Gathering parts

[marlinman93]

Picked up a black powder era Rolling Block barreled action not long ago. Plan is to build a .40-65 Sporting Rifle on the action. The .43 Spanish barrel is perfect, but no interest to me. I already have a .40 caliber Green Mountain full octagon barrel 35" long, that will get cut to 34". Numrich bought all of Remington's leftover parts, so went to their site and ordered a pistol grip lower trigger plate, and a deluxe stock set. The stocks come with casehardened buttplate, and forearm tip. They also are checkered and finished, so hoped they'd be a good fit to my action! I also ordered all the separate parts to assemble a Remington long range vernier tang sight. Very reasonably priced for everything!! Stock sets were under $200, and tang sight parts were around $165.
Yesterday all the parts arrived and in great shape! The stock set is absolutely gorgeous, and cut checkering is really nice! Took a few minutes and assembled the tang sight. It's a nice sight and is very tight, so should work quite well. No windage adjustment, but I prefer windage globes anyway.
I checked the fit of the lower tang to my receiver, and the lower tang is slightly wider by a few thousandths. Wont take much draw filing to get a perfect fit. The stocks are cut for that lower tang, but since they copy a sporting action, the upper tang of my military donor needs to be slimmed down to fit the top inletting. I need to anneal the receiver for polishing anyway, so I'll wait to narrow it after it's annealed. Once the barrel is fitted, and all is polished out, I'll send it off for rust bluing and color case work.
I got the last octagon deluxe forearm they had in stock, and the last complete set of vernier sight parts! Not my usual luck, as normally I order right after they run out of something!
Here's the buttstock Numrich sent:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/DSCF5314_1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/marlinguy/media/DSCF5314_1.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/DSCF5316_3.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/marlinguy/media/DSCF5316_3.jpg.html)

[marlinman93]

Spent some time after lunch working the trigger plate down. It fit great at the front, but the micrometer told me it was about .020" too wide at the last half of the plate. So used a draw file to remove .010" off each side by hand, and it's a nice snug fit now.

http://i.imgur.com/qdJ3nrEl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ep1nqrdl.jpg

Need to maybe remove a little more for a slip fit. Also need to remove some height and shape the trigger plate, as it sits below the receiver slightly. It's very hard steel, so needs annealing also. Looks like the upper tang is thicker than the inletting of the wood. Once it's narrowed and I can test fit it, I'll know if it needs thickness taken off it also.
Also need to decide if I modify the trigger plate at the rear for attachment. Military receivers use a through bolt, and sporting receivers use a screw threaded into the trigger plate from each side, to accommodate single set triggers. I can either drill the bosses out, or drill and countersink the right receiver hole, and add a screw there.

[Chill Wills]

Wow! I am totally impressed with the stock. I did not know this was still available. Good job!
Are you thinking you might couture the hammer and do anything with the top of the receiver ring?

[marlinman93]

Wow! I am totally impressed with the stock. I did not know this was still available. Good job!
Are you thinking you might couture the hammer and do anything with the top of the receiver ring?

I didn't either until recently, and glad I ordered before they were gone!
I will contour the hammer spur and the breechblock spur. Breech block wont take much, except a little concave to the back side. I'll overlay my sporting hammer and mark this hammer to shape it closer.
BP receivers are not as thick as a smokeless Rolling Block receiver in the shank area, so not much to work with there. Considered just flattening the octagon shape, but leaving the corners rounded. Not sure that's a good look. Early Sporting Rifles were round top, so this may stay round top for strength.

[Kraschenbirn]

Thanks for the 'heads up' on Numrich have RB parts. I've got a semi-bubba'd #5 (smokeless) that needs a barrel and I've been thinking, maybe, 44-77 or .40-65. Will check there and see what I can find.

Bill

[marlinman93]

Thanks for the 'heads up' on Numrich have RB parts. I've got a semi-bubba'd #5 (smokeless) that needs a barrel and I've been thinking, maybe, 44-77 or .40-65. Will check there and see what I can find.

