Lyman/Ideal #55 powder measure - slide use chart?

[bedbugbilly]

I just bought a vintage Ideal #55 measure that is in the original box but supposedly unused. I haven't got it yet but I did go to the Lyman site and uploaded the instruction sheet they have there for the current one. Always wanted one and since we will be moving from a house in to a condo when we get back to MI for the summer, I'll be making a new reloading bench in the basement and be able to expand a little bench wise. One end I want to set up for batch loading with my single stage, the 55, etc. and the other end I'll mount my Lee 4 hole turret for loading pistol.

I've done a search but haven't come up with what I'm looking for. I remember reading that there is a chart for the use of the "slides" and the ones to use or combination of slides to use for certain powders charges, etc. that would give the best results for the load weight and powder type.

Or . . . did I dream it? I realize that one has to play with it to get the correct weight of the powder you are trying to throw and check with a scale - but does such a chart exist to perhaps give the approximate settings and the slides to use and then you can fine tune it?

I did a search on the net and didn't come up with anything but it may have been I wasn't using the right search words?

If one exists, I'd sure appreciate a link to it or possibly someone could e-mail me a PDF of it?

Thanks.

For what it's worth, I usually use Bulls Eye, Red Dot, Unique - 38s, 9mm, 45 Colt/ACP so primarily pistol loads for batch loading on a single stage. I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure attached to my powder thru die when loading pistol on my Lee 4 hole turret. I also would like to use the 55 to throw Red Dot for my light 8mm Mauser and 30-30. Right now I use a dipper and trickler to weigh out my bottle neck charges for the batch loading I do for them.

Jim

[Mk42gunner]

Jim,

Have you checked on castpics? I did quite a bit of research when I got my first 55, and IIRC the markings are supposed to correspond to BP.

I just set mine to where it looks about right and then start weighing charges, no way am I going to trust "I think it is this line that gives me x.x grains of ?? powder."

Robert

[bedbugbilly]

Robert -

Thanks for the reply. I did look on CastPics but so far haven't found anything yet.

I fully agree with you about not trusting markings and I ALWAYS weigh when setting up any powder measure - and I never trust the markings I put down when I'm recording the settings I used the next time I set it up at a later date. I'm maybe a little OCD but once I get a measure set up . . . or even when I'm using a dipper and I am pretty consistent with one - I check about every 5 rounds just to make sure everything remains kosher - I'd rather catch it and find out after 5 rounds than to discover something isn't quite right after a large quantity and have to pull and dump them.

IIRC - what I read about was a chart that could be used as a general guide for various charges and powders for what slides worked best for consistent flow and charges in the 55 - say a certain charge of Bulls Eye - slide 1 could be used or to get a better and more consistent flow, slide 1 and 2 could be used in conjunction with each other to get the same charge but the measure would be more efficient and consistent - if that makes sense?

Not having ever used one, I figure the best way is to just sit down and "practice" setting and throwing the load weights in the powders and weight loads I use. Easy enough to do with just sitting and playing and weighing on the beam scale until I get it figured out. I was hoping that there might be a chart like I was asking about that could be used as a reference and which might explain the use of a single slide or the combined use of two slides together to get the most accurate weights out of the scale.

Thanks again and I'll keep looking - maybe someone will come along that will have further info.

Jim

[too many things]

its going to be a trial/error thing. Rule of thumb is for the large stick like 4350 use the main ,with the tops even, for flake like reddot close main and use top 2. for ball use the top 2 and for small charge like 2 to 9 use only the top.
again it your call but has worked for 40yrs for me

[bedbugbilly]

thanks too many - that helps!

[Maven]

bbb, The chart you're thinking of may be for the Ideal/Lyman pistol powder measure with its various fixed rotors. (Said chart isn't very accurate, btw.) For the #55, I generally use all 3 slides, but the trick is to keep careful records of the position of the slides for each powder charge and powder type/name, i.e., a spreadsheet of sorts. That way, you can, with the assistance of a scale, quickly reestablish a given charge weight for a particular powder.

