Recommendations for a good BP cleaning rod?

[Big Mak]

I have been using the cleaning rod that came with the 45-70 trapdoor to clean the bore, carefully! But I know steel against steel is not good with a slip up and without a bore guide.

Anyone have a recommendation for a good cleaning rod that I can mop the bore with on the range AND clean the bore when I get home? It needs to be at least 36" long.

Tipton fiberglass?

[Nobade]

Yes, I like the Tipton carbon fiber ones once I fix the bearings so they spin properly.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[rfd]

specifically for .45-70 after-shoot cleaning, i use a 3/8" x 42" tipton rod with a special boreirider chisel jag (http://www.boreriderbarrelcareproducts.com/p/pricing.html) but at the range i use one of steve's (http://arizonasharpshooters.com/1794.html) solid 1pc delrin rods.

[M-Tecs]

http://www.proshotproducts.com/Micro-Polished-Cleaning-Rods_c_80.html

[country gent]

I have a few heavy dewy rods that work well. They are 5/16 coated steel 1 piece rods. I use a derlin rod for wiping at the range. I also have a Montana extreme rod that .300 dia? and 50+ inches long coated 1 piece thats real good but a pain to transport carry and on a busy range use. I prefer the 1 piece rods and can be coated or uncoated. What might be nice if you can find the length needed would be a piece of brass tubing 5/16 outside dia 48" long. fit it to a couple bearings in a nice wood handleand a insert for 8-32 threads in the other end. Would be plenty solid lighter and look good. The plug could be a 5/16 set screw of the shot gun threads and take the screw out of a rod adapter from 8-32 - 5/16 24 screw on threaded end and use for the brushes and jags. If all your using is 45-70 then 3/8 of tubing could be used. Turn up a nice walnut handle with a couple bearings or bushings. polish the of of the tubing would be a really nice looking rod.

[Big Mak]

Now you got me thinking Country Gent, I could make my own with my taps/dies...

[Big Mak]

specifically for .45-70 after-shoot cleaning, i use a 3/8" x 42" tipton rod with a special boreirider chisel jag (http://www.boreriderbarrelcareproducts.com/p/pricing.html) but at the range i use one of steve's (http://arizonasharpshooters.com/1794.html) solid 1pc delrin rods.

Who is steve and where can I get one. :)

[M-Tecs]

Click on the link or here http://arizonasharpshooters.com/1794.html

[Don McDowell]

The tipton rods are the best for deep cleaning. The delrin rods are great for incidental cleaning.

[rfd]

in essence, the tipton rods are for apres-shoot cleaning, whilst the delrin rods are for fouling control at the range/field.

[Dan Cash]

+1 on what Don McDowell said. My preference cleaning is #1. Montana Extreme and #2. Dewey. Delrin is great for wiping but I don't do that for my gun.

[varsity07840]

Get the 3/8" delrin from Steve. It's flexible enough to clean from the breech. Very handy at the range.

[rfd]

i've found that a really stiff rod is a requirement for cleaning with tight patched jags, for grease groove shooters, and a solid delrin rod is best/easier for range fouling control.

however, since going the paper patched bullet route, after-shoot cleanup is easily done with just the delrin rod and a few patches. oh the joy of bullet lead never touching the barrel lands and grooves. :smile:

[Don McDowell]

Get the 3/8" delrin from Steve. It's flexible enough to clean from the breech. Very handy at the range.
Not on a trapdoor as the op asked. A 5/16 delrin sorta works, but not real well.

[varsity07840]

Not on a trapdoor as the op asked. A 5/16 delrin sorta works, but not real well.

With all due respect, 3/8" works in all three of my TDs.

[Don McDowell]

I found 5/16 to work better. Just added a brass threaded tip to accept jag or a brush.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

[varsity07840]

The brass tip is on my bucket list, too

[Chill Wills]

I found 5/16 to work better. Just added a brass threaded tip to accept jag or a brush.

The only problem with the Delrin rod is MAYBE there is concern for barrel damage. I have stopped using them and starting using the long Tipton with either a nylon brush to hold the arsenal wiping patch or a flat face jag used as a pusher for pushing some version of bore wipe plug.

Our friend Eron tipped me off to the possible damage a few years ago. He was following the progression with his Hawkeye in the barrel of his high mileage longrange rifle.

The jury may be out on this but we quit using the flexible rods mentioned in above posts.

[rfd]

The only problem with the Delrin rod is MAYBE there is concern for barrel damage. I have stopped using them and starting using the long Tipton with either a nylon brush to hold the arsenal wiping patch or a flat face jag used as a pusher for pushing some version of bore wipe plug.

Our friend Eron tipped me off to the possible damage a few years ago. He was following the progression with his Hawkeye in the barrel of his high mileage longrange rifle.

The jury may be out on this but we quit using the flexible rods mentioned in above posts.

wow - interesting! what are the indications that it's the delrin rod? with the tipton, are you using a bore guide?

