Mastery of a Short barrel Super Blackhawk

[Bazoo]

I have a 4 5/8" barreled super blackhawk in 44 Remington Magnum that i've been working to master. I went from shooting very left and making 6 or 8" groups at 15 yards, down to being mostly centered and down to 3" groups.

I am an excellent shot with other handguns, but im still getting used to the recoil and muzzle flip of the 44 magnum. I have a single six at my disposal (Moms), and i've been shooting both specials and magnums in the blackhawk. My main problem, at least, the one I see, is that i've got an inconsistent grip. Being used to shooting 22's, 38s, 1911 45's, and 357 blackhawks, i've not always had a death grip on a gun. But being used mostly to the 22 single six, with a light grip mostly, and even with the 357s.
So i've been firming my grip as much as I can without shaking, and thats helped a lot, unless I forget.

Also, I was anticipating the recoil when shooting double handed, and pulling the gun left with my off hand. I noticed when I first shot gun single handed, and was centered instead of left. I have not done any sandbag shooting with the gun though. So i've been firming my grip with my strong hand, and being careful about my off hand grip. I've also changed my offhand grip slightly so its less around my strong hand, and more squared off my knuckles.

So, other than practice, getting used to the recoil and muzzle flip, and working on better consistency with this gun, i've been thinking of trying some checkered grips.

I've been using standard ruger wood grips. When I got the gun, it had hogue rubber finger groove grips, which help with control greatly. They look bad though, and I changed them, knowing i was going a step backwards in the handling department to gain in the aesthetics department.

I might add that this is a standard sized grip the same as a regular blackhawk, and not the longer grip of a standard super blackhawk. It also has a round trigger guard.

It's crossed my mind, having a longer barrel put on the gun, but that is a last resort really. I am content with the shorter barrel. I bought the gun because I didnt want a square trigger guard, aside from being ugly, i dont want my knuckles chewed up, nor do I want to snag my hand or fingers on it. I also dont like the look of the longer grip, preferring the look of the standard shorter grip.

Any ideas that might help me at this point?

Does anyone have any experience as to if checkered panel grips will help in any way with control of the blackhawk with magnum loadings?

~Bazoo

[XDROB]

My only idea, a nice set of fingered wood grips. I think Rosewood looks good on any color gun.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[Bazoo]

I appreciate the idea XDROB, However, I dont like the way it looks. I havent tried a set, but have thought on it. My hands, although large, have short fingers, and i've predetermined, right or wrong, that they wouldnt fit my hand.

[ReloaderFred]

I have Altamont Fleur-de-lis grips on all my Blackhawks, and they make a big difference in shooting.

https://www.altamontco.com/shared/photos_medium/RV-CP05-L01-FL.jpg

Here's the link: https://www.altamontco.com/pistol-grips/ruger/blackhawk/

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Dryball]

You don't really need a "death grip"...it will take some getting used to but try this; wrap your weak had over your strong and apply pressure with your weak hand and use your strong hand to "steer the gun." Also, lock your wrists and not your arms

[nicholst55]

For an SA revolver with any kind of recoil, you don't want a death grip. You want the gun to 'roll' a little in your hand, and rubber or finger-groove grips don't allow that. It sounds like you're on the right path, and have already tightened your shot group up significantly. I have the same gun, and they're not as forgiving as the longer barrel revolvers. Keep practicing!

[Thumbcocker]

I have Hogue rubber finger grooves or Bisley grips on all my Ruger .44 magnums. Beauty is as beauty does. Results trump aesthetics.

[contender1]

I own a chopped down OM Super that has the 4-5/8" bbl. It shoots VERY well. I'd not look at a bbl swap for you gun,,, but instead, work on a correct shooting grip & also,,, JUST use reduced loads,,, (44 spls,) until you master it.
In gripping,,, using both hands, the dominant hand is for control, and the off hand is for bracing. I usually suggest about 30% of the grip is with the strong hand, and 70% is with the weak hand. Just as Dryball has mentioned.
May I suggest you visit another Forum, singleactions dot com owned by Lee Martin. Look for a member's posts,, "david bradshaw" and he has some EXCELLENT info on shooting, how to, and even several videos demonstrating he knows a lot about the things he shares. There is even a compiled bunch of his stuff.
He does an excellent job of sharing how to keep a consistent grip & how important it is. He also has a long & successful history of steel silhouette shooting to back up his info.
Look into it,, and I can say that once you learn the gun, even 100 yds is a doable distance with it.