Bill

They only have 30" .45-70 half octagon barrels. But since you have a #5 Rolling Block those barrels may not fit! The #5 was the only Rolling Block to use the larger barrel shank, and wont interchange with other Rolling Block barrels.
If you got one of those barrels I'm unsure if you could cut off the threads and cut new threads, as diameter might not be large enough to allow the larger #5 threaded shank. It takes a #3.5 sized barrel to have enough meat. So regardless of which barrel you use, be sure it can be cut to the 1.055" thread diameter used on a #5. Original barrels were 1.12" round at the receiver. An octagon barrel would need to be 1.125" across the flats to butt up against the receiver and give good support and full threads.

[marlinman93]

Looks like I need to gather another part or do a repair to the breech block. The block was once a RF block, and someone converted it to CF, but not a good conversion! They simply milled a new angle hole to the CF position, but didn't fill the old hole in the block. They filled the tip hole in the face of the block. In doing the new hole they missed the center, so instead they made up an offset tip on the firing pin to fix their mistake! That pin was broken and stuck, and they snapped the head off the retaining screw. By the time I got it all removed and saw what they'd done I had made a new offset pin, but it's just not right. Need to bush or weld the block and then bore a proper hole to accept a factory correct firing pin. Or just toss this block and get a donor block. Might even consider going to a rotay extractor block, so it has more leverage to extract a stuck case.

[marlinman93]

A good friend saved my project this weekend! I was at our local collector's gun show at OAC and he came up and handed me a package. I opened it, and inside was a old breech block for a sliding extractor Rolling Block, complete with firing pin! It's going to need some polishing to remove light pitting, but it's a huge step forward over repairing the other block I have! And at $15 it will keep my budget down too!
I installed it in the action and checked it for square to the bore, and it will likely need a little work at the back where it rests on the hammer to get it true, but that's pretty minor. Will take the block and receiver to the welder next week and have the tang crack repaired, and the breech block built up, so I fit it properly. One step closer to fitting the barrel, and then polishing everything before I send it out for casehardening and rust blue!

[marlinman93]

Today I got the cracked upper tang welded, along with a small build up on the new old breech block to close up some slop in the block-hammer clearances. Also to ensure the block was square with the barrel at the chamber, so brass wont be ruined on firing.
Got all the welds worked down, and tried the action into the buttstock again to ensure all still fits after tang weld. Test fitted the Remington forearm to the #3.5 weight Green Mountain barrel and it's a perfect fit, so no opening up of forearm wood or metal tip! Checked the round shank area of the GM barrel for length, and it's 1/10" longer than receiver, so the barrel will have a nice little round to octagon fluted area that will look nicer.
Just need to start polishing the receiver parts, and waiting for my buddy to get time free to fit and chamber the barrel. It's 35" long now, and I want it to be 34" finished length. Might be fall before he's got some time, and I'll be practicing my engraving on scrap plates in the interim, to see if I can get acceptable to do some borders and scroll work.
Camera broke last week, so no pictures until I get a new one soon! Here's an old picture of the receiver:
http://i.imgur.com/4jOWSpOl.jpg

[pull the trigger]

I didn't know you were an engraver. Show us your practice work please.

[marlinman93]

I didn't know you were an engraver. Show us your practice work please.

Oh, I'd never pass myself off as an engraver! I have a good friend who is a Guild engraver, and has been trying to show me how to engrave. To date I've not touched an action or gun part with a cutter! My practice sessions are relegated to steel plates so I can clear them on the belt sander and do over. Nothing I'd ever consider putting to a fine action yet!
But I hope to be passable enough at some point that I'd at least mess up my own gun! Still waiting on my replacement camera after mine broke 3 weeks ago, so couldn't take pictures. But if it was here, I'm not sure I'd want to show my mediocre scratchings yet.