[KenT7021]

There was a chart for setting the 55.I found it somewhere on the internet a while back.I'll try to find it again or I can mail you a copy.I am not computer adept.Lyman quit furnishing the chart years ago because of liability.

[country gent]

I don't know about a chart for initial settings.. But if you write the slide settings down in your load notes for each of the 3 slides when it is time to duplicate that load it will get you pretty close

[OS OK]

The numbers will only complicate your loading experience and give you another thing to document and keep track of.

The numbers do not represent grains.

The large bar is your coarse adjustment and the small bar is the fine adjustment...prolly something like a 95% to 5% ratio.
You'll get used to using it that way and adjustment will get faster with use.

Double tap it upon pick-up and delivery and that insures a complete load and discharge.

It's running neck and neck with my RCBS Uniflow for favorite dispenser.

[KenT7021]

The chart is the antique reloading tools website.

[Kenstone]

I just bought a vintage Ideal #55 measure that is in the original box but supposedly unused. I haven't got it yet but I did go to the Lyman site and uploaded the instruction sheet they have there for the current one. Always wanted one and since we will be moving from a house in to a condo when we get back to MI for the summer, I'll be making a new reloading bench in the basement and be able to expand a little bench wise. One end I want to set up for batch loading with my single stage, the 55, etc. and the other end I'll mount my Lee 4 hole turret for loading pistol.

I've done a search but haven't come up with what I'm looking for. I remember reading that there is a chart for the use of the "slides" and the ones to use or combination of slides to use for certain powders charges, etc. that would give the best results for the load weight and powder type.

Or . . . did I dream it? I realize that one has to play with it to get the correct weight of the powder you are trying to throw and check with a scale - but does such a chart exist to perhaps give the approximate settings and the slides to use and then you can fine tune it?

I did a search on the net and didn't come up with anything but it may have been I wasn't using the right search words?

If one exists, I'd sure appreciate a link to it or possibly someone could e-mail me a PDF of it?

Thanks.

For what it's worth, I usually use Bulls Eye, Red Dot, Unique - 38s, 9mm, 45 Colt/ACP so primarily pistol loads for batch loading on a single stage. I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure attached to my powder thru die when loading pistol on my Lee 4 hole turret. I also would like to use the 55 to throw Red Dot for my light 8mm Mauser and 30-30. Right now I use a dipper and trickler to weigh out my bottle neck charges for the batch loading I do for them.

Jim

I believe the chart was for a Lyman #55 with a "Culver" conversion (spindle), used mostly by bench rest shooters.
:smile:

[Char-Gar]

You will find the Lyman 55 chart is most Lyman loading manuals. A phone call to Lyman will bring you one in the mail.

[too many things]

and after you read the lyman chart. you will add it to the trash bin. its just a GUESS chart as there are so many powders now it wont even be close
as said its trial /error
you can close the top 2 and open the bottom to 50. if you use 4350 it would be close--If you use 4320 it will be way off
if you use reddot it would be 50% or more off
what i posted earlier has worked very good for 40yrs so i am too old to change now
the marks will help you if you make a note of them and the powder /weight you are using . i do have a cheat sheet. it will get me close but not right just in the 2 to 3 gr area

[KenT7021]

antiquereloadingtools.com.Go to forums,Ideal subforum.On first page click on 55 manual.Second pdf is the chart.The chart is indeed in some of the older Lyman manuals.Somewhere around 37 to 41 editions.

[s1120]

Once you get it down its really pretty easy.. Just set the main slide so the charge is just a tick short, and fine adjust with the small slide.. Really within a min you got it. You can mark down the main slide point in your records if you want, but just your eyeballs, and tossing a few case loads, you will get there.

[bedbugbilly]

A big thanks to you all - I greatly appreciate your responses.

I figured it was probably a "trial and error" learning on it so I'll spend some time playing and throwing charges/weighing when I get it set up.