[44man]

Those are truly some beautiful grips. But I use Pachmeyer signature grips on Rugers and the BFR's came with Uncle Mike grips. I hold low on a hog leg so my finger is straighter to the trigger and I hold very firmly so my hand does not change position at all. I let the gun raise my arms.
If you have slippery grips a thin leather shooting glove will do wonders.
Those short barrels can really buck, accuracy comes from keeping the same hold.
Your hands are all different of course, one friend has short, stubs for fingers and he shoots every gun left. He pushes the frame. Even a 1911. He just can't get a straight pull. I have large hands and long fingers nut a concern is the trigger guard on my knuckle. I have a huge knuckle from shooting heavy bows. I must have a filler behind the guard and hate the square one. A Bisley will beat me to blood.
Two guns I can't maintain a consistent grip with are the S&W 29 and the Bisley. The 29 is deadly accurate but never, ever took top spots in IHMSA and I think it is the grip. I could shoot 1/2" groups at 50 meters, put the gun down and shoot another 1/2" group but it would be 10" from the first. To put the gun down between shots was a disaster. I only shot one good group with a Bisley but sweat blood to do it.

[nagantguy]

You've already come a long way! The 4!5/8 is my favorite for general use and it's what I'll be hunting pigs with this weekend with some old Marine Corps buddies. Grip on a single action is slightly different beast. Firm not death, needs to roll, one of the most common problems I see in my pistol classes is for some reason when some people grip a pistol or revolver they fled thier lats and neck muscles like they are not n a body building contest! That'll put you low and right or left depending every time and as the muscles fatigue the groups open up sometimes by feet! Remember it's a total system, grip stance hold breath sight picture/alignment consist trigger manipulation and follow through! I'd agree with shooting specials until you master the platform! For normal handgun hunting distance you don't give up much in accuracy over longer barreled revolvers and the 4 5/8 is a dream to carry! By chance what color is your front sight? Red,orange white all work for some but I've found most do best with black.

[44man]

I own a chopped down OM Super that has the 4-5/8" bbl. It shoots VERY well. I'd not look at a bbl swap for you gun,,, but instead, work on a correct shooting grip & also,,, JUST use reduced loads,,, (44 spls,) until you master it.
In gripping,,, using both hands, the dominant hand is for control, and the off hand is for bracing. I usually suggest about 30% of the grip is with the strong hand, and 70% is with the weak hand. Just as Dryball has mentioned.
May I suggest you visit another Forum, singleactions dot com owned by Lee Martin. Look for a member's posts,, "david bradshaw" and he has some EXCELLENT info on shooting, how to, and even several videos demonstrating he knows a lot about the things he shares. There is even a compiled bunch of his stuff.
He does an excellent job of sharing how to keep a consistent grip & how important it is. He also has a long & successful history of steel silhouette shooting to back up his info.
Look into it,, and I can say that once you learn the gun, even 100 yds is a doable distance with it.
I was booted from there and know lee, he has been here to shoot. Heck of a nice guy. He seen me shoot the BFR 45-70 and wanted me back. But I have a beef with Taffin.
Lee and his dad are tremendous gunsmiths too and build some wonderful rifles but some are too much for me. 90° up with recoil with big calibers in light guns---OUCH.
Now Bradshaw is a man to listen to. One of the best with any gun.
But the site is populated with tail draggers to Taffin. He started on me from day one.
Now Whitworth was a friend and knows revolvers and can shoot. He would go in my tree stand and bust little water bottles off hand to near 100 yards. If he says anything, you can take it to the bank. But Taffin did not earn what he claims, shoots factory loads most, holds a six gun wrong, ruined his wrists so he has someone else shoot or uses a Ransom and only counts the best 2 or 3 out of 5 or 6 shots. Fliers are never measured.
With what is here at Cast Boolits you will go there and laugh. But for sure look at Lee, Whitworth and Bradshaw.

[44man]

You've already come a long way! The 4!5/8 is my favorite for general use and it's what I'll be hunting pigs with this weekend with some old Marine Corps buddies. Grip on a single action is slightly different beast. Firm not death, needs to roll, one of the most common problems I see in my pistol classes is for some reason when some people grip a pistol or revolver they fled thier lats and neck muscles like they are not n a body building contest! That'll put you low and right or left depending every time and as the muscles fatigue the groups open up sometimes by feet! Remember it's a total system, grip stance hold breath sight picture/alignment consist trigger manipulation and follow through! I'd agree with shooting specials until you master the platform! For normal handgun hunting distance you don't give up much in accuracy over longer barreled revolvers and the 4 5/8 is a dream to carry! By chance what color is your front sight? Red,orange white all work for some but I've found most do best with black.
You need to look at steel shooters with veins bulging and strength. Jerry with a revolver, no wimp hold. "Roll" a gun, NOT.

