Cocking assist

[crabo]

I am thinking about tig welding about 1/8" of metal to the rear of the cocking serration on my 22/45. I would leave the grooves, but just build up the last two sections.

Everything I have found to add on, in my opinion looks terrible. I can easily do the work. Is there any reason why this would be a bad idea, other than doing a crappy job? Is the bolt hardened?

[GhostHawk]

Personally I hate to see a gun welded on without a dang good reason.
Not sure why, it just does not seem right. Disrespectful even.

So with that in mind, here is what a few minutes of google found for me for your perusal.
If you are not happy with that, ok. But instead of welding on your bolt why not make an add on of your own? Cut to the shape you desire, make it so it dovetails onto the bolt and secures with a set screw. When you are dead, or gun is sold the new owner has the option of leave it or remove it with no major damage done to the gun.

In the end it is your gun, your choice. But you won't live forever. Someone else somewhere is going to have to live with the choices you make.


http://www.eabco.net/Ruger-Mk-I-II-III-Bolt-Racker-Handle_p_14230.html



(http://www.eabco.net/Ruger-Mk-I-II-III-Bolt-Racker-Handle_p_14230.html)

[cheese1566]

Same boat about not welding.

myself, I would make the add on like the one above, or at least do what your thinking and maybe drill and tap a small hole on the bolt rear to attach your bar. That way it could be removed in the future if you liked and the holes filled in with filler screws. Like scope mount screws....

[crabo]

What I am talking about is adding a strip about 1/8" wide, by 1/8" on each side to the cocking serrations. I'm not talking about adding a big lever. I feel like adding this is no different than tigging a magwell onto my 1911 and finishing it out.

[ulav8r]

Do it, but make sure it does not interfere with holster fit.

[Walkingwolf]

Are you having difficulty cocking your 22/45?

[JSnover]

http://www.eabco.net/Ruger-Mk-I-II-III-Bolt-Racker-Handle_p_14230.html



(http://www.eabco.net/Ruger-Mk-I-II-III-Bolt-Racker-Handle_p_14230.html)
How hard would it be to grind off that enormous handle and just leave the rectangular block? Looks like it would give the OP what he wants without any welding.

[country gent]

Adding weight to the bolt by welding or adding blocks to the sides may affect function and reliability due to the added mass. a second bolt could have the ears turned off leaving a stub 1/2"-3/4 dia And roughly 1/4" long and the new ears machined then pressed in place with no welding required. Otherwise I think turning the ears round and smooth then soldering the new inserts on and machiningthem in place would work

[crabo]

How hard would it be to grind off that enormous handle and just leave the rectangular block? Looks like it would give the OP what he wants without any welding.
This is a pretty slick idea. It would certainly tell me if that is what I wanted to do.

[zubrato]

Have you looked at the tandemkross Halo charging handle? I asked for one without their logo and love it. It's a little pricey for 50 bucks but it doesn't affect reliability and works great.


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[JSnover]

Adding weight to the bolt by welding or adding blocks to the sides may affect function and reliability due to the added mass.
Good point. Does anybody know if the bolt racker handle is steel or aluminum? Looks like there's enough material for a couple of lightening cuts or holes. As a bolt-on part if it didn't work out at least it's easy to remove.

[crabo]

Actually, what I should do, is a little careful file work, or chuck it up in a lathe, and change the profile from type 2 to type 1 in the EAB cocking assist, and I would have what I want. Just a little more to grab.

http://www.eabco.net/Ruger-Mk-I-II-III-Bolt-Racker-Handle_p_14230.html

[contender1]

First off,,, it is your firearm,, and you can modify it any way you desire.

But I too fall into the group of folks who prefer to see guns that haven't been welded on, filed, cut, or modified in a way to alter the "as shipped" condition. I'm currently helping a deceased friends estate try & place a value on some guns for the courts & such. Sadly, the owner of them loved to file, cut, modify, glue, & screw on stuff a lot. One of the guns we are evaluating is a NRA Centennial Colt Gold Cup. Can we say that due to the condition & mods,,, we are only able to value this gun at $500. IF,,, IF it had not been modified, it would be worth a lot more. I am trying HARD to convince 3 women who are NOT gun people, who have looked at web sites & seen "values" much higher & fail to grasp the reasons the gun isn't worth what these others are. And,,, I am NOT trying to buy them,,, just help them assign a value for the courts,,, and for the eventual auction.

My point is that maybe you should consider a part that you can add to the bolt, and modify THAT part to suit your purposes. An easily removed aftermarket part doesn't remove value to the gun.