I'm a "right brained person" who has been married to a "left brained" wife for 45 years - plus she was a well organized teacher her entire career - I would have never made it in her class! Ha! But, when it comes to reloading, I have taught myself to be very "anal" and I keep a notebook page on each cartridge/load that I do. Once I get the charged down, it will be an easy thing to record the settings to use the next time as a "reference" when setting up the load drop grain weight. I'm not "high tech" but it may even pay to take a quick close up picture of the setting and run a copy off on the printer to staple to the load sheet for a reference. That may be over thinking it but sometimes it's quite a while between loadings of a certain cartridge/boolit and a "jog" to the old memory would be helpful I'm sure.

Again, many thanks for all the information - I'm looking forward to getting this measure and adding it to the bench. The 55 is a "classic" for sure and I don't think I have ever heard or talked with anyone who has one that doesn't like them!

Jim

[Char-Gar]

Once you get it down its really pretty easy.. Just set the main slide so the charge is just a tick short, and fine adjust with the small slide.. Really within a min you got it. You can mark down the main slide point in your records if you want, but just your eyeballs, and tossing a few case loads, you will get there.

That has pretty much been my experience as well. I have eight of these measure above me as I key this end. I keep them set for 2, 3, 3.5, 4.5,5, 6.5 grains of Bullseye. I also have on set fof 10 grains of 2400.

I also have a RCBS Little Dandy and a full set of rotors which I use allot. But, when I want EXACT charges of Bullseye, I pull down one the the Lyman 55s.

There is a fellow that makes and sells on Ebay powder weights for these measures as well as many other makes. I have one that floats between the various 55s and another for the RCBS LD. These things work, and produce very uniform small charge weight throws of various pistol powders.

Here is a pic of a Lyman 55 with the powder weight at work.

[bedbugbilly]

Thanks Char Gar - I'll check that powder weight out as it looks like a nifty little gadget.

We are moving from a house to a condo when we get back to MI for the summer so it will be "new reloading bench time". There is an area in the basement that I can spread out a little more than where I'm at now so it will probably be 2 benches instead of one. I have a feeling I am really going to like the 55 and am planning on making the bench so I can have more than one measure - it would be ideal (no pun intended) to have several and leave them set up as you do.

Thanks again - appreciate the photo and info!

Jim

[Char-Gar]

Thanks Char Gar - I'll check that powder weight out as it looks like a nifty little gadget.

We are moving from a house to a condo when we get back to MI for the summer so it will be "new reloading bench time". There is an area in the basement that I can spread out a little more than where I'm at now so it will probably be 2 benches instead of one. I have a feeling I am really going to like the 55 and am planning on making the bench so I can have more than one measure - it would be ideal (no pun intended) to have several and leave them set up as you do.

Thanks again - appreciate the photo and info!

Jim

I am a fan of these measures as they are an icon of Post-War reloading. The first ones came out in 1947 and are still produced today. There have been some minor changes over the years, but they are essentially the same measure. I have at least one of each generation.

They never seem to wear out. They are easy to dissemble and clean. If there is any rust or bad brass tarnish, some 000 steel wool will take it off. Lubricate these from time to time with a little fine graphite and never oil of any type.

I don't use them for long stick rifle powders. I have an old Hollywood I use for that.

[bedbugbilly]

Well . . . the 55 arrived in the mail yesterday. It's in the original box - my guess is probably made in the 50s? I couldn't be happier . . . orange paint looks like new, both powder drops, powder cylinder 7 dip - it doesn't look like it was ever used. I can easily see why these are so popular.

Char Gar - You're a bad influence! LOL I like this measure so much that I can easily see ending up with three or four side by side and each one set up for various powders/loads.

Thanks for the information - greatly appreciated!

Jim

[Mk42gunner]

Since you record everything in a notebook, you could use the depth measuring feature on a set of dial calipers to record how much of each slide protrudes from the body.

I really like the Lyman 55 for small charges, it really makes loading for the various .32's easy.