[44man]

I have taught many to shoot. I go backwards and give them a big gun first. Much fear shown but with instruction they come to love the gun and hit all targets. Then I drop to the little .44 mag and they think different and master the gun.
The best was a friends son, scared to death of my gun but I got him shooting it. He hit at 50 off hand and fell in love. Then took his dads .454 and busted water bottles at 100 off hand. He wants a .500 JRH now. I quit from a .22 up. Your mind will fall apart with the anticipation of recoil. A .38 is the start of flinch.

[Thumbcocker]

I keep a pair of $3 vinyl coated garden gloves in my rage bag. The right handed one has the index finger cut out. Very handy for long strings of kicking loads. Absolutely prevents gun from rotating.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate all the responses and ideas.

I normally do end up shooting to the left with most guns. I have big hands, but short fingers by comparison. With the single six, im capable of coke cans at 25 yards consistently, even on end.

I have been shooting a combination of specials and magnums, and saw a marked improvement when I started shooting a lot of specials.

I also noticed that i get tense in the shoulders shooting it, as I know im uncomfortable with the level of recoil of the gun. I can shoot all day with my 45 or a 357 full sized gun. So i've got to work on that. I noticed it wasnt as bad when I was shooting mostly specials.

Specials are at a level im comfortable with, but im getting more comfortable with the magnums.

[Lloyd Smale]

yup let it roll!!
For an SA revolver with any kind of recoil, you don't want a death grip. You want the gun to 'roll' a little in your hand, and rubber or finger-groove grips don't allow that. It sounds like you're on the right path, and have already tightened your shot group up significantly. I have the same gun, and they're not as forgiving as the longer barrel revolvers. Keep practicing!

[44MAG#1]

If a type of grip helps your shooting but they aren't pretty go with the grips that help. If you want a show gun buy a show gun. The Ruger 44 Mag you have isn't a show gun. I have a couple. Recoil? You will find you handle recoil with the mind. While some guns are more comfortable to shoot such as a 22LR as opposed to a Smith 500 recoil is still handled by the mind once you realize you can hang on to it.
Let her roll, not let her roll blah blah blah. Just do what YOU do consistantly. Holding tight one shot and loose the next is NOT the way to shoot. Trigger control, trigger control. Period.
Oh yes, after observing many people shoot at the local ranges I have found one thing. That is, If one can shoot well one can shoot well regardless of barrel length if one can't shoot well one can't shoot well. Barrel length has almost no bearing on it as long as one has decent sights to use on the gun.

[DougGuy]

Get a roll of that 1" wide stretchy bandage stuff and wrap the middle finger knuckle.. Shooting gloves all have the padding where the gun doesn't hurt you. Lotta good that does.

Now. Let me ask you this. In dry fire, can you hold the sights motionless? If not, this is what's wrong with your groups. First off, remove the grip panels and pull one leg of the trigger return spring off it's pin, reinstall the grip panels and try it like this. The goal is to dry fire the gun and hold the sights motionless. Take a mental snapshot of the sights the moment the hammer falls. What did the front sight do? Did it dip down and to the left? Then the boolit that would have been fired, hit low and to the left.

Curl your trigger finger a bit to the right when you pull the trigger. This will help you hold the sights still. Not quite standing stock still when the hammer falls after pulling one leg of the spring off? Swap in a Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring from Brownell's. This will help a LOT. Still not staying still? Pull one leg of this lighter spring off and try again.

By now, you should have gotten the basics of the dry fire drill down. DON'T force the trigger, pull evenly on it, if the sights drift off bullseye, hold steady until they drift back to bullseye and resume pressing on the trigger. Let the shot be a SURPRISE to you. DON'T anticipate it, it will learn you to flinch which opens groups by multiples of 3s and 4s.

When you can dry fire the gun and hold the sights motionless, your groups will have shrunk tremendously. THIS is what is required to master a SA revolver. That long hammer fall has to be controlled and you use the dry fire exercise to learn your hands to do this. Keep a mental note of exactly how you held the gun and the exact movement of your trigger finger and go live fire the gun. This also works for a 1911, or any other single action handgun.

DON'T worry so much about the grip, do what feels natural to you, the key is to let the gun move the same way every time in the hands. It's all about consistency. The gun WILL recoil in your hands, let it do the same physical motion from shot to shot.

Good luck, this bit of wit has helped many shooters tighten groups.

Also check out the gun's mechanics. Can you slide a boolit through the cylinder throats from the front? If not, there's part of the issue, the cylinder is sizing the boolits down before they even get out of the case. Is there just too much creep in the trigger? Might want to send a PM if you are interested in correcting any of the typical culprits that ship installed free from the factory..

[44MAG#1]

Dry firing may work if one is not afraid of recoil. If one is jumpy because of recoil it is iffy if it helps. No one has ever described how snapping an unloaded gun that one knows isn't going to go boom and recoil works. I don't think they ever will really.

[DougGuy]

No one has ever described how snapping an unloaded gun that one knows isn't going to go boom and recoil works. I don't think they ever will really.