[GOPHER SLAYER]

marlinman, it would be nice if you could find a hammer like this one. I was told it was made for a Swedish rolling block shotgun. I have never seen another.

[marlinman93]

marlinman, it would be nice if you could find a hammer like this one. I was told it was made for a Swedish rolling block shotgun. I have never seen another.

Yes, that's a good looking hammer! I've owned a number of Swede and Dane Rollers, but never seen a hammer like that? Guessing it must be from some commercial or rework, and not a military Swede Roller.
I rework the military hammers to give them a similar look, and lighten the hammers. It reduces lock time and with a good trigger return spring they become very nice hammer/trigger setups. Still need to do more work on this hammer to get it down smaller. I'll post pictures once I replace my camera soon.
I have another early 11.7 Danish military Roller coming soon. Just purchased it from a gun shop up north of me. Was hoping for another donor action, but pictures showed a pretty nice gun, so likely wont break it down to use.

[marlinman93]

Been a long time since I've done anything on this Rolling Block Creedmoor clone project! But it's finally coming closer to the end! Finished all the fitting of wood to receiver, and polished out the receiver parts. Packed up the barrel and all the parts to send to Al Springer for rust bluing and color case! Will be shipping them out this week, and hopefully be done and ready for laod work up before Christmas.
Since Photobucket messed up, here's some replacement images of the stocks back when I started this.

https://i.imgur.com/NDOhKLrl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7OlIvW4l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qdJ3nrEl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ep1nqrdl.jpg

And this is what I'm attempting to copy, except I'll be doing a full octagon 34" barrel on mine:

http://media.liveauctiongroup.net/i/14389/14555071_4.jpg?v=8CF9A3B65260DF0

[Chill Wills]

Do you think you will make the Creedmoor weight limit? What was it? 10 lbs even? Single trigger. Not less than 3 lb break. Or am I confusing this? This, from the top of my head......

I have had my hands on a few Creedmoors, never owned one and maybe never will.

[marlinman93]

Well since the Creedmoor match doesn't exist any longer, I'm not concerned about making the old 1870's weight limit of 10 lbs. Even if I turned the barrel half octagon I doubt the #3.5 weight GM barrel would allow the gun to come in under the old 10 lb. limit. My caliber wont be typical Creedmoor rifle either, as those were .44-77 Rem.-Sharps Bottleneck, loaded with 90 grs. of BP to make them a .44-90.
In looking at Marcot's Rolling Block Sporting Rifle book I saw examples of Creedmoor Rolling Blocks with full octagon barrels built back in the day with full octagon barrels, and also some with single set triggers. So guessing some owners ordered those guns without the thought of competing at Creedmoor even back then.
Wish I could afford an original like the image I posted, as my preference is always for originals with that gorgeous patina! But considering I've never seen a real Creedmoor Rolling Block under $6k I'll have to settle for building this one under $1,000. Building for the general appearance, in a caliber that's easier on my shoulder, so more fun to shoot! Guessing it will weigh around 11-11.5 lbs. and in .40-65 should be a sweetheart to shoot all day!

[Chill Wills]

Well since the Creedmoor match doesn't exist any longer, I'm not concerned about making the old 1870's weight limit of 10 lbs.

Right.

I just thought I would ask if you intended to make a real Creedmoor or something else you enjoy, like a Creedmoor. What ever you create is good with me.
If you are not a competitor it does not mater. There are those of us that still wish we could get enough interest to recreate a match in the old style.
Modern Creedmoor, fun as it is, does not hold my interest as much. If I build a Creedmoor some day, it would fit the old rules in hopes of a match.

