6.5x55 Swedish Mauser.... I know nothing!

[davidheart]

So it finally happened! 3 years ago I purchased a set of 6.5x55 reloading dies and they've been sitting on the top of my bench since then... collecting dust. I've held onto them, I've had temptation to sell or give them away... but I always said to myself "One day I'll have a 6.5x55 rifle."

Well today I visited a client of mine who's owed me money and was going on three months late. Down to the final $150 he said to me "Listen, I have a rifle over at your friend's gun shop. It's in 6.5x55. If you forgive my debt, I'll give you the rifle and a box of (fmj) ammo." Without jumping up and down.... because I knew which rifle it was.... I said "Deal." He was super happy to be caught up, and I was excited to take my new toy home!

After I visited the shop and took the rifle off my buddy's hands I set her up, cleaned, and took a few shots. First, a steel 8 inch plate at 75 yards. I aimed low, figuring that "3" on the old military sights stood for "300" - *PONG* The cartridge was sticky to load into the chamber (whoops... forgot to take the old cosmoline off the action!) That sight blade is THICK but by golly I hit that plate... time to change targets.

Then I set up at a can & reactive ball 40 yards away. *Miss* Too high. *MISS* Ok... still too high. *DIRT* That's too low.... *HIT on the ball!* Sweet, maybe I have it now. *DIRT* Or not... *HIT on the can!*

Finally I thought it might be a good idea to put some rounds on paper. So I set up a target at 50 yards and proceeded with some slow, easy trigger pulls. 3 shots later I have a one inch group. Which is saying something because I never shoot iron sights. Oh and two of those three shots came within a hairline of touching one another. By the by, after my first five shots I cleaned the rifle again and that 3 shot group at 50 yards was 2 inches high.

So 10 shots into it I realized I don't have much of this FMJ ammo.... no extra brass and no 6.5 cast boolits or molds. In fact, other than the crown markings in certain areas of this rifle, the apparent accuracy, and that my shoulder never hurt during any of this despite the metal buttplate.... I know nothing else about it.

Maybe you guys could shed some light on my new acquisition (and if you have an boolits I could try, that too!)

No markings except a number on the side of the receiver (Y 3127) and small crowns all over the place. There's also a gold disc in the buttstock but I don't know how to read that. Next to the gold disc is a partially worn off yellow slip with Swedish writing on it and elevations. (One of which says "50 300/-2) which I'll imagine means I'm shooting 2 high at 50 which is what I've evidenced.

Edit: Alrighty, I understand what the gold disc is for now and how to read it... ish. According to this website (http://candrsenal.com/tip-how-to-read-swedish-mauser-stock-disks/) the disc is telling me that the bore is at 6.52mm and there is "Some rust or corrosion along the borders of the lands and grooves or within the grooves themselves." But when I look down the cleaned bore this 29 inch barrel looks perfect and the numbers on the stock and receiver plate do match (359). Strange.

[dondiego]

I don't know much about the Swede but if that FMJ ammo was military surplus, there is a good chance that it was corrosively primed and you might need to clean again if you didn't use a corrosive cleaning solution. Sounds like a nice rifle!

[davidheart]

I don't know much about the Swede but if that FMJ ammo was military surplus, there is a good chance that it was corrosively primed and you might need to clean again if you didn't use a corrosive cleaning solution. Sounds like a nice rifle!

Thanks for looking out. It's actually PPU 139gr FMJ. The rifle is very clean inside and out. The barrel looks good, no pitting. The bluing is rubbing around certain areas on the receiver and the final 4 inches of the barrel. There's still a few areas where the cosmoline hasn't been removed!

[3006guns]

The Swede M96's and M38's were the best of the imports "way back when" in my opinion. Oh, sure, there were some fantastic 98K's brought in too, but even the poorest Swede had quality oozing out of its stock. I bought one in "very good" condition for $69.95 around 1989 I think, and when I saw the gun come out of the box I immediately realized that I should float a loan and buy more. Didn't happen unfortunately.

I have one word of caution though, and it really doesn't apply to the rifle. A quantity of Danish 6.5 ammunition made it to our shores and it's dangerous to shoot and you can recognize it by a small triangle in the headstamp. The problem is with the bullet itself, as it utilized a cupro nickel jacket instead of gilding metal. Unknowing shooters used this stuff, cleaned their gun afterward, but a few rifles started exhibiting signs of excess pressure. The cupro nickel almost welds itself to the grooves, gradually reducing the size of the bore.......not a good thing.

I have some of this Danish stuff and plan to pull and junk the bullets, replacing them with a commercial bullet of the same (or lesser) weight. Stick to good quality commercial cases, powder and projectiles. You'll never regret buying a Swede!

[higgins]

If it has the original military sights, and it is still sighted as it left the armory, it will shoot high. Original military front sight blades are available at different heights. The front sight will have a number stamped on it and "+" or "-"; look on ebay and the milsurp rifle websites and get some front sights that are taller if need be.

As you have found out, the Swedes were critical when grading bores. What they called a worn bore is better than you will find on most surplus rifles with "great" bores.

Before you get carried away with changing sights shoot it with various cast or jacketed handloads. You may find that you can adjust for them since the sights were regulated for the military ball ammo and your handloads will likely shoot to a different POI. If the rifle is in original configuration don't get too carried away cleaning the stock - leave the trajectory decal on it - and don't sand it! You can clean grease off the metal and wood with mineral spirits without harming anything (except possibly the decal)After you've had it a while I think you'll appreciate it for its originality.

[davidheart]

If it has the original military sights, and it is still sighted as it left the armory, it will shoot high. Original military front sight blades are available at different heights. The front sight will have a number stamped on it and "+" or "-"; look on ebay and the milsurp rifle websites and get some front sights that are taller if need be.

As you have found out, the Swedes were critical when grading bores. What they called a worn bore is better than you will find on most surplus rifles with "great" bores.

Before you get carried away with changing sights shoot it with various cast or jacketed handloads. You may find that you can adjust for them since the sights were regulated for the military ball ammo and your handloads will likely shoot to a different POI. If the rifle is in original configuration don't get too carried away cleaning the stock - leave the trajectory decal on it - and don't sand it! You can clean grease off the metal and wood with mineral spirits without harming anything (except possibly the decal)After you've had it a while I think you'll appreciate it for its originality.

The front sight says "-0.5" What does that mean? I think yea, before I go changing the sights out I'd rather try to load for it. Although I might pick up an aperture sight for the rear that doesn't require me to drill the receiver. (Like the Williams model.) The rifle is in original condition, and it looks like all numbers (that I could find) are matching.

There's no stamp on the receiver ring though? That's very strange to me. Most of the Swedish mausers I see have an elaborate stamp that this one simply doesn't have.

I don't have any cast boolits in 6.5. The only thing I have is 30 caliber and 22 caliber.... but I'll need to see if I could get a hold of some.

[labradigger1]

I don't know much about the Swede but if that FMJ ammo was military surplus, there is a good chance that it was corrosively primed and you might need to clean again if you didn't use a corrosive cleaning solution. Sounds like a nice rifle!

Swedes were never loaded with corrosive ammo. Ever

[bouncer50]

Does the bolt number match the receiver, All the parts should match the receiver number. I have one all matching number. The other all mismatch that i got cheap.

[bouncer50]

Also since the stock does match the receiver. I would not trust the stock disk. A lot of were put together from parts when they came to the US.

[davidheart]

Does the bolt number match the receiver, All the parts should match the receiver number. I have one all matching number. The other all mismatch that i got cheap.

No I disassembled the rifle and looked at all numbers. The receiver and barrel look very different from the stock and bottom metal. The stock and bottom metal are all stamped "359" with a small crown. The receiver is stamped on the left side "Y 3127" with a small crown under the stock on the bottom side of the barrel. The bolt handle has the number "659" on it and the bolt itself is stamped "59." Also, the bolt safety does not work? No, it's not tight. It's like the firing pin doesn't protrude back enough for the bolt latch to be switched over.

Thoughts? My feelings aren't hurt if the stock, receiver/barrel assembly, and bolt aren't matched. The rifle shoots well (and if I so decide to "sporter" it down the road I won't feel bad).

And there's cosmoline all over the inside of this stock.

[3006guns]

Learn to disassemble the bolt and clean it completely. There may be hardened crud inside preventing the safety from operating. Failing that, the notch in the striker can be moved further back (just a touch) with a grinding disk in a Dremel tool, until the safety swings over like its supposed to.

[davidheart]

Learn to disassemble the bolt and clean it completely. There may be hardened crud inside preventing the safety from operating. Failing that, the notch in the striker can be moved further back (just a touch) with a grinding disk in a Dremel tool, until the safety swings over like its supposed to.

I think I just discovered why the striker isn't moving back any more than it is. It's because this bolt wasn't originally used with this receiver. That's my theory at least.

All over the rifle stock and barrel/receiver I could find crown stamps. The bolt on this rifle doesn't look "pretty" like the common Swedish mauser bolts I'm used to seeing. No big deal. But why are there crossed hammers stamped on the bolt handle and body?

Because the bolt came from a Chilean mauser (which was probably chambered in 7x57mm originally). That's my theory at least.

[smilie=6:

[davidheart]

So 16 PPU FMJ's later a lot of soup cans have died and I've shot two 3 shot groups at 75 yards. Both of which were ~0.5" which for a guy not used to using irons isn't bad! It definitely shots high and a little to the left (about an inch) but I'm playing with different options for sights but I know the gun is a shooter which makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside! What REALLY shocks me is that out of 16 rounds fired my wife swears from inside the house she hasn't heard one of them???? When I shoot the AR she busts through the front door telling me to knock it off!

It's got it's issues I've discovered... mostly in relation to this Chilean bolt. The extractor binds on the cartridge on closing making fast loads impossible. The extractor collar is broken on one side. And as mentioned, the rifle will not go into safe.

At least I know the gun has potential though.

192289

Edit: I also decided to add a photo of the receiver. As you could see there's no stamping or marks other than "Y 3127". How else could I know specifically what model Mauser this is other than "Small Ring Swedish Mauser"?

192307

[Dutchman]

Jesus H. Peatmoss!!

Its not a Swedish Mauser at all. Its a friggin' SPANISH Mauser.

Please do not shoot this rifle until you put in some SCHOOL time.

Most likely it has a Swedish barrel.

Dutch

[davidheart]

Jesus H. Peatmoss!!

Its not a Swedish Mauser at all. Its a friggin' SPANISH Mauser.

Please do not shoot this rifle until you put in some SCHOOL time.

Most likely it has a Swedish barrel.

Dutch

??? Spanish Mauser ??? It's got crowns all over the stock and the bottom of the barrel has two Swedish crowns...

What does this mean? I thought Spanish Mausers only came in 7x57 and ".308 Win."

Edit: Ok, from what I understand if it is Spanish I'm still ok because the 6.5x55 operates at pressures safe for the Spanish M93 receiver. Correct me if I'm wrong please.

[bouncer50]

Yes. 6.5x55 is safe in a 1893 Mauser. What you have is a put together rifle from parts.

[Dutchman]

??? Spanish Mauser ??? It's got crowns all over the stock and the bottom of the barrel has two Swedish crowns...

Stock and barrel are Swedish.



What does this mean? I thought Spanish Mausers only came in 7x57 and ".308 Win."

It means you got snookered.


Dutch

[nseries]

Stock and barrel are Swedish.



It means you got snookered.


Dutch

Not too badly though. It's still gotta be worth the $150 he's into it for.

[richhodg66]

Not too badly though. It's still gotta be worth the $150 he's into it for.

I agree. If it shoots well, and you got it cheap, it's a good rifle. Even less mental anguish if you decide to sporterize it at some point.

[davidheart]

I agree. If it shoots well, and you got it cheap, it's a good rifle. Even less mental anguish if you decide to sporterize it at some point.

Those two points are pretty critical to me at this point.

I agree with Dutchman. This guy "snookered" me which doesn't surprise me in the least from what I know of his character. He'll pay me back one way or another though. ;)

But I also agree with Rich and nseries. It was only a $150 debt and for $150 I'm into the rifle what it's worth and didn't "pay" a penny more. What's more... how many $150 rifles shoot sub-moa with iron sights and FMJ ammo?

I'm going to take the advice BrassMagnet gave me elsewhere regarding this rifle. I'll find two cast loads this rifle likes. One for deer, one for small game and maybe at some point I'll get another 6.5x55 on a commercial or 98 action that could essentially handle "anything" I send it's way.

[David2011]

Once you hold a Model 96 Swedish Mauser you'll see the difference and understand the reverence in which they're held. Their machine work and finish are the best of all the Mausers. The Swedes allowed Germany to make them under license but only with Swedish engineers supervising the manufacturing of the high grade steel. Someone that once worked at Lyman told me that their reloading book testing is done with M96 receivers on standardized test barrels. The cartridge is great for hand loading and the original rifles are capable of fine accuracy. Because of the very long original bullets the twist is something like 1 in 7.75" or 1 in 7.5". Original Swedish Mausers in decent condition should shoot 5/8" -3/4" at 100 yards.

[jhaston]

I bought my 96 Swedish Mauser around 10 years ago at a garage sale for $90 or $95, shoots beautiful, and I have to agree with David2011, the machine work & overall quality of the workmanship is by far the best I have seen on any military rifle. I am a big fan of old bolt action military rifles, I have 8 or 9 from several different countries, out of all of them the Swede is my favorite and the best shooter. Aim Surplus or Graf & Son usually have the ammo at a decent price.

[Hang Fire]

I don't know much about the Swede but if that FMJ ammo was military surplus, there is a good chance that it was corrosively primed and you might need to clean again if you didn't use a corrosive cleaning solution. Sounds like a nice rifle!


Corrosive cleaning solution. IOW, plain old h2O, aka water.

[curt6.5]

you can get PPU 139 grain soft point ammo for deer hunting, and it is real accurate. the best combo I have found for my swede for target shooting is Hornady 140 grain match bthp bullet with 46 grains. IMR4831 powder PPU brass.

[aephilli822]

...... how many $150 rifles shoot sub-moa with iron sights and FMJ ammo?

....

Every one of the Swedish Mausers I bought. :p (when they were as low as 59.95 @)

[dogmower]

hey, any rifle that shoots well and safely is worth MORE than $150. I recently picked up a mauser 71/84 carbine for $189. supposed to be chambered in 43 mauser, right? well, looks like it's been rebarreled to 43 SPANISH, but whoever did that left the bolt face intact (bolt matches the receiver). no big deal, just bought some 43 Spanish brass (easier to find than 43 mauser, anyway) and turned the rims down on the lathe. so why do I love this gun? no. 1, it flat out shoots. no. 2, I got it for cheap, and no. 3, it's just fun to think that something that was made all those years ago is still functional. i'd love to take a deer or elk with this gun. good luck with your mauser - enjoy it and don't worry about anything else.

[Gunfreak25]

Bummer you don't have what you thought you had. Don't feel terrible, I paid $1200 for a "rare" code K98. S/147/G code. Price was actually good if it had been legit, and it is to an extent. But it's a US built rifle from misc german parts, and the receiver is ex russian capture. But it looks nice and has a brand new Yugo 8mm barrel on it so I keep it as a reminder.

I also started shooting my M96 and also hand loading for it with swede surplus training brass. I put 10/10 no misses on the 326 yard Javelina silhouette a few weeks ago. Never shot that well with any other Mil-surp, the range will full of scoped AR's and idiots blasting away at short range not hitting anything and pretty much stopped to gaze at my 107 year old rifle strutting her stuff. It was a good day, loved the attention it brought. :)