I just did that. This is the whole point of dry fire. It is a simple and undeniable FACT that wherever the sights were aligned? That's where the boolit went should it have been in live fire. Dry fire teaches the shooter how to remove the variable and improve accuracy. In live fire you don't see your mistakes. In dry fire you see them perfectly and can address them in a manner that will improve your groups measurably.

[44MAG#1]

No you didn't explain it. You explained problem solving something that has nothing to do with BEING AFRAID OF RECOIL. You explained the solving of the problem of sight alignment and trigger control of someone who ISNT AFRAID OR RECOIL BUT HAS SIGHT ALIGNMENT AND TRIGGER CONTROL PROBLEMS unrelated,to the seperate problem of jerking the trigger and pushing the gun when the shooter knows there is going to be a bang with RESULTING RECOIL. Different things entirely.

[44man]

Dry firing may work if one is not afraid of recoil. If one is jumpy because of recoil it is iffy if it helps. No one has ever described how snapping an unloaded gun that one knows isn't going to go boom and recoil works. I don't think they ever will really.
I agree, dry fire has little use once a live round is in the chamber. It is all hogwash. Had an old timer here that never could hit a deer. I had him dry fire and he was steady as all get out. I loaded the gun and he cut tater furrows in front of him like crazy.
It is why I teach with larger guns first.
I have never seen anyone dry fire do the same with live fire.
Light triggers drive me nuts. My revolvers have triggers so light it is crazy, 19 oz on a few. Most average 1-1/2#. Off hand, they don't want to go off. Soon gun weight comes in but the finger seems to be stuck. Now for deer I never remember pulling at all, shot is gone with the right picture. Same with archery, never remember string gone. Full auto. I can't take a creepy trigger or a hard pull but even a very light one on paper sticks.
I do not believe dry fire is any help, only loss of fear of recoil works.
A new shooter comes here, he gets the .500 JRH first. Soon he is hitting and then I go down to the little .44 mag to see wonderful groups. Start with a .22 or dry fire but even a .38 live round makes a guy flinch.
Beat the gun to death with a dry fire picture and I bet you will flinch with a live round. Your brain is stupid and knows the gun is live. Load with empties and live in a revolver and watch a guy.

[44MAG#1]

44man,
On what you said I completely agree. Some arent afraid of recoil but have problems standing still. I do now. Weave and bobble a lot. Some have target panic. When they see the sights moving etc. they try to time the pull so when the sights or dot swing through the center of the bull they jerk the trigger. That is entirely different than being afraid of recoil. Some have a tough time knowing the difference between the two. Hence to the one that can't tell they recommend dry firing as the cure. Like saying one pill is a cure for all diseases.
Wouldnt that be nice? Just taking one pill that would cover all diseases. Maybe we could explain dryfiring to the drug companies as to how it cures all ailments of shooting so the could come up with one drug for all diseases. Everything from common colds to Cancer. All at twenty five cents a pill.

[44man]

44man,
On what you said I completely agree. Some arent afraid of recoil but have problems standing still. I do now. Weave and bobble a lot. Some have target panic. When they see the sights moving etc. they try to time the pull so when the sights or dot swing through the center of the bull they jerk the trigger. That is entirely different than being afraid of recoil. Some have a tough time knowing the difference between the two. Hence to the one that can't tell they recommend dry firing as the cure. Like saying one pill is a cure for all diseases.
Wouldnt that be nice? Just taking one pill that would cover all diseases. Maybe we could explain dryfiring to the drug companies as to how it cures all ailments of shooting so the could come up with one drug for all diseases. Everything from common colds to Cancer. All at twenty five cents a pill.
That is entirely true. I experienced it all my life. Move with a shake and make the gun fire as it passes the dot----MISS, MISS. My best shooting was to ignore movement and just break the trigger without making the gun shoot. No person on earth can hold still and age makes it worse.
Yanking a trigger will never hit. Even the super fast steel shooters have trigger control.

[Bazoo]

I dont have a problem dry firing, I can rest a penny on the front sight and dry fire without it falling off. I dont think I have a problem with flinching, as I can tell when I do flinch and pull a shot. Im relaxed and do well with specials, not as well as my moms single six however.

Inconsistency in the grip strength, and getting tense in the shoulders in anticipation of the recoil is my problems I think. I was allowing the gun to roll in my hand, But It was either jumping back and battering my knuckles, or rolling too far back and biting the web of my hand. So I began firming my grip more, which is not what im used to with the single six.

With the single six, I did a 1 1/2" group at 15 yards a few months back. With the super blackhawk, with specials, it opens up to 2 1/2 or 3 inches, and maybe 4 inches with magnum groups.