[marlinman93]

I have an original Ballard #7 Long Range in .44-100 that was built to meet Creedmoor rules. It came with a 535 gr. bullet mold! If by chance some organization was to ever reintroduce another 800-1000 yd. match under the Creedmoor rules I'm set with that gun. But 10 lb. rifles in Creedmoor calibers are NOT fun to shoot much! They will kick the heck out of me, and 90-100 grain charges are pretty stiff with over 500 gr. bullets! Not my idea of fun!

https://i.imgur.com/BqoTLOZl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zHy32rnl.jpg

[Chill Wills]

Nice Ballard! I am much more the competitor, then accumulator, and not so much collector.
Mostly, I am attracted to rifles I can shoot, and I am attracted to historic matches.
However, I do very much admire great rifle collections. Off and on I am a member of the Colorado Gun Collectors assoc. as time permits, and it is not too often I miss the May show.

You write: "I have an original Ballard #7 Long Range in .44-100 that was built to meet Creedmoor rules. It came with a 535 gr. bullet mold! If by chance some organization was to ever reintroduce another 800-1000 yd. match under the Creedmoor rules I'm set with that gun."

You have said you only shoot smokeless and cannot take the recoil of the large Creedmoor calibers, so maybe no chance of that.

There are small groups of us that desire to shoot LR matches close to the old rules now. However, because most competitors have rifles that make the 13lb limit, and there is little incentive to build a 10lb rifle other than the joy of shooting something like "back when", it may be that never in my lifetime we have a pure Creedmoor rules match. I would be one of the first in line should the chance come.

I think it could happen should we entice the Oakridge guys to shoot against the breach-loaders in a recreation match.

Got any more originals to show us :grin: ? I always like looking!

BTW - it has been through the CGC that I have had my hands on a fair number of the old Creedmoors. One being a 1877 Sharps. You cann't do that every day! Holding someones elses is free.

Best,

[marlinman93]

I try to make the CGCA show every May also! It's one of my favorite shows in the USA!

Yes, I also don't own anything I don't shoot, but as I mentioned not enjoying full loads in guns like my #7 Long Range Ballard, I use reduced smokeless loads and lighter bullets of around 325 grs. The old 535 gr. mold doesn't see any use, but it stays with everything else I got with the gun when I bought it.
I enjoy collecting, and accumulating, but don't own anything I wont shoot. All of mine get shot some, and some get shot more than others because they shoot so well! Most of my old Ballard and Remington rifles are originals, but a few have been restored as they were so bad when I found them, and couldn't be safely fired.
This one is my original #4 Perfection in .32-40. It usually is my go to gun for deer season:

https://i.imgur.com/QyCl8Fal.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uHENcu8l.jpg


These two are my original Ballard #3 on the left, and #5 Pacific on the right. The #3 has a full length Stevens scope, and was rebored at Stevens to .25 Stevens RF. The Pacific is in .40-85 Ballard Everlasting:

https://i.imgur.com/Ryf4vP9l.jpg

[blackbahart]

Nice rifles

[marlinman93]

Nice rifles

Thanks!

This one is my #6 1/2 Rigby Ballard in .40-63 Ballard Everlasting:

https://i.imgur.com/1WiOqvwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JxGjVwWl.jpg

Schoyen Ballard in .32-40:

https://i.imgur.com/ukUHvJjl.jpg

Pope Ballard 3 barrel takedown set:

https://i.imgur.com/KqKNqScl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fvuQ856l.jpg

Probably enough for now.

[Chill Wills]

Thanks. Very nice for sure.
When I asked about any others?, I was talking about Creedmoors, However, I am ALWAYS glad to see good collections. In fact I wish more pictures would be included with posts!

Thanks for sharing!

[marlinman93]

Thanks. Very nice for sure.
When I asked about any others?, I was talking about Creedmoors, However, I am ALWAYS glad to see good collections. In fact I wish more pictures would be included with posts!

Thanks for sharing!

Sorry, misunderstood. I don't have but the one Ballard Creedmoor #7. I have another Rolling Block with 34" barrel, single set trigger, and in .44-77Rem-Sharps Bottleneck, but it's an extra heavy barrel, not a lightweight 1/2 octagon like the Creedmoor was.

