Anybody got any idea how to make a boollit mould for this?

[dominicfortune00]

I was wondering if anybody could come up with an idea on how to make a mould for the Webley Manstopper boollit?

Being a HBHN, it has me stumped how this can be cast.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/dominicfortune00/7f77.jpg

Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks,

dominicfortune00

[HeavyMetal]

Yep! This is a basic full wadcutter that's been hollow pointed! The boolits come out looking like silver shot glass's!

If you want to make some of your own you'll have to locate a mold and have someone like Buckshot hollow point it for you. I will suggest you take a hard look at Redding/Saeco molds They used to make a full wadcutter in the 45 cal. molds that you could do this with if you want.

[Typecaster]

So, does anybody want to venture a guess as to how they were "cast" by the factory? Maybe a combination of cast and swaged????

Richard

[Glen]

Being a hollow-base AND a hollow-point you're not going to be able to convert a mould to cast it readily. BUT you could have a set of dies made so you could swage it...

[Blammer]

swage it or drill each boolit.

[beagle]

Yeah...read an article on that several years back. The gent that wrote it located one of the Lyman composite moulds for the .45 and used that. Supposedly, it worked pretty well.

Now, finding one of those critters will be the problem and pricey as well as they're going for collector prices.

A good machinist could make one from a HB .45 mould for the BP revolters if it will cast big enough./beagle

[JIMinPHX]

My first guess would also be that swaging is the way to go, but I have been toying with the idea of using a dimpled sprue plate on a swivel in place of the pivoting flat sprue plate that is standard on most moulds to make a hollow top boolit mould. That in conjunction with a standard hollow pointing pin on the bottom (al-a-buckshoot) might be what you are asking for. It’s just an idea that I’ve had kicking around for about the last 6-months though. I haven’t even tried to build one yet, let alone get one to work.

Another possibility would be to make a mould that had two hollow pointing pins from the right & left sides & used a tangential sprue plate on top like some round ball moulds do. This would cast a boolit that would be laying sideways in the mould blocks.

[leftiye]

Full wadcutter with a hollow base plug, nose poured. Shoot it backwards, base first. Forget the hollow point. Or drill the hollow point if you need the hollow base for some reason. flat base will have a little more weight, but if you're gonna have a mold made, you can have any weight you want. Full wadcutter probly has enough shock effect without hollow point. Won't penetrate much with hollow point.

[Cap'n Morgan]

I've been toying with the idea of a "double hollow base," too.

One way to do it would be to use a cylindrical mold instead of the usual square blocks. The sprue plate/bottom cavity should be threaded on the outside of the top of the mold halves with an interupted thread - much like the lid on a jar. A quarter of a turn would twist it off, and at the same time snap the sprue from the base. Neat, eh...?

[Dale53]

Understand, that I have exactly ZERO experience with Webleys. However, I won't let that stop me from answering[smilie=1:.

If the Webley's dimensions are anywhere near "correct" than a simple HB wadcutter (reversed) will give you the equivalent, for all practical purposes. Using black powder, I would cast the bullet at 30/1, use a GOOD Black Powder lube (SPG or Emmert's comes to mind) and GO FOR IT!

Frankly, if I had a good Webley, and wanted to shoot it I would just try to find a mould with the correct dimensions and forget about the HB HP bullet and work toward getting it accurate (but that is just me...)

Dale53

[exile]

First let me say I have zero casting experience, just got an order of casting supplies from midway, still need to scrounge some other stuff before starting. However I did come across an article in the March 1980 American Rifleman magazine entitled "Reinventing the Manstopper". On page 16, C.E. Harris goes into the process in detail. It is too complicated for me to understand, but it is an interesting article.

[Shotgun Luckey]

cast 2 hollow based wad cutters and solder them togather?

[JIMinPHX]

. The sprue plate/bottom cavity should be threaded on the outside of the top of the mold halves with an interupted thread - much like the lid on a jar.

That would be referred to as a multi-start thread.

...just in case you ever need to look up info on it.

[Buckshot]

...................I made 45 2.1 a swage die to produce those 'Man Stoppers'. He sent me the dimentions to make it too.

http://www.fototime.com/7CA2B3C3EC5D49E/standard.jpg

Pretty much like this, except this one has WC and SWC nose formers instead of hollowpointers.

http://www.fototime.com/069CB1A7DC6AF34/standard.jpg

Instead of the SWC nose former you just use a HP nose former. The post for the ram was already set up for producing HB's.

...................Buckshot

[45 2.1]

...................I made 45 2.1 a swage die to produce those 'Man Stoppers'. He sent me the dimentions to make it too.

The original weight for the Mk 3 Manstopper boolit is about 218 gr. I think. Dimensions were from original British specifications for the slug. Works good BTW.

[Dutchman]

These are from "The Webley Story" by Dowd(?). If anyone needs larger size scans
let me know. These were large on my old monitor but this new 1680 wide monitor
they're not so big.

http://images7.fotki.com/v149/photos/2/28344/157842/Britishbullets2-vi.jpg

http://images7.fotki.com/v151/photos/2/28344/157842/Britishbullets1-vi.jpg

http://images114.fotki.com/v646/photos/2/28344/6456804/us000634383001WebleyBullet1899-vi.jpg

Dutch

[copdills]

No , but man thats a big pistol bullet lol

[runfiverun]

think of pouring from the side of the boolit? not the nose or base..
could always cast then swage.......
i would just shoot the hbwc.
and forget about the nose.

[Story]

Anyone done any more on this project?
http://www.oldammo.com/february05.htm

[303Guy]

... I have been toying with the idea of using a dimpled sprue plate on a swivel in place of the pivoting flat sprue plate ...I've thinking along these lines too. Another way which works but may not be the fastest, is what I did to get hollow points on rifle boolits.

Here's a mold with the little device in place
http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-888F.jpg

The resultant hollow point and the sprue that just get pulled off
http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-636F.jpg

The little nipple that remains in the centre of the hollow is unavoidable but in a large cavity it would be insignificant. This would work fine in a two-half mold. Air escapes through the clearance between the sprue 'spout' and the mold top allowing the lead to fill up above the 'spout' hole.

[Nora]

I've thinking along these lines too. Another way which works but may not be the fastest, is what I did to get hollow points on rifle boolits.

Here's a mold with the little device in place
http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-888F.jpg


I'm not understanding how that is a mold in your picture. Could you start a new thread telling how it works? I'd be interested in hearing more about it.

Thanks in advance

Nora

[markinalpine]

Lee does make a nose pour "Improved" Minie. Their part number 90469 is described as a .454-298M. Since it has a flat metplat, it could be hollow-pointed, reducing its weight, and it is already hollow based.
Mark :coffeecom

[runfiverun]

nora its a mold allright, when 303 sees the post he will provide pics or a link i have seen how it works the g/c is the base of the mold and the sprue is twisted off after the boolit is pushed out.
makes a nice pp type boolit of a tapered design.