Anti seize

[TCLouis]

Title about says it all.

What do you uses for anti - seize treatment on barrel threads when you install a barrel?

Same for BP as well as Smokeless?

[Texas by God]

John Deere labeled gray anti -seize. It works.

[B R Shooter]

I think most any anti-seize would be about the same. Permatex brand sold in auto parts stores does fine. BUT, it is messy! It gets on everything. Use sparingly. And don't forget to put some on the shoulder of the barrel too, not just therads.

[bob208]

I use the permatex on everything. it does migrate. I start with a bit on my finger then it goes to another. then up the hand after a bit with no problem at all it is past the elbows.

[nekshot]

when John Deere ran out I got Permatex and only diff is John Deere was stiffer.

[OS OK]

If you mix anti seize with 50% motor oil, it will be the best thread cutting (tapping) lubricant you ever used.

[B R Shooter]

I use the permatex on everything. it does migrate. I start with a bit on my finger then it goes to another. then up the hand after a bit with no problem at all it is past the elbows.

Exactly! That's why I don't use it. Many other suitable lubes for barrels. Any grease that is used to lube locking lugs will do fine on barrel threads. EP grade.

[Jniedbalski]

The aluminum anti seize works good.I have also used the copper base anti size also good. It is supposed to be better at higher temp but might be hard to find. I have had my bottle for over 20 years.

[Texas by God]

A little do go a long way. I will lose the can before I use it all.

[country gent]

Choke tube lubes work well also.

[PTCSmith]

Use a good, High Pressure grease on barrel threads. I have a tub of "Super Lube" which is a white (clear) grease with Teflon added which may last me the rest of my life. it sits right next to the barrel vise in my shop. Even chassis lube will work fine for barrels. Anti-seize tends to be very messy and gets all over anything within 12 feet of it.

[flyingrhino]

Graphite suspended in alcohol. That's what we used on valve caps in the Nuclear power plants. Thin coat. Doesn't migrate.

[gishooter]

Bostick brand copper or nicklel. I have both. Any of the major brands will be good. VERY light application with a single stroke of a little acid brush.

[Speedo66]

I use anti-seize on the slide rails of my Glock also, came from the factory with some on them.

[C. Latch]

Be careful using graphite lubes on anything aluminum, such as an AR15 receiver. Graphite and aluminum are fine together *unless exposed to salt or saltwater* at which point galvanic corrosion could start and ruin an upper.

It's mainly a theoretical problem, rarely a real issue, but for the same money you can get a non-graphite grease that eliminates the possibility.

[robg]

Use copperslip over here its lead and copper grease can stand high temperature on brake pins etc

[Shawlerbrook]

I would think that the black power breech plug anti seize would work.

[tdoyka]

i have used it on my tc encore's blackpowder breech, on screws that go into a scope base and screws that go into open sights. never did a barrel, tho it will do the same thing.

[KCSO]

In 1970 I got a gallon can of molly lube grease, still using it and it should be all gone about 2070. Use it on barrel threads and as Garand grease.

[RED333]

I use anti seize everyday on all bolts, screws, nuts and anything that moves across metal. Yes on my firearms as well. Some times I work on steam fittings, I use the copper, good to 1800 F, wont melt out of the threads.

[imashooter2]

I got an 8 ounce bottle of Permatex 80078 aluminum anti seize 30+ years ago. It shouldn't last more than 3 or 4 more lifetimes.

[John 242]

Permatex aluminum anti seize but always open to new ideas.

I've used the copper version, but was always afraid it was inferior to the aluminum. Apparently it's not?
Maybe it's a psychological thing? Silver being more valuable than bronze...

I always get the silver stuff everywhere, but I do the same with molly grease, inletting black and just about anything else. Just lighting a cutting torch I end up looking like... a person with black stuff on their face.

[BigEyeBob]

Neva Seez , nickle based is what Ive used for over 40 years , the the original squeeze bottle I bought 40 years ago is still 1/3 full . A little bit goes along way .
Used extensively in the mining industry here.Very good on stainless steel bolts , which have a bad habit of thread galling and siezing if no lube is used on them when first assembled .

[alamogunr]

I picked a 2/3 full one pound can from the trash at work about 15 years ago. Don't know why they threw it away. It has sat on a shelf in the shop since. I use it on all kinds of threads. I've had good luck using it on sprue plate screws. Someone, I think it was here, suggested using anti-seize on light bulb bases, especially those in outdoor locations. Works like a charm except sometimes you get it on your clothes if you forget about it when changing bulbs. It should be more required now that CF and LED bulbs are so prevalent. They last so long that corrosion would definitely be a problem.

[kokomokid]

If you go SS on SS threads use nickle base antiseze.

[alamogunr]

How do I tell if what I have is nickle based? Is it a listed component? BTW my can is labeled Never Seez.

[BigEyeBob]

How do I tell if what I have is nickle based? Is it a listed component? BTW my can is labeled Never Seez.

