Winchester 1892 problem

[labradigger1]

Having a problem with a win 92. Figured I'd start a new thread since I have another thread going with a different issue and same rifle.

Winchester 1892 32-20, 24" octagon bbl, made 1904.

The bolt is stiff. You just about need to smack the lever open or closed about half way through the stroke. With the action completely dissembled except the cartridge guides the bolt hits a bind halfway across the guides by shoving the bolt forward or backwards. If I remove one guide or the other (as long as one is removed) the bolt is free moving. With both guides installed the problem is back. It does not matter if the magazine catch spring is installed or not.

Some things I have looked at,
Both guides are clean.
Both areas where they guides fit are clean with no gunk or debris.
Bolt is clean and smooth. Some pitting due to black powder loads or corrosive primers in yesteryear.
I have lubed all parts.

With the rifle completely assembled everything functions 100% but severely stiff. I messed with it last weekend and a couple more hours tonight. I have not gained any improvements at all.
When the bolt hits the tight spot on closing I can gently pry between the front of the cartridge guides and the bolt becomes free.

I also have a Rossi 92 in 44 mag and after slicking it up it cycles easily with your pinky finger.

Looking for advise here. I'm at a standstill so to speak.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
Been shooting 1892's for numerous years. One of our's had a similar issue.
Turned out the hole in the bolt the lever pin slides through was enlarged on the bottom side of the bolt. Looked like someone had installed a larger diameter lever pin which upset metal on the bottom of the bolt on both sides. Once the enlargement was tapped back to flush with the bolt bottom the "resistance" was eliminated.
So check that little hole. Use a straight edge along the bottom of the bolt and it will prove whether that is the issue. Then check the bolt sides with the straight edge looking for any metal that has been displaced.

If your issue is a too narrow slot between the guides "color" the wear spots on the guides and bolt sides that are rubbing with a black marker. Move the bolt forward in the receiver until the resistance is met. Back out the bolt and see where it rubs on the bolt. Again looking for a "lump" or burr or upset metal. Little by little recoloring the rubs with marker and working it until you are sure or the issue. The offending area may be on the bolt or on one or the other guides. Be sure you understand where the problem is before you start stoning. Metal removed is hard to replace. Gentle stoning will reduce the problem. Try it again and little by little you will cure it.

Mike in Peru

[runfiverun]

I second the find the high spot on the rails.
pull the bolt and lay a flat edge on the rails they might both be bowed upwards.
i'll let you decide how they got this way.

[labradigger1]

I second the find the high spot on the rails.
pull the bolt and lay a flat edge on the rails they might both be bowed upwards.
i'll let you decide how they got this way.

Rails were not bent upwards, not sure what you meant by you'll let me decide how they got this way.
Turns out the rifle had several issues.

RH cartridge guide rail needed polished.
Bottom of bolt had a large burr where the lever rotates through the cycle.

Runs like butter but needs a lighter trigger pull.

[missionary5155]

Howdy
That is good news !
Lighter trigger... Drop lever about halfway and you will see two screws the lever hides when fully up. The screw towards the muzzle is a mainspring tension screw. Back it out some. But not so far as it would interfere with the lever raising. May help if it was putting excess pressure on the mainspring. Generally Mine tension screws are backed out so they give no additional pressure to the main.

Next is the reward screw that attaches the mainspring to the lower tang. If you remove the stock you will see how this works. You can back this screw out some and it will reduce the tension on the mainspring thus also giving a lighter trigger pull. Do not unscrew this one more than complete engagement in the threaded mainspring hole. Most my hammers break at 5-6 pounds and as of yet no light hammer strikes. If it ever happens I will retighten that main spring bolt 1/4 turn. A reliable rifle far surpasses a light trigger.
While you have the stock off give the hammer connector to the mainspring a nice little dobber of grease if you have not already done so.
Mike in Peru

[runfiverun]

usually someone decides their 32-20 needs to be a 30 carbine +P then jacks the pressures up to 44 mag levels.

[DAVIDMAGNUM]

On the left side of the frame/receiver is a short screw that acts as a plug. When this screw is removed it allows the cross pin in the bolt to be tapped through the previously plugged hole. I have had two rifles with what you are describing because that screw was just a couple of thousandths too deep. Remove the screw. If the binding stops then use a file to take just a little material off of the tip.

[labradigger1]

On the left side of the frame/receiver is a short screw that acts as a plug. When this screw is removed it allows the cross pin in the bolt to be tapped through the previously plugged hole. I have had two rifles with what you are describing because that screw was just a couple of thousandths too deep. Remove the screw. If the binding stops then use a file to take just a little material off of the tip.

That screw was ok and not rubbing.

[DAVIDMAGNUM]

Fudge! I was hoping that I could be right about something this year. Let us know what you do find as there are a lot of 1892 owners on this board.

[labradigger1]

Fudge! I was hoping that I could be right about something this year. Let us know what you do find as there are a lot of 1892 owners on this board.


Post #4 lists what the problem areas were.
No progress on the heavy trigger/hammer yet. I backed the mainspring screw off a little and the tension screw. No discernible difference. Next I may thin or shim the springs