Iron/Steel Mold Care

[54bore]

I have a new 2 Cavity Iron mold coming from Accurate Molds, what do you guys use when you store an Iron/Steel mold to keep it in tip top shape?

[Drew P]

I'd also like to know. I've been hosing mine down with wd40, but I've been wondering if some of those treated card stock things or paper like guns ship in would be more elegant

[54bore]

I Figured this was the appropriate place to ask, I would think any decent oil would do? I only have one other steel mold, it is an RCBS, i sprayed it good with a New version of Rem oil (Stuff in a little pump bottle) before putting it away the last time i used it, i have checked it several times and no signs of rust, I guess i just answered my own question! LOL, But stil Would like to know what other folks use, their methods of storing Steel/Iron molds to protect them?

[hermans]

I just use an air tight container and put the molds in with a bag of silica crystals, which I "activate" from time to time in the microwave oven.

[toallmy]

I wipe them down with some oil and the cavity gets a q-tip of oil in it . Whatever oil is close by 2 cycle , gun oil , or a good penetrating spray oil . After oiling I wrap a paper towel around the mold to keep the dust off . I keep them in the house on a shelf not in the garage so humidity is not a problem .

[TexasGrunt]

Do yourself a huge favor and don't use WD-40. That stuff will dry to a varnish. It has ONE use. WATER DISPLACEMENT, it's a lousy lube, it's a lousy rust preventative since it dries to a varnish.

Go to Walmart and get a Flambeau tackle organizer with the Zerust dividers. Or order some Zerust tabs from Amazon and use a sealable container.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ULSW13A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For the Zerust tabs at Amazon.

I constantly fight rust living here in N. Texas. I use the above. For stuff that doesn't fit in a box or is bolted to the bench I use Boeshield. It's used on bicycle chains. It's a dry lube and rust preventer. Found on eBay, Amazon, and better bicycle shops everywhere.

[54bore]

I wipe them down with some oil and the cavity gets a q-tip of oil in it . Whatever oil is close by 2 cycle , gun oil , or a good penetrating spray oil . After oiling I wrap a paper towel around the mold to keep the dust off . I keep them in the house on a shelf not in the garage so humidity is not a problem .

This is pretty much exactly the way i have my RCBS mold now. My molds stay inside my house as well, after i sprayed the mold down i wrapped a Paper towel around it and put it in my mold box (Just a Cardboard box with a top on it) so far so good.

[Ickisrulz]

I put a heavy coat of Eezox on mine and then store them in an airtight container with desiccant. They have been in a non-temperature controlled building for years without issue.

[54bore]

I put a heavy coat of Eezox on mine and then store them in an airtight container with desiccant. They have been in a non-temperature controlled building for years without issue.

I have read/heard about Eezox, where do you get it at?

[Ickisrulz]

I have read/heard about Eezox, where do you get it at?

Amazon has it.

[lightman]

I spray mine with whatever I use on my guns, wrap them in a shop rag and store in a 50 caliber ammo can. I use brake cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean them before use.

[georgerkahn]

I have quite a small collection of ferrous metal moulds, and store them in Plano plastic boxes. These are PLANO MOLDING 2-3730-05 Compartment Box, 4 to 15 Compartmnt, Clear. I make certain they are dry, and put in box; a large sheet of vapor-paper is placed atop moulds, under lids. I have labels on end of each compartment, too, to readily get which mould I wish to use. (Knock wood!) I've never had a problem with rust, and these ARE stored in an unheated, damp basement.188808
Best!
gei

[Randy Bohannon]

While the mold is still warm I melt beeswax all over the mold inside and out, excess runs off leaving a thin layer of wax.I then store them in a plastic container.I don't like oil, it migrates and leaves vulnerable areas, the wax will get into everything and not migrate when cool.

[country gent]

It will depend some to on how long they are going to set unused and unattended. For a few weeks a light oil or grease coat is good. Some leave bullets in the cavity with the theory capillary action will hold oil there. For long term storage of a few months to years a more tenacious or longer lasting coating is needed. Cosmoline is very good and can be melted and reused. If you can find it from a shop or factory they usually throw it out. Another is a mix of paraffin or beeswax and oil or light grease. I used this often. I apply while the mould is hot from casting. I made mine in 3/8" round sticks. Just touch it to coat an area and work around it. when done the blocks and sprue plate are sealed together tight and this coating dosnt run off. seal the coated blocks in a ziplock bag and work as much air out as possible. seal and store. A mould treated like this should never rust.

[toallmy]

As mentioned above W-D 40 is not a good penetrating oil .

[Alstep]

I spray 'em down with CorrosionX, then place them in a zip lock bag. Never had a problem.

[runfiverun]

I put them in one of the drawers.

[MT Gianni]

I have had one mold surface rust after boiling it twice to clean it up. In the climate of SW Montana if I don't leave it on the lawn it won't rust.

[cuzinbruce]

I wrap the mold and handles in VPI paper, then a plastic grocery bag. Then just store in drawer or box. The VPI paper came from Brownells IIRC, and there is no mess to clean off when I go to use the mold again. If they don't have handles, use the VPI paper and put them in the orange Lyman boxes.

[Chill Wills]

I mostly have iron molds. I have never put anything on them. Never had rust. Clearly the local climate makes all the difference.
Rocky mountain air is very dry most of the time. Rarely does the humidity exceed 30% past 9am.

I guess we never knew how lucky/easy it is not to have to clean the gook off before casting good bullets.

[longbow]

I'm an oil advocate for ALL moulds since even brass and aluminum moulds have steel sprue plates and alignment pins.