Nickle based is a dull grey colour,where as aluminium is a lot brighter.almost white silver colour.Never Seez would be nickle based.

[imashooter2]

How do I tell if what I have is nickle based? Is it a listed component? BTW my can is labeled Never Seez.

Have you tried Google? There are several different formulations.

[10-x]

Use toothpick or broom straw to apply to Inside of threads, keeps things cleaner. We used to get even with the toolroom guy when he gave on of us techs a hard time. His phone was by the window, ( old black dialtype). Would wait till he went to restroom, coat the earpiece with prussian bluing, then have someone call him, blue ear for a day!

[alamogunr]

Use toothpick or broom straw to apply to Inside of threads, keeps things cleaner. We used to get even with the toolroom guy when he gave on of us techs a hard time. His phone was by the window, ( old black dialtype). Would wait till he went to restroom, coat the earpiece with prussian bluing, then have someone call him, blue ear for a day!

Back in the 70's I was assigned temporarily to a sister plant in Michigan. A lot of us were because of mammoth losses and employee problems. I was assigned to the shop floor on night shift to liaison between manufacturing and maintenance. One night a PA announcement requested me to call some number so I went to the nearest phone and grabbed the handset and started dialing. Nobody answered. As I walked away, there was a lot of laughing. I had an earful of paste layout blue. I had "blue ear" for several days.

[BigEyeBob]

did similar to the maintenance engineer at a mine I worked at in the early 80,s .This guy was a strutting rooster type . Got the underside of the door handles on his company car coated with Never Sieze.

[David2011]

All of the anti-seize I've used was aluminum, copper or lead based. The lead based variety was designed for joining drill collars, the first few joints of a drill string that go in the hole when drilling gas and oil wells. The heat and pressure they encounter are enormous. Down hole temperatures can exceed 500 degrees F. Lead, being a metal of very low nobility, is unlikely to promote corrosion as well. Bestolife 270 is one trade name. It only comes in large packages so the only practical way of getting it is to know someone in oilfield drilling or power plant maintenance. A few fluid ounces would be a lifetime supply.

If if screwing into aluminum I prefer aluminum anti-seize to reduce the chance of corrosion. For guns, copper suits most needs. Nickel based is good just about everywhere.

When installing spark plugs in aluminum heads the aluminum anti-seize will prevent galling. You know the fear if you've ever had a plug hang up while removing it.

[Pirate69]

Found this on another Site. Seems like some go info.


Anti-Seize Type for Barrel Installation
Read bullets below if you just want the info...http://www.savageshooters.com/images/smilies/tongue.gif

All,
When researching Anti-Seize for barrel installation I came across good info and figured I would pass it along so someone else doesn't have to do the same. This was important for me because my install involved a stainless steel barrel and barrel nut on my 110 action. The precision barrel nut instructions from Northland Shooters Supply specifically stated to coat all threads with anti-seize. In all the excitement of my first savage build, I did not apply anti-seize. However, five minutes after the rifle was assembled I realized I had forgotten sumpin... http://www.savageshooters.com/images/smilies/stung.png Anywho, I did my research, ordered the $5 Nickel anti-seize, found out it wouldn't arrive until 9 Feb, found aluminum anti-seize at autozone, called the Permatex company for permapermission to use on stainless steel since this particular product wasn't listed on their website, and then came home to find the nickel anti-seize in my mail. Lol so now I figured I would document what I learned and let the brotherhood know for future first-time barrel installers http://www.savageshooters.com/images/smilies/wink.gif. My references are Permatex.com, Depacsproducts.net and Nothland Shooters Supply.

- Aluminum/Copper Base and Plain Copper Base:
Anything with copper base is a no-no for stainless. Many people know this and therefor steer very clear of it. I recently found this out with research and that the aluminum/copper base is just as bad in the end game. The copper in aluminum/copper or plain copper base causes a crystalline corrosion reaction with the stainless steel. This will eventually cause the stainless to fracture and brake or crack. Thats why anything with copper base is forbidden in nuclear facilities...

- Aluminum Base:
Aluminum base anti-seize is safe for stainless steel as long as you stay within the temp range of the lubricant. I confirmed this with Permatex technical specialist over the phone when I came across the Aluminum Base Anti-Seize at AutoZone and couldn't find the product on their website. The only drawback to aluminum base anti-seize is that it reacts with carbon steel in a way that the lubricant loses its protective characteristics which then leads to corrosion of the unprotected steel.

- Nickel Base:
Nickle base anti-seize is also safe for use with stainless steel. It is probably the most commonly used anti-seize for stainless steel in industry and has the highest temperature operating range. The Permatex technical specialist said most people use it but they don't have to since aluminum may also be used for this application. The drawback to nickel base anti-seize is that it is a known carcinogen. It can be dangerous in environments where it comes in contact with bare skin...