Marlin misfires

[richhodg66]

I know this is a problem that has been addressed with Marlin lever guns, but I'd like to see if I can narrow it down before trying to tackle the problem.

I bought a lever action target rifle in .38-55 built on an old waffle top, it looks like my late '40s .32 Special. Anyway, whoever did the work, put a 26" Octagon barrel and a tang sight with globe front and it has a stellar trigger pull.

It will misfire every time, but if I cock the hammer and try again on the same round it went off 100% of the time. I put 40 rounds through it yesterday and it was absolutely consistent in this.

I am using some very old Winchester brass. Could rim thickness or primer seating depth be the problem? I used two different types of primers, Winchester and Tula, it did the exact same thing with both.

Gonna pull the bolt and soak it in some solvent and see if a good cleaning helps, but if not, what's the path of least resistance for trouble shooting this?

[sghart3578]

When you take the bolt out and shake it do you hear the firing pin move freely? If not then you may have to remove the firing pin and soak everything in solvent.


Steve in N CA

[imashooter2]

Primers not fully seated?

[richhodg66]

Primers not fully seated?

I don't think that's it. I seat primers for small lots like this on my Rockchucker. Checked each one before putting them back in the loading block. I also think if that was the cause it would have misfired more sporadically, it was amazingly consistent; never set them off the first time but always on the second.

I haven't taken the bolt out yet. Before I do anything else, I'm gonna prime a different type of brass and check that.

[Norbrat]

I know this is a problem that has been addressed with Marlin lever guns, but I'd like to see if I can narrow it down before trying to tackle the problem.

I bought a lever action target rifle in .38-55 built on an old waffle top, it looks like my late '40s .32 Special. Anyway, whoever did the work, put a 26" Octagon barrel and a tang sight with globe front and it has a stellar trigger pull.

If it has a "stellar" trigger pull, chances are the hammer spring has been cut to reduce the pressure on the sear.

Next time a round won't fire on the first pull, eject it and have a look at the primer strike. It is likely a light strike.


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[bassnbuck]

If you want to keep the trigger pull as is,you could try federal primers. They will ignight with a lighter hammer strike.

[flyin brian]

I've had a similar problem on multiple Marlins. Most of the time it was fixed with a new hammer spring from Wisners. Once it was a firing pin that was previously broken and brazed back together crooked, so replacing the from firing pin fixed that one.
Good luck!

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[Bzcraig]

When you take the bolt out and shake it do you hear the firing pin move freely? If not then you may have to remove the firing pin and soak everything in solvent.

Had similar problem with a Rossi and this was the solution. The firing pin was so mucked up it was ridiculous

[Gtek]

Remove bolt and completely disassemble, confirm clean and freedom of front pin movement and about .040"-.063" pin protrusion (just cause you ain't been/seen there yet). This removes that possibility from the get go. Has the main spring been "touched" or replaced, who knows but a new one will fix that. Just for fun have head space checked. Original measurement was min. 063" + .010" and most brass you will find runs .059"-.061" on rims making bad worse. My money is on WD-40 in firing pin hole and light spring.

[Jcduff936]

It wouldn't surprise me to find Tula primers a bit harder but the Winchesters shouldn't be. Federal might help, but honestly I think the problem is one or more of 3 things that the others have mentioned.
1) If you're primers aren't 100% seated, the firing pin will have to seat it before it actually deforms the cup therefore reducing the deformation slightly.

2) Gunk on the firing pin can cause enough friction to slow the pin causing the same effect.

3) A weak spring never has the power to fully deform the cup.

These may be combined causing more trouble to identify the problem. My money is on the spring being cut or just weak from age. A dirty firing pin can sometimes be felt dry firing.

I would personally try to clean the firing pin and it's channel, seat a few primers fully in cases but not load powder or bullets. Then use these like snap caps. If the condition still exists, try a few primed only 30-30 cases as already mentioned. Again, my money is on the spring so all of that effort is probably going to be wasted. Good luck.

[catskinner]

Easiest thing to check is the main spring adjustment. If it is in the rear slot move it and try it. I have had this problem with a couple of waffle tops. Nice trigger pull but misfires. Easy to check. One screw to remove and pull the but stock and you can see the main spring.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I have a couple Marlin's with 'generous' headspace, on the high side of SAAMI specs. I have also measured many many case rims (30-30, 32 Spcl) at .055-.056, bottom end of SAAMI specs. I have had a few light strikes with one 32 Spcl and A very old lot of 1970's Magnum Rifle primers. A new 'standard' firing pin spring(mainspring?) and soaking all crud and old oil from the firing pin and bolt usually solves the problem. You DO NOT need a weak firing pin spring to get a 2.5-3 lb trigger pull on a Marlin.

[OverMax]

Just saying:
Since the rifle is used. Seems to me there are only few things that have a effect on reliability. Hammer spring_ High sitting primers_ dirty bolt/firing pin spring. My guess the previous owner swapped out the factory hammer spring with a lighter lb one or removed all tension on the rifles main spring tension'ing screw.

[izzyjoe]

I've had this problem with a few Marlins, sometimes wd-40 was the culprit, cause it gunks up! One time was my fault, I ground to much off the spring trying to reduce the trigger pull, but a small washer solved that. Primer seating depth Is another thing to consider, when one of them fails to fire wait a few seconds , and remove it and look at the primer, does it look like a light strike? The first strike sets the primer, and the next fires it. I had another issue with a 35 Rem, but that was do to over sizing the cases, but they are rimless, and 38-55 has a rim. I'm sure you will figure it out, just take it one step at a time, and try not to over think it.

[Irascible]

I just went through a similar problem on an early '50s 336A in 35 Remington. The cause was the sear hitting the end of the 1/2 cock notch. Pull the stock and forend and drop the bottom out of the action. If the tip of the 1/2 cock notch is peened over get out a small file and clean off the peened over part. This was all caused by the trigger hitting the back of the trigger guard, stopping it too soon to clear the notch. I filled, ground, polished and re-blued the area that interfeared. While I was at it, I also installed a Wild West trigger assembly. It works great now. I guess the previous owner got tired of misfires and sold it cheap. Great rifle now. Makes me want to hang up the camo and get out my old red and black plaid jacket!

[Irascible]

As long as I'm here, the 336A came with a vintage, steel tube Weaver K3 which is a tad dim. Who does cleaning and service on these old scopes? I doubt Weaver would.

[gnostic]

Sounds like a light primer strike, 'it has a stellar trigger pull.' When I get that trigger pull weight down where I like it, I begin getting FTF issues...