Adding a rim to a case

[abunaitoo]

What are some f the ways to add a rim to a case????
I was thinking of making up some 43 Mauser out of 7mm Mag.
I was thinking of making a die to swage a piece of copper tubing to form the rim.

[country gent]

Since you wont need the extractor groove the rim might be able to be swaged or crimped into it to provide a mechanical lock. would require a die with a sliding crimp collar at the base similar to the lee collet dies. Solder would soften case heads from the heat and the low surface area would limit its strength same with lock tites or glues. Only other way that comes to mind is to turn existing rim off cut a thin shallow groove to swage new ring into. A domed ring set over end and then formed flat would seat and lock into the above groove making a solid mechanical lock also.

[skeettx]

Snap rings
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haobase-225Pcs-Internal-external-Lock-Snap-Retaining-ring-Circlips-holes-Sh-/201806062376?hash=item2efc942328:g:96YAAOSwNnRYlTa M

[EDG]

Make your rim ring washer with a hole to fit tight in the extractor groove. Then use a large conical punch and die to stretch the hole open larger than the rim. This will turn your rim ring washer into something resembling a funnel.

Place the rim ring over the case rim. Drop a sleeve over the case and mash the rim ring washer flat so that when it gets pressed flat the ID of the washer is forced into the extractor groove locking it in place.

Then machine the rim faces to thickness and the OD to the correct diameter.

Be very careful sizing these cases. Push the sized cases (neck sizing is best) out of the die with a push rod and arbor press.

[upnorthwis]

Unless all you've got is "Mag" brass and lots of time on your hands, that sounds like way too much work. I've done it with both "Mag" brass and .45-90. The .45-90 is almost as easy as making 8mm Mauser out of .30-06. Will need a lathe either way.

[abunaitoo]

All good suggestions.

[17nut]

Read this:

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/44-06_rimmed_douglas.html

[Gewehr-Guy]

Abunaitoo, .45-90 would be much easier than mag cases. I have made 200 cases for my .43 Mauser,turn down rim dia. and cut the rebated area for the ejector clearance. When I fire form the first time I wrap the base with two wraps of 3/4 masking tape, that brings the dia. to .514 and centers the cartridge nicely in the chamber. After the first shot remove the tape and 2nd shot will form to the chamber nicely. Starline currently has 45-90 in stock for $234.50 for 250 cases.

[Alan in Vermont]

Somewhere in my stacks of old reference publications there is an illustrated article showing how to do this very thing. I think Handloader but maybe also one of the NRA reloading guides.

IIRC, the author used a BFH press with the appropriately machined sleeves to upset the new rim into the existing extractor grooves, after which the new rim was cleaned up by turning off whatever was excess.

Knowing I have seen that is NOT the same thing as remembering where I saw it. :(

[ulav8r]

Somewhere in my stacks of old reference publications there is an illustrated article showing how to do this very thing. I think Handloader but maybe also one of the NRA reloading guides.

IIRC, the author used a BFH press with the appropriately machined sleeves to upset the new rim into the existing extractor grooves, after which the new rim was cleaned up by turning off whatever was excess.

Knowing I have seen that is NOT the same thing as remembering where I saw it. :(

See post #7.

[abunaitoo]

That's where i got the idea from.
Seems like lots of work, but once the die is made, 7mm Mag/300 Mag brass is easier to get than 45-90.
Only change I'm thinking is using copper tube in place of brass.
Softer and easier to form.



Read this:

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/44-06_rimmed_douglas.html

[country gent]

While the copper is easier to form and work will it hold up as well to extraction and pressures. It will be subjected to a lot of push pull forces not only when firing but when loading also. Be a shame to go thru the work to bend spring the rims to where they don't work in just a few loadings. I would use brass as close to cartridge brass as I can get. The dies and press probably wont know the difference.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I haven't done this, but I saw an "American Rifleman" or "Guns and Ammo" article long ago about it. This was for a double rifle, which has a straight-line extractor occupying over 90 degrees of rim, which is slightly easier on the rim than most. I think you need a lathe to do this well. An engineer's bench press would be handy, but simple home-made dies in a large vice would probably do.

The rim was turned down to the bottom of the groove, with a very slight reverse taper. I don't remember whether metal was removed from the slanting front of the groove, but a little would be permissible for some rifles and some pressures. A very slight taper, forward smaller, was left at the bottom of that cut. Then a tight fitting brass collar was slipped on, and reduced in a pair of simple dies, conical at the front and flat on the case head, to clamp the collar firmly on. Finally you turn it to the right diameter and thickness.

Threading is also a possibility, and in this case the rim could be of steel, both durable enough to last well if the rest of the case does, and strong enough to impart a little strength around the primer pocket. eBay from China can supply inexpensive fine metric and UNEF or UNS taps and dies which you can hardly find anywhere else, and in the UK we have the ME (Model Engineering) series of all the thirty-seconds at 40tpi.

It would surely pay someone to have an automatic screw-machine firm turn out thousands of stainless steel threaded rims. For all the common Mauser- and Springfield-based cases could be done with the same size.

[Alan in Vermont]

Read this:

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/44-06_rimmed_douglas.html

17, That's not the article I saw. However, apparently some things are writ in the stars.

Right after I wrote about it I got to the last small stack of Handloader(I have been a couple months rereading a big stack of them). I dragged them out of the bookcase, grabbed the one on top of that stack, opened it and ,,, VOILA!! Issue 59, page 12, Written by Maj. George Nonte. Pretty decent pics of the process. If I can find a way to scan it into a PDF I will make it available. It's dated January-February 1976 so I'm not real worried about getting bagged for Copyright fraud.

[William Yanda]

"It's dated January-February 1976"
That and the fact that Maj. Nonte now resides on that big range in the sky.

[country gent]

NEF threads would be a good way to go. An adjustable die or undersized tap to make an interference fit on the threads should hold well. Leave rims on the thick side and larger dia. Thread case heads. Install rims with a little green locktite and let cure. then turn belts off and cut rims to thickness and dia. By leaving rims over sized you can use pliers or a special made spanner wrench to install then remove and burrs dings or bends when you machine the rims to final size.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

"It's dated January-February 1976"
That and the fact that Maj. Nonte now resides on that big range in the sky.

Well up to a point he does. But he lingers on while the magazine is available on www.bookfinder.com (http://www.bookfinder.com) for $5