I generally use a mix of WD40 as a thinner and a light lubricating oil. After making sure the whole mould is well covered I put boolits back in the cavities so capillary action hold the the oil between boolit and cavity.

I've never had a mould rust doing this and generally for clean up before casting the mould is simply wiped down with a rag or paper towel, sprue plate lube wiped on under sprue plate and on alignment pins then pre-heat until the sprue plate lube just starts to smoke.

It works for me and no rust.

Longbow

[R. Dupraz]

exact same as "lightman"

Only I spray with WD-40 first. Never had a problem with it when molds at stored in good air tight 50 cal ammo cans with good seals. Molds are ready to go after a good tooth brush scrub with brake cleaner

[Shepherd2]

I started casting 50 years ago. When I bought a new mould it came well wrapped in rust inhibiting paper in a cardboard box. When I finished using it I rewrapped it and put it back in the box. I've never found it necessary to spray or coat the mould for storage. When I started to accumulate used moulds I began purchasing the vapor paper from Brownell's and plastic boxes to put the moulds in. Many years ago I started putting the boxed moulds in large GI ammo or storage containers with an airtight rubber seal. I have yet to find rust on any of my iron moulds. The only time I have replaced the vapor paper is when it gets ripped for use.

I wrap my aluminum moulds in vapor paper too since the have steel sprue plates, screw etc. I store them in an ammo can also.

I cringe when I read about spraying moulds with preservatives or coating them with whatever. I remember reading on Castboolits years ago about one fellow who stored his moulds in jars of oil. All that stuff has to be cleaned off before you can cast a boolit. Ohio has never been know for a dry climate and my system has served me well for 50 years. My moulds are ready to go when I take them out of their box. No cleaning or scubbing. Just heat them up and cast boolits.

[kokomokid]

I use VCI paper to wrap moulds and store in a sealed ammo storage. Careful with the paper as I have read of its emissions attacking scope lenses.

[gwpercle]

I give mine a coat of Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. The stuff does not contaminate , does not need to be removed and acts as a mould release . Boolits cast in cavities treated with it want to jump out of the mould. The stuff prevents rust, my moulds stay in an old wood framed , uninsulated , non heated or cooled outbuilding in the Louisiana heat , humidity and drenching rains we have ( got 30 inches in 24 hours one day last August)...not one mould treated with it has rusted.
I give the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube a five star rating.
Gary

[GreenRiverBoy]

Hi George,
Are your boxes large enough to store the molds with the handles attached?

[Petrol & Powder]

For short term storage I apply a little Kroil.
For long term storage I use RIG.

Both of those require degreasing before the mold is used but it's worth the extra work to me.

Here in the mid-Atlantic states you can watch ferrous metal rust. RIG has never let me down. It may be a bit old school but I've had some bad experiences with rust and don't wish to risk it.

By the way, I apply the oil or grease while the molds are still warm so there's no possibility of trapping water under the grease.

[TexasGrunt]

For short term storage I apply a little Kroil.
For long term storage I use RIG.

Both of those require degreasing before the mold is used but it's worth the extra work to me.

Here in the mid-Atlantic states you can watch ferrous metal rust. RIG has never let me down. It may be a bit old school but I've had some bad experiences with rust and don't wish to risk it.

By the way, I apply the oil or grease while the molds are still warm so there's no possibility of trapping water under the grease.

I've found you don't have to remove the Kroil. I wipe off the excess and start casting. The first few casts will have wrinkles then you're good to go.

[barnabus]

i spay mine with kroil while still warm and then place in a zip sandwich baggie and put back in the RCBS box.never rust

[Ron in PA]

189722 I spray ' em with Clenzoil or Ballistol and store in ammo cans.

[Petrol & Powder]

When did Clenzoil start coming in a white bottle ?

I need to get out more :p !

[Ron in PA]

I got the oil years ago from a good friend. The old price on the oil is $ 2.35 ??

[Petrol & Powder]

I got the oil years ago from a good friend. The old price on the oil is $ 2.35 ??

All of my Clenzoil bottles are black and have higher prices on them :D.
Clenzoil is good stuff and replaced "Breakfree CLP" on my shelf years ago.

[rrob692326]

Vci bags work for me here in the tropics, Where I live near the volcano, we have 100 % humidity with corrosive volcanic air, and this is about the only way to stop corrosion.

[54bore]

Vci bags work for me here in the tropics, Where I live near the volcano, we have 100 % humidity with corrosive volcanic air, and this is about the only way to stop corrosion.

Never heard of Vci bags? I will have to look them up

[brassrat]

I don't put anything, at all, on my two steel molds in storage or casting. Never had a problem, only a big Lee that wanted some lube on moving parts. This is new to me thou, compared to others

[rrob692326]

http://www.polygunbag.com/Images/polytitleandsupplies.gif hers is a link that makes them A smart way to use them is buy the big 50 bmg size and cut off strips of the impregnated plastic and toss them in heavy mylar zip bags used for long term food storage. These bags are non permable and will keep anything in them rust free and ready to use for 5 years. you should be able to get enough strips of vci plastic to preserve well over 100 items with the 50 bmg bags Of course they have regular gun bags too The mylar bags can be found on e bay I like to cut strips of vci plastic and put them in my reloading die boxes and things I know are prone to corrosion. Best of luck.

[TexasGrunt]

https://smile.amazon.com/Daubert-Cromwell-40PCF12X200-Ferro-Pak-Polyethylene/dp/B00C7XR12I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491483456&sr=8-2&keywords=vci+paper

I bought this roll of VCI paper. For seldom used firearms I wrap them in it. Strips of it also are working quite well in keeping my stuff from rusting here in Texas.