My new action wrench for rolling blocks.

[labradigger1]

I had some 1-1/2" square yellow brass stock laying around and decided to get a little lathe time in this morning.

Blocks are 7" long and I cut the threads for the handle 7/8"-14 tpi. The handle is 1-1/8 smooth rod, threads were single pointed. I marred the knurling up a bit with a pipe wrench while tightening the handle down into the brass block but that's ok, it's for me.

I need to buy some grade 8, 1/2" bolts for the blocks. I don't have any long enough. Blocked were clamped together and drilled slightly undersized then reamed to 1/2" while still clamped.
Then to the 6"x48" belt sander with 120 grit. Sanded down to remove oxidation and ugly.

Block ends were stamped with witness marks for alignment if they are ever separated. The other end was stamped RRB for Remington rolling block but should also work for other flat sided receivers. This guy is heavy! Handle is solid steel and 24" long.

I bought a RRB no.2 barreled action from the local trading paper some time back and have slowly been gathering parts. No. 2's are my favorite rollers btw.

Now awaiting a finish reamer from a member and then rechamber a no. 2 to 218 bee. This will be a low pressure cast boolit only shooter. I will tighten up the hammer and block pins then re drill the block to change from rf to cf. I also have new semi inletted wood for it. The barrel has already had a new 22 cal liner installed. I am going to attempt to color case harden the action, hammer and block with wood and bone charcoal.

Now for a question. I have concerns about the caustic bluing bath eating the red loctite that secures the liner. Anyone have any experience with this? I'm considering removing the liner and re bluing the barrel then re install the liner then chamber.

[cub45]

rust blue

[flounderman]

I would use the Mark Lee rust blue

[labradigger1]

I'll hot blue the steel when I do the gun barrel.

[John Taylor]

I have blued many barrels after installing a liner and never had one come loose. Factory loading for the 218 Bee is 40,000 which may be a little hot for the #2 action. I know you said only light hand loads but after your gone the rifle may be passed along to someone who will try factory loads. I have not found any original #2 that were loaded with any cartridge over 20,000 ( except 22LR). The action seems to be plenty strong for any black powder pistol round that will fit. I have seen some in 38-40 and they may have done some in 44-40 but these are loaded under 16,000 psi. Have seen problems with blown primers in the 22 Hornet (43,000).

[labradigger1]

I have blued many barrels after installing a liner and never had one come loose. Factory loading for the 218 Bee is 40,000 which may be a little hot for the #2 action. I know you said only light hand loads but after your gone the rifle may be passed along to someone who will try factory loads. I have not found any original #2 that were loaded with any cartridge over 20,000 ( except 22LR). The action seems to be plenty strong for any black powder pistol round that will fit. I have seen some in 38-40 and they may have done some in 44-40 but these are loaded under 16,000 psi. Have seen problems with blown primers in the 22 Hornet (43,000).


I was hoping you would chime in. Your experience speaks for itself.

I am planning to stamp the bottom of the barrel with LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY, hopefully this will alleviate any issues later on. The rifle is a 22lr now and I'm looking for a 22cf cartridge to replace it. I have a couple now in 25/20 SS and while an outstanding cartridge I'm looking for something different. I don't have many choices for 22 cf.

Any ideas the pressure of a lightly loaded 48 grain cast Bee produces?

I will take your advise into consideration.

[ulav8r]

I am planning to stamp the bottom of the barrel with LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY, hopefully this will alleviate any issues later on.

Bottom??????????? Make sure that stamp is readable after stock and scope installation. Bottom of the barrel, to me, implies that the stock would cover it. The LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY should read .22 Hornet LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY, or, preferably, .22WCF LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY.

[labradigger1]

Bottom??????????? Make sure that stamp is readable after stock and scope installation. Bottom of the barrel, to me, implies that the stock would cover it. The LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY should read .22 Hornet LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY, or, preferably, .22WCF LOW PRESSURE CAST ONLY.

No. 2 rollers are stamped under the barrel just in front of the forearm from the factory. Either way I've decided to heed John taylors warning about the bee being too hot for the action. I will rechamber to 22 wmr. That is the same pressure as the 22 lr it is now.

I am picking up a mossberg SSI-one tonight and will make it a bee instead. I'm certain that action will take it.

[colchester]

I like the wrench I was using a huge crecent with brass liners, Im gonna make one like yours thanks for the motivation