[Chill Wills]

The Delrin rod often bows when relaxed and more so in the middle when pushed. I think it is safe to say, few or none are straight while being pushed under load.

When wiping, the rod and what ever grit may be on/in it, rubs the mid section of the barrel. Often, if the rod has some pre-set bow in it, we tend to start the rod into the chamber with the bow or belly at 6 O'clock. No mater if the rod does or does not start at the same orientation, a dirty flexing rod will rub the middle of the bore somewhere along the way.

Our friend thought he was seeing a trough, which is descriptive but far too strong a word, describing possible ware at 6 O'clock near the chamber and extending to the mid section of the barrel.

No bore guides are used when wiping during a match. Not that it is a bad idea but it may not address the mid barrel problem.

How come two old f@4Ts are up writing at this hour in the morning?

[rfd]

.... How come two old f@4Ts are up writing at this hour in the morning?

as nevada smith said about doffing one's clothes and rollin' around in the cactus "seemed like a good thing to do at the time".

yup, know about the delrin rod flex, have also always known to wipe down the rod 'fore usage, too. anything shoved down the tube will have eventual consequences, bore guide used or not, the idea is to put off those issues as long as possible.

[Don McDowell]

I always have a concern with the delrin shavings, never considered the possibility of barrel wear.
But if Eron thinks it's there that's good enough for me.
like those small Tipton rods ,they are like a fine Fenwick flyrod you can feel the tiniest of bumps..

[Chill Wills]

yup, know about the delrin rod flex, have also always known to wipe down the rod 'fore usage, too. anything shoved down the tube will have eventual consequences, bore guide used or not, the idea is to put off those issues as long as possible.

In a target rifle match under the clock it really does not happen. We don't wipe the rod between shots. Working at ground level shooting prone, there are days the wind transports grip into the rifle, rifle action and bore. You can feel it when you close the action time after time 60 shots a day maybe. The same airborne grit sticks to a wet, sometimes slimy rod and some of the grit in-beds into these soft plastic rods.

You get the idea. This is information only. We all make our choices.

[Gunlaker]

I remember Eron posting about it on the Shiloh forum. I don't worry a whole lot about it to be honest. Where I shoot there is no blowing grit, just black powder fouling that builds up on the rod. The only places I run into grit are at the BPTR matches down south which only accounts for 10% of my shooting.

I do know of a few people using non embedding rods and bore guides while pushing BACO bore wipers. But the patches and bore wipers pick up some blowing grit anyway. When I shot at Byers the first time in 2015 there was so much blowing sand at the 500 yard line that it covered everything. Wiping rods, patches, exposed portions of bullets. There isn't much you can do there if you want to shoot.

Chris.

[Lead pot]

I wipe between shots. I have a dry patch in my hand and it gets put on the rod as I pull it out to wipe the rod off all in one stroke. It does not take any longer then not holding a patch when extracting the rod and it is dry and clean I turn the patch to it's clean side and it gets pushed through to dry the bore.
I will not use a cleaning rod that is made out of wood, rubber coated or a carbon rod. A carbon rod is fiberglass and it might feel smooth but when you push a tight patch the rod will flex or it could enter the chamber on a angle if your not careful and shave or nick it on the sharp rim recess and it has a chance to flex as you push it through the bore with a tight patch.
I use a SST. Phariss cleaning rod that Shiloh sells. SST is softer then the barrel steel and it has a patch slot a couple inches back from the jag. With a patch in that slot the rod is held centered in the bore and will not drop down as the jag is through the bore and retracting the rod the jag will not catch the muzzle.

[country gent]

Derlin and coated rods share one of the same issues that may become a problem in time ( even soft material rods as brass or aluminum) in that grit and fouling can embed into the surface and make them a lapp or file over time. Its been a sop practice to finsh holes to precise fits and or finishes to use a lead slug with lapping compound impregnated into it and then finish hardened steel with the soft lead. It is a slow process but it does take place. Barrels are lapped with very soft lead slugs impregnated with fine abrasives also. The soft rods can do the same thing. A good rod guide that supports the rod, straight rods, and burrless true attachments go along ways towards preserving a barrel. I have heard it said more barrels are ruined from improper cleaning than shooting and am beginning to believe it

[Lead pot]

Chris.

Did you say dust/grid :D

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7115/7646706622_34109ea728_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cDHntm)IMG_0794 (https://flic.kr/p/cDHntm) by Kurt (https://www.flickr.com/photos/leadpot/), on Flickr
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8162/7646906318_40a9f1dc77_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/cDJoQo)IMG_0793 (https://flic.kr/p/cDJoQo) by Kurt (https://www.flickr.com/photos/leadpot/), on Flickr

[Chill Wills]

Cleaning rods and wiping rods have two different criteria in my experience.

Wiping rods, at least mine, don't need to be stiff enough to bang out lead. Just stiff enough to push through a wiping patch on a nylon brush or a bore plug type cleaning system.
One rod that in my rod quiver that works as good as any I have used so far is the small diameter (long) Tipton. It is stiff enough not to bend under the light load and small in diameter to keep from touching the sides on the way through - if you are not flailing.

