How I recondition Lyman 45 Sizers

[BrassMagnet]

First step is find a pile of junk!

191799

Begin disassembling it. Don't force it!

***********************************************

Do some cleaning. Boiling it out works well, but keep the temperature down or you will destroy the paint!
Just hot enough to melt out the old lube which can be as hard as rock!

191800191801

************************************************** ********************************

I'll post some more pictures as I make some more progress!

[BrassMagnet]

Note:
If it doesn't work, it is junk!

I have found many that are seized. Two still are seized, but I am not done with those two yet. A friend tried to un-seize them and he still has half of both of them. I should have them back soon.

I have reconditioned a whole lot more that started as apparent basket cases!

When finished, they should look like this:

191802191803

This one went off for Tumbleweed Christmas.

****************************************

I have four more to play with plus the two partial carcasses.


Three of these four in post #1 should be easy to recondition. Boil out the old, dead lube. Clean. Lube. Reassemble. Test.
The fourth is seized and will take more time and more labor. Time and penetrating oil are your friend!

***************************************

I know where two should go. Hmmm!

[runfiverun]

I got step ONE down Pat.
Jon B. in Glencoe has a few different parts for these.
I'm not sure what all he has but I know he has some.

[BrassMagnet]

I got step ONE down Pat.
Jon B. in Glencoe has a few different parts for these.
I'm not sure what all he has but I know he has some.

Lyman also still has some parts for them. I have a nice box of spare parts and I will re-stock it after I finish with these!

[dverna]

I remember Jon B doing quite a report on these old tools a while back. He offered a lot of advice and made them look like new.

[BrassMagnet]

Cleaning the old lube out sure makes a mess!

There are ways to reduce the mess.
Lube floats. When you pull clean parts through the melted layer of lube they get all gooey! Yechh!
The old lube hardens into a layer of cold lube which is easily removed from the pot when the water cools.
Unplug to cool and add some ice cubes to speed up the cooling.


191816191817191818

[BrassMagnet]

I got step ONE down Pat.
Jon B. in Glencoe has a few different parts for these.
I'm not sure what all he has but I know he has some.

OK. I'm awake now!

First step is find a pile of junk!

Me, too!

[bbogue1]

There must be a lot of lube in there as well as dust and who knows what else. Does the lube go rancid and leak out?

[BrassMagnet]

There must be a lot of lube in there as well as dust and who knows what else. Does the lube go rancid and leak out?

Turns hard like rock!

[runfiverun]

save the old lube from the top of the pot.
many times it can be slightly re-worked and re used.
at the least you can use it to return oxides and help get your ww's cleaner when smelting.
or if your getting a lot of smoke when cleaning the ww's while waiting for them to melt down a good chunk of the old wax and a match will help mitigate the smoke.

[NYBushBro]

For the seized ones, have you considered soaking them in diesel? I've heard it recommended for a seized motorcycle piston in the block.

[bbogue1]

1/3 Acetone 2/3 Automatic Trans Fluid (the old style real stuff) is rated #2 behind Kroil and seems to work as well. Drip a little on, leave it alone for a few hours. Drip more on and tap it stiffly with a mallet (plastic, wood, hide, brass, not steel.) leave it a few hours and repeat the dripping and whacking. Repeat until it is loose. It may take a few days to loosen. In the 1950's a crew in the woods of rainey Western Washington actually took apart a railroad bridge using this formula. Sent a jr member up to apply and tap hard morning and evening for a month then went up and with elbow grease took the bridge apart.

[jeepyj]

1/3 Acetone 2/3 Automatic Trans Fluid (the old style real stuff) is rated #2 behind Kroil and seems to work as well. Drip a little on, leave it alone for a few hours. Drip more on and tap it stiffly with a mallet (plastic, wood, hide, brass, not steel.) leave it a few hours and repeat the dripping and whacking. Repeat until it is loose. It may take a few days to loosen. In the 1950's a crew in the woods of rainey Western Washington actually took apart a railroad bridge using this formula. Sent a jr member up to apply and tap hard morning and evening for a month then went up and with elbow grease took the bridge apart.

I've haven used the Acetone & ATF combo but I have used the Kroil many times with excellent success. I love the 45's

[frankenfab]

Does anyone know the current price for the pressure nut?

