Lyman 4 cavity mold problem

[tinsnips]

One of my Lyman 4 cavity molds will not go together tight . The two pin end of the mold goes together just fine ,the one pin end will not close tight. I am afraid to call Lyman as there customer service leaves something do desire. Does anyone have any ideas for the best fix .

[ascast]

handles NOT binding? remove handles, check for lead smears, drop etc. if found remove. other wise there is mostly a burr on the edge from rough handling or a burr has raised around the pin. A burr can be filed off without hurting the mold/cavities, just remove the burr. I find in used molds those with loose cutters, like fall open or closed of their weight, tend to have wallered out pin holes. Sometime people go too fast

[Catshooter]

After you do as ascast suggests, know that the alignment pins can be driven in/out for change of fit.


Cat

[longbow]

Also check for clearance on the handles. If the handles are too small or lack clearance they may be touching the mould blocks at the hinge end and preventing the blocks from closing. The handles can be filed if they are toughing the mould blocks. I've opened up single cavity mould handles to allow use of double cavity blocks.

If you need to drive the pin in a little more as Catshooter suggests, us a brass punch so you do not damage the pin or mould block if you slip while drifting the pin. It may well be sticking out a bit far.

Longbow

[country gent]

See if the blocks close or seat together correctly off the handles. Look for light between the blocks to check. If light shows the pins need adjusted . if there is movement of the blocks seated tight then the pins need adjusted. If there are problems when they go on the handles then the problem is with the handles. Sometimes the handles hit on the inside before the blocks are seated. This can be a mount hole slightly off location or a "thick" handle surface. A little work with a file can cure this or opening the mount hole a few thousandths (.005-.010) also may help. Handles tight in the moulds cuts can cause this also. a little draw filing on the top and bottom surfaces will give the relief and clearance needed.

[tinsnips]

Thank you guys for the help wasn't sure if you could tap the pins in. I did not have the handles on an I did hold it to the light . You can really tell you have a gap in the mold then.

[ascast]

Did you find a burr? or bent pin?


Also, if you drive the pins, well I use a phone book with pre-drilled holes to match the pins. Do not use wood as the growth rings can be hard enough to raise a burr on the cavity edge. I use steel punch and heavy hammer, like 4 lb. These pins will not move easily. I also use my calipers to measure my progress. Somtimes you can move them too far. You might want to take a practice run on a steel mold you don't use so much.

[rintinglen]

I recommend a brass or nylon punch and a careful, light whack with a hammer. A steel punch will mar the mold face if it slips far worse than a growth ring from a wooden punch.:oops: This I can attest to. You want the molds to just close with firm finger pressure. The pins, they will drive back out if hit on the base from the opposite side, so don't lose sleep over it if you get a little carried away and drive too deep.

[tinsnips]

Finally found a big enough brass punch it do the trick .Now works as advertised. Thank you everybody for your help.For the record I called Lyman just to see what they had to say.I know I am not going to purchase much from that company anymore. First they do not have anyone that can advise you on anything.They said I could send it in for minimum charge of 50 dollars to look at it. Told her good luck with that I will just buy a new one. Goodbye