My cleaning rods are strong, stiff and like leadpot said, make use of a patch slot and able to withstand forces large enough required to get the lead out.

As always - looking for ways to improve.

[Don McDowell]

Those big heavy Tipton rods are great for punching stubborn deposits out of the bore. They are hard to find in stock tho.

[Gunlaker]

That's pretty crazy Kurt :-)

These days I'm using a Rhoades delrin rod with tipton nylon brush for wiping, and have a few for cleaning. A Shiloh one, a carbon fiber one, and a few coated Dewey ones. One of them is for .338 diameter so it's good if you have some lead to remove.

Chris.

[Lead pot]

I don't have a lead problem with my PP bullets :D

[rfd]

I don't have a lead problem with my PP bullets :D

+1 - the only way for me, too - patched bullets and balls.

[Gunlaker]

I use the same rods whether I'm shooting one of my paper patched rifles, or the ones that shoot greasers ;-).

Chris.

[Chill Wills]

I don't have a lead problem with my PP bullets :D

I shoot and enjoy both. From the first year I started the American Creedmoor Cup match, I offered a high paper patch award. Not at that match nor the NRA nationals has any one won with the diapered bullet. I shot PP the first three years of the ACC but I know I was not shooting to my ability so I switched back to GG bullets.

I fully believe the time will come someone will win a big match with PP. Lord knows enough effort has been put in. It will happen. Even I feel the calling to shoot PP bullets again.

PP, GG; I like both a lot and there is a place for both. Do what makes you happy.

And............. wipe with the right rod for the job! :p just getting on topic :p.

[Lead pot]

I don't have a problem shooting either one. My .50-2.5 will not shoot a patched as well as a GG so I only use the GG with it. Most of my rifles shoot the patched better so I use the patched in them. There are only a few completive I know that have shot the PP for some time, Brent for one that has done well using them. At my age I do the best I can with what I use. A well build rifle is only as good as the shooter behind it. GG or PP does not makes not much difference, you just treat and use them a little differently.

[rsrocket1]

I use a 3/8" Aluminum rod with the end drilled and tapped for a ramrod bullet seater and it doubles as a cleaning rod. I use a 1-1/2" dowell cut to size to fit over the other end as a ramrod/cleaning rod handle.

[Chill Wills]

I use a 3/8" Aluminum rod with the end drilled and tapped for a ramrod bullet seater and it doubles as a cleaning rod. I use a 1-1/2" dowell cut to size to fit over the other end as a ramrod/cleaning rod handle.

What kind of rifle? I assume you are using this with your muzzle loader?

[Big Mak]

I went with the Tipton 3/8" 270-45 rod. I've not checked it out yet if I can put a wipe from the breech to barrel yet, but will check it out before this weekend's 200 yd Garand shoot.
Definitely stiff enough for cleaning. I may need two cleaning rods, one for wiping the barrel on the range, one for cleaning. I'm just psychologically reliefed I won't be using the steel Springfield cleaning rod for cleaning anymore!

This will be my 2nd Garand competition at the local club. I came in last place the first time I played but NOT BY MUCH! 15 points. :)

Shooting sticks arrive tomorrow-Check! (I'll still do prone and standing but will cheat using sticks for seated)
SR 22 NRA 200 yard targets-Check!
New (to me) Konus 20-60x100mm spotting scope and camera mount -Check!
100 rds of 500 gr 30-1 lead bullets and 62 grs of compressed Old Enys to smoke the line in order to blind them giving me the advantage- Check!

[Jim2]

Kurt,

I remember that dusty Sunday morning in your post. We still had the Bucket and the Buffalo that day. Sight-setting for the Buffalo was 35 min. lt., plus 3 buffalos !

No matter the cleaning rod used, it took some serious pushing!

Jim

[Lead pot]

:D Jim that rifle was my #2 Shiloh Silhouette. I did not have my cart cover with me and it got a fine coat of Montana gumbo dust :) I wanted to take that rifle in and have the barrel re blued because it had lot of bluing wore off riding the sticks wear. After that match I pulled the wood off and cleaned the dust out. It had enough to plant potatoes under the forearm. When Kirk pulled the barrel the look on his face was like don't you ever clean this thing :D.
The winds gods do let you know that they are around when the shoots are on :)
Kurt

[shafer44]

I was searching for cleaning rods also, like a range rod. I found one by CVA that was 36" long and some that were 32". If you get the ones with threads on both ends, you can put a ball starter T handle on one end and extended jag on the other and have plenty of length. The CVA one i saw was a polycarbonate type, impervious to cleaning fluids, just about unbreakable and was only $12.

[flint45]

I like my dewy and it was free cant beat that also I use a black nylon brush with a cloth patch wraped around it works so good dont even use my jaggs any more cleans fast and thorough.