So im still working on keeping my grip consistent. But i do notice my shoulders getting tight, and when I get tired, my groups opening up. So im still working to get comfortable with the gun.

I am determined to master it though.

I dont shoot much past 50 yards with a handgun, but I can get 6" groups with the single six or my 45 at that distance.

[Blackwater]

Doug gives good advice, as usual. Dry firing CAN help to a HUGE degree IF it's practiced regularly so as to habituate your muscles and create a good, unflinching muscle memory. There really IS no "short course" to becoming a fine pistol shot. It'll take practice, unless you're very unusually gifted at it. Every great shot I know HAD to learn to shoot well. Not one shot all that great from the beginning. Good instruction helps a lot, and there's a lot more bad advice out there than there is good information. The one sure way to tell if advice is good or not is on the range. If it works, it's good (providing only that you actually DID what was shown/advised, of course). If it doesn't, forget it unless something makes you want to try it again later. As you learn grip, hold and squeeze, you'll improve, and the improvement can come in degrees or sudden leaps. Once you do it right, and see the results, you'll smile, and KEEP trying to do it that same way every time. That's when you're really leaning and improving.

Good shots aren't born, they're made, in almost all cases. Even the "natural" shots started off with excellent instruction, and they listened and did what they were told. Most folks are more reactive to the muzzle blast than to actual recoil, and a short barreled .44 is a real "boomer." You also might try some lighter loads with something like Unique for a while, and work your way up to the full loads. That tends to work for folks who react to the blast, at least. Holding an "explosion" at arm's length is NOT a "natural act," and there's no shame in reacting to it. However, one MUST learn to ignore it, and that can vary in how long it takes any given individual to learn to ignore it. Ear plugs plus muffs are a big help there. I routinely wear both when shooting a .44 because I already have tinnitus and don't want to lose what hearing I have left, so if it's "sissy" to wear plugs and muffs (good, high Db rating ones!), then paint me with sissy paint. But I've lost too much of my hearing already. Let the macho types say "eh?" when they get old and can't hear an airplane taking off!

Other than this, grips CAN definitely make a big difference. I have a 4 5/8" SB and it's got the SB grip frame, which I like. It also has some slightly oversize stag grips on it, which I also like and shoot better than the much thinner factory grips. Usually, grips that are thicker up top, behind the trigger, help most with fairly large to large hands, shoot better with SA's, regardless of grip formation. I've always been a big fan of Gary Reeder's grips, with their rounded off "points" at heel and toe. Very easy and fast to grab, and the larger girth at top tends to help handle recoil. I want to get some curly maple and make a set of "custom" grips for several of my SA Rugers, but haven't pulled the trigger on that just yet. Might even try rounding the bottom "points" on the grips, a' la' Reeder's grips.

Ultimately, handgun use is much more dependent on the grips fitting the shooter's hands than most realize, and there's no way any factory can make them fit everyone, so ... we get an "approximation" of what might at least allow many people to shoot them at least fairly well.

Really, managing recoil and our natural fear of loud booms, and learning to fell the hammer without disturbing our aim, is what it's all about. Good, well fitting grips help with that, and can allow most of us achieve our best a bit quicker and probably a bit more consistently, but good custom grips CAN be expensive. Someone here recommended Altamont Grips to me and I got a couple of pairs for my Flat Tops, and they're pretty good. You might give them a try. Their prices are about as good as you'll find, and workmanship is good to boot. From them, you should be able to learn just what it is that you really want in a grip. If I order them, I usually specify they be oversize, and then sand them down slowly until I've got what works and fits me best. Takes a while, but it's worth all the "trouble." Sure beats shooting with grips that don't fit me quite right,and helps me be more consistent. It's just the way things really are with handguns, I think.

[44MAG#1]

Anticipation of recoil means one thing. Flinching. Play the ball and dummy game and see it that is it.
Best to let a friend load the live and dummies so you won't know.
Then get back to us.

[Bazoo]

Get a roll of that 1" wide stretchy bandage stuff and wrap the middle finger knuckle.. Shooting gloves all have the padding where the gun doesn't hurt you. Lotta good that does.

Now. Let me ask you this. In dry fire, can you hold the sights motionless? If not, this is what's wrong with your groups. First off, remove the grip panels and pull one leg of the trigger return spring off it's pin, reinstall the grip panels and try it like this. The goal is to dry fire the gun and hold the sights motionless. Take a mental snapshot of the sights the moment the hammer falls. What did the front sight do? Did it dip down and to the left? Then the boolit that would have been fired, hit low and to the left.

Curl your trigger finger a bit to the right when you pull the trigger. This will help you hold the sights still. Not quite standing stock still when the hammer falls after pulling one leg of the spring off? Swap in a Wolff 30oz. trigger return spring from Brownell's. This will help a LOT. Still not staying still? Pull one leg of this lighter spring off and try again.