[blackbahart]

that rigby ballard is kinda really awsome !and the others are great TOOOO

[ericp]

Marlinman,
I love seeing the neat old rifles you turn up! You really have an outstanding collection of single shots. Very high on my bucket list is a 44 1/2 in 32-40 as a mentor of mine had one and I think its about the classiest rig going.

Eric

[marlinman93]

Marlinman,
I love seeing the neat old rifles you turn up! You really have an outstanding collection of single shots. Very high on my bucket list is a 44 1/2 in 32-40 as a mentor of mine had one and I think its about the classiest rig going.

Eric

Thanks! Appreciate the comment.

The Stevens 44 1/2 is a very nice gun in .32-40. I don't seem to see them often in that caliber, as most I see are in Stevens calibers more than more popular .32-40 and .38-55 calibers. I've owned some Stevens single shot rifles over the decades, and used to have quite few before I narrowed down my collecting. I sold my engraved Walnut Hill 49 in .22LR, and my 52 in .25-21 about 18 months ago. The last of my Stevens rifles I still had.

[marlinman93]

Had a setback on my Rolling Block project! Got a call this morning telling me the receiver is cracked in the thread area. I called a friend to ask if he had a spare receiver, and he told me he'd sell me back the one I sold him last year! So now I'm getting my parts back from Al Springer, and hopefully will be able to assemble one good action from the new action I'm getting, plus parts from the old action.
I'll have to do all the hours of shaping the top tang down to civilian narrower/thinner style, and also fit my pistol grip lower tang too. Plus get a rotary extractor, as my cracked action was a bar sliding extractor.
Not looking forward to the work, and more expense, but not much choice either.

[marlinman93]

The action on the right in this image is the one I'll work over to use now.

https://i.imgur.com/utwhWdRl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zrPSkMyl.jpg

It was a large shank .43 Mauser action previously. My friend milled the sides to clean it up, and recut the top to octagon like a civilian action.

[blindeye]

Wouldn't you also need a rotary extractor breech block; to pair with the new frame and rotary extractor? Or perhaps you already have one and I missed that part.

[marlinman93]

Wouldn't you also need a rotary extractor breech block; to pair with the new frame and rotary extractor? Or perhaps you already have one and I missed that part.

Yes, all the internal parts came with this receiver. But the rotary extractor is missing, so I'll need to get a black powder rotary. I have a smokeless rotary extractor with the retaining screw slot, but they're too large for a BP breech block and receiver.

[marlinman93]

Received my cracked action back from Al yesterday. I'm not sure how I missed this crack, as it's pretty obvious in the thread shank!

https://i.imgur.com/BNKHEu6l.jpg

But not so obvious at all on the bottom side. So I'll use that excuse for not catching it.

https://i.imgur.com/rkGSIBCl.jpg

The crack goes from the ramrod stop hole back. It looks straight through, and yet from the bottom the crack took careful searching with a good light and magnifier to locate it on the right edge of the receiver. So it's not straight down, but down at about a 45 degree angle! It's less straight on the bottom side also, so not sure if it was a metal defect, or caused by that hole they used on early military actions to attach the ramrod stop. Later actions used a flat spring to retain the ramrod, so guessing they figured out this was a weak spot and the hole made them prone to breaking?
I'll sort through parts for both actions and begin contouring the hammer and block spurs again to make them like the sporting models. Hopefully I can send it back soon to give this a 2nd go at finishing it!

[OlDeuce]

Your moving right along on your project !!! Fun Stuff!!! Ol Deuce

[marlinman93]

Your moving right along on your project !!! Fun Stuff!!! Ol Deuce

Actually I'm moving in the wrong direction! Since this sets me back a few days, I'm having tto do some catching up now to get back where I was!

[OlDeuce]

Actually I'm moving in the wrong direction! Since this sets me back a few days, I'm having tto do some catching up now to get back where I was!

