", so I'm beginning to flex on that one a bit. I'm still open to used, but my hopes of that are dwindling, for the most part I'm reduced to buying online and most that I've seen that I'd be willing to buy without having in my hand first, are so close to new price it just wouldn't make sense to buy the used one.

I would get the regular GP-100 based upon the above. The Match Champion was a purpose built model for IDPA SSR Division. The gun only comes with a 4.2" barrel. The regular GP-100 gives you more options for the front sight - this might be advantageous if you have failing eyes.

One other shooting option you should explore is an Slide Optic mounted pistol such as the S&W M&P CORE or the new SIG 320 with the Optic installed by SIG. Once sighted in the bullet goes where the red dot is. I find it much easier to shoot decent scores using an Optic sight. The slide Optic sight is going to be a God sent for those of us who have mature eyes.:smile:

Take Care

Bob

[BlackIce05]

Just wanted to update this thread to let you all know that your advice and suggestions helped me immensely in trying to learn a bit about revolvers and make a semi educated choice on purchasing my first one. Although I didn't get any of the suggested models, I did follow a lot of the advice on what to look for. I ended up buying a S&W 65-4 .357 magnum with 4 inch barrel in the S&S section on here, and after putting 100 rounds or so through it am convinced I made the right choice. I love this gun and it has quickly climbed to the top as one of my favorites. I can shoot this thing more accurately and comfortably than any handgun I've ever shot, and it's a real pleasure to shoot. I am most definitely sold on wheelguns now. Only problem now is which one to get next.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213957&d=1518370532

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213959&d=1518370557

[Drm50]

You made the right choice S&Ws are hard to beat. Nothing wrong with Ruger but they tend to be
heavier and not as smooth actions on standard models. Colts pricey and not near as durable as
S&W or Ruger.