By now, you should have gotten the basics of the dry fire drill down. DON'T force the trigger, pull evenly on it, if the sights drift off bullseye, hold steady until they drift back to bullseye and resume pressing on the trigger. Let the shot be a SURPRISE to you. DON'T anticipate it, it will learn you to flinch which opens groups by multiples of 3s and 4s.

When you can dry fire the gun and hold the sights motionless, your groups will have shrunk tremendously. THIS is what is required to master a SA revolver. That long hammer fall has to be controlled and you use the dry fire exercise to learn your hands to do this. Keep a mental note of exactly how you held the gun and the exact movement of your trigger finger and go live fire the gun. This also works for a 1911, or any other single action handgun.

DON'T worry so much about the grip, do what feels natural to you, the key is to let the gun move the same way every time in the hands. It's all about consistency. The gun WILL recoil in your hands, let it do the same physical motion from shot to shot.

Good luck, this bit of wit has helped many shooters tighten groups.

Also check out the gun's mechanics. Can you slide a boolit through the cylinder throats from the front? If not, there's part of the issue, the cylinder is sizing the boolits down before they even get out of the case. Is there just too much creep in the trigger? Might want to send a PM if you are interested in correcting any of the typical culprits that ship installed free from the factory..

I can push a bullet into the throats, the trigger is pretty decent, crisp, i'd guess about 4 1/2 pounds knowing my 1911 has a 5 pound pull. I do have a constriction at the theads. Im not sure how much, from the tightness when slugging, i'd say a smidge.

I've been working to get a consistent grip with the gun. I have held it enough, for long enough during periods that it now feels off whenever my grip is not in the correct spot. Im still working on getting consistency in the force of the grip though.

[Bazoo]

On several occasions, i have done several live rounds, with empties to help overcome flinching, and I dont have a problem with it now. Thats how i got my groups to improve thus far. But i still have problems with getting tense in the shoulders, and not allowing my arms to move under recoil, unless I concentrate on it.

[Texas by God]

I never kept a Super Blackhawk because I don't like the grip. The same with Bisleys. I prefer the standard model. That said the Pachmayers will help you and they're not AS ugly as Houges IMO.

[Lloyd Smale]

I'm with 44 man. Never saw a big improvement in shooting by having someone dry fire a gun unless they never shot a gun before or did rarely. About any novice instantly changes everything when live rounds are going off and that's what you have to work at. Stand there and watch him well while hes shooting. Maybe start with lighter loads and work up to the real heavys. I think most of us that shoot a lot will say that we don't put much thought into pulling the trigger. Its something we just learned over the years until its kind of an instinct. Being afraid of a gun is what you need to cure not jerking the trigger because its being afraid of the gun that causes it. Work up slowly and shoot a few thousand rounds and you will suddenly have a light bulb go off in your head because you realize that yes this thing bucks and barks but it really doesn't cause you pain. When you get to that point you can then perfect your trigger pull because you can actually consentrate on it not the recoil

[Thumbcocker]

"Ultimately, handgun use is much more dependent on the grips fitting the shooter's hands than most realize, and there's no way any factory can make them fit everyone, so ... we get an "approximation" of what might at least allow many people to shoot them at least fairly well."


I absolutely agree. A handgun is a personal thing so make yours fit you.

[Blackwater]

On several occasions, i have done several live rounds, with empties to help overcome flinching, and I dont have a problem with it now. Thats how i got my groups to improve thus far. But i still have problems with getting tense in the shoulders, and not allowing my arms to move under recoil, unless I concentrate on it.

You're on the right track, and progressing. Just don't give up, and you'll be a real shootist before long. A good, firm grip on grips that pretty closely fit your hand, and a trigger squeeze that doesn't let the barrel move on the sear's release, and sight alignment, are pretty much all there is to it, really. But simple is not the same as "easy," and learning to keep just the right, consistent and firm grip, keeping your forearms fairly stiff, and your focus on your sights, is a real learning experience. Focus matters, as do all the other factors. Learning the right "feel" of the grip and forearms is an acquired thing, that has to come from practice. It MIGHT help to use midrange loads until you get accurate with them, but that doesn't always work. With a .44, I always wear plugs AND muffs, and that helps more than most are willing to believe.

You're on the right track. Just keep striving until you arrive at the Station. I'm betting that won't be nearly as long as you think it will be, too.

[Bazoo]

Thats for the advice and encouragement Blackwater, and everyone. When shooting specials, I do pretty decent. Then, when i switch to magnums, I do okay for a few cylinders, and then start back pulling left, getting tense, being inconsistent. So I then switch back to specials and do good again. I aint gave up yet, but its definitely been the hardest time i've ever had trying to get decent with any handgun.

