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View Full Version : Controlled temp smelting....



TexasGrunt
03-09-2017, 07:35 PM
I wish I had taken some pics, I will do so next time.

Here's how I've got my smelting going. In this example I'm doing wheel weights. This takes a bit more time but the chances of melting zinc are zero since you never let the melt get hot enough to melt zinc.

1. Start with some lead in the pot. I always leave about 1/2-3/4" of lead in my dutch oven when I'm done.

2. Turn your heat source on a low setting. Throw some sawdust/wood shavings on the lead in the pot. I've been using cedar pet bedding from Walmart.

3. Put cover on pot till you see a good amount of smoke coming from pot.

4. The lead in the pot should be melted around now.

5. Place a handful, or two, of lead into the molten lead. You want just enough to turn the molten lead into a semi-solid state.

6. Throw some more wood flux in the mix and keep it moving. It should start out about as thick as a good brownie batter.

7. Once it's molten again you can pick out the zinc and steel.

8. Place enough new lead into the pot to cause the molten lead to return to a semi-solid state, and add some more wooden flux.

9. Keep doing this till your pot is full or you run out of lead. You can let the melt heat up and remove the clips when you get too many.

10. You'll probably have to slowly turn up the heat source to keep things going. I aim for about 1-2 minutes of semi-solid time each time.


I've got a nice casting skimmer from RotoMetals I use to stir the mix. It's easy to pick out the zinc and steel with a pair of pliers. When smelting COWWs my melt temp rarely hits 600° till I'm ready to pour. By starting with a molten puddle in the pot you eliminate the chance that zinc on the bottom will melt before the top of the pile gets hot.

By using this method, which takes a bit more time than just piling weights in the pot and turning it on high, you really don't have to sort your weights. I had some SOWWs in the bucket that I had to hold under the surface with my skimmer to get them to melt. They were just floating on top and not melting.

I use a lot of wooden flux in this method. The semi-solid state of the metal isn't hot enough to burn the cedar shavings, I have to wait till it turns to a liquid before it burns.

When I say semi-solid think good brownie batter or thick oatmeal. It's thick enough I can pick up a mound with my skimmer and nothing leaks from the holes.

Like I said this isn't the quickest way to smelt but it's way quicker than sorting through a big pile of weights.

308Jeff
03-09-2017, 07:43 PM
Good read.

I actually did something very similar to this the other night, and it works.

I stopped using my dykes to verify every single wheel weight was lead, so I wanted to be very careful about the temp of the pot. Through very low flame, I ended up with a similar "batter" several times during the melt. Turned out that I had 4 or 5 zinc weights in there (I'll try to take a pic of them tonight, they're the style that comes in both lead and zinc) and I got them pulled out before they melted.

I'm not sure if I'm gonna continue the slow melt, or go back to the using the dykes to cull the ones I'm not certain that they're lead.

By the way, how easy is it to tell if say one or two zinc somehow got past you and ended up as part of the alloy?

TexasGrunt
03-09-2017, 08:32 PM
One or two in 100 lbs of melt isn't going to cause any problems.

rancher1913
03-09-2017, 09:30 PM
thats pretty much what I have been doing for a good while now but we need to address safety----

adding anything to molten lead, can lead to a bad tinsel fairy visit, if you do it this way be very careful that there is no moisture or oil on the scrap being added to the pot

as I said I do it this way but this way is not right for everybody, so use your own due diligence when doing dangerous stuff.

308Jeff
03-09-2017, 09:57 PM
One or two in 100 lbs of melt isn't going to cause any problems.

Thank you, sir.

Cowboy_Dan
03-10-2017, 12:16 AM
To mitigate the risk of moisture on the added scrap, cut the fire and let the top solidify enough that dumping in more won't break through. I do it this way when I'm topping off my reclaimer and the pot goes molten again quickly.

Yodogsandman
03-10-2017, 12:27 AM
Anyone here even bother using a thermometer?

TexasGrunt
03-10-2017, 09:38 AM
I do, but with this method it's redundant.

TexasGrunt
03-10-2017, 09:39 AM
thats pretty much what I have been doing for a good while now but we need to address safety----

adding anything to molten lead, can lead to a bad tinsel fairy visit, if you do it this way be very careful that there is no moisture or oil on the scrap being added to the pot

as I said I do it this way but this way is not right for everybody, so use your own due diligence when doing dangerous stuff.

If I have questionable stuff I make sure to add enough clean stuff to turn the melt into mush. Then I throw on a layer of wood chips and then the questionable stuff. Put the lid on for a minute and everything is dry.

Yodogsandman
03-10-2017, 12:27 PM
How do you keep the lead from ruining your zinc?

rancher1913
03-10-2017, 03:16 PM
when done right any zinc that somehow made it in the pot will float just like the steel and you just scoop it out.

Yodogsandman
03-10-2017, 10:31 PM
when done right any zinc that somehow made it in the pot will float just like the steel and you just scoop it out.

I just don't see how to melt the zinc first
without a thermometer and without melting the lead first, at a lower melt temperature.

TexasGrunt
03-11-2017, 09:23 AM
I just don't see how to melt the zinc first
without a thermometer and without melting the lead first, at a lower melt temperature.

We don't want to melt the zinc.

rancher1913
03-11-2017, 10:04 AM
yodogsandman, you start with sorted big weights and once you have them melted you ad the smaller hard to sort weights, the melt keeps the heat even and any steel or zinc floats to the top. I have done this with all sorted and found a zinc that I had missed this way.