Robert

[Bmi48219]

This may be going against the grain but I set mine with all three slides opened evenly so the wall of charge chamber is smooth, top to bottom. Mine is the older model w/o the micro screw adjuster. I open the slides together to get a little over the desired weight, then gently Tap them in together to get down to what I want. Also, I alway dump the first load after a tap, figure I may be compressing the charge in the chamber & getting a little more than on subsequent charges. I find it's a lot easier to tap in in small increments than to pull the slides out a micro amount. Sounds like a lot of work but it usually only takes a minute.
one other thing is the rapper weight.
I bounce the rapper weight once, then tap the charge handle twice against the top stop to fill & tap handle twice again at bottom when dropping the charge. Bounce the rapper more than once & the charge weight goes up a little.
If I keep the powder hopper near full, the charge weights are +\- .05 grains ( one half of a tenth of a grain) every time. That's with using Unique or Herco. The 55 is even more consistent with finer powder like Titegroup. I have two, one set at 13.7 grains 4227 (30 carbine) & one at 5.4 grains Unique (9 mm & 45 acp). Great measure for the $$.

[44magLeo]

I set mine by setting all the slides to zero. I then open all three most of the way. I then use my scale to get a charge. I pour this charge in the hopper and turn the slides up so the powder gets into the opening. Move the measure around to get all the powder down into the open slides. Now I push the slides in till the powder rises up to the top of the slides and is rounded up to about match the curve of the slides.
If your powder charge is small enough to have the opening to narrow try again with just the two top slides.
Once you get this preliminary setting Mount the measure as you use it. Fill hopper with your powder. Dump 2 or 3 charges to settle the powder. Now weigh a charge. It should be very close. Make any small adjustments with the top slides.
It takes longer to describe than to do.
I was looing through my stuff for something else and found an old instruction sheet for a 55 measure and it had an adjustment chart. The chart covers powders. 6 of the powders I don't think exist anymore.
The Herecles Bullseye, Unique and 2400 might still be close. It has 8 Dupont powders that may be close for IMR powders. A few Hodgen powders and 1 Winchester powder.
I think if I wanted to have a chart I would make one for myself. Take what ever powder you want to use and start with all three slides set at say 35. weigh out enough charges to determine what that setting gives you. Open out to say 65, repeat the charges. out to 95 repeat. Using these weights you can figure out how much each marking will change the charge weight.
Now do the same with just the top two slides. For these two use the small rear markings. 12, 24 and 36 should give you the figures for two slides.
Just the top slide you use the large front markings. 4,8,12 should work for that one.
Do this for each powder you use.
Some powders using just the top slide won't work well, like course powders like 4831 and such.
For fast burning pistol powders you won't use charges big enough to use all three.
I just never desired a chart that much.
Now if the graduations on the slides could be in cc's then you could use Lee's powder density calculations to set the slides. But even that sound like to much work.
Leo

[onelight]

My method is very ugh like 44magleo it is as quick as I have found to get it set.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve always set my 55s by trial and error. When you get used to, it doesn’t take long.

[Winnie1886-4065TC]

I just got one of these from a friend who has stopped reloading. I like its features and is in really good shape. like some of the others have said on here its really a trial and error style of setup, don't trust the numbers. but the same can be said for the old workhorse that I have been using before I got the lyman. especially on 4320 or other like stick powders I get close with the measure and trickle in the rest on the scale. at this moment in time I cannot justify the $400 automeasure machines, and if I am truly honest with myself speed wasn't what I got into reloading for it just helps on the rounds I shoot a lot of (45acp and 223).

[44magLeo]

I have this set of instructions. It has a hole where it was creased. This hole is by the Hodgen 4831 powder. I found another set of instructions online and it wasn't any easier to read, poor copy.
I don't know if this is good or not.
Leo

[Conditor22]

https://i.imgur.com/3Y6VUJf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aBexcwk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/V0PyjDk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lhU6b5v.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KEV07JW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fU8JeMf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/eijIg5w.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/88SAjIj.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ZpdPQDv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Jrnx6Ia.jpg

[44magLeo]

GRMPS, Your copy looks much better than mine. From the look of the pic on the front it looks like it was for a more recent version than the one mine came with.
The knocker in the pic looks to be made with a flat steel strap curled for the pivot pin and wrapped around the knocker. On two of mine the knocker is a cast item. The third one is missing the knocker. Looks easy enough to make one.
Leo

[Leoparddog]

I have an older #55 and have used it a lot for rifle and larger handgun loads like .357 and .45LC but recently when trying to throw 7.5 gr loads of flake powder for .45ACP it gave me complete fits. Sometimes it would throw 6gr and sometimes 8 gr(over max load). I tried closing all three and just using the top slide and tried working with the middle slide and adjusting it. I never could get it to throw exactly the right charge and ended up weighing and trickling each one. Argh.