[Blackwater]

Sounds like the muzzle blast is getting to you, and maybe fatigue from recoil as well. Try this. Before continuing, just relax, and I mean REALLY get yourself relaxed, and resign yourself definitively to just letting the gun buck when you shoot. Use plugs and muffs to deal with the blast. You'll thank yourself for this later in life when you have no or very little ringing in your ears! The magnum pistols are the worst offenders of all in creating tinnitus, but it's too late for me now. I didn't follow that advice early on, and now, that permanent ringing in my ears is a constant thing, that NEVER goes away!

The biggest factor for many (myself included at times) in learning to shoot the magnums consistently is in training ourselves to be constantly relaxed before pulling the trigger. This allows your muscles to learn the memory of the feel of the right grip you've chosen to use, and therein, leads you to better shooting more quickly.

My primary problem in shooting a shotgun is that I'm so prone to being excited (I LOVE shooting the shotgun!) that I tighten up and thus, stop my swing on pulling the trigger. I've shot behind more birds and targets than many have even SEEN! It's a constant problem for me to relax when shooting a shotgun. The anticipation and fun of it just overwhelms me. But it's so much fun, I don't even put forth all the effort to "cure" it that I probably should. For me, shotgun shooting is "play," and rifle and pistol shooting is more business-like. I guess we all have our little foibles in this? That's just mine. But get me in competition, and I usually do better than I do simply shooting for fun. As has been said, the biggest six inches in doing many things is between our ears. Attitude and intentions are always a BIG factor in shooting! But we CAN learn. And I just need to settle myself down with the shotgun and be a little more serious .... at least more often?

[Tar Heel]

I would suggest putting the wood smooth grips back on the gun to let the grip/gun slip a little in your grasp like a clutch. I also use a shooting glove on both hands when shooting my hard kicking wood gripped handguns. I use the gloves to reduce the "slap" one gets in the hand. A firm grip is requisite - NOT a death grip or a loose grip. Allow the gun to recoil.

193477

https://youtu.be/ZhAE6CPSlOU

[bearcove]

Just throw in a random 2, 3, or 4 in when you shoot. You will see your real flinch when you dry fire.

[Bazoo]

Yeah, thats what I do bearcove. sometimes I'll flinch, sometimes, not. It does help though.

[44man]

Just throw in a random 2, 3, or 4 in when you shoot. You will see your real flinch when you dry fire.
That is the best way, I load the gun for friends so they can't guess where a live one is.

[Rick R]

I have that same pistol. The rubber Hogues made a huge improvement in shootabillity and accuracy over the OEM grips. I replaced the rubber duckies with wooden single finger groove Hogues and things got better.

The 4 5/8" SBH is a wonderful little cannon once you fit it to your hands.

[44man]

I always had trouble with S&W, RH and Bisley. I can never get the same feel or grip. I get along fine with a SA and Pachmeyer grips. The Uncle Mikes on my BFR's feel the same.
The S&W 29 was the worst, just setting the gun down between groups would move the whole group 10". I had 5 or 6 over the years, all shot tight but moved down the road. I would center all 5 chickens at IHMSA and miss the next 5. Consider 10" at 50 was 40" at 200. To shoot a 20 was tough.
Gun fit counts a lot. With my SBH I could shift on the grip as distance changed without missing.
Now a SRH just needs a firm hold.

[Bazoo]

I figured that id get good with the super blackhawk a lot quicker than I am, on count of being a fine shot with a single six. My SBH has the short grip, so its identical in feel. And I've owned several blackhawks in 357 and never had a problem hitting well with them. Recoil, and I suppose muzzle blast is the factors that really get me. Although im getting more used to it, and in turn, becoming more proficient with the the SBH, I still have a ways to go. Im determined to get it though, even if I dont shoot a full diet of full power loads.

I did check back over my load data, and It seems that I am more close to the max than I had previously thought. In my load books usa manual, the Accurate data shows different than it does on the current Accurate website, or the other data that I have in regards to the AA9 i've been using. I dont have a powder measure at present, and have been loading using lee dippers. Which is the reason for the charge weight i've been using.

I appreciate all the advice and encouragement.

[Blackwater]

Those shorter barreled .44's can really be a bear, especially for us who already have that ringing in our ears 24/7. After the ringing began, I was using my .44 to limb trees for stands I'd put up. Works great, but all that blast made me start carrying plugs and muffs to do that sort of thing. I learned too late what muzzle blast can do. An old gunsmith here of note, who died at 90+ and was STILL a fine shot, couldn't communicate worth a darn because he couldn't hear a tank running if he was sitting on the front of it! Our ears do NOT just shrug off loud blasts for very long, and the damage is permanent and cumulative. Each time we shoot, we're also shooting our hearing. It's not a natural act for a man to hold something out at arm's length and then have it "explode" suddenly and very loudly, and NOT flinch! One CAN learn to do this, but it'll never really be a natural act. Just hang in there. You're doing all the right things. All you need is just a little more time.