Setbacks are for gathering more thoughts ...:Bright idea:.... For me it's more momentum moving to the end of the project :2_high5:

Ol Deuce:bigsmyl2:

[marlinman93]

Got the new (old) hammer and breechblock spurs reshaped yesterday. An awful lot of extra metal on both spurs to remove and get them down to sporting rifle weight and shape! Also got the top tang reduced in width to fit the inletting on my wood. Now I need to heat and bend the top tang down as the angle is wrong and the end is probably 1/4" higher than the previous receiver was. It's so far off I could never begin to draw it down with the tang screw. It fits well at the receiver end, so heating it there should allow me to gently bring the tail end down enough to align with the stock.
Taking the extractor and breechblock to my welder to get both welded up. Extractor needs some weld added to rework to the .40-65 rim. Breechblock face needs the firing pin hole welded and re-drilled to the smaller modern smokeless firing pin diameter.
Hopefully I can get it all done soon and return it for the case color and bluing.

[Green Frog]

Vall, you can think of that cracked receiver as an opportunity! Now you have something to practice your engraving on without worrying about messing up a “good” receiver. Try different layouts on opposite sides then if you don’t like what you did there’s enough steel to polish down and engrave a different pattern at least once or twice. Think of it as a win! :2_high5:

You Phriendly ‘Phibian

[marlinman93]

Vall, you can think of that cracked receiver as an opportunity! Now you have something to practice your engraving on without worrying about messing up a “good” receiver. Try different layouts on opposite sides then if you don’t like what you did there’s enough steel to polish down and engrave a different pattern at least once or twice. Think of it as a win! :2_high5:

You Phriendly ‘Phibian

That's a great idea Charlie! The cracked receiver is a better place for me to practice engraving than a good one! At least it wont be a total loss if I play with it that way! Thanks my friend!

[ulav8r]

One of the instructors at CST made up trap guns on Martini actions. He cut a slot through the bottom of the receiver and drilled and tapped the receiver for a cross bolt. The barrels were cut to be easily hand threaded into the receiver. Tightening the cross bolt would lock the barrel firmly into place, while allowing easy removal for cleaning. You could probably do that with this cracked receiver.

[marlinman93]

One of the instructors at CST made up trap guns on Martini actions. He cut a slot through the bottom of the receiver and drilled and tapped the receiver for a cross bolt. The barrels were cut to be easily hand threaded into the receiver. Tightening the cross bolt would lock the barrel firmly into place, while allowing easy removal for cleaning. You could probably do that with this cracked receiver.

I actually have a Forged Ballard here that someone did this same thing to many decades ago. It's similar to what greener did with large frame takedown Martinis.

[marlinman93]

Got out today and found time to get the top tang heated and bent down to match my sporter stock set. Then spent more time removing a bit more metal off the thickness up near the receiver.
https://i.imgur.com/tdhhIGrl.jpg

I've got the hammer and breechblock rough shaped and somewhat polished. I'll need to do the final polish and then use my checkering file to get the spurs checkered again. A lot of extra metal on these two spurs, so they're still a bit heavier than sporter, but polishing will remove the rest.
https://i.imgur.com/dHAS45dl.jpg

With the thinning of the receiver sides the pins stuck through a bit too far, so I took about .090" off the excess length.
https://i.imgur.com/PaFkuGMl.jpg

While I was at it, I went ahead and fitted the tang sight base to ensure it was dead vertical with the tangs. Then D&T the holes to mount it. Took a little more metal off the right side to get the tang sight vertical.
https://i.imgur.com/LiktIdGl.jpg

A few hours of polishing and it will be ready to send back to Al springer for color case work.

