Opening up a Lee Push Thru Sizer

[bluejay75]

Greetings fellow Booliteers,

It took me a few days to come up with what I would ask on my first post...so here goes.

I emailed Lee a couple weeks back and asked why didn't they at least make a .431 to get .002 over the standard 44. Their response was that they have considered it. I would like one in .4315 or .432.

In the meanwhile, I dont trust myself to execute it on my own. What places would you recommend that I could take it locally and get the work done?

Bluejay

[richhodg66]

I have not done it, but have read where it's easy to do. Get a wooden dowel a little smaller than the inside diameter and split the end so you can put a piece of fine sand paper in it so it flaps when you spin it in a drill press inside the die while moving it up and down. Shouldn't take much to open it the amount you're looking to do.

I think I heard that Lee will make custom push through sizers special order for a price? Did they mention that as an option?

[OS OK]

Cut a narrow 1" slot in the center of one end of a 1/4" wooden dowel. Cut a strip of wet/dry cloth backed 400 grit sandpaper 1" wide by 2" long or so...slip one end of it down in the dowel end and roll the dowel clockwise so it will roll the paper up with the grit on the outside.
Slip the dowel into a drill motor and get at it...sand for 30 to 60 seconds, blow out the die and run a boolit through...use a micrometer to measure the cast.
Repeat until you are up to the size you want.

[GhostHawk]

Why not? Find a dowel that just fits the existing sizing die. Wrap just enough fine sandpaper around it to make a snug fit. Die in one hand, dowel in the other, twist. Every 5 minutes remove dowel, insert in press, run a boolit through it, measure. Stop when your happy.

Worst case scenario you end up with a die 1 thousandths off.

In my case it was a .311 that was actually putting out .310 every time.
I stopped at .312 and bought a second at .314 for the Mosin.

I don't use that .312 a lot, but my Yugo SKS loves it.

Worst case scenario you are out 25$. You really don't trust yourself that much?


As long as you stick with hand turned, and check often the chances of developing a problem are few.

BTW, success is great. But we actually learn from failure. If you never let yourself try how do you learn? Don't be afraid of failure. Just pick yourself up, pay more attention to details and try again.

So hey, live a little, expand your horizons. You can DO this!

[bluejay75]

You already saved me. I was going to use a power drill.

Will I need to go back and polish with a finer grit?

[Handloader109]

Only if you want to,400 should be fine enough.

[OS OK]

I don't think so, but I'm now not sure whether I used 400 or 600...hmmm! I think I did the first one with 600 and it took a little longer and after that I went to 400 to speed it up. I don't remember going back to the 600 for a mirror finish.

[C. Latch]

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=104_406&osCsid=7m9qrn3o0cg890gpc2k7pgueo3

[DougGuy]

Lee makes a .432" I got one off ebay for $20 years ago. They are VERY hard so if you use fine abrasive, pack a good lunch, you will be there awhile.

I have used an ACRO lap with Meguiar's #2 automotive polish in the lathe, I have used a Sunnen hone as well, you can do it yourself or send it for professional results done on the Sunnen hone..

[Beagle333]

Buckshot tells you how to do it, and it works on Lee push thru as well as Lyman/RCBS dies.

How to hone a size die
by Buckshot
Oft times we find ourselves needing a bit more girth in a bullet to please a particular firearm. And, as
sometimes happens the size we need isn't available or we don't want to pay for the custom manufacture of
one. You can do this yourself and accomplish very accurate results for just a few cents worth of materials
(not counting the size die) and a bit of time.
What you will need:
1) A size die that is as close as possible to what you want
2) A length of steel rod that is close to 3/4 of the diameter of the existing die, and long enough to
protrude at least 2" beyond both ends of the die.
3) Wet or dry emery paper of 320, 400, and 600 grit. If you do need to remove more than a couple of
thousandths you should also include 220 grit. Actually the 400 will finish the inside well enough, but
hitting it with a bit of 600 sure slicks it up.
4) Oil. Most any oil will do.
What you do:
The paper should be cut long enough to extend out either end of the die, almost as long as the steel rod.
Wrap your starting coursest grit paper around the steel rod a couple times and apply some oil to the paper.
Insert the covered rod through the size die. With just your thumb and a couple fingers on each end of the
rod, roll it up and down your thigh (while sitting) applying only mild pressure. The reason for using a rod
as large as possible, is to keep from tapering the inside of the die, by having a slender rod bend under
pressure.
This will get your pants leg fairly well oiled up, so use old pants. Or you can staple a bit of cloth to a
length of wood. Most any surface that the die can turn on is fine. I use a piece of mud flap screwed to a bit
of 2x4, and clamp it in the vise, and it's a good working height.
Roll the steel rod occasionally as only a small portion of the paper is in contact with the interior of the
die. You should also swap the die end for end every now and then to make sure the metal removal is as
even as possible. Remember the throat of the die is tapered to admit the bullet and we're only wanting to
open up the actual sizing portion of the die.
When you check your work you don't need to put the die back in the press. Just drill a hole in a board
bigger than the bullet and place the die over it. Place a bullet in the die and tap it through. Remember to
leave a bit of metal to remove for your polishing down to final size with the finer grit paper. The first
time I did this I just took it down to where I wanted it without thinking of the finish. It works, but you do
need a bit more effort to get the bullet in and out, and it just isn't the right way to do it!
Your existing plunger will still be fine in the honed out size die, unless you opened it up several
thousandths. Even then it may still work fine, but you'll need to pay more attention to the lube consistancy
and the amount of pressure you exert on the lube reservoir.

[wmitty]

If you are close to the desired i.d. you can simply roll boolits you have pushed thru the die on a hard surface which has valve lapping compound spread on it. then run the slugs with the imbedded compound back thru the die. It does not take long to open one up in this manner.

[country gent]

On all of my lee dies I polished them with flitz or simichrome on a flannel patch wrapped around a rod for a good snug fit. I did this to remove machine burnish marks and break any sharp edges in the die. After doing this they don't "pull" lead like before and are much smoother to use.

[bluejay75]

Thanks Gentlemen....

I think Im good for getting this one die opened to .432. All after this I think Im going to get the NOE set.