And when you master that short .44, you'll find that you can shoot just about any gun you pick up well, too, and that ain't no small thing! Sure opens up some vistas for your purchases and joyful shooting in the future!

[Bazoo]

I have some friends that shoot paper plate sized groups with 9mms at 10 or 15 yards, and I think... dang man. I generally plink. Over the years I have moved from coffee cans, to coke cans, to shotgun shells at 15 yards. Hard to believe folks have a hard time with 9mm's and 38's in a blackhawk, makes me thankful im as good as I am.

[fivefang]

.44 man ,I agree when .44 fist appeared it was claimed to push a 240gr GC 2 1600 fps. in'55 or was it'56 I got my first .44 6.5" Blackhawk #11114 the Thompson 215 gr Gc. with 27.5gr Herc .2400,that is what taught me to forget about recoil, yes I had a "Ace" trigger shoe & a very light trigger also removed metal from the hammer, yea, I did crack the Cylinder, but not with the above load, Ruger replaced the cylinder for the 2nd. owner, now @83 I shoot 21.5 wc 820 with that same bullet in my 7.5 3screw & my 7.5" SS Redhawk, both my shoulders are destroyed, but am still having fun, Fivefang

[44man]

.44 man ,I agree when .44 fist appeared it was claimed to push a 240gr GC 2 1600 fps. in'55 or was it'56 I got my first .44 6.5" Blackhawk #11114 the Thompson 215 gr Gc. with 27.5gr Herc .2400,that is what taught me to forget about recoil, yes I had a "Ace" trigger shoe & a very light trigger also removed metal from the hammer, yea, I did crack the Cylinder, but not with the above load, Ruger replaced the cylinder for the 2nd. owner, now @83 I shoot 21.5 wc 820 with that same bullet in my 7.5 3screw & my 7.5" SS Redhawk, both my shoulders are destroyed, but am still having fun, Fivefang
Yeah, there was no brass at the start so I bought factory loads just for brass. OH, MY, talk about recoil from a FT! My loads were pleasant compared. I got used to the gun.
We shot DA with the S&W 29's with tires rolled down a hill with cardboard stuffed in the center. We got good but my hand would be checkered.
Once after shooting at a gravel pit, a guy stopped to talk and said he had a powerful gun, a P38. Chuckle! I handed him the FT and pointed to a 55 gal drum, said shoot the drum. He almost got clocked in the head and left white faced without a word. That was in 57 and like Elmer, "Hell, I was there." My love of the .44 is forever. To see me shoot less then it can do will not be. Yeah I did it a few times with Unique and 231 for cans but I hunt with the guns so must be in shape all year.
Step back in time, first shot with a FT made me wonder if the gun blew up. Those factory loads were something else. That FT was on my hip fishing and hunting all over Ohio but we could not hunt deer with it. Chucks and varmints were game though. I used it for chucks to 100 yards, .222 to 300 and the Swift to almost 700. Always had 3 guns in the car. Spot a chuck, choose the gun and go into the field. It was a great time. Snag a 30# carp, drag it in and blast it with the .44. Ever see fish eggs hanging from trees?
The worst I did, did not involve a gun. I had a huge carp on the ground and there was a tree that fell by the river. I went up and jumped on the carp. My friend was close and he had eggs and guts all over him. Yeah, I was rotten to the core.

[Cold Trigger Finger]

Well, this has been a very good read. I've been working for a month now . So we r starting to get caught back up money wise. My knees are still working , so that is a great thing. I've always liked the Ruger Bisley grip , hammer and trigger, so, baring any stupid buys on my part , that will be what I get. To the OP. If you are still loading with the Lee dippers, you really owe it to yourself to get a scale and powder charger. You don't have to spend a lot . just a 750 gr electronic scale and a Lee powder charger. U can spend more but those 2 items will work and give you good service.
I've had a number of 4 5/8" barrelled Blackhawk and SBhs. And a Bisley in 44 mag , 45 Colt, 4@ mag and 357 mag. I was never a good shot with any of them. But I packed them constantly for bear protection. And they did their job. I could hit better with longer barrelled handguns . From the look of it u r on the right path, just keep ater.

[Bazoo]

Thanks for the post, and encouragement CTF. I aint given up on it, to the contrary, I been falling in love with the .429 bore all over again.

I have a good scale, an rcbs 505, sent to me by a feller here after my house burnt down. I do need a measure still though. I had a lee perfect powder measure, and it worked well, so i'll probably get another.

I do okay with a short barrel. Not as good as with a longer barrel.

~Bazoo