[marlinman93]

Seeing Ol Deuce's winter Rolling Block project revived, I figured I'd revive mine too. It's been almost 2 years since I started this simple project, and it's taken some turns, and steps backwards.
The last receiver shown above in reshaped octagon top didn't work out. I decided it might be too thin for a larger caliber, so I set it aside for another project in the future. Maybe a .32-20 on that #1 receiver, as that would be fun. I got a great deal on another action from a friend for $80, so I once again reshaped and thinned the upper tang on it, and fit the pistol grip trigger plate to this last action. This one is an old round top military action, and I'll leave it round top for strength.
I sent the action off to Al Springer for barrel fitting, and final polish. He'll rust blue the barrel, and color case the action parts. The 34" #3.5 weight GM barrel is now fitted and chambered in .40-50SS, instead of the original .40-65 Win. choice. I love the mild recoil of the .40-50, and it works better with smokeless powders also.
Al has everything polished and the barrel rust blued. Might have the receiver color cased also, but haven't heard yet? It isn't far from returning though, so once it's back I'll mount the forearm, and do the final assembly. Then post some pictures, and after test firing, some accuracy reports.

[marlinman93]

Just got word that my Rolling Block is headed home! Al has it finished, and it's in transit, so should be here in a couple days! Once it arrives I need to D&T for the forearm screw, and do some final fitting of the buttstock, and mount sights.
Will post some pictures when it arrives, and after assembly is done.

[marlinman93]

I feel like a kid on a trip asking, "Are we there yet"?
Well the answer is YES! The postman delivered a nice big shipping crate a few minutes ago, and I couldn't get it open fast enough! Al Springer at Snowy Mountain Blue really outdid himself! (Is that really possible?) His colors on the action are as good as it gets, and spot on for a Remington!

https://i.imgur.com/zrHCEszl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x43VptPl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7nGoGPkl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/848kS0bl.jpg

I let Al do the polishing on the barrel since it wasn't fitted when I sent it to him. He always does a little extra touch up work anyway, and this barrel is perfection! As is his usual great rust bluing! The work done by Pat at C Sharps to fit and chamber is equally great!

https://i.imgur.com/Ce4PZGql.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aNidk4Sl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x7wFzaFl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rIO8sHSl.jpg

Wood is some of the leftovers from Remington's late 1990's run. This is their high grade custom shop wood.

https://i.imgur.com/7OlIvW4l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NDOhKLrl.jpg

Barrel is a 34" #3.5 weight Green Mountain .40 caliber. It is chambered in the old .40-50 Sharps Straight.
Still need to mount up the wood I fitted prior to sending it to Al Springer, but I'll get that taken care of this weekend.

[marlinman93]

Slipped the stocks on just to get a picture.

https://i.imgur.com/mi8djdnl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Ck121VYl.jpg

[Shawlerbrook]

That is so coooooool !!

[marlinman93]

That is so coooooool !!

Thanks! Another with the sights installed.

https://i.imgur.com/Q50MuUCl.jpg

[Reverend Al]

That sure is one VERY nice rifle Val! I have such huge envy right now ...

:holysheep

[marlinman93]

Thanks Al! Next to my straight grip Rolling Blocks it's hard to compare the differences. I sure love the graceful curved pistol grip that Remington used on their pistol grip lower tangs.

[Wolfer]

I can only hope and dream that mine will end up looking that good. It’s always good to have a goal to shoot for.
Woody

[AnthonyB]

That is a beautiful rifle, but old fashioned and not tacticool at all. I’ll offer a NIB Savage Axis with plastic stock that will never swell if it gets wet in trade if you want something more modern. ;)
Tony

[marlinman93]

That is a beautiful rifle, but old fashioned and not tacticool at all. I’ll offer a NIB Savage Axis with plastic stock that will never swell if it gets wet in trade if you want something more modern. ;)
Tony

What a generous offer! But since I have a plastic stocked Gamo air rifle and an AR15 I've filled my two slots in the safe allotted to plastic stocked guns. No room left, as all other slots are designated blued steel and walnut. :)