[gwpercle]

I just got one of these from a friend who has stopped reloading. I like its features and is in really good shape. like some of the others have said on here its really a trial and error style of setup, don't trust the numbers. but the same can be said for the old workhorse that I have been using before I got the lyman. especially on 4320 or other like stick powders I get close with the measure and trickle in the rest on the scale. at this moment in time I cannot justify the $400 automeasure machines, and if I am truly honest with myself speed wasn't what I got into reloading for it just helps on the rounds I shoot a lot of (45acp and 223).

The secrete is to set the slides to form a deep narrow cavity and practice until you get a consistent powder handle operation every time , set and operated like this it will get you consistent drops with flake powders (Bullseye and Unique) and stick rifle powders (like H4895).
The 55 will measure anything if you set the cavity correctly and operate it consistently !
I bought my first one in 1968 so have had some working time with it .
Gary

[Leoparddog]

The secrete is to set the slides to form a deep narrow cavity and practice until you get a consistent powder handle operation every time , set and operated like this it will get you consistent drops with flake powders (Bullseye and Unique) and stick rifle powders (like H4895).
The 55 will measure anything if you set the cavity correctly and operate it consistently !
I bought my first one in 1968 so have had some working time with it .
Gary
Thanks! Mine didn't come with any instructions. Never had any trouble throwing consistent loads until these light 45 ACP loads.

[str8wal]

I use the small slide until it runs out of range, then return it and go to the next slide and so-forth and so-on. A deep narrow cavity and stick or bulky powders will not yield the most consistent results.

[robg]

used minr since 82 adjust by trial and error doesnt to long ,i try to use fine powder in it as i dont like the crunching of some powders so i use a lee ppm for them

[C.F.Plinker]

The charts posted above in posts 27 & 28 are saying that slide #3 (which is the one printed on the body of the rotor) goes from either 0 or 30 up to 100 in steps of 5. This is used for large charges generally for rifle. The first question I have is does the scale go from 0 -100 or from 30 - 100 and how long is the scale in inches.

The reason I ask is that my recently purchased 55 has a different #3 scale. It goes from 0 - 8 in steps of 1 and is 0.8 inches long. The manual does not give any indication of how to use it. I did figure out that each step is 0.95 cc and corresponds to going from 0 to 14 on the #1 scale.

In going through other threads I learned that there are also D (for drams?) and G scales. Does anyone have data on these scales (Range, steps, and length)?

As always, thanks in advance.

[44magLeo]

On the three I have the main slide Is marked with two scales. One starts at 10 and goes to 140 in increments of 5 with a G at the end.
The other scale reads from 1/2 to 5 in 1/4 increments with a D at the end.
The D stands for Drams, as in measuring black powder. The G is Grains. Probably in black powder too.
These scales don't start at zero. They start at an opening that gives you a usable charge of powder accurately. The length of the scale covers charges that are usable in most firearms of the period.
Those charts were made when there were just a few powders available. I think even then they were not supposed to be exact but close enough so you could use a scale to fine tune from there.
Nowadays most of us Kinda ignore them to set up the measure for a particular charge of powder then write down the scale markings to easier set the measure for that powder charge.
I think you are overthinking how to use this fine measure.
Leo

[C.F.Plinker]

Thanks for your information. It was very helpful to me.

Overthinking things has been a lifelong trait of mine. I don't know if I could stop even if I wanted to.

I had fun coming up with a spreadsheet that shows the starting setting for the powders and charges that I use. We both got to the same destination but by different paths.

Thanks again for your help.