? about OAL of cartridge

[Possum]

Not sure where to ask this question, but here goes:

I'm at the range tonight trying some new loads with my Glock 27. This is the first time I have loaded for it. I am using 4.8gr of #5. The bullet is a truncated cone with a bevel base. The first three fire perfectly. I am checking the brass after every fire and I notice the slide has not completely closed on the fourth round. I take that round out and notice there is a diagonal "groove"cut where the bullet meets the brass that makes me think it is being seated into the rifling.

I single load another round into the chamber and let the slide go. It again does not shut all the way and this time the slide won't budge. The slide can't be shut or opened. I am thinking now that the bullet is seated into the rifling and has jammed the slide. These are cast bullets that I did not cast and seem on the hard side. They came in a deal and were "store bought". I did not want to force anything so it sits as is until the local gunsmith gets in tomorrow. Anyone ever have something like this happen?

**Update** Read some on this issue. My dies may not be sizing the brass correctly and the round got stuck in the chamber when the slide chambered the round with force. That would make perfect sense, wouldn't it. I am going to leave this post to see if anyone else has ever had this problem and what they did to correct it.

[454PB]

I know nothing about Glocks, but have owned a lot of 1911's, their clones, and a Ruger P-90. I'm betting the boolit is biting the rifling. All my guns will extract a loaded round in the condition you describe, but it takes a forceful yank on the slide. The worst that has happened to me while doing this is a damaged casing. It should be done in an absolutely safe environment, while carefully controled if something bad happens.

The gunsmiths I know don't appreciate anyone bringing in a gun with a loaded round in the chamber. Once the gun is cleared, you can do some testing with dummy rounds to find out what is causing the problem.

[Possum]

Thanks for the input. It was an indoor range with an onsite gunsmith. They had no problem leaving it in a locked room with it in a separate case with plenty of notes left on the case. I agree with you. Most do not like that kind of thing.

I think it is a wrongly sized casing causing the problem. If it was just the lead, the pressure I put on the slide would have caused it to come free most likely.

[Possum]

Got it back today at lunch. It was the brass right below the crimp. I'll have to check my reloading process again.

[leftiye]

Stick it (your cartridges) back into a sizing die (not all the way, only until you get resistance), and give it a little push. That will flatten out the "blouse" that forms behind your crimp sometimes. Alternately, get a lee factory crimping die maybe.

I've never had this problem. I just put in a very light crimp. The trick is to use a bullet that will headspace on the rifling when the mouth of the case is crimped BEHIND and AGAINST the front wall of a crimping or lube groove. Remember that on an auto pistol crimping is only to prevent boolits being pushed back inside the cases further, and this does it as well as it can be done.

[Possum]

Thanks, I just read about how NOT to overcrimp. That turned out to be the problem. I believe I have overcrimped the rounds. I will try your suggestion and I am betting the problem will be resolved. I did not load but a few (I am learning a thing or two:-D) to try so it won't be bad if I did pull the bullets and start over.

Thanks for the replies.

[kawalekm]

I noticed a similar loading problem with .45's into my 1911. The cartridges would load, but the slide would stop about 1/8 inch befor lock-up. The problem turned out to be that with lubed cast bullets the outside diameter of the case was about 3 thousands greater than factory ammunition.

I solved the problem by purchasing a Lyman taper crimp die and used it to reduce the casemouth diameter by about 3 thousands. Now I get perfect feeding.
Michael