[John Boy]

1/3 Acetone 2/3 Automatic Trans Fluid (the old style real stuff) is rated #2 behind Kroil and seems to work as well. 50:50 mix works better. About 53 lb torque bar pressure to break a rusted bolt loose. Kroil needs 106 lbs
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20131.0

[CaptREDD]

Wat works even better is 50/50 mix of acetone & Marvel's Mystery Oil....keep leftover mix tightly capped to prevent avetone evaperation.

REDD

[BrassMagnet]

How I recondition Lyman 45 Sizers



First step is find a pile of junk!

199843

Begin disassembling it. Don't force it!

***********************************************

Do some cleaning. Boiling it out works well, but keep the temperature down or you will destroy the paint!
Just hot enough to melt out the old lube which can be as hard as rock!

199844199845199846

************************************************** ********************************


Started with Four, but now down to Three!

199847

Now a new rule I just learned the hard way!

Use the right tool and don't drop it!

199848

After cleaning this one up, I found the lube reservoir tube didn't allow for smooth movement of the top assembly. I tried the wrong tool and dropped it. The cast iron shattered. Now there are only three!

Once the old lube is boiled out at the lowest temperature which will melt it, clean the bit and piece parts as you reassemble them. I like to scrub them with an oiled cloth, cleaning patch, or paper towel For really caked on crud, oiled steel wool or oiled nylon scrubber pads work well!

These three survivors will soon be ready for new homes!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

199848

Well, if the only area broken (as shown) on this lower cast iron piece is the bottom angled area for the Depth adjustment screw, then this still could be used a push-through "lubeless" Sizer.

[BrassMagnet]

Well, if the only area broken (as shown) on this lower cast iron piece is the bottom angled area for the Depth adjustment screw, then this still could be used a push-through "lubeless" Sizer.

Hmmm...

I wonder who needs one of those?

When the threaded hole for the set screw which holds the die in place breaks, what can it be used for?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Hmmm...

I wonder who needs one of those?

When the threaded hole for the set screw which holds the die in place breaks, what can it be used for?
If you are talking the same broken press, a die setscrew or die setscrew hole won't be needed for sizing "lubeless" bullets, as there will only be downward pressure.

[BrassMagnet]

If you are talking the same broken press, a die setscrew or die setscrew hole won't be needed for sizing "lubeless" bullets, as there will only be downward pressure.

Two different bases

[Grmps]

Rust Remover
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils.
the torque required to loosen them.
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

When the threaded hole for the set screw which holds the die in place breaks, what can it be used for?


If you are talking the same broken press, a die setscrew or die setscrew hole won't be needed for sizing "lubeless" bullets, as there will only be downward pressure.


Two different bases

Oh, well if the base is cracked from the setscrew to the opening where the die inserts, then it's probably a death sentence. A talented welder/machinist could probably do some fancy TIG welding with nickel rod, since that is some old and probably higher quality cast Iron, it may take to welding better than most. Then drill and tap for a new setscrew. Now since I said all that, the same could be possible for the other press with the broken angle/depth stop area.

The problem would be the cost, unless you have a talented friend, where you could call in a favor??? ...because a established machine shop that is capable of such work, would charge more than what a couple functional Lyman 45's are worth.

PS, I should have added, the crack/break near the Die opening can change the alignment...So that would have to be fixed, even if it ends up being used as a "lubeless" sizer.

[BrassMagnet]

Oh, well if the base is cracked from the setscrew to the opening where the die inserts, then it's probably a death sentence. A talented welder/machinist could probably do some fancy TIG welding with nickel rod, since that is some old and probably higher quality cast Iron, it may take to welding better than most. Then drill and tap for a new setscrew. Now since I said all that, the same could be possible for the other press with the broken angle/depth stop area.

The problem would be the cost, unless you have a talented friend, where you could call in a favor??? ...because a established machine shop that is capable of such work, would charge more than what a couple functional Lyman 45's are worth.

PS, I should have added, the crack/break near the Die opening can change the alignment...So that would have to be fixed, even if it ends up being used as a "lubeless" sizer.

I don't believe it is cracked through to the sizing die. I'm kind of surprised no one has inquired about snatching one of the damaged ones to size powder coated boolits.

[BrassMagnet]

I don't believe it is cracked through to the sizing die. I'm kind of surprised no one has inquired about snatching one of the damaged ones to size powder coated boolits.

I don't believe it is cracked through to the sizing die. I'm kind of surprised no one has inquired about snatching one of the damaged ones to size powder coated boolits. No interest in a Dry Lyman 45 to size powder coated boolits?

[Hamish]

I doubt folks many folks are seeing this